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What did you do to your E39 today ?

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5 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

Front bearings are quite easy, did mine (one side first time) in about 2 hours on driveway. About subframe bushings, there's few suggestions how to get them out and back in without tool. 

Cool. Will look into options on brands. 

FAG I believe is the OEM option. 

Meyle ones on c3 BMW. 

 

Will have a look for the how to's on no tool removal

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 Not today but had a bit of a mare at the weekend: Rear wheel bearing job to do, jacked up on the diff, stand in place for the jacking point, lowered the car firstly onto myself as the stand was set too low, then because of the geometry of lowering a car on a trolley jack the axle stand was positioned too far back and bent the jacking point. FML. I don’t know if it’s corroded or if it’s just because I got it with a point load. I’ve jacked the car up on it numerous times with no issue so I don’t think it’s corroded... ended up putting the axle stand under the subframe. 

 

Anyway everything was tight, and the handbrake mechanism has broken - the spring clips that locate the shoes on the backing plate have pulled out of the plate, leaving the shoes free to flap about to an extent and bind. Ah well. Slacken off, put everything back together and abandon job until new backing plate etc sourced. And I was so efficient buying a hub and bearing and pressing the two together the night before (last Friday). Still, at least everything’s slackened off ready to go for round two...

 

...and breathe... sorry to rant but it’s cathartic. I think I’m most upset about the jacking point. 

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26 minutes ago, The Spooner said:

 Not today but had a bit of a mare at the weekend: Rear wheel bearing job to do, jacked up on the diff, stand in place for the jacking point, lowered the car firstly onto myself as the stand was set too low, then because of the geometry of lowering a car on a trolley jack the axle stand was positioned too far back and bent the jacking point. FML. I don’t know if it’s corroded or if it’s just because I got it with a point load. I’ve jacked the car up on it numerous times with no issue so I don’t think it’s corroded... ended up putting the axle stand under the subframe. 

 

Anyway everything was tight, and the handbrake mechanism has broken - the spring clips that locate the shoes on the backing plate have pulled out of the plate, leaving the shoes free to flap about to an extent and bind. Ah well. Slacken off, put everything back together and abandon job until new backing plate etc sourced. And I was so efficient buying a hub and bearing and pressing the two together the night before (last Friday). Still, at least everything’s slackened off ready to go for round two...

 

...and breathe... sorry to rant but it’s cathartic. I think I’m most upset about the jacking point. 

Mine started to bent jacking points when cill (just outside skin) was rotten around them. Inside everything was like new. At this stage they won't collapse, but start to bent. Remove plastic undertray from cills and inspect them. Back usually is worse than front.

Edited by Ray112

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10 hours ago, falcodub said:

Cool. Will look into options on brands. 

FAG I believe is the OEM option. 

Meyle ones on c3 BMW. 

 

I had an advisory on my front bearings too, looking to get it done in the near future, will be interested in hearing how your experience with it goes Falco!

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17 minutes ago, Pzero said:

 

I had an advisory on my front bearings too, looking to get it done in the near future, will be interested in hearing how your experience with it goes Falco!

They aren't too bad to do, as has been said. A couple of days before I did mine I sprayed the strut clamp and strut with penetrating fluid. One of the bolts (from memory) requires the hub assembly to be dropped for access but it's not too bad. I was also in to replace all suspension arms at the same time. 

 

Even I managed it and I'm a half wit (see my post above!)

Edited by The Spooner

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10 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Mine started to bent jacking points when cill (just outside skin) was rotten around them. Inside everything was like new. At this stage they won't collapse, but start to bent. Remove plastic undertray from cills and inspect them. Back usually is worse than front.

 

Yes I'll have to be brave and strip back the covers! It's just strange how the week before I jacked it up on that point and there was no indication of anything amiss. As you say though, if the outside is slightly rotten but the internal bits are strong I wouldn't have necessarily noticed a problem. Ah well.

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Hi all,

I am looking to change the flexible rubber pipes to the wheel cylinders to braided stainless ones.

Are there preferred options? I'm looking at HEL coloured ones at the mo!

 

R

 

 

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2 hours ago, eleanorsskipper said:

Hi all,

I am looking to change the flexible rubber pipes to the wheel cylinders to braided stainless ones.

Are there preferred options? I'm looking at HEL coloured ones at the mo!

 

R

 

 

 

I'd always recommend HEL; used them myself for years now and never any issues

 

Goodridge are good; but you need to pay more for stainless fittings whereas HEL are stainless from the off :) 

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I went with HEL when my rear flexy hoses needed replacing on my 530d. From memory they were pretty good value. HEL wanted to know details of the correct length of hose required for my car. This might not be an issue with your vehicle as the details may be on their database; mine weren't. (You'll be able to find the exact dimension very easily online without having to remove the brake hose to measure it.)

 

The braided brake hose vs standard flexy hose argument has always interested me.

 

My M5 had rubber hoses as standard but was wearing braided hoses all round when I bought it back in 2013. I'm thinking of replacing them some time soon since they may have done upwards of 10 yrs service. Had a conversation with my local spannerman (who's had involvement in Scottish motor sport) about the braided/standard hose debate. He's not 100% convinced that braided hoses give better (firmer) brake pedal response. According to him, a careful and thorough bleeding of the brakes will always give some noticeable improvement compared to going braided for normal road use.

 

Inspecting standard brake hoses is simpler, too.

 

This guy gives a pretty balanced view on the debate: 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LJiPDAr9f8

 

If you're taking your car to the track regularly braided hoses may produce some very minor marginal gains (maybe), but for regular street use this could be outweighed by the comparative longevity of standard hoses. Here's another video, this time from a guy who comes down on the side of standard rubber hoses for normal road use:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csV5gQo9wmc

 

Car manufacturers pretty much exclusively fit rubber hoses to cars, including high performance brands. That alone is a good enough argument for me, so this is what's going on to the front of my M5 quite soon:

 

P1040465crop.thumb.jpg.d6a45266cf4c9d644dc5bd695d4d9f26.jpg

 

 

Edited by DepthHoar

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The hoses on the beast are 22 years old as far as I can tell, so hence the change.

ill go with HEL now though.

 

Cheers guys.

 

R

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On 15/06/2020 at 20:53, Pzero said:

A good scrub up today ready to go into an auto gearbox specialist near me who I've not used before. After replacing that split transmission oil cooler a few months back, no idea how much juice I lost before I fixed it, and to my knowledge the box oil nor filter haven't been changed changed before, so time for a freshen up. This place comes highly recommended, but is it just me who worries like the old cartoon expectant father pacing up and down outside the delivery room when handing the car over to a mechanic you've not used before!

 

As much as I like to do my own wrenching, free time and getting the car sufficiently up in the air on my sloping driveway to drop the gearbox sump is not really an option. 

I see you're in/near Brighton - who's doing the gearbox oil change for you?

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24 minutes ago, Loadmaster said:

I see you're in/near Brighton - who's doing the gearbox oil change for you?

 

Automatic Gearbox Centre in Hove. Service was great, really nice guys and will be my go-to for any gearbox issues (not that I expect / want any!) for as long as I have an auto, based on yesterday. 

 

https://www.automaticgearboxcentre.co.uk/

 

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All genuine OEM BMW front wheel arch liners and undertray fitted this morning

 

undertray.jpg

 

 

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27 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

All genuine OEM BMW front wheel arch liners and undertray fitted this morning

 

undertray.jpg

 

 

Rand Cotswold re my wheel arch liners. Bloody hell they're expensive!

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30 minutes ago, eleanorsskipper said:

Rand Cotswold re my wheel arch liners. Bloody hell they're expensive!

 

I didn't think they were too bad TBH

 

At the end of the day they'reBMW parts, so never going to be cheap; but at least they fit and fit properly, not like aftermarket parts that tend to be shite from the off, unfortunately 

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£380 for both sides is a bit steep at this stage though. There’s quite a bit that needs doing first.

brakes first methinks. After all. 22yr old flexible pipes are just that. 22yrs old!

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38 minutes ago, BarryM said:

What's with the new wheel arch liners, surely not a part that needs to be replaced?

They are ok, but I’ve fitted a sports bumper & the old liners don’t exactly fit the new shape!

Hence I need to either do a little ‘fettling’ or replace the liner.

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59 minutes ago, eleanorsskipper said:

£380 for both sides is a bit steep at this stage though. There’s quite a bit that needs doing first.

brakes first methinks. After all. 22yr old flexible pipes are just that. 22yrs old!

 

I didn't pay that at all; I paid less than 1/3rd that via BMW Cotswolds

 

Maybe you need to speak to them again :) 

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55 minutes ago, BarryM said:

What's with the new wheel arch liners, surely not a part that needs to be replaced?

 

Mine did; that's why I replaced them...! :? 

 

The heat in Japan had made them very brittle and they literally crumbled in your hands, so they've been replaced with all new ones :) 

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42 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

I didn't pay that at all; I paid less than 1/3rd that via BMW Cotswolds

 

Maybe you need to speak to them again :) 

Clearly I do. They had trouble finding the correct part number too!

maybe the info I gave them was a bit duff.

R

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30 minutes ago, eleanorsskipper said:

Clearly I do. They had trouble finding the correct part number too!

maybe the info I gave them was a bit duff.

R

 

Part number 2 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DS62-EUR-05-2002-E39-BMW-530i&diagId=41_0056

 

Albeit that's for my 530i touring; but can't see how they'd be different for a V8

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32 minutes ago, eleanorsskipper said:

Clearly I do. They had trouble finding the correct part number too!

maybe the info I gave them was a bit duff.

R

 

Just reading back; the 'pork chops' the plastic bumper liner for each corner are £190 each, so that'd be £380 in total. Is it those you meant, or the actual wheel arch liners?

 

FYI the pork chops are not available anywhere else other than via BMW; they outsourced their moulding tools IIRC and that company that makes them won't reduce their prices!

 

There are some via Poland/Lithuania/Ukraine that are supposed to be a very good copy & fit; available via eBay

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1 hour ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Part number 2 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DS62-EUR-05-2002-E39-BMW-530i&diagId=41_0056

 

Albeit that's for my 530i touring; but can't see how they'd be different for a V8

I’ll bet the arches are the same, but it’s the section that covers the inside of the arch where it goes down to the bumper which I need.

 

R

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