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stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

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7 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

Is your bonnet switch working. Some cars require bonnet to be open and closed to clear "low engine oil" warning. If bonnet switch is broken, car thinks that bonnet haven't been opened, and obviously without opening bonnet, oil can't be topped. Not sure if it's the case with BMW, but VW definitely have this thing.

So might be worth checking, especially since fair few E39 owners disconnect bonnet switch, to stop alarm getting triggered at random times.

Interesting, wasn't aware of that. Not the issue here as the warning is gone next time I start the car even when I haven't been under the bonnet since it appeared, and doesn't always appear after every trip, just becoming more common this last week.

 

 

Not the answer in this case, but I have learned something new today, thanks Ray :)

Edited by Pzero

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2 hours ago, liam-2001 said:

First time poster, hello everyone!

 

Just completed the Cruise + MFSW retrofit (thank you to the guide PDF on the forum!) to the wiring loom and waiting on the new steering wheel which I'm going to collect next week. After the job was done, the DSC light now stays on! :cry: Will that be a steering wheel angle sensor reset? Or because I've still got my old wheel in even with the new cable set fitted?

 

Welcome to the forums :) 

Probably best to ask this as a new topic in this section; this is fairly lost in this thread, but hopefully someone who knows the electrics well will be able to answer ( @Clavurion ) maybe? 

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On 20/06/2021 at 16:54, d_a_n1979 said:

 

 

partsbin.jpg

 

 

 

Everything (bar the prop bearing & handbrake shoes (not needed); fitted ;)

 

It's all in my project :mrgreen:

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10 hours ago, Johan said:

 

That looks like a part list for the seats. Could be the picking list before going into the upholstery shop at the factory.

 

Faurecia Autositze used to be a company in Bad Abbach.

Thought so, couldn’t seem to see the mystical “build sheet” anywhere though.

 

might be under the sound deadening, but the stuff is so crispy, I don’t want to try to lift it, otherwise I’ve no idea!

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Also, I could hear a clicking sound when driving with the windows down today… I heard the same noise a few weeks ago as well but then it disappeared.

 

doesn’t seem to change if I press the brake pedal.

 

jacked the car up, spun the wheels and nothing.

 

it’s definitely a wheel speed related click. Bit annoyed I couldn’t find it. Going to be harder to find if it only does it whilst on the ground.

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8 hours ago, liam-2001 said:

First time poster, hello everyone!

 

Just completed the Cruise + MFSW retrofit (thank you to the guide PDF on the forum!) to the wiring loom and waiting on the new steering wheel which I'm going to collect next week. After the job was done, the DSC light now stays on! :cry: Will that be a steering wheel angle sensor reset? Or because I've still got my old wheel in even with the new cable set fitted?

I think each new/replaced steering wheel slip ring need to be calibrated to the car. So most likely mfsw+ cruise control requested different slip ring, which now need to be coded in/calibrated. Never needed to do it myself, just remember reading about sensor replacement and need for calibration to get lights off 

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3 minutes ago, AdamB said:

Also, I could hear a clicking sound when driving with the windows down today… I heard the same noise a few weeks ago as well but then it disappeared.

 

doesn’t seem to change if I press the brake pedal.

 

jacked the car up, spun the wheels and nothing.

 

it’s definitely a wheel speed related click. Bit annoyed I couldn’t find it. Going to be harder to find if it only does it whilst on the ground.

Check for any bolts/nails in tyres, they might not be through tyre and causing air leak, but still can be stuck in tyre causing noise. Another thing is simple stone chips stuck in tyre thread, sometimes can make hell of annoying noise.

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10 hours ago, AdamB said:

Thought so, couldn’t seem to see the mystical “build sheet” anywhere though.

 

might be under the sound deadening, but the stuff is so crispy, I don’t want to try to lift it, otherwise I’ve no idea!

On my car the build sheet was under the passenger seat between one of the springs and foam.

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15 hours ago, AdamB said:

Also, I could hear a clicking sound when driving with the windows down today… I heard the same noise a few weeks ago as well but then it disappeared.

 

doesn’t seem to change if I press the brake pedal.

 

jacked the car up, spun the wheels and nothing.

 

it’s definitely a wheel speed related click. Bit annoyed I couldn’t find it. Going to be harder to find if it only does it whilst on the ground.

Seems like I’ve found the cause and temporarily fixed it :D

 

Jacked up the driver side again and spun both front and rear wheels… no nails/screws etc, although my o/s/rear has a slow leak, as it was a touch flat. Looks like it’s had a repair plug at some point. (Not bothered as I’m just trying to get a few more miles out of them before I fit some new rears before the winter)

 

I remember yesterday when I did this that the front wheel sounded like the disc was rubbing slightly - didn’t think this was it as I was sure it was more of a clicking type noise.  
 

Anyways, I checked this again and sure enough there was a catching/scraping noise as I spun the wheel. Took the wheel off and spun the disc and the scraping was still there. I noticed the dust shield looked a bit wonky so bent this a bit an the scraping changed!

 

I spent about 20 mins tweaking the dust shield until the scraping stopped.

I noticed one of the mounting points at the top has rusted through, and most likely this got bent out of shape when I had my new discs/pads/callipers done a little while back.

 

I wasn’t bothered about taking calliper etc off at this point as I’ll order a new shield before I do that! (I presume I can swap this without taking off the hub flange?)

 

Quick test drive and noise has stopped for now. Not sure how long it’ll last, but at least it’s fixed for now and I know the cause.

 

Whilst I was out yesterday to grab a new coolant bleed screw from my local BMW garage, the sun was shining, so thought I’d take a pic of it amongst its younger siblings.

AC8E4670-3961-4CAA-802E-25AD5CC61421.thumb.jpeg.2e22243878beead12451d6ee55c94fd6.jpeg
 

Tried to fit new bleed screw, but it slips as I try to tighten it down, so put the old one back in for now… (I’ve a feeling the thread in the expansion tank is a bit knackered, so that’ll be another part to order - will swap it when I get a chance)

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I think the hub needs to come off to replace the alloy disc shield - typical E39 bollocks sadly. I fitted a new one whilst replacing the hub bearing on mine. I paid 22 quid delivered off ebay but be aware that rusty old discs will rub on the centre 'bell' of the shield. 

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On 21/06/2021 at 18:53, AdamB said:

Went for a 200 mile round-trip to drop some rocker covers off for refurb.

 

I passed Stonehenge on the way (it is the Solstice after all!)

75C645C1-939D-4793-A5EA-038775A81A7D.thumb.jpeg.57c89afafc9a03288580b3e5121d5bda.jpeg

 

On the trip back I got a “check coolant level” warning, so took it easy for the last bit of the journey, whilst watching temps.

 

Got home, pulled onto driveway and suddenly lots of steam!

 

I had water coming from the hose elbow connected to the water pump.

6AD59374-A065-4F39-8DE5-D018E41C2CAF.thumb.jpeg.99a88fb84dbe7a66d88b3f68ce70ff1e.jpeg

 

it had a crack across the bottom side. 
 

whilst removing, the whole elbow/connection fell to pieces:

16CF0D59-7921-44FA-936A-7D12211E33B1.thumb.jpeg.3238f45d98ec1c8f1939abc65ae76cd2.jpeg8337416B-4681-4362-B34A-68129E013F40.thumb.jpeg.4735f05c13a6edde7654ac01ed1299c7.jpeg

 

Luckily I had a brand new hose in the garage because I already had doubts about the old one… shame I hadn’t already gotten around to replacing it.

 

Unfortunately no pics of new hose. I’ve bled the system as best as I can for now, but will check it again over the next few days.

 

Hopefully no damage caused, temps never seemed to get too hot, but I had lost about 3-4litres of coolant by the time it had cooled down enough to work on, just glad the hose didn’t completely give out.

 

oh, looks like I need a new bleed screw, the existing one looks pretty old.

 

I’ll probably renew the tank when I get the timing chain etc done.

 

I've just replaced some hoses on my car as they were looking a bit past it which means that during my ownership the entire cooling system has now been replaced. Oh, and a word of advice to anyone with an m62 engine that is thinking of changing that little hose that's hidden behind the bottom pulley, yes, it is as much of a b*stard to change as it looks.... :)

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3 hours ago, Sir Anthony Regents-Park said:

I think the hub needs to come off to replace the alloy disc shield - typical E39 bollocks sadly. I fitted a new one whilst replacing the hub bearing on mine. I paid 22 quid delivered off ebay but be aware that rusty old discs will rub on the centre 'bell' of the shield. 

Well my not rusty new discs were doing that anyways :lol:

 

however, looking at real oem, it looks like I’d be able to fit without taking hub apart…

862062AF-84EA-40B4-9D15-FF194F9682A3.thumb.jpeg.26eef6b03c18aee1cd57efa60b1970c4.jpeg

Edited by AdamB

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24 minutes ago, AdamB said:

Well my not rusty new discs were doing that anyways :lol:

 

however, looking at real oem, it looks like I’d be able to fit without taking hub apart…

862062AF-84EA-40B4-9D15-FF194F9682A3.thumb.jpeg.26eef6b03c18aee1cd57efa60b1970c4.jpeg

 

Disc & hub have to come off; sorry...

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And what a pain in the arse that is. You have to slacken the damper pinch bolt and force the hub carrier downwards with a big FO bar to access to front lower 18 mm bolt. And those bolts are threadlocked and FT. 

 

This is what the shield looks like in reality. I'm not sure if you could cut that skinny part out and feed it in past the hub. I was tempted. 

 

 

WB7.JPG

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12 hours ago, AdamB said:

Damn!

 

That's why, IMO, it's not worth replacing them unless you REALLY want to...

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I’ll see if the noise comes back. I might not have a choice!

 

if/when my wheel bearing starts to rumble, that’s probably the best time to do it.

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2 hours ago, Sir Anthony Regents-Park said:

Mark the hub to the carrier and refit it in exactly the same position. There is an ABS trigger inside the hub and it must align with the plastic sensor.

Bolt pattern won't let it fit different way on hub carrier. It will always be the same as you removed it.

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Took a day off to get some bits n bobs sorted, including a trip to an engine specialist with the Cooper S block......

 

20210625_092119.thumb.jpg.47ec463ecf37aa08fb99011c22a9c754.jpg

 

Note the original engine builders' initials and build date painted on the block. Do they do that with Beemers too?

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Hopefully sorted my oil leak. Don't know why I put this job off as it all went swiftly 

Then removed towbar and refitted bumper shocks 

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10 hours ago, Gte86 said:

Hopefully sorted my oil leak. Don't know why I put this job off as it all went swiftly 

Then removed towbar and refitted bumper shocks 

20210625_175816.jpg

20210625_175829.jpg

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Much better :cool: 

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11 hours ago, Gte86 said:

Hopefully sorted my oil leak. Don't know why I put this job off as it all went swiftly 

 

Good to hear :) 

Do I recall correctly that you need to move the alternator to get good access? I admit I've been putting mine off for various reasons!

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Yes. Airbox out. Power steering tank moved. Remove idler pulley and top alternator bolt.

I just removed the Power lead to alternator and capped it off with bung to save resetting all electrics. Then lower alternator bolt and remove alternator. While it's out try to pull the adjustable bushing back the other way so it goes back on easier, oh and remove the compacted leaves from the Cooling duct.

I left the tensioner attached and just moved the whole unit forward. Lots of brake cleaner to get rid of the old oil. Grease on the new gasket and it's ready to go back together. 

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