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stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

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Hi, had a go at the headlights a few months back using a Holts kit. Pretty good results definitely a lot smoother and Clearer but it looks like of the stone marks the plastic all the way through and I think the inside of the light  might have had Condensation at some point. 
 

I did them in situ, the trims come off pretty easy and then just mask up around before sanding. 

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Enjoyed a drive from Surrey down to Weymouth and portland bill yesterday, car didn't miss a beat and the new tyres have made a world of difference to the road noise on the motorway. For an old boy he's still comfy as anything. Needs a good wash now so maybe a job for next weekend :)

Matt

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Finished installing the gulf oil filter  housing & oil cooler, rather annoyingly oil is leaking past 2 aluminium washers. Quite a frustrating way to find out dowty seals are a better solution for oil cooler fittings so will have to take it apart again to fit them. Think it’s gonna be a messy job!

Edited by BarryM
Update

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Been at this for a few days... the weather has not helped at all! 
 

Still needs a sand and polish to finish but the results are much better than before! 
 

Thought I’d practice some bodywork skills, prep was a pain also rust treated the whole area so hopefully this section is fixed for a few more years, still plenty of rust to fix In other places. Has anyone has sills repaired in the Leicester area? 

 

Got the seats out this evening to restore them. Think I need to replace the front wheel bearing and the brake hoses need doing after an advisory on the MOT Last year. 

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Was it some glue you were using on rusted area around barrel to fill the rusted out bit or just filler? And is it spray gun or professional rattle cans you used. Finish looks really nice and smooth.

Edited by Ray112

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4 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Was it some glue you were using on rusted area around barrel to fill the rusted out bit or just filler? And is it spray gun or professional rattle cans you used. Finish looks really nice and smooth.

I sanded all the rust away until I had bare metal and then treated it with hammerrite kurust (it stabilises the metal and prevents further rust apparently). I tapped the pitted areas in slightly with a hammer and then rebuilt the missing part of the lock area and filled over the pitted area with some fibreglass filler.

 

Sanded all this back down until smooth and then coated the whole area with a filler primer until i got a uniform finish. Then used a Halfords rattle can for the base coat and a can of Hycote for the clear coat.

 

The finish looks good, a further sand with very fine wet and dry and a polish and wax should give it a deeper mirror finish once the clear has cured. 

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 My gearbox had developed a slight judder at low revs so decided to check the oil level at the weekend, I had noticed before that the front of the gearbox sump was wet and assumed that the torque converter was starting to leak, however, when I checked the sump bolts I found I could get about a quarter of a turn on each one (I serviced the gearbox just under two years ago and thought I'd done them tight enough... :rolleyes:). It took just under a litre to get it back to full and I'm now back to lovely, wafty, smoothness again. :)

 

 Oh, and top tip, I used a pressure bleeder to replace the lost fluid, it makes the job much easier when you're scrabbling around on your back trying not to burn your hands on the exhaust pipe.B)

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Went out this evening to sort out the problem with my outside temperature system because the dash has shown 34.4 whatever time I have looked at it over the last week or so. With my reading specs on I noticed the Initials mph alongside the reading. A couple of presses later on the left hand stalk button and I moved the setting to  degrees and saw an acceptable figure of 30. The joys of getting old!

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6 minutes ago, stevecvo said:

Went out this evening to sort out the problem with my outside temperature system because the dash has shown 34.4 whatever time I have looked at it over the last week or so. With my reading specs on I noticed the Initials mph alongside the reading. A couple of presses later on the left hand stalk button and I moved the setting to  degrees and saw an acceptable figure of 30. The joys of getting old!

Sounds like you might need some specs for driving:D

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Powerfold/chromatic wing mirrors dismantled and the gears all well lubricated with lithium grease

 

Chromatic wing mirror glass replaced with eBay specials; they're still heated, but no longer chromatic. Both glasses had blown and leaked, so had turned bronze in colour etc

 

The new glass just clicks into place rather than there being a locating tab; but they both look well and fit well :) 

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14 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Sounds like you might need some specs for driving:D

I  pass the eyesight test for driving. We are tested every two years here in Portugal over age 70 but I need specs for reading and this obviously affects my ability to see the small stuff on the dashboard.

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3 minutes ago, stevecvo said:

I  pass the eyesight test for driving. We are tested every two years here in Portugal over age 70 but I need specs for reading and this obviously affects my ability to see the small stuff on the dashboard.

I remember back in my youth...blasting down an A road (I mean private runway) at 100mph and my mother said this seems fast for 45mph...I said mother...that's the rev counter pmsl

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Washed; bloody Shite Kites using our driveway as target practise :roll: :mad: :lol: 

 

Autoglym Polar Blast snow foamed, rinsed; alloys washed and tyres scrubbed; AG Polar Wash washed, rinsed; AG Polar Seal applied, rinsed; towel dried and blacks & tyres treated with Chemical Guys tyre/trim gel

 

washed-again.jpg

 

Too bloody hot today for doing this, but it was a necessity.... Was knackered after that; so I trained on the drive too; perfect weather for deadlifting stupid amounts of weight :roll::mrgreen:

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20 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Autoglym Polar Blast snow foamed, rinsed; alloys washed and tyres scrubbed; AG Polar Wash washed, rinsed; AG Polar Seal applied, rinsed; towel dried and blacks & tyres treated with Chemical Guys tyre/trim gel

 

Polar Seal - 'hydrophobic' as they claim, or snake oil? Not used it myself, is it, as their description of it would suggest - almost like a spray on wax result? 

 

I have tried used Polar Blast for pre-wash recently, not yet formed much of an opinion on it yet as only done one wash and car wasn't too filthy to begin with. Then I foam wash with Demon Foam, cheaper and always been happy with result.

What with work and 4 year old, I rarely get time for a proper waxing afterwards, so curious about Polar Seal.

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Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid.  I knew they were cracked and had temporarily wrapped the bare wires in loom tape to prevent any shorts, but my reversing camera stopped working so I thought it was time to tackle the job properly.  5 wires in the main loom were visibly cracked and the cause of the reversing camera failure was that 4 of the 5 wires, excluding the coax for the video feed, were broken.

 

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This really is a crap design.  The bend radius when the boot is shut is far too tight, failure is inevitable with the type of wire they have used.  The OEM reversing camera wires are very thin, there would be relatively little time between the insulation cracking and copper core breaking.

 

I decided that I might as well do all the wires and replace the section inside the grommet with silicone coated wire which is much more flexible and resistant to fatigue.  I also thought it best to replace the boot grommet as I certainly don;t plan on taking all the wires out again!!  The inside of the old grommet was coated in old loom tape glue, horrible stuff that seems to be almost impossible to remove. After stripping the wire from the boot lid and removing the grommet from the body, I cut all the wires at about the point they enter the grommet.  As I didn't have 20 different coloured wires (why the hell do you need 20 wires going into the boot, including the 5 for the camera and 2 for the coax for the video feed?) only 4 colours, I labelled all the wires as I extended them with the silicone wire and finally soldered them to the original loom together with heat shrink tubing over the joint.

 

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Before threading the loom back into the boot I wired it all up to make sure it was working.  Everything worked perfectly so I threaded it back into the boot.  I had anticipated that fitting the grommet back into the body as it's double skinned would be quite hard, but actually it was pretty easy, inserting it up from the inside.  The bit that took the time was preparing, soldering and insulating 40 joints in the wires, especially the 20 joints that had to be made in situ in the boot.

 

As soldering wires together inside the confines of the boot is not easy I wrapped each joint in a small piece of loom tape just in case there was a small solder spike that could penetrate the heat shrink.

 

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The wires were then all bundled together with more loom tape and the boot trim re-assembled to finish the job, about 6 hours work in total.  I do not want to have to do that again, and I've seen more than enough sticky black loom tape glue for the foreseeable future thanks.

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Pzero said:

 

Polar Seal - 'hydrophobic' as they claim, or snake oil? Not used it myself, is it, as their description of it would suggest - almost like a spray on wax result? 

 

I have tried used Polar Blast for pre-wash recently, not yet formed much of an opinion on it yet as only done one wash and car wasn't too filthy to begin with. Then I foam wash with Demon Foam, cheaper and always been happy with result.

What with work and 4 year old, I rarely get time for a proper waxing afterwards, so curious about Polar Seal.

 

It does a good job IMO. Like a snow foam version of their aqua wax to be fair.

 

It's rained hard today and the water beads superbly 

 

Re the polar blast, use the recommended amount and mix it with warm water. That gets the best results for me.

 

However, the snow foam canon can make a huge difference too, I use the Autobrite one

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2 hours ago, RichardP said:

Finally got round to fixing the cracked insulation on the wires in the grommet to the boot lid. 

 

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Good effort, Richard. I've got this job looming on my M5 and was kind of hoping I could knock it off in a couple of hours. Looks like I'd better put a day aside for it!

 

Did a minor repair to this part of the loom in my 530d some years ago. Shortly afterwards I discovered there was a dedicated repair kit with silicone sheathed wires. This one:-

 

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(Above) The Vemo (Vierol) repair kit comes with a cryptic note included in the box. I'll need to untangle that translation before I start the job. (I think it's referring to the 'thicker' brown ground wires provided...)

 

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(Above) The relevant part number for those who might want to buy one.

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18 minutes ago, DepthHoar said:

 

Good effort, Richard. I've got this job looming on my M5 and was kind of hoping I could knock it off in a couple of hours. Looks like I'd better put a day aside for it!

 

Did a minor repair to this part of the loom in my 530d some years ago. Shortly afterwards I discovered there was a dedicated repair kit with silicone sheathed wires. This one:-

 

P1040479.thumb.JPG.163142f965c3a66dc089e78ac38479a5.JPG

(Above) The Vemo (Vierol) repair kit comes with a cryptic note included in the box. I'll need to untangle that translation before I start the job. (I think it's referring to the 'thicker' brown ground wires provided...)

 

P1040480.thumb.JPG.2ad051d6bfb3576e6f7a9c41108b3ed4.JPG

(Above) The relevant part number for those who might want to buy one.

I looked at the ready made repair kits but two things put me off:

 

- They don’t have provision for the reversing camera.

 

- They use butt crimp connectors which I really don’t like. They are bulky and you can easily have a poor connection without realising. Not sure how well they age either.

 

I’m sure it would be much quicker to do with the kit though.

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Yes, crimp connectors aren't ideal. Maybe I'll cut them off and get busy with my soldering iron?

 

As you say, this part of the E39 wiring loom really is a bit rubbish.

Edited by DepthHoar

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Oh, the bit about the ground lines sort of makes sense, there are 4 brown wires, plus other brown wires with stripes. I matched them up exactly just in case, but I suspected that a common wire would do.

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Retrofitted heated sports seats a few months back. While doing research, I found out that if you have heated or active seats, you'll only need two wires for a power rear sunshade (and the switch pack obviously). Bought a parcel shelf with the power rear sunshade but it had no fabric. Recovered the shelf in black suede, and retrofitted it to the car.  Now my switch pack is looking more populated compared to when I bought the car (ASC only vs Heated front seats, ASC, and now Rear Sunshade).

 

Also, I bought one of those ModLight modules so that the angel eyes illuminate and the mirrors unfold/fold when I unlock/lock the car via the key fob, giving it that modern feeling. I've also activated flashing high beams when I press the lock button twice for no reason what so ever. I feel like activating the cornering lights but I'm on the fence at the moment. 

 

Tomorrow, I will tackle replacing my boot lid and fitting a reverse camera that's built into the handle. Therefore, I still keep the boot handle function.   

 

 

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New dampers all round with replacement front hub carriers with new bearings to cure a clonk. 

 

Seems to have done the trick as carrier and bearings were last on the list as everything else was new or recent. 

 

Seems to have worked but I’m stiff and filthy!

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22 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Felt so bored this afternoon, that decided try to improve headlight lens condition. They were not bad, but wanted more clearer, glossy finish. Sanded with wet and clear coat on top. Looking good now. Will give a buffing after few days, but already satisfied with look.

IMG_20200630_204948.jpg

What did you use to clear coat them with after sanding pls?

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