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Check your scuttle drains!

Scuttle Drain Check  

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  1. 1. After checking it, was your drain blocked?



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Just done mine on driver side. There was about 2 inches of murky water sitting. I couldn’t even see the grommet it was that murky. Felt about and pushed through followed by a gush of water from underneath the car. Thanks for the heads up

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Did my annual check yesterday. Quite a lot of leaves around the filters. Driver side dry and this time, I decided to pop the grommet... Then I read gas could get into the cabin catching up with this thread??? How is that possible?

 

Moved to passenger side and as previous years, struggles to see anything but looks pretty dry. Is the only way to get to that one from the front wheel? Will have a go at it.

Edited by reggie59

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On 15/04/2018 at 12:37 PM, reggie59 said:

 

Moved to passenger side and as previous years, struggles to see anything but looks pretty dry. 

I could see nothing on passenger side on my last check so I taped some kitchen roll to a long screwdriver and prodded around. Came out dry, but I'd be interested in how you access the grommet on passenger side too.

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2 hours ago, pidgeonpost said:

I could see nothing on passenger side on my last check so I taped some kitchen roll to a long screwdriver and prodded around. Came out dry, but I'd be interested in how you access the grommet on passenger side too.

By removing part of the wheel arch liner to get at it from underneath.

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Decided to change my pollen filters so decided to check the scuttle drains too. 

 

Passenger side: ECU in the way so fed a piece of coat hanger into this area. No sign of liquid when pulled out. Obviously couldn't see whether the drain plug was blocked. 

 

Drivers side: No water present although drain plug was fully clogged. Decided to try and rod away but didn't get anywhere. Managed to pull the drain plug out, gave it a clean out and then naturally struggled to return it to position. Absolutely wasn't going in but the problem appeared to be the 'flap' constantly getting jammed. Decided to 'modify' it by deliberately pulling the 'flap' off and it then finally returned to position with relative ease. Considering some have alluded to removing the drain  plug completely I'd suggest returning it without the flap will not cause a single problem. 

 

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The flap/valve is designed to stop contaminated air from the engine bay being pulled into the scuttle area and then into the cabin. That’s why it is present.

 

A variation of this design is common place on most cars since the late 90s.

 

You should have a sensor in the engine bay (on the side of the block I think) that looks for the presence of contaminated (combusted) air. It then activates the recirculating air function in the cabin. You need to arm this with the first press of the recirc button. It’s sensible to have this armed if you’ve removed the scuttle drain valves.

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Cheers. I have this set on 'A' the vast majority of the time. In fact I don't think its ever been off of this. 

 

PS

 

Great username by the way. Was gutted to find a once solid L1011 turn has been replaced by a 737-800. I believe there was an A310 in between. This on the Gatwick - Halifax flight via Air Transat.

 

Apologies to everyone else for the aero-waffle!

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Air Transat used the TriStar?

 

Ironically I’m 737NG now as a daily. Unfortunately not on the line but as a simulator instructor. The el-ten is a throwback from RAF.

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Hi all, my first post here but thought I'd register to say thanks for the tip. I checked my E60 2004 today and indeed it had at least 2 inches of water level. Cleared it all out and removed the scuttle drain. Releaved! 

 

Sadly the rubber scuttle fell inside the car rather than out, hopefully it doesn't cause any blockage issues now it's lost underneath!! 

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33 minutes ago, Abzman said:

Hi all, my first post here but thought I'd register to say thanks for the tip. I checked my E60 2004 today and indeed it had at least 2 inches of water level. Cleared it all out and removed the scuttle drain. Releaved! 

 

Sadly the rubber scuttle fell inside the car rather than out, hopefully it doesn't cause any blockage issues now it's lost underneath!! 

It's hiding behind the wheel arch liner m8.

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again, thanks from me, only had car 7 days and decided to check - about 2-3 inches of water in it!!

popped gromet out. tried doing the ECU side but could nt work out how to remove (or id I dare), so left that.

Must have been about 1-2 pints of water sat in there!!

 

Thanks

 

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19 minutes ago, Jay70 said:

again, thanks from me, only had car 7 days and decided to check - about 2-3 inches of water in it!!

popped gromet out. tried doing the ECU side but could nt work out how to remove (or id I dare), so left that.

Must have been about 1-2 pints of water sat in there!!

 

Thanks

 

You have to remove part of the wheel arch liner to get to it.

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Newbie here, to the E60/61 scene. Had E39's for a loooooong time.

Had my E61 530d for two months now, and after the first week of ownership I did the full service on it. I was absolutely gobsmacked to find that my OS was full of water. After much draining with hose pipe, I shoved the largest screwdriver through the grommet and it fell through. I feel I got about 5 litres out of it. Too nervous after reading this thread now to check the NS one, but I know I should.

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I check mine about once a year, clean out all the leaves and stuff. The nearside one is tricky as you can't see into it very well but I wrap a was of paper towel around the end of a screwdriver to check for moisture. No good if it's just rained or you've just washed it though! :lol:

Also have a read of the post from L1011 on 30th May.

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I finally got around to checking and removing the nearside drain after finding the offside drain blocked and flooded a few months ago. 

 

I just wanted to add a few comments as it doesn't sound like many people have tackled the box of electronics on the nearside, so this is what i found. I should also mention that removing the ECU is also described in the Haynes manual but it has so little detail it is pretty useless. Anyway:

 

The black box with the serious looking warnings on it is actually just a lid to a white plastic box underneath. If you undo the screws you get access to the various looms, modules and relays which are contained within. With a bit of work most of this will disconnect from each other and the ECU can be disconnected completely and removed. You also need to remove some of the relay holders from the white box so you can pull the looms out of the way. 

 

Once the box is empty you can see a drain in the bottom, it's an odd rubber grommit with a plastic marble/float in it. I think the idea is it might prevent water ingress if the water level around rises? not sure, I pulled it out anyway. (This might not have been the best idea as water is very unlikely to enter this box from the top due to the tight fitting lid) Where I got stuck was trying to remove this white plastic box to get clear access to the drain underneath. It seems to connect through to the bulkhead and no matter how I pulled on it I couldn't get it to budge. However, without it's lid and internal bobbins it is actually quite flexible so I could bend it up out of the way to get a clear view of the drain plug. It was then easy to poke the grommit through. I had hoped to get long nose pliers to it and pull it as I had done on the offside but I couldn't reach. 

 

TL;DR: So essentially, even if you remove the ECU you still can't get easy access to the drain, so just do as everyone else on here as described and just poke around until it pops out! 

 

Hopefully this saves someone else the effort of trying to 'do it properly' :rolleyes:

 

cheers

Mark

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5 minutes ago, v8shinprint said:

I finally got around to checking and removing the nearside drain after finding the offside drain blocked and flooded a few months ago. 

 

I just wanted to add a few comments as it doesn't sound like many people have tackled the box of electronics on the nearside, so this is what i found. I should also mention that removing the ECU is also described in the Haynes manual but it has so little detail it is pretty useless. Anyway:

 

The black box with the serious looking warnings on it is actually just a lid to a white plastic box underneath. If you undo the screws you get access to the various looms, modules and relays which are contained within. With a bit of work most of this will disconnect from each other and the ECU can be disconnected completely and removed. You also need to remove some of the relay holders from the white box so you can pull the looms out of the way. 

 

Once the box is empty you can see a drain in the bottom, it's an odd rubber grommit with a plastic marble/float in it. I think the idea is it might prevent water ingress if the water level around rises? not sure, I pulled it out anyway. (This might not have been the best idea as water is very unlikely to enter this box from the top due to the tight fitting lid) Where I got stuck was trying to remove this white plastic box to get clear access to the drain underneath. It seems to connect through to the bulkhead and no matter how I pulled on it I couldn't get it to budge. However, without it's lid and internal bobbins it is actually quite flexible so I could bend it up out of the way to get a clear view of the drain plug. It was then easy to poke the grommit through. I had hoped to get long nose pliers to it and pull it as I had done on the offside but I couldn't reach. 

 

TL;DR: So essentially, even if you remove the ECU you still can't get easy access to the drain, so just do as everyone else on here as described and just poke around until it pops out! 

 

Hopefully this saves someone else the effort of trying to 'do it properly' :rolleyes:

 

cheers

Mark

I went in from the wheel arch, much easier :)

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I check mine about twice a year but never seem to have a problem. 

 

If it hasn’t already been mentioned, and apologies for going off topic slightly, another place to check for leaf debris is between the radiators! I recently changed my water pump and thermostat so had the top cover of the radiators off for better access. I couldn’t believe the amount of leaf litter caught between the air-con rad and the main radiator!

 

How the engine was still being adequately cooled I’ll never be able to fathom, but the cooling fan always seemed to come on from a hot start. 

 

After clearing the debris (that’s a task in itself) I don’t notice the cooling fan turning on any more. 

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So just an update from me, i took off the filters and on the left side where the brake cylinder is there was about a 2 inch pool of water which wasn't far off from the grommet that the electric wires go through so cleared it out! A problem i didnt know the car had till i read this thread to thanks to the OP. 

You can see the leaves floating like boats. 

 

IMG_20190622_135759.jpg

Edited by fizz
more info

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