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stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

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Been busy this weekend fitting the bits I had stored up the past few months:

 

E38 leather armrest

MID Retrofit

Grom USB kit and Bluetooth mic

Misc interior trim

 

All detailed in my Project thread :)

 

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And for today's job/fix...

 

Rear windscreen washer has never worked; just got round to seeing what it is (duff motor). Fortunately I had another OEM washer from a previous car spare in the garage, but with a different sized outlet; so a bit of guerrilla engineering and some spare washer piping/connectors and it's all working... Only taken me a year to get around to it :lol: 

 

washerfix.jpg

 

Both wheel arches scrubbed to within an inch of their lives too and treated with G303 Aerospace protectant ;) 

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I've said before but the windscreen washer system on my old E39 touring was the achillies heel... I was working on fixing that more times than I can count. I had to have the wheel arch liner out at least 3 times fixing different, unrelated issues (one dead pump, one pump that was just leaking everywhere, and headlight washer issues too) and had to replace the pipework up and under the bonnet once.. then that started to leak so I had to use little cable ties on all the ends to hold the pipes onto the jets.. it was NEVER ENDING. 

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10 minutes ago, chicaneuk said:

I've said before but the windscreen washer system on my old E39 touring was the achillies heel... I was working on fixing that more times than I can count. I had to have the wheel arch liner out at least 3 times fixing different, unrelated issues (one dead pump, one pump that was just leaking everywhere, and headlight washer issues too) and had to replace the pipework up and under the bonnet once.. then that started to leak so I had to use little cable ties on all the ends to hold the pipes onto the jets.. it was NEVER ENDING. 


Never ever had any issues on any E39 I’ve had, same with my E38. The intensive wash pump on my previous E65 split, so leaked every time I topped it up, replaced that and no further issues.

 

The system on my touring, bar the rear washer pump has been faultless with no brittle piping etc...

 

Ive been lucky, or you’ve been unlucky pal I’d say

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On 31/03/2020 at 19:35, NWJW said:

 

 

The cars been back together for a while now, still haven't put a new mot on it seeing as I can't actually drive it anywhere (got the van for going to the shops) so it's sat around for now looking pretty dirty....

 

...Oh, and I decided to fit some Apex lowering springs I've had sitting about for a while whilst I was in there; 

 

 

004

 

 

 

 

 To update, I finally got around to mot-ing it on Tuesday, had one advisory for a rusty brake line (which I knew about) so I've treated it to a wash and interior valet; 

 

003

 

002

 

 Just a shame we're having this cracking weather and I can't actually drive it anywhere.... :(

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Fried up my alternator today, don't know even what exactly happened. Went for shopping, turned music up and enjoyed drive. On way back, noticed that battery light flashes on dashboard, turned music off, blower off, so I can get last mile till home. Was showing 11.6v when running. Stopped car, opened bonnet and alternator was smoking. Disconnected battery, and battery voltage was 12.2 when disconnected. A lot of sparks coming from terminal when trying to connect it back. Like something has shortened. I will disconnect alternator and check if sparks are gone tomorrow,  to confirm nothing else is going short to ground. Anyway absolutely wrong time for all this, when you really struggle to get any parts. 

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I painted my calipers and carriers using VHT black paint on my E39. 

First I removed the wheels and vigorously rubbed the brakes down with a wire brush.

I then separated the calipers from the carriers and masked off with newspaper and masking tape then spray painted them using the rattle can with several light coats with about 10 mins between coats to let them dry.  Quite a quick process as it was very sunny and warm yesterday.

Once completed I then gave a quick spray of lacquer to give it a 'gloss look' as opposed to the  matt effect the paint left.

 

 

Brakes painted.jpg

Brakes unpainte.jpg

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Converted my ‘01 M5 to automatic headlights. Fitted the Rain Light Sensor to the windscreen, new headlight switch and fitted and coded a used LCM IIIB. My first time ever coding anything and it all works! 

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78123FD8-C26D-4579-B1A6-8D4051DF299D.jpeg

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Getting rid of rust surface rust on the drivers side of the sill and removed drivers door mirror to get rid of flaking and bubbling paint, not 100% happy but then rain and thunder stopped play.

Rusty Sill 1.jpg

Rusty Sill 2.jpg

Rusty sill 3.jpg

Rusty Sill 4.jpg

Rusty sill 5.jpg

Rusty sill 6.jpg

Rusty Sill.jpg

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 As long as I've had my car I've had a problem with the heaters in that they've only blown lukewarm at best, with the drivers side always blowing colder than the passenger side, I've tried everything to sort the issue without success so far and was left with the worst case scenario; The heater matrix.....

 

 ..... So I've spent the last few days swapping it out and all I can say is NEVER AGAIN!!

 

 My interior went from looking like this; 

 

003

 

To this.......

 

002

 

And at one point my kitchen looked this;

 

001

 

Out of curiosity I cut the old matrix open and it was definitely blocked; 

 

004

 

 I'm not sure if it's been caused by someone mixing different types of antifreeze in the car, radweld or lack of coolant changes or a combination of all the above, there was evidence of radweld in and around the expansion bottle when I bought it.

 

Anyway, it's all back together now and everything still works (the amount of wiring I had to disconnect was quite daunting!) and it was very satisfying when I first started it and could feel heat coming through the vents before the temperature gauge had even started moving.  :)

Edited by NWJW

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Radweld is very nasty stuff and I have seen it blocking up few heater matrix cores before. Won't be surprised, it's caused all blockage in this time as well. Dash out job is complicated stuff on any car, the more gadgets in car, more complicated it gets. Well done:)

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I had a similar problem with my Humber Hawk last year, while driving along it was fine although running a little warm according to the temperature gauge but with a 55 year old car the voltage rectifier can do this.

 

Once on stop it would just chuck all the coolant out of the overflow on the radiator neck, but it was not pressurising and there was good flow off the pump but the twat who sold the car knew this because he took the thermostat out, not that it made any difference. Eventually after going through everything and changing bits and flushing and messing around it could only be the radiator.

 

When I felt the centre of the radiator it was only lukewarm, yes the fan was there but it was a direct drive metal blade so it would not pull any extra air through. When i took the radiator out it weighed nearly as much as a concrete block, I had it re-cored as there are no new ones available and when i cut the old core up it was full of radweld, evil stuff!! 

 

So even though i had water flow through the radiator it was circumnavigating the center as this was the path of least resistance and causing poor cooling. 

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1) Finally got around to fitting my M5 style power-folding mirrors.

2) While the door cards were out during doing the above, I replaced some of the plastic clips to eliminate some of the rattles I heard from the door going over bumps.

2) Test fitted my AC Schnitzer 3 piece boot spoiler. Now I need to paint it before fitting it. 

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20 minutes ago, DerekJr. said:

1) Finally got around to fitting my M5 style power-folding mirrors.

2) While the door cards were out during doing the above, I replaced some of the plastic clips to eliminate some of the rattles I heard from the door going over bumps.

2) Test fitted my AC Schnitzer 3 piece boot spoiler. Now I need to paint it before fitting it. 


How are the mirrors pal & have you had them sprayed? 

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2 hours ago, NWJW said:

 As long as I've had my car I've had a problem with the heaters in that they've only blown lukewarm at best, with the drivers side always blowing colder than the passenger side, I've tried everything to sort the issue without success so far and was left with the worst case scenario; The heater matrix.....

 

 ..... So I've spent the last few days swapping it out and all I can say is NEVER AGAIN!!

 

Out of curiosity I cut the old matrix open and it was definitely blocked; 

 

004

 

 I'm not sure if it's been caused by someone mixing different types of antifreeze in the car, radweld or lack of coolant changes or a combination of all the above, there was evidence of radweld in and around the expansion bottle when I bought it.

 

Anyway, it's all back together now and everything still works (the amount of wiring I had to disconnect was quite daunting!) and it was very satisfying when I first started it and could feel heat coming through the vents before the temperature gauge had even started moving.  :)

 

Did you try to rinse it via hoses before taken apart? Just out of interest I would dip that matrix in for example citric acid bath to see if that would have soaked the gunk out.

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49 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:


How are the mirrors pal & have you had them sprayed? 

 

Hey Dan, Yeah I had them sprayed. It took longer than I expected because I wanted gloss black bases and colour coded caps. The mirrors are good and the quality feels good. Everything works as it should....foldings function, power adjustment, and heating. However, I think they are for LHD, well, the driver's side at least. It is adjusted fully to the right(outer position), yet the rear of the e39 still covers 1/4 of the mirror. Not a massive issue for me as I look over my shoulder anyways before merging/changing lanes/pulling out. I have no problem with the passenger side.

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1 hour ago, Clavurion said:

 

Did you try to rinse it via hoses before taken apart? Just out of interest I would dip that matrix in for example citric acid bath to see if that would have soaked the gunk out.

 

 Yep, tried back flushing the matrix with cold water and hot water (several times!) as well as putting a few different brands of radiator flush through it and whilst this did improve things the heaters still never got that hot.

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10 hours ago, DerekJr. said:

 

Hey Dan, Yeah I had them sprayed. It took longer than I expected because I wanted gloss black bases and colour coded caps. The mirrors are good and the quality feels good. Everything works as it should....foldings function, power adjustment, and heating. However, I think they are for LHD, well, the driver's side at least. It is adjusted fully to the right(outer position), yet the rear of the e39 still covers 1/4 of the mirror. Not a massive issue for me as I look over my shoulder anyways before merging/changing lanes/pulling out. I have no problem with the passenger side.

 

Thanks for that

 

They said to me when I questioned re them that they were for RHD cars! So not too impressed with that. But at their price, it's not too big an issue

 

More so as there's a set of OEM M5 powerfold mirrors on FB currently for £475 :lol: Everyone likes a tryer! 

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16 hours ago, NWJW said:

 As long as I've had my car I've had a problem with the heaters in that they've only blown lukewarm at best, with the drivers side always blowing colder than the passenger side, I've tried everything to sort the issue without success so far and was left with the worst case scenario; The heater matrix.....

 

 ..... So I've spent the last few days swapping it out and all I can say is NEVER AGAIN!!

 

 My interior went from looking like this; 

 

003

 

To this.......

 

002

 

And at one point my kitchen looked this;

 

001

 

Out of curiosity I cut the old matrix open and it was definitely blocked; 

 

004

 

 I'm not sure if it's been caused by someone mixing different types of antifreeze in the car, radweld or lack of coolant changes or a combination of all the above, there was evidence of radweld in and around the expansion bottle when I bought it.

 

Anyway, it's all back together now and everything still works (the amount of wiring I had to disconnect was quite daunting!) and it was very satisfying when I first started it and could feel heat coming through the vents before the temperature gauge had even started moving.  :)

 

Is that the only way you can replace it? Whole dash out and console out? Not just the top of the dash?

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42 minutes ago, Piper said:

 

Is that the only way you can replace it? Whole dash out and console out? Not just the top of the dash?

 

 The heater matrix is buried right at the bottom of the heater box so there's absolutely no way of accessing it from above, however, if you remove the centre console and lower half of the dash (which has to be removed anyway if you want to take the dash top out) there's a little access panel on the side of the heater box in the drivers side footwell which allows access to one side of the matrix, it looks like (in theory!) that if you then undid the pipes running from the bulkhead to the other side of the matrix in the passenger footwell that you could then slide the matrix out of the heater box.

 However, and this is where the fun began, one of the three pipes going into the matrix on my car was absolutely stuck fast which required removal and stripping of the heater box so that I could remove the matrix with the offending pipe still attached and work on freeing it with much better access. In the end I had the old matrix in the kitchen sink and alternated between pouring boiling water and very cold water over the stuck union which eventually freed it off, it doesn't help that the pipes between the bulkhead and matrix are made of very flimsy aluminium and any twisting and turning on the matrix to try and free it was just bending the pipes.

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16 hours ago, DerekJr. said:

1) Finally got around to fitting my M5 style power-folding mirrors.

2) While the door cards were out during doing the above, I replaced some of the plastic clips to eliminate some of the rattles I heard from the door going over bumps.

2) Test fitted my AC Schnitzer 3 piece boot spoiler. Now I need to paint it before fitting it. 

Sounds interesting Derek - some pics when you're done? 

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Alternator back in place and running, took less than hour with all covers and undertray refitted, so quite simple job. I didn't remove fan either, more than plenty space to get belt back on pulleys on m57 engine. 

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