What did you do to your E39 today ?

[LiamE36 8]

The cable from the outer door handle to the latch broke, and i had the child lock on too.

Cable now replaced.

[Pzero 103]

26 minutes ago, LiamE36 said:

The cable from the outer door handle to the latch broke, and i had the child lock on too.

 

Oh man, I had a cable break a few years back with my last E39 saloon. Did you get the door card off on one piece with the door closed?

Edited April 29 by Pzero

[LiamE36 8]

2 hours ago, Pzero said:

 

Oh man, I had a cable break a few years back with my last E39 saloon. Did you get the door card off on one piece with the door closed?

 

Ye and surprisingly easily, had the hole job done in about 45 minutes (did it in my lunch break with 15 minutes left to spare).

The Rear door cards on the E39 are easy to get out with the door closed compared to some cars I’ve done before, massively helped by the fact that there is only one screw (interior door handle, easy to get at with door opened or closed) and the rest is just all clips.

Edited April 29 by LiamE36

[Clavurion 694]

14 minutes ago, LiamE36 said:

 

Ye and surprisingly easily, had the hole job done in about 45 minutes (did it in my lunch break with 15 minutes left to spare).

The Rear door cards on the E39 are easy to get out with the door closed compared to some cars I’ve done before, massively helped by the fact that there is only one screw (interior door handle, easy to get at with door opened or closed) and the rest is just all clips.

 

Removing rear seat cushion gives you also plenty of room. Though on touring that takes more effort than on sedan which is just lift it out.

[Pzero 103]

Not had to try it with a rear door, but on my last E39 saloon the drivers door lock failed, preventing the lock from operating by either interior or exterior door handles. Trim clips along the bottom of the door card sandwiched against the door by inside of the frame, so couldn't unclip bottom, swing it away from door and lift it off as usual. Ended up having to cut my way in through the softer airbag section and trashed the door card. Finding a single replacement door card wasn't possible, had to buy a full set of all four from ebay. Got three spare cards as a result, just hope that if it ever happens again, it's a door other than drivers this time!

Edited April 30 by Pzero

[Piper 1,308]

11 hours ago, Pzero said:

Not had to try it with a rear door, but on my last E39 saloon the drivers door lock failed, preventing the lock from operating by either interior or exterior door handles. Trim clips along the bottom of the door card sandwiched against the door by inside of the frame, so couldn't unclip bottom, swing it away from door and lift it off as usual. Ended up having to cut my way in through the softer airbag section and trashed the door card. Finding a single replacement door card wasn't possible, had to buy a full set of all four from ebay. Got three spare cards as a result, just hope that if it ever happens again, it's a door other than drivers this time!

 

That's a bummer. Never heard of that happening before. I would hate to have to strip down the doors again 

[Paddy O'Furniture 753]

22 hours ago, Pzero said:

just hope that if it ever happens again, it's a door other than drivers this time!

Sod’s law says that if it does happen again, it’ll be the same door. 

[Ray112 140]

Found parasitic battery drain today. After 16 minutes still 0.08-0.09A, removed all fuses, still not much difference. Next removed fuse 75 and 76, two big ones for heater blower and front pusher fan. Current draw dropped to 0.02A, so well within specification. Right, thought it's final stage resistor, so installed back pusher fan fuse (50A), waited another 16min car to go back sleep and for my big surprise current draw was again high at 0.08A, so in the end it's pusher fan, which is draining battery. Otherwise it's perfectly working, no faults stored, running nicely at all different speeds etc. So little confused now. Is it common they are causing parasitic current draw? 

Edited May 1 by Ray112

[d_a_n1979 2,615]

23 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

Found parasitic battery drain today. After 16 minutes still 0.08-0.09A, removed all fuses, still not much difference. Next removed fuse 75 and 76, two big ones for heater blower and front pusher fan. Current draw dropped to 0.02A, so well within specification. Right, thought it's final stage resistor, so installed back pusher fan fuse (50A), waited another 16min car to go back sleep and for my big surprise current draw was again high at 0.08A, so in the end it's pusher fan, which is draining battery. Otherwise it's perfectly working, no faults stored, running nicely at all different speeds etc. So little confused now. Is it common they are causing parasitic current draw? 

 

Wow; never heard of that. Is the HVAC panel anything to do with it as that was my current drain?

[Ray112 140]

12 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Wow; never heard of that. Is the HVAC panel anything to do with it as that was my current drain?

Not sure, but I don't think so. So far I know it's been all time live and grounded. It's been turned on by signal from ECU. Normally it comes on at variable speeds (depends on ECU request) when A/C is on. I'm not sure if it works as extra cooling fan, if engine is running too hot. There's a connector for pusher fan right next to drivers side headlight. Disconnecting that will instantly reduce current draw, if fan is draining battery, so easy to check.

[Ray112 140]

Pusher fan has circuit board on back, some years (maybe different manufacturer, but I think all OEM were Siemens) has very poor design, back of motor is exposed to water. Leafs and other junk from road gets trapped between main radiator and pusher fan motor, permanent moisture causing damage. Some pictures from one I replaced some years ago. A lot of electronic connectors and others bits were grown in that green corrosion powered. That fan didn't even turn on, the one which is now on car working faultless, just having a battery drain issue.

[Pzero 103]

See if you can guess what mundane 30 second job required this much effort to actually get access to

 

Also a question : Anyone who's taken your front wheel liner out some point, the three rivets which hold the rear outer edge to the body in the rear of the front arch - were yours plastic or metal? Ordered a few plastic ones in preparation, expecting them to be plastic based on RealOEM part numbers, found the existing ones were metal and had to drill them out (making this job even longer and more tedious than it should have been for what it was!)

Edited May 2 by Pzero
Corrected number of rivets I had to drill out!

[RichardP 1,177]

Windscreen washer pump or hoses?

 

Pretty sure mine were plastic rivets.

[Pzero 103]

1 minute ago, RichardP said:

Windscreen washer pump or hoses?

 

Rear washer pump. Wasn't pumping. Now pumps.

 

Thank god it wasn't the hose, don't want to think about having to re-run the rear washer hose unless I have to. Did the front hoses on my last E39, piece of cake, but all through the body on a tourer? Hopefully never for that job, the ends of the hose by the pump were nice and supple still. 

 

Hmm. I expected plastic rivets too. So how have I ended up with metal...

[d_a_n1979 2,615]

19 minutes ago, Pzero said:

 

Rear washer pump. Wasn't pumping. Now pumps.

 

Thank god it wasn't the hose, don't want to think about having to re-run the rear washer hose unless I have to. Did the front hoses on my last E39, piece of cake, but all through the body on a tourer? Hopefully never for that job, the ends of the hose by the pump were nice and supple still. 

 

Hmm. I expected plastic rivets too. So how have I ended up with metal...

 

Did this the other week myself pal. My rear washer has never worked, only took me a year to get around to it  Fortunately, it was just the pump and I had an old one that worked properly in the garage, just needed to guerilla engineer the piping due to different size outlets. 

 

Plastic rivets too, just popped the middles out and used new ones when I put the arch liner back

 

Edited May 2 by d_a_n1979

[Pzero 103]

That's bloody annoying that. Having to drill out the metal ones - and going off course with one of them, nicking the side of the hole in the wing for it, and needing to get some Hammerite on that before putting it all back together again made this trivial job waaaay longer than it should have been. 

[d_a_n1979 2,615]

10 minutes ago, Pzero said:

That's bloody annoying that. Having to drill out the metal ones - and going off course with one of them, nicking the side of the hole in the wing for it, and needing to get some Hammerite on that before putting it all back together again made this trivial job waaaay longer than it should have been. 

 

Yeah; tis a sod. I'd say someone's put them in there. Deffo not OEM as far as I'm aware  

[Clavurion 694]

32 minutes ago, Pzero said:

That's bloody annoying that. Having to drill out the metal ones - and going off course with one of them, nicking the side of the hole in the wing for it, and needing to get some Hammerite on that before putting it all back together again made this trivial job waaaay longer than it should have been. 

 

Someone has already been there, broken the original plastic rivets and used pop rivets instead. Those original ones are easy to remove intact so that you push the center piece thru with a nail so the rivet itself easily pulls out. 

 

These are usually available on many part stores and very close to original.

https://restagraf.com/en/la-fixatique/2468-plastic-rivet-o-5-55-mm-bumper-and-wheel-housing-cover.html

.

Edited May 2 by Clavurion

[Pzero 103]

16 minutes ago, Clavurion said:

 

Someone has already been there, broken the original plastic rivets and used pop rivets instead. Those original ones are easy to remove intact so that you push the center piece thru with a nail so the rivet itself easily pulls out. 

 

These are usually available on many part stores and very close to original.

https://restagraf.com/en/la-fixatique/2468-plastic-rivet-o-5-55-mm-bumper-and-wheel-housing-cover.html

.

Yeah, dealt with them before, and was expecting to find them this time. As a result I had already got a dozen new ones before doing this job as I expected to lose at least one pin or have one of them break. 

Oh well, at least I know that if I have to go in there again then that time will DEFINITELY be plastic ones to remove.

[d_a_n1979 2,615]

Washed it due to the local Shite Kites using it as target practise, and they'd been walking on the car too, the roof and bonnet were full of footprints...   

 

Used the Autoglym stuff I won the other week (rinsed, snow foamed using Polar Blast, rinsed, washed with the Ultra High Definition shampoo, rinsed and then sealed with the Polar seal; rinsed that off and towel dried). 

 

It's a superb product and you can see it working as soon as you apply it, the beading effect is superb! 

 

Edited May 3 by d_a_n1979

[d_a_n1979 2,615]

Ordered this today as well:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UB3ERIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Correct paint colour and lacquer to give the front number plate plinth and the rear OEM BMW Jap/US import spec plate plinth a good spraying etc... Hopefully my DIY skills will be ok, most of the front one will be covered by the plate, but the rear is quite a bit of real estate etc

 

 

These were parts that were going to get resprayed by the body shop along with the front-end refresh, so if I cock them up I'll just get them done again once the lockdown has been lifted

[NuckingFuts 78]

Fuel return line, part number 13532248276 

Part #9:

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DP72-EUR-02-2002-E39-BMW-530d&diagId=13_0801

 

Does anyone know what size fuel hose it is? Would any generic 7/8/9/10mm fuel hose work with some jubilee clips instead of the oem ones? I want to say it’s 8/9mm but neither realoem nor any of the eBay listings state any kind of specs for the hose. 
 

I’ve been changing the seals and replacing two injectors, one that was buggered and one on its way out (garage did a leak off test for me) and managed to snap the plastic T-Piece when reattaching the Braided fuel line that connects to the top of the injectors. 
 

I bought a brass replacement/upgrade kit but then snapped the main connector of the fuel hose to braided line that sits under the inlet. 
 

So if you look at the attached photo, these clips Make me want to blow the car up. They’ll be replaced with jubilee clips. However; the fuel hose they’re fastening on to; can I replace that with any generic fuel hose? What size of hose if yes?!

 

BMW oem one is ~£55 and would take 3 working days to arrive and I can’t wait that long as I need to get to a hospital appointment and the cab fair would be extortionate. 
 

Muchos Gracias 

NF aka Deepan

 

Edited May 6 by NuckingFuts

[Ray112 140]

32 minutes ago, NuckingFuts said:

Fuel return line, part number 13532248276 

Part #9:

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DP72-EUR-02-2002-E39-BMW-530d&diagId=13_0801

 

Does anyone know what size fuel hose it is? Would any generic 7/8/9/10mm fuel hose work with some jubilee clips instead of the oem ones? I want to say it’s 8/9mm but neither realoem nor any of the eBay listings state any kind of specs for the hose. 
 

I’ve been changing the seals and replacing two injectors, one that was buggered and one on its way out (garage did a leak off test for me) and managed to snap the plastic T-Piece when reattaching the Braided fuel line that connects to the top of the injectors. 
 

I bought a brass replacement/upgrade kit but then snapped the main connector of the fuel hose to braided line that sits under the inlet. 
 

So if you look at the attached photo, these clips Make me want to blow the car up. They’ll be replaced with jubilee clips. However; the fuel hose they’re fastening on to; can I replace that with any generic fuel hose? What size of hose if yes?!

 

BMW oem one is ~£55 and would take 3 working days to arrive and I can’t wait that long as I need to get to a hospital appointment and the cab fair would be extortionate. 
 

Muchos Gracias 

NF aka Deepan

 

Rubber fuel hoses has 8mm inner diameter, clear plastic ones has 10mm inner diameter. Needed to change couple of mines, and used universal hose instead. No problems at all.

[Clavurion 694]

Gates 8 mm hoses have worked with mine.

[NuckingFuts 78]

@Ray112 you are a beautiful human bean ! 
 

it’s the black rubber one, so 8mm fuel hose. Any idea on what length you bought and where from? 
 

I can’t wait to buy some tomorrow, cut the old ones out and make it all nice and shiny!!

 

bloomin cars, like our women; can’t live with them, can’t live without them.