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stevewilley

What did you do to your E39 today ?

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Used it for the kiln dried birch logs run; so it was absolutely filthy outside (we get our wood from a local farm) and the interior was full of sawdust, again :lol: 

 

So:

 

Interior - Hoovered inside within an inch of its life and a light dusting of Chemical Guys Citrus interior spray: https://www.chemicalguysuk.co.uk/shop/interior-trim/air-fresheners-and-odor-eliminators-interior-trim/chemical-guys-air23216zesty-lemon-lime-air-freshener-odor-eliminator-16-oz/

Exterior - power washed everywhere inc. wheel arches and under the sills (full of cow shit) :lol:, snowfoamed  (using Chemical Guys Watermelon snowfoam: https://www.chemicalguysuk.co.uk/shop/exterior/soaps-car-wash-products/chemical-guys-cws208-watermelon-snow-foam-auto-wash-cleanser-1-gal/ ) and left that to dwell for a good 10mins and then power washer rinsed again, alloys cleaned with the Chemical Guys alloy wheel brush and rinsed.

 

All exterior glass towel dried and the rest of the car hasn't been dried. It's going to lash it down here all weekend, so no point in doing a full in-depth clean as it'll be filthy again after a few miles :mad::roll: 

 

Rear number plate light bulbs swapped for standard Osram festoon bulbs; the LED ones are useless and keep failing... Front fog light bulbs changed for Osram HB4 Nightbreaker bulbs; main beam bulbs changed for Osram Nightbreaker H7s

 

All done :) 

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Made a start on my wheel refurb this week, with the spare as a trial effort. Just using Halfords rattle cans, silver colour is BMW Titan silver.  Came out better than I thought it would, given the shape of the wheel makes it hard to get paint and especially lacquer into the recesses without overloading the higher points.  

20191123_115557.jpg.62cd3c4a403843866477cf79ffa622ea.jpg

Good enough to carry on and do the rest of the wheels myself, although I'll probably use generic silver wheel paint such as Hi-Cote rather than Halfords as it's a quarter of the cost. Toying with the idea of leaving the backs just lacquered grey rather than silver too.

While the spare was out I repainted the wheel well; it had obviously had water in at some point in the past so a wire brush down to remove surface rust and loose paint, followed by a couple of coats of grey Hammerite had it looking like this:

20191123_115628.jpg.d9f190158d749ea75c4f2b6502416ac4.jpg

20191123_115748.jpg.bacd316d27682f0c75a5423e55df2ba7.jpg

Now looking at new centre caps for the wheels but can't seem to find any exactly the same; RealOEM gives the original part number but that's superceded now and only comes up with 'flat' centres rather than the originals with the lip all round the edge:

20191123_120032.jpg.0c7c4ac100cabd38574e6374460991ab.jpg

Any idea if you can still get these or do the newer ones look OK?

I might play with getting the old centres out and painting these and getting a new vinyl logo to put in instead.

Anyway it's all progress and tinkering about in the garage, which beats Strictly or the Jungle.  Going to start refurbing the wheel bolts this week as they are very scruffy. Need to get the rocker cover gasket done too.

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3 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Made a start on my wheel refurb this week, with the spare as a trial effort. Just using Halfords rattle cans, silver colour is BMW Titan silver.  Came out better than I thought it would, given the shape of the wheel makes it hard to get paint and especially lacquer into the recesses without overloading the higher points.  

20191123_115557.jpg.62cd3c4a403843866477cf79ffa622ea.jpg

Good enough to carry on and do the rest of the wheels myself, although I'll probably use generic silver wheel paint such as Hi-Cote rather than Halfords as it's a quarter of the cost. Toying with the idea of leaving the backs just lacquered grey rather than silver too.

While the spare was out I repainted the wheel well; it had obviously had water in at some point in the past so a wire brush down to remove surface rust and loose paint, followed by a couple of coats of grey Hammerite had it looking like this:

20191123_115628.jpg.d9f190158d749ea75c4f2b6502416ac4.jpg

20191123_115748.jpg.bacd316d27682f0c75a5423e55df2ba7.jpg

Now looking at new centre caps for the wheels but can't seem to find any exactly the same; RealOEM gives the original part number but that's superceded now and only comes up with 'flat' centres rather than the originals with the lip all round the edge:

20191123_120032.jpg.0c7c4ac100cabd38574e6374460991ab.jpg

Any idea if you can still get these or do the newer ones look OK?

I might play with getting the old centres out and painting these and getting a new vinyl logo to put in instead.

Anyway it's all progress and tinkering about in the garage, which beats Strictly or the Jungle.  Going to start refurbing the wheel bolts this week as they are very scruffy. Need to get the rocker cover gasket done too.

 

wheel badges? still available. have a set that i can post if you're interested.

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4 hours ago, NuckingFuts said:

 

wheel badges? still available. have a set that i can post if you're interested.

Are they new and the same as my old ones?  If so, yes, how much do you want for them?

Thanks

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2 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Are they new and the same as my old ones?  If so, yes, how much do you want for them?

Thanks


yep, I’ll ok you a photo in the morning. They’re available brand new from bmw, I got mine from someone who bought them from bmw a while back but went for some black ones instead. 
they’re oem, and we’re intended for my 65’s above but I need the *small* funds for other bits. 
 

£15 posted. 

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18 minutes ago, NuckingFuts said:


yep, I’ll ok you a photo in the morning. They’re available brand new from bmw, I got mine from someone who bought them from bmw a while back but went for some black ones instead. 
they’re oem, and we’re intended for my 65’s above but I need the *small* funds for other bits. 
 

£15 posted. 

Brilliant thanks Deepan

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The exhaust sounds awful, so it's booked in for it to be looked at tomorrow. It appears to be either one of the manifolds or one of the downpipe connections (only one would appear to be blowing as it sounds like an angry 3 cylinder - i.e. shit!) 

 

My working hypothesis is that it is presumably downstream of the cats as I haven't had any rough running, EML, or codes generated, which I would have thought I would have if it was one of the manifolds? I also have a slight rattle on acceleration which I presume is a loose bracket or shield, and hopefully not the innards of a cat disintegrating.

 

Fingers crossed it's something simple.... After buying another house, and putting a clutch and DMF in my fiancee's mini countryman, it would be preferable if it was something simple (read cheap!)!!!

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My previously mentioned track rod ends were changed this morning and then the tracking checked by the lazer Hunter alignment system. I found my nearest Hunter tracking station using the alignmycar website and the garage was walking distance to me. The garage was brilliant and the great thing about using the Hunter system is that it includes all the details of even the rarest cars; my E39 Alpina B10 V8 Touring is one of just 12 UK cars and is on there.

 

So no ball joint rattles now, and still driving straight and true - happy days.

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Did a drift / car control tuition day yesterday so my E39 has a better chance of staying the right shape when it gets slippery out there. Huge fun!

Where and what was it? I've looked at drift days but you don't actually get much seat time.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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On 18/11/2019 at 06:36, Loadmaster said:

Looks neat Derek.

 

Your bonnet grilles, they look different. What are they?

 

Thanks!

 

They are @MStyle double slant grilles (similar to new M grilles). However, I'm thinking of installing some facelift OEM grille but not sure yet. 

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10 hours ago, duncan-uk said:


Where and what was it? I've looked at drift days but you don't actually get much seat time.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is usually the problem with events run by track-based businesses, however I did a half day's tuition at Birmingham Wheels Raceway organised by an M3 specialist dealer who also does drift tuition. Was a nice informal day with about two hours of seat time with the instructor in their stripped and caged E39 M5 plus as much time as I wanted/dared in my 325i. He takes the approach that seat time is the only way to crack it and I must say it took me the whole day to get out of long ingrained instincts to correct the slide. It is a delicate balancing act. I got a hell of a lot more out of it than just getting to grips with starting to drift. Just having a safe space to be able to push a car through its limits without fear of trouble / damage was priceless.

 

To get that much time they run it as an open day for a small number of enthusiasts and do the tuition in the safe area while others take to the oval. I also got a lot of passenger time in the M5 and a race prepared E36 with 570 HP at the wheels. Doing 360 spins at speed felt almost safe in the very competent hands of the instructor. I'm not the best passenger but I really enjoyed it all, and met some really nice people.

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Had to wash the car in the rain at the end of a long day; some shite-hawks (seagulls) in Godalming of all places decided to party over my car and covered it in their acidic crap. Hopefully it's all off now.

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18 minutes ago, sharkfan said:

Had to wash the car in the rain at the end of a long day; some shite-hawks (seagulls) in Godalming of all places decided to party over my car and covered it in their acidic crap. Hopefully it's all off now.

Bastards do that to my boat too!

shame is: you’re not allowed to shoot ‘em!

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Shite-hawks...

 

We used to have a test kit for measuring water content in an hydraulic fluid sample.

 

We had a chemical (calcium hydride IIRC) which was mixed with a given fluid sample size.  Placed inside a pressure vessel with a pressure gauge, shaken vigorously such that the water would react with the chemical to produce hydrogen and the % water content produce a corresponding pressure value on the gauge.

 

The fun part was if you had a high water content sample you would get one hell of a pressure.  The guidance was to conduct this test on the upper deck not below decks.

 

The test kit was locally known as "The Bomb".

 

Anyway, apparently there was a lesser known use for the test kit to deal with shite-hawks.  This was to put some of the chemical into some bread and feed it to the shite-hawks, who subsequently could not burp or fart fast enough to relieve the resultant pressure build up created when the laced bread hit their digestive system  :shock:

 

Never seen this done myself,  just heard it through the grapevine.

 

Regards,

 

Mick

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Replaced the Chinese chrome finish rad grilles with 2nd hand genuine M5 ones from eBay.

Received by various couriers a new Hella headlight cover, a pair of hd front drop links, oe rear drop links, front and rear e39 Sport Poly bushes and new viscous fan, all to be fitted by my guy next week.

a longish list of bits still to order including brakes, springs and shocks, various engine breathing in and out bits.

 

on Tuesday it goes and has a new Blaupunkt double din unit with Bluetooth and streaming through steering wheel controls on my new M Sport steering wheel and wiring fitted for my TomTom.

Edited by Ocallen

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9 hours ago, Ordnator said:

Shite-hawks...

 

We used to have a test kit for measuring water content in an hydraulic fluid sample.

 

We had a chemical (calcium hydride IIRC) which was mixed with a given fluid sample size.  Placed inside a pressure vessel with a pressure gauge, shaken vigorously such that the water would react with the chemical to produce hydrogen and the % water content produce a corresponding pressure value on the gauge.

 

The fun part was if you had a high water content sample you would get one hell of a pressure.  The guidance was to conduct this test on the upper deck not below decks.

 

The test kit was locally known as "The Bomb".

 

Anyway, apparently there was a lesser known use for the test kit to deal with shite-hawks.  This was to put some of the chemical into some bread and feed it to the shite-hawks, who subsequently could not burp or fart fast enough to relieve the resultant pressure build up created when the laced bread hit their digestive system  :shock:

 

Never seen this done myself,  just heard it through the grapevine.

 

Regards,

 

Mick

Brilliant!

ill investigate that one!!

 

cheers

 

Robert

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Well bugger.

 

Little Miss Sharkfan went to open the front passenger window to be met with failure. The motor could be heard running but no movement. So off with the doorcard, peel back the vapour barrier and I could see the window clamps move up and down, not connected to the window glass. 

 

Easy-peasy I thought, a little jiggery-pokery to get the clamp screw in the 'window' and attach front and back clamp back to the window glass, using the old marks on the glass as where there were and so where they should go back.

 

Brilliant I though, except the window only goes down two thirds of the way, and no more. It goes up and down freely, it has even responded to the one-touch reset but two thirds down is as far as it goes.

 

Before boring you all with this I did have a good search through past posts but could only find solutions for no movement at all and a thread where wires had been crossed preventing the one-touch operation. Any quick suggestions before I have to start a thread and take everything apart again in the cold?

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You could try in 'initialisation' procedure, but it seems to assume you can fully open the window.

 

Initialization is performed on the power window switch of the relevant door.
Requirements for correct initialization:
• Initialization with engine running
• Convertible top, doors and windows closed

Initialization comprises:
• Erasure of initialization
• Reinitialization

An initialization must be performed:
• In the event of malfunctions, e.g. no one-touch control function, no opening or if available no comfort function is possible
• After the power window drive has been replaced
• After work is carried out on the power window mechanism
• After a power supply interruption, e.g. disconnection of the battery or disconnection of the power supply to the door
• After the door window glass has been removed and installed or replaced
• After adjustment work on the door window glass
• After adjustment work on the convertible top
• After replacement of seals

Erasure of initialization:
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate power window switch in "Open" position four times within 10 seconds

This erases initialization of the power window, anti-trapping protection and toll function are inactive.
Check whether one-touch control (toll) function is inactive, otherwise repeat procedure.

Reinitialization:
Avoid a break between the two steps!
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer

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This is the problem, the window won't open fully now.

 

I've just checked the TIS and I seem have the correct 10mm and 5.4mm alignment dimensions when the window is open 10mm. 

 

The only other thing I did was take off the speaker box to fix the securing hole at one end of it.

 

Like I said it intiates and will go up and down in one-touch, it just thinks fully down is only two thirds down.

 

Edit: I will try that 'Erasure of initialization' tomorrow and then see what happens.

 

Thanks Richard.

 

2nd Edit: just found this...

 

https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/116119-elec-window-will-not-fully-lower-after-door-was-removed/

Edited by sharkfan

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Worth checking that the cable is the right side of the guide then, it doesn't take long to get the card off.

 

The other possibility is that the mechanism is worn to the extent that the cable is jamming, but that's probably a new regulator job.

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4 hours ago, sharkfan said:

It was working perfectly until the window slipped out of the clamps this morning. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

 

My previous one did that, window had frozen in situ and I'd accidentally caught the switch.. 

 

Door card off jobby to sort, took 10mins.. Gave the runners a squirt too for peace of mind 

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