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bluejmc2005

Noticed today 2.0 98 e39 temp gauge went to red...

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then corrected itself - it's always just sat in the middle before now. it's done about 84k miles and has had a new water pump and thermostat about 8 months ago. No wearning lights came on, i just noticed it was high, is this normal? does not seem to have lost any collant but its obviously very hot right now.. any advice appreciated!

 

Jason

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The gauge is buffered so it will sit in the middle over a fairly wide range of temperatures.

 

I think it's a cause for concern and suggest you unlock the OBC and monitor the readings and see what the real temperatures are.

 

I think a normal temp of 80-105 would be considered normal although perhaps others could monitor theirs to see what normal looks like,

 

I do know that any serious overheating can kill the M54 engine, not sure about your M52.

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then corrected itself - it's always just sat in the middle before now. it's done about 84k miles and has had a new water pump and thermostat about 8 months ago. No wearning lights came on, i just noticed it was high, is this normal? does not seem to have lost any collant but its obviously very hot right now.. any advice appreciated!

 

Jason

Were you sitting in traffic or stop starting? Can easily happen and is normal in this case

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Were you sitting in traffic or stop starting? Can easily happen and is normal in this case

It is not normal on any E39 for the gauge to read past 12 o clock position for any reason. Even sat in traffic in 40 degree heat. The middle position deals with a range of temperatures, if it moves past half way your engine is too hot and the car shouldn't be driven. Easy to cook the engine and blow the head gasket... which isn't easy to repair on these cars, and often not a permanent fix. You'd potentially be looking at a new engine...

Edited by 2002-E39

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I did a flush of the cooling system - advised to on another forum - got rid of all the air, and at the mo (fingers crossed) it seems OK. just water in it at present, but once I know its sorted I'll do it again with coolant. Thanks for the replies

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I have had a nightmare today - bear in mind I am a complete mechanical novice, I teach R.E for crying out load!

Anyway here's the story. As I said before, i thought I had fixed the car. Took to to work, no problems.Today, I decided to take my wife and kids to town to buy some winter jackets. Within about a mile of the trip the car made a loud bang. Oh no i thought. What was it? well - when i bought the car (there is a thread here) it was evident the rad. shroud had been damaged. the previous owner told me he leaned on it and snapped it, and had it glued back together as a new one was a lot of money. never been an issue. Except now. I opened the bonnet, and the shroud had broken off (I assume the ehat from the overheat weakened it) and smashed into the cooling fan. the cooling fan blades were all smashed to piece, broken off. The radiator back part (with the small metel links/vents? - the bit facing the fan that broke) had taken a few battle wounds but no leaking etc that i could see. I gathered all of the broken bits, and decided to drive home. by the time I got home (1 mile) the car had overheated (as no fan)

I realised i could unbolt the fan, and buy a new one. I ordered a new one (well - they gave me the wrong one first, so I had to go back and get the correct one), took the old one off (cutting my arms and hands up pretty bad as it was very sternly on) and put the new one on. I then let it run, took her for a drive and overheated again. I figure the fact it overheated before means that air could of got into the system again? I waited by the road for an hour, drove her home, let her cool for a while and have just spent the last 2 hours gouing through the bleed situation again. I think i got it right, the coolant (water) is a little higher than i'd like but i wanted to do up the bleed screws quickly once they were showing a good flow of water. there was quite a lot of bubbles on the top of the expansion tank, and once that showed pure water i did it up. One or two small ones followed from the pipe bleed screw, once that was clear running water i did it up. I revved a bit, let it hit temperature - warm/hot air coming through the vents and not overheating. sat running for 15 minutes like this, unlock computer said 98.

My plan is to now let it cool down completely, and then in 90 minutes or so go for a drive and hope it does not overheat. I will check the water level first, and if its too high still I will use a straw and get rid of some as you said overfilling is an issue. Obviously if it has reduced a great deal i assume I have a leak? how much should one exxpect it to reduce ones cold? if its below the line, can i simply put more water in while cold until it gets to the line?

I am supposed to be driving 200 miles to my parents tomorrow with my daughter, so fingers crossed this works. if it does not - I give up, and I will assume the knocks that the radiator took have caused a problem. It's hard to tell if any water is leaking because its obviously leaking from the bleed plugs. i marked where the coolant was when it was hot a few minutes ago

I have attached some pics for those interested, The shroud has had it and will need replacing but i assume if allas well its OK to drive still.

thanks all

Jason

post-47521-0-40154900-1382810379_thumb.j

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post-47521-0-68851000-1382810399_thumb.j

post-47521-0-44224400-1382810406_thumb.j

post-47521-0-49634000-1382810428_thumb.j

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I had that issue once,turned out to be a partial blockage in the cooling system stopping the radiator from

doing its job properly.After flushing with a hose and a good clean,it solved the problem,although i may have

been lucky.

Good luck.

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Just took it out - overheated again. :-( Got to about 106/7 then 109/10 then seemed to reduce to 102 ish, then it rose and was at 122 in no time. I stopped at that point. No obvious leaks, water not rising to the top, the bleed screws suck and are in bad shape but no sign of a leak there (coudl that cause an overheat) so I'm really not sure. I'll have to take my wife's focus tomorrow and think again when back, any advice would be greatly appreciated. The air in the cabin was warm at first, but never got to "hot" like it was when i was in the bleed process. Gutted.

 

I am a novice, I have tried and I have failed. I may have even made things worse. i guess it either go to a garage and let them have a look, or sell it as is to someone whom has the time, patience and expertise to sort it.

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What worries me is your talk of water, assume you're talking about coolant? If you are talking about water, I'm hoping its deionised water not just water out of the tap.

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You said in your first post that the water-pump had been replaced. My question is, why? I ask because my lad had a '97 528 and the water-pump failed. It had a plastic impellor and the blades all sheared off and blocked the water passages. If yours suffered a similar fate it is possible that some debris is causing a blockage somewhere. Can you back flush the system from as many points as possible to clear any suspected blockage or have a garage check it over? If you have 'cooked' the engine, you will be very fortunate not to need a new one.

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Whatever this issue is,

 

* I very much doubt it has anything to do with the fan shroud itself.

* An E39 should NEVER go above middle of temp gauge. If it does, you have a real problem needing urgent attention. A single overheat can kill these engines.

* Your water pump should be considered suspect.

* You should never really use plain water in these engines - get some proper coolant in there as soon as you can.

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Hi,

 

just using plain water to see if it works, if it does ill replace with coolant straight away

 

pump was replaced in June because it was whining, elected to change thermo at same time

 

it has overheated but it has never "got" to the red i have stopped it straight away. Though I fear the worse now that something serious has been done.

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Viscous coupling? If it's knackered enough to take out your fan and shroud id replace it before your new fan explodes.

Edited by Idiot

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I figured I could do no harm trying to cold bleed.
I think the blades that came off have damaged the radiator as there appears to be a leak when I have tried to bleed the system, from the bottom left. I am not a mechanic so i have no intention of trying to do much else – Im a teacher lol – but its clear that the radiator will need to be repaired or replaced and thats beyond my expertise :-(
 

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Viscous coupling? If it's knackered enough to take out your fan and shroud id replace it before your new fan explodes.

 

 

no it wasnt the coupling, it was the shroud falling into the blades due to the glue the previous owner used failing

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Well for the fan to come into contact with the shroud would indicate that there's something wrong initially and the fact it's happened again indicates that the problem hasn't been fixed, suprised you e still got a top rad hose looking at the state of your fan, have you tested the viscous coupling? Rad is easy enough to change, if some chump with no education on minimum wage can do it, anyone can.

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apparantly it broke initally because he leaned on it - I believed him (perhaps stupidly!)

 

Radiator is leaking on the bottom left, I cant see where as its inside so that def needs changing. A new one appears to be about £70 on ebay which isnt as bad as I feared. I could buy one and try to fit it myself, or buy one and pay a garage to change it for me (2 hours labour perhaps?) but my worry is that other damage has been done to the engine because it overheated previously

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Get a sniffer test before spending too much money. The cracked shroud woul indicate to me knackered coupling, and or knackered engine mount.

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yeah good shout. tbh I am tempted to flog it as it is, be completely honest and take the hit got to stiill be wiorth a few quid to something cosmetically it in great shape. Ill then save up and buy what i really wanted - a 523i or 525i

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OK I have just had a friend who knows a bit more than me come and have a little look. He is no expert, but has successfully diagnose and fixed a lot more stuff than me!

 

We bleed the system from cold and the car was fine reaching operating temp of aboput 97 degrees after 15 mins with occassional 3000 rpm. The heaters blew nice and cold. If we then revved any more to try and test it, it would rise and not return. he said he thinks that as well as a radiator leak, the thermostat is notm functioning correct as the bottom hose was cold until we revved to get the engine to 102/3 when it became warm - nowhere near as hot as the top hose. he suggest this may be the cause of the original problem. i didnt think it could be because the thermostat was changed so recently, but i guess it could be bad luck. he said the thermostat should open between 79-92 degrees and then the bottom hose will be as hot or nearly as hot as the top one, does this sound correect?

 

if so, and assuming the sniff test comes back OK, could a new radiator and thermostat fix the problem do people think? he also mentioned something called K-Seal and said if i just change the thermo i could try that to repair the radiator leaks?

 

as always, any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated

 

Jason

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I don't think you will need to use the K-seal, just change the thermostat and rad, + expansion tank, also I never assume new parts are working, (ie, thermostat).

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so if I buy a new thermostat, a used but working radiator (money is an issue) and a used but ok expansion tank you think there is a reasonable chance it could fix it? it's all a balancing act at the moment between trying to fix it and not wanting to spend more and more and end up giving in anyway. The time it will take me to learn how to fix it might be an issue too, how many hours labour do you think a garage could reasonably charge? thanks matey

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