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stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

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8 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

CTEK make very good trickle chargers. Looks like the MXS 5.0 fitted to me

 

Re the rear power socket, can come in handy for all sorts. For me, it'd be handy for when we go away camping & plug the cool box into for the journey there etc 

Yep that’s it,

 

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30 minutes ago, simufly said:

Yep that’s it,

 

Previous owner made 12v power point, USB charger socket and voltage gauge, all in one fitted behind rear arm rest, once you drop it, you have access to it. Not original parts, but comes handy for someone having low phone battery while sitting in back or anything you want to plug in, like little cooler box in summer, or just checking what state is battery in. 

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Started to feel brake vibration again, not long ago they been cleaned and greased. I know that caliper pistons have rust spots in chrome coating, so I'm guessing that might be an issue.  I'm about to order correct size repair kit for calipers, including pistons, just would like to know, if there's any special way how to bleed abs pump? I'm planning to remove calipers so most likely fluid will run out of brake system, I just don't want to get in trouble when bleeding system. Any advice what not to do or best way how to do? I have changed lot of calipers, hoses etc, but all that never requested to empty the system fully, but this time it looks like keeping system with fluid is possible only if I will block houses.

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1 hour ago, Ray112 said:

Started to feel brake vibration again, not long ago they been cleaned and greased. I know that caliper pistons have rust spots in chrome coating, so I'm guessing that might be an issue.  I'm about to order correct size repair kit for calipers, including pistons, just would like to know, if there's any special way how to bleed abs pump? I'm planning to remove calipers so most likely fluid will run out of brake system, I just don't want to get in trouble when bleeding system. Any advice what not to do or best way how to do? I have changed lot of calipers, hoses etc, but all that never requested to empty the system fully, but this time it looks like keeping system with fluid is possible only if I will block houses.

 

Keep the brake pedal slightly pressed with for example block of wood between pedal and seat to prevent fluid drain.

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8 hours ago, Clavurion said:

 

Keep the brake pedal slightly pressed with for example block of wood between pedal and seat to prevent fluid drain.

Didn't know that, thanks for advice :)

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11 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Started to feel brake vibration again, not long ago they been cleaned and greased. I know that caliper pistons have rust spots in chrome coating, so I'm guessing that might be an issue.  I'm about to order correct size repair kit for calipers, including pistons, just would like to know, if there's any special way how to bleed abs pump? I'm planning to remove calipers so most likely fluid will run out of brake system, I just don't want to get in trouble when bleeding system. Any advice what not to do or best way how to do? I have changed lot of calipers, hoses etc, but all that never requested to empty the system fully, but this time it looks like keeping system with fluid is possible only if I will block houses.

Brake hose clamp?

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11 hours ago, Ray112 said:

would like to know, if there's any special way how to bleed abs pump?


DIS allows you to activate the ABS to bleed but if it’s not been activated much then no real chance of air getting in there so not much value

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TNT arrived, gave me a lunchtime job. 

Out with old, in with new. 

 

IMG-20201009-WA0002.thumb.jpeg.c7582809ce7fd2fba0e20c5dcda0c25f.jpeg

 

The tensioner for the a/c belt should arrive tomorrow or Monday then I can put the front back together... Or shall I order a waterpump? Hmmm

Edited by PL523i

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5 minutes ago, PL523i said:

TNT arrived, gave me a lunchtime job. 

Out with old, in with new. 

 

IMG-20201009-WA0002.thumb.jpeg.c7582809ce7fd2fba0e20c5dcda0c25f.jpeg

 

The tensioner for the a/c belt should arrive tomorrow or Monday then I can put the front back together... Or shall I order a waterpump? Hmmm

What miles are you on? I replaced mine at 220k miles. I thought that it started to leak, but actually there was nothing wrong with it, thermostat o ring was leaking in the end. Looks like OEM BMW pumps lasting long miles.

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im only on 115k but not had the car long and im not sure when it was done last. it has some stamps in the book but no receipts 

 

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27 minutes ago, PL523i said:

im only on 115k but not had the car long and im not sure when it was done last. it has some stamps in the book but no receipts 

 

At 115k most likely it's not been replaced before. For peace of mind you can fit a new pump as well, but I believe it's not essential if you don't have any cooling system issues. Mine was on twice higher miles and still in good condition.

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1 hour ago, PL523i said:

im only on 115k but not had the car long and im not sure when it was done last. it has some stamps in the book but no receipts 

 

 

For £25; replace it. Peace of mind etc

 

Sods law you put it all back together and it starts to leak etc

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32 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

For £25; replace it. Peace of mind etc

 

Sods law you put it all back together and it starts to leak etc

Is it that cheap on petrol engines? Then if replacing water pump, while system is drained, I would change thermostat as well, if there is no proof of that being already done. But stay away from circoli thermostats, not the best experience with them. Last one I used, started to drop temperature week after being installed. I believe behr is OEM equivalent.

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the pump might be £25

but then you might as well change the thermostat, and maybe the housing? thats another £30

then the coolant,

Then maybe some hoses.

and the time.

 

The car holds good temperature, although the coolant is a little low so there's probably a weep somewhere (not into the engine))

 

its pulling that loose thread on the jumper. lol

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ray112 said:

Is it that cheap on petrol engines? Then if replacing water pump, while system is drained, I would change thermostat as well, if there is no proof of that being already done. But stay away from circoli thermostats, not the best experience with them. Last one I used, started to drop temperature week after being installed. I believe behr is OEM equivalent.

 

Yup, Meyle pump is £25. Walther stat is c£45 IIRC and they're what I always use.

 

Febi Bilstein for the hoses and Comma G48 for the coolant etc

 

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1 hour ago, PL523i said:

the pump might be £25

but then you might as well change the thermostat, and maybe the housing? thats another £30

then the coolant,

Then maybe some hoses.

and the time.

 

The car holds good temperature, although the coolant is a little low so there's probably a weep somewhere (not into the engine))

 

its pulling that loose thread on the jumper. lol

 

 

 

I get that, but it's all worth doing, as said, for peace or mind...

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Changed the front fogs. Trouble is when you start looking you find other things need  doing
Now I need a RHS  disc duct, and lower fixings.

Hey ho.

 

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Was supposed to fit my Stabilus rear tailgate struts but it’s my 13th day of self isolation after holidays so bake a banana cake instead. Till next Saturday then!

9F8EFE7F-676C-446B-88B2-AEF5AC5239F2.jpeg

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The 2nd tensioner for the aircon belt circuit arrived today so fitted that. 

 

The immediate goal is an mot so the waterpump will wait til after christmas..

 

Is it wrong to ask for a waterpump and thermostat for Christmas?

 

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DIY not. Tried the UK/US approach based on DIY forums and ended up with German way. Tried to change the tailgate struts on the wagon tailgate. UK/US way is not to remove the trim and Germans say remove trim and unscrew the bolts holding the struts. The point is that with removing the trim is so much easier and does not take time and won’t end up like me today.
 

Whilst trying to remove the strut from the tailgate bolt it snapped and door hinge went up and stayed above the strut making the whole door stuck with no movement. So took off the trim and unscrew the strut bolt but then disaster happened as it destroyed the tread and the screw would not come straight back but at the angle. Fast forward 5 hours and I’ve got both struts changed but one is screwed at an angle (just at few turns until I decide what to do next) and I’m not sure what to do:

1. leave it

2. finish screwing tight at an angle until it somehow is flush with the roof like the other side. But every time I try tightening it snaps off so have to pry the strut back on.

3. Unscrew and find someone who can repair the tread  

 

Thinking to drive to my mechanic for a second opinion.

Either way I recommend the German way as the safest approach! Shmeetee was right!

 

 

CC9A1957-9280-4D9F-BE89-815911A0BAA1.jpeg

288A1B01-C69D-4FC9-9CBC-4BCEBBEADA34.jpeg

1D99C458-9DE2-4DE6-86EB-D6E31EACBA3D.jpeg

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14 minutes ago, Adrian1662 said:

DIY not. Tried the UK/US approach based on DIY forums and ended up with German way. Tried to change the tailgate struts on the wagon tailgate. UK/US way is not to remove the trim and Germans say remove trim and unscrew the bolts holding the struts. The point is that with removing the trim is so much easier and does not take time and won’t end up like me today.
 

Whilst trying to remove the strut from the tailgate bolt it snapped and door hinge went up and stayed above the strut making the whole door stuck with no movement. So took off the trim and unscrew the strut bolt but then disaster happened as it destroyed the tread and the screw would not come straight back but at the angle. Fast forward 5 hours and I’ve got both struts changed but one is screwed at an angle (just at few turns until I decide what to do next) and I’m not sure what to do:

1. leave it

2. finish screwing tight at an angle until it somehow is flush with the roof like the other side. But every time I try tightening it snaps off so have to pry the strut back on.

3. Unscrew and find someone who can repair the tread  

 

Thinking to drive to my mechanic for a second opinion.

Either way I recommend the German way as the safest approach! Shmeetee was right!

 

 

CC9A1957-9280-4D9F-BE89-815911A0BAA1.jpeg

288A1B01-C69D-4FC9-9CBC-4BCEBBEADA34.jpeg

1D99C458-9DE2-4DE6-86EB-D6E31EACBA3D.jpeg

If you leave it like this, you will have water leak through that screw. So far I did glass struts twice, not the main ones, and to be honest second time it took just 15 minutes for both. Of course I didn't remove roof trim, and I will stick to that way. 

Edited by Ray112

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29 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

If you leave it like this, you will have water leak through that screw. So far I did glass struts twice, not the main ones, and to be honest second time it took just 15 minutes for both. Of course I didn't remove roof trim, and I will stick to that way. 

Thanks. The second strut took less than 5 mins with the working thread. I was hoping that screw would catch on but it didn’t. Need to investigate how to fix the thread then. 

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I replaced my rear shock mounts and changed the rear Sport springs to Eibach ProKit ones to match the front. All done and fitted, but need to put the parcel shelf and seats back.  Ran out of time as I had promised to swap out the front discs and pads on Giulietta TB.

 

I know it'll drop some more in next couple of weeks and with the new mounts in place the Bilstein B8's on the back are a quieter and a lot smoother now with no trace if harshness at all.  I should of replaced them when I first did the B8's

 

392051290_Eibachloweres.jpg.f55b704ee0ee438f2a8305648e2dc58c.jpg

 

Eibach loweres 1.jpg

Shock with Compressors.jpg

Rear Bilstein B8.jpg

Rear shock mount 1.jpg

Rear Shock mount change.jpg

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