Jump to content
stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

Recommended Posts

Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid.  I knew they were cracked and had temporarily wrapped the bare wires in loom tape to prevent any shorts, but my reversing camera stopped working so I thought it was time to tackle the job properly.  5 wires in the main loom were visibly cracked and the cause of the reversing camera failure was that 4 of the 5 wires, excluding the coax for the video feed, were broken.

 

IMG_9232x.thumb.JPG.64c7ce5d6caa6967f3376a677e5577c5.JPG

 

This really is a crap design.  The bend radius when the boot is shut is far too tight, failure is inevitable with the type of wire they have used.  The OEM reversing camera wires are very thin, there would be relatively little time between the insulation cracking and copper core breaking.

 

I decided that I might as well do all the wires and replace the section inside the grommet with silicone coated wire which is much more flexible and resistant to fatigue.  I also thought it best to replace the boot grommet as I certainly don;t plan on taking all the wires out again!!  The inside of the old grommet was coated in old loom tape glue, horrible stuff that seems to be almost impossible to remove. After stripping the wire from the boot lid and removing the grommet from the body, I cut all the wires at about the point they enter the grommet.  As I didn't have 20 different coloured wires (why the hell do you need 20 wires going into the boot, including the 5 for the camera and 2 for the coax for the video feed?) only 4 colours, I labelled all the wires as I extended them with the silicone wire and finally soldered them to the original loom together with heat shrink tubing over the joint.

 

IMG_9297x.thumb.JPG.d117b2ef8a538fe7f3bf5ede66beb14b.JPG

 

Before threading the loom back into the boot I wired it all up to make sure it was working.  Everything worked perfectly so I threaded it back into the boot.  I had anticipated that fitting the grommet back into the body as it's double skinned would be quite hard, but actually it was pretty easy, inserting it up from the inside.  The bit that took the time was preparing, soldering and insulating 40 joints in the wires, especially the 20 joints that had to be made in situ in the boot.

 

As soldering wires together inside the confines of the boot is not easy I wrapped each joint in a small piece of loom tape just in case there was a small solder spike that could penetrate the heat shrink.

 

IMG_9298x.thumb.JPG.938f7f1fc364096beb67a7cf54957fc2.JPG


The wires were then all bundled together with more loom tape and the boot trim re-assembled to finish the job, about 6 hours work in total.  I do not want to have to do that again, and I've seen more than enough sticky black loom tape glue for the foreseeable future thanks.

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Pzero said:

 

Polar Seal - 'hydrophobic' as they claim, or snake oil? Not used it myself, is it, as their description of it would suggest - almost like a spray on wax result? 

 

I have tried used Polar Blast for pre-wash recently, not yet formed much of an opinion on it yet as only done one wash and car wasn't too filthy to begin with. Then I foam wash with Demon Foam, cheaper and always been happy with result.

What with work and 4 year old, I rarely get time for a proper waxing afterwards, so curious about Polar Seal.

 

It does a good job IMO. Like a snow foam version of their aqua wax to be fair.

 

It's rained hard today and the water beads superbly 

 

Re the polar blast, use the recommended amount and mix it with warm water. That gets the best results for me.

 

However, the snow foam canon can make a huge difference too, I use the Autobrite one

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, RichardP said:

Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid. 

 

IMG_9232x.thumb.JPG.64c7ce5d6caa6967f3376a677e5577c5.JPG

 

 

 

Good effort, Richard. I've got this job looming on my M5 and was kind of hoping I could knock it off in a couple of hours. Looks like I'd better put a day aside for it!

 

Did a minor repair to this part of the loom in my 530d some years ago. Shortly afterwards I discovered there was a dedicated repair kit with silicone sheathed wires. This one:-

 

P1040479.thumb.JPG.163142f965c3a66dc089e78ac38479a5.JPG

(Above) The Vemo (Vierol) repair kit comes with a cryptic note included in the box. I'll need to untangle that translation before I start the job. (I think it's referring to the 'thicker' brown ground wires provided...)

 

P1040480.thumb.JPG.2ad051d6bfb3576e6f7a9c41108b3ed4.JPG

(Above) The relevant part number for those who might want to buy one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, DepthHoar said:

 

Good effort, Richard. I've got this job looming on my M5 and was kind of hoping I could knock it off in a couple of hours. Looks like I'd better put a day aside for it!

 

Did a minor repair to this part of the loom in my 530d some years ago. Shortly afterwards I discovered there was a dedicated repair kit with silicone sheathed wires. This one:-

 

P1040479.thumb.JPG.163142f965c3a66dc089e78ac38479a5.JPG

(Above) The Vemo (Vierol) repair kit comes with a cryptic note included in the box. I'll need to untangle that translation before I start the job. (I think it's referring to the 'thicker' brown ground wires provided...)

 

P1040480.thumb.JPG.2ad051d6bfb3576e6f7a9c41108b3ed4.JPG

(Above) The relevant part number for those who might want to buy one.

I looked at the ready made repair kits but two things put me off:

 

- They don’t have provision for the reversing camera.

 

- They use butt crimp connectors which I really don’t like. They are bulky and you can easily have a poor connection without realising. Not sure how well they age either.

 

I’m sure it would be much quicker to do with the kit though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, crimp connectors aren't ideal. Maybe I'll cut them off and get busy with my soldering iron?

 

As you say, this part of the E39 wiring loom really is a bit rubbish.

Edited by DepthHoar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, the bit about the ground lines sort of makes sense, there are 4 brown wires, plus other brown wires with stripes. I matched them up exactly just in case, but I suspected that a common wire would do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Retrofitted heated sports seats a few months back. While doing research, I found out that if you have heated or active seats, you'll only need two wires for a power rear sunshade (and the switch pack obviously). Bought a parcel shelf with the power rear sunshade but it had no fabric. Recovered the shelf in black suede, and retrofitted it to the car.  Now my switch pack is looking more populated compared to when I bought the car (ASC only vs Heated front seats, ASC, and now Rear Sunshade).

 

Also, I bought one of those ModLight modules so that the angel eyes illuminate and the mirrors unfold/fold when I unlock/lock the car via the key fob, giving it that modern feeling. I've also activated flashing high beams when I press the lock button twice for no reason what so ever. I feel like activating the cornering lights but I'm on the fence at the moment. 

 

Tomorrow, I will tackle replacing my boot lid and fitting a reverse camera that's built into the handle. Therefore, I still keep the boot handle function.   

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New dampers all round with replacement front hub carriers with new bearings to cure a clonk. 

 

Seems to have done the trick as carrier and bearings were last on the list as everything else was new or recent. 

 

Seems to have worked but I’m stiff and filthy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Felt so bored this afternoon, that decided try to improve headlight lens condition. They were not bad, but wanted more clearer, glossy finish. Sanded with wet and clear coat on top. Looking good now. Will give a buffing after few days, but already satisfied with look.

IMG_20200630_204948.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Felt so bored this afternoon, that decided try to improve headlight lens condition. They were not bad, but wanted more clearer, glossy finish. Sanded with wet and clear coat on top. Looking good now. Will give a buffing after few days, but already satisfied with look.

IMG_20200630_204948.jpg

What did you use to clear coat them with after sanding pls?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Steve P said:

What did you use to clear coat them with after sanding pls?

Some Halfords high gloss lacquer. Didn't bought anything special, some spray tin was just standing spare in shed, so decided to give a try. Didn't count, but I think I sprayed like 5 coats over each. I believe any clear coat spray will work, just make sure it's gloss finish not mat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Yeh mat would be foolish after the effort!

But easy doable mistake, if you don't check carefully what's on tin. Nearly did it myself once, because someone before me must put it back in wrong place. Just picked one from lot and went to pay, noticed that it's not what I need only while waiting at till.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 26/06/2020 at 15:22, Pzero said:

 

Polar Seal - 'hydrophobic' as they claim, or snake oil? Not used it myself, is it, as their description of it would suggest - almost like a spray on wax result? 

 

I have tried used Polar Blast for pre-wash recently, not yet formed much of an opinion on it yet as only done one wash and car wasn't too filthy to begin with. Then I foam wash with Demon Foam, cheaper and always been happy with result.

What with work and 4 year old, I rarely get time for a proper waxing afterwards, so curious about Polar Seal.

 

20200704-092504.jpg

 

Thats a picture of the beading on my car after its last wash and treatment with the Polar Seal. 

 

It's been lashing it down all week here and the cars been out & about a few times. 

 

It beads brilliantly IMO 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fitted a new fuel pump and filter on the M5 as preventive maintenance. Always a bit nerve wracking working over an open petrol tank!

 

There is a clear improvement in throttle response so pleased it has made a difference. A dead pump is one of the very few things that will actually completely stop a petrol e39 so thought I would get ahead of it.

 

The fuel filter was of course the one it left the factory with. Wasn’t full of filth though, and the tank was spotless inside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, THe39M5 said:

Fitted a new fuel pump and filter on the M5 as preventive maintenance. Always a bit nerve wracking working over an open petrol tank!

 

There is a clear improvement in throttle response so pleased it has made a difference. A dead pump is one of the very few things that will actually completely stop a petrol e39 so thought I would get ahead of it.

 

The fuel filter was of course the one it left the factory with. Wasn’t full of filth though, and the tank was spotless inside.

Did mine last year (cos it died). Didn’t realise that the system Rabat about 50psi!!!

Also didn’t realise that having electrical connections inside the petrol inside the tank wasn’t a bomb!!!

Still, once that seal settled properly all was well.

Not something to be repeated though (I hope). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, THe39M5 said:

 

There is a clear improvement in throttle response so pleased it has made a difference. A dead pump is one of the very few things that will actually completely stop a petrol e39 so thought I would get ahead of it.

 

The fuel filter was of course the one it left the factory with. Wasn’t full of filth though, and the tank was spotless inside.

 

 

I had a head-scratching time with the fuel supply system on my M5 a few years ago. In the cause of planned maintenance I replaced the fuel pump with a Pierburg OE pump insert, changed the fuel filter (removed the original as fitted at the factory in Munich in '01) and the fuel pressure regulator. All was good until returning from Italy when the car seemed to be a little down on power and the engine was pinking ever so slightly. Put it down to the stinking hot weather (the down on power bit) and attributed the minor pinking to lousy low octane Italian fuel.

 

Terrible Italian fuel would come back to haunt me a few months later....

 

A few months roll by and the car is still a little down on power. Checked the fuel trims and both the additive and multiplicative adaptations were right at the end of their adjustment. I was surprised the car hadn't thrown a CEL. A week later, on the very day of its scheduled MOT, the CEL flashed on. Great! Hoping for the best, I cleared the fault, drove the car in for its test which fortunately it passed without drama.

 

Time for some diagnostics though. The DME had detected a lean condition and had been trying to add more fuel to counter it. I immediately suspected the new pump since it was one of the last pieces of work carried out on the car. But the pump was new so an unlikely culprit. Maybe there was an internal fuel leak in the tank, possibly from an inadequately tightened up fuel hose clamp? Low fuel pressure would definitely explain both issues I was having. Opened the tank, checked it and it was absolutely fine. At this point you start to imagine any number of different and complicated potential faults but I stuck with testing and eliminating all the basic stuff. Next I removed the newish fuel filter, cut it open and It was brimming with crud on the tank-side, plus the fuel that was contained in the filter was a terrible colour. Changing it + the fuel pressure regulator (again!), 'just in case', brought the power back and had the fuel trims right back to zero adjustment.

 

Interestingly, the fuel tank was pretty clean when I inspected the fuel hose clamps. Could only assume I'd put some filthy fuel in it, the filter had done its job but had eventually been overloaded and restricted the fuel flow. Explained the relative lack of power and the ever so slight pinking. I only use busy fuel stations here in the UK so it must have ingested the crud in Italy.

 

We'd been staying in the mountains nr Lake Garda and I'd filled up with fuel twice at the single petrol pump that served the remote and quiet village we were staying in. The pump was operated by an old boy who sat by the pump all day in deckchair and used a shed the size of a portaloo as a kiosk. I'm guessing there was a huge amount of crap lingering in his underground fuel storage tank that I unwittingly got two doses of. The moral of the story is to avoid low turnover petrol stations.

 

Someone told me the situation is even worse in diesel storage tanks at low turnover fuel stations. Apparently, some sort of algae grows on the side walls of the tanks when they're exposed to 'air' for prolonged periods. The algae eventually gets washed into the fuel and then into your fuel tank and fuel filter, creating all sorts of nasty & surprising engine issues. High turnover fuel stations rarely have this problem since their storage tanks get refilled very soon after they're empty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, eleanorsskipper said:

Did mine last year (cos it died). Didn’t realise that the system Rabat about 50psi!!!

Also didn’t realise that having electrical connections inside the petrol inside the tank wasn’t a bomb!!!

Still, once that seal settled properly all was well.

Not something to be repeated though (I hope). 

The fuel in the pump is drawn through the inside of the motor itself and over the commutator and brushes. Seems insane to do so but the fuel to air ratio needs to be very specific to burn and takes a lot of energy to light it. I kept telling myself that as I stared into the tank!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, THe39M5 said:

The fuel in the pump is drawn through the inside of the motor itself and over the commutator and brushes. Seems insane to do so but the fuel to air ratio needs to be very specific to burn and takes a lot of energy to light it. I kept telling myself that as I stared into the tank!

Leaking fuel tanks and petrol stations only in movies will explod from thrown fag end. Like you said fuel/air mixture must be quite specific to light up from single spark. And in there's nothing to worry about electrical connectors sitting inside fuel tank

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, DepthHoar said:

Someone told me the situation is even worse in diesel storage tanks at low turnover fuel stations. Apparently, some sort of algae grows on the side walls of the tanks when they're exposed to 'air' for prolonged periods. The algae eventually gets washed into the fuel and then into your fuel tank and fuel filter, creating all sorts of nasty & surprising engine issues. High turnover fuel stations rarely have this problem since their storage tanks get refilled very soon after they're empty.

It’s a problem in the marine world too, from long stored diesel in boat tanks. 
I’ve got a tank full of diesel on my yacht & every time I fill up I add ‘Fuelset’. It contains an additive to kill the dreaded diesel bug. God forbid it should get past the 2 filters I have in the system. It’d play havoc when manoeuvring in confined spaces. No brakes on a boat!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New rear brake pads because they were getting low and MOT booked next week, and while there decided to adjust handbrake. It was biting, but could be better. What can I say. That's hell of a stupid design. But it's holding car on downhill, so should be okay. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×