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Thanks for the comments and for taking time to read guys.

I don't like rushing things!! However, I'm getting the itch to drive it more and more every day, can't wait now :)

I've just finished today's work!

I'll update tomorrow...

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This is an awesome variety of work, just about everything in/on the car, salutes galore, particularly like the bonnet. Prays E34 M5 will look and be 75% as good as this.

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Thanks urquattro, there's certainly been a variety of jobs!

I'm sure the e34 M5 will come up nicely. You can be as fussy as you like and it's nice to know you've done your best when you look at it at the end. I'm looking forwards to follow its progress and see the conclusion :)

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I had a good day yesterday (Saturday). However, with all this talk of replacing brake lines, before I go on about what I did to the car, I thought it would be nice to show how the flare is formed, so I took some pictures of the passenger side replacement pipe as I made it:

Here's the bare pipe, just cut to length and de-burred:


To form the flare, which is the shape that allows the pipe so seal perfectly with the 'other part,' it must be pressed with a specially shaped die.

The pipe is fitted into the tool (mines a Sykes Pickavant) and held tightly in position in the clamping dies, with the end of the pipe flush with the end of the dies:


Here is a picture of the forming die, at the end of a 'press' that is fitted to the other part of the tool:


This is fitted such that the tip aligns with the pipe, here it is in position, ready to be pressed:


Here is a very similar picture, but now the forming die has been pressed into the end of the pipe, notice the clean, exposed metal (on the right) showing that the tip has extended:


Removing the shaping die reveals the formed flare, still in the clamping dies:


Pipe and finished flare removed from tool:


Pipe with flare and flaring 'nut' showing how they work together:


That's the first flare done. It's exactly the same for the second flare, but you must remember to add the flaring nuts before forming the second flare, as it's impossible to do so afterwards :)

Here is the pipe with one flare compared to the pipe I removed from the car. This still has the flaring nut on it at the moment (I cut the pipe to get this nut later):


After chopping off the end of the old pipe to get the flaring nut (nothing wrong with it, so I'll stick with the genuine one!), I slid the nut onto the new pipe and formed a second flare. Then I went and bent and shaped it until it was pretty close to the original pipe.

Here is a picture of the old and new pipe next to each other together with the bending pliers I used:


That is it, one replacement pipe made and ready to be fitted to the car :)

Back to what I did to the car itself now:

Having had the difficulties with the metal brake pipe on the driver's side, I was expecting similar problems on the passenger side, but things worked out much better than anticipated, the pipe shape was simpler and routing it was a much easier task.

I had found where the passenger (left) side metal pipe joined to the union, it is behind the auxiliary coolant pump. Having disconnected the two electrical connections, this lifted out easily enough and could be pushed gently down to have reasonable access to the union.

It was duly split.

This picture shows the union location having removed the old steel pipe:


In the wheel arch, I had to again snap the pipe by the 'metal pipe to flexible pipe' union, it was a bit tougher this time, but it did break relatively easily, again I'm glad I have to do this.

This time I actually managed to open the flare nut by using a 6 point (or 6 faced) socket, I could fit it once the pipe was removed. It was very tight, but doing this was easier than messing around with the Dremel for half an hour (which in itself worked well on the other side).

With this open, I could get the retaining spring and remove the old flexible hose. A quick clean/de-rust of the area, some etching primer and top coat where needed to tidy it all up and then I could fit the new bits.

Here is the new pipe fitted to the union under the bonnet:


Here is the new pipe fitted and joined to a new flexible hose and my re-conditioned caliper:


This was then bled manually to get most of the air from the system.

After a quick cuppa I then decided to tackle the rear brakes. I hadn't had time when I changed over the rear shockabsorbers/springs a few days ago, so I went ahead with it now.

I wasn't actually too confident that the flaring nuts would open after my experience with the front end. However, the rear left one opened up after some cleaning up and a tight fitting spanner, it was very tight.

Once this was open, I cleaned up and painted around the area and the bare pipe itself, which was in surprisingly good condition, perfectly ok for now.

I could then fit the new flexible hose and again, my re-conditioned rear caliper.

I had also decided to change the flexible hoses that live under the bonnet and are just behind the ABS unit. These feed the rear brakes. So it was now time to remove the old one for the left hand side. This went quite straightforward, so not much to say about it. The left hand brake pipe uses M12 flare nuts and has a 17mm outer hex, right hand side pipe uses M10 and a 14mm hex iirc.

The rear left was then bled, again manually.

Having been lucky with the rear left, I thought I might as well try the rear right.

It took some time to open the flare nut but indeed, open it did! A close inspection of the steel pipe revealed that this side was also serviceable, so I could go ahead and fit the new flexible hose and re-conditioned caliper.

I did somehow manage to lose one of the big washers that hold the 'flexible to rigid pipe' union. I have no idea where it went, I spent about half an hour looking for the damned thing, but it never appeared, even after finishing and clearing up.

Anyway, after a while I decided it would be best to press on and I found a suitably large stainless washer with a hole about 0.5mm too small, easily bored larger with a file, so I ended up with a fresh stainless washer.

I still wish I could find the old one, if only to know where it got to!

I haven't got any pictures of the fresh rear flexible hoses, it was getting late and you know what they would look like!

Again the short flexible hose behind the ABS pump was changed over, here is a poor quality picture of the new ones (it was late by now):


Again it was manually bled.

This turned out to be a long day, these things have a habit of supposedly being relatively short jobs but end up taking hours, however, I'm very glad I've done this work as the important bits are now fresh.

In the coming days I will fully bleed the whole system using the laptop and a pressure bleeder, so all air should be purged at this time.

So, now the car has a full set of six new flexible hoses and all calipers have been painted and re-conditioned with new, genuine seals and new pistons up front; the rear pistons were like new and replacing them was not necessary. I also have new, rust free sections up front. I'll probably change the rear steel pipes over winter. They are ok for now, but I'd like to get them changed so that they have also been done. Rear subframe bushes may well be on the cards then as well so it would be timely to change the pipes.

Getting closer to finishing... :)

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Fresh update!


I had wanted to swap the brakes for known, good units and new flexible hoses to ensure that everything was as it should be.

However, I felt that the braking, even with minimal bleeding, left a lot to be desired. It felt lazy, you pressed the pedal and it seemed to be slow in moving! The brakes worked well, but had a strange feel.

I had, ages ago, bought another servo, master cylinder and priming pump. I decided I'd fit the servo and master cylinder as they had come from a car with far fewer mileage than mine.

The swapping out of these parts isn't all that difficult really. I tried a bit of forward thinking and propped up the car on axle stands with the wheels removed, ready for the inevitable bleeding later on. I discovered that, since fitting the standard suspension, the car had to be raised a bit higher as the suspension could now drop further! An 'extra hole' on the axle stands was required!

I sucked out as much brake fluid as I could from the reservoir using a syringe and a thin pipe. However, if you ever do this yourself, be prepared for lots of fluid. It's nigh on impossible to fit a container and drain the fluid nicely, so I stuffed as many rags into the area as possible, even so, I spent some time washing the area's paint afterwards!

A difficult job is actually removing the reservoir itself. It has two 'pipes' that locate in rubbers in the master cylinder, which have a very tight grip. Also, the thing has a couple of clips that are pretty difficult to keep spread open and fighting with it to take it off, one clip will always latch back on! A couple of small screwdrivers in the clips ended that problem :) It was then possible to pull and tug on it until it gave up and came off.

Once the reservoir was off, it was possible to open the pipe unions. which all opened relatively easily (not corroded, thankfully).

I did remove the priming pump as well. I found it easiest by slackening off it's unions to be able to rotate the pipework out of the way. The rear rubber mountings just lift off with a bit of a tug, there's no need to take the bracket off the inner wing. With the priming pump off it was easy to manoeuvre the servo/mc out.

Inside the driver's footwell was easy, but the lower trim cover required removing. Only two 13mm nuts needed removing, quite easy with a combined long and short extensions. The whole assembly then came out with little trouble.

Here's a picture of the car minus the braking items!:


Here's a picture of the empty 'brake well' itself, showing the drain hole and slots that are famous for blocking, eventually causing the servo to fill with water with disastrous results for the braking and engine running (no assistance and sucking in water):


I gave the area a good clean, removing any debris and gave it a quick wax coating. Then the other servo and master cylinder went in. Another word of caution here, when re-fitting a servo on a RHD car, the pushrod eye that connects to the brake pedal fits into a gap in the brake pedal leg (there's a bit of the brake pedal either side of the eye, then the pin fits through the whole lot). During fitting, it's easy to get it in at a slight angle and the eye not to go into the leg. LHD cars seem different from the pictures I've seen. If you get it wrong you might have to remove the two nuts and push the servo out a bit to allow it the eye to fit in it's gap.

In no time at all everything was back together:


Following this I bled the brakes manually to begin with, then with a pressure bleeder and finally using the bleeder and the GT1 to be able to run the priming pump and cycle (+shake) the ABS unit valves. Apparently, it does this shaking to help shift stubborn air bubbles from the pipework.

I ran around the car quite a bit during this bleeding.

Finally everything was refitted and it all seems worth the hassle. I now have much sharper braking and a more willing, sharper pedal.

Yesterday, I adjusted the passenger (left) side trackrod (or tie rod) to bring the tracking to an acceptable level, good enough to drive around for a while before having it all done on a Hunter (hopefully).

Also, I took to the insides of an Alpine KCA-420i to mod it, so it can start a flat ipod (and charge it when it's not selected, if I've understood correctly).

The KCA-420i is an unit that can talk to ipods and translate the messages into 'Alpine' so that Alpine units can deal with them. The intravee 2 also does something similar, but it talks between the car's I-bus language and the Alpine 'language' (I think maybe 'protocol' should be used instead of language but it's easier to follow...)

So, to use an ipod you need to get an intravee (it's the best of it's type!) and also the KCA-420i. The KCA-420i has issues with a flat ipod so this mod should sort them out. It means cutting the connection in one place (what I've done) and then joining a couple of sections with a tiny wire (yet to do).

Here is a picture of the KCA-420i board, I've desaturated most of it and highlighted the area under consideration:


Here is a closeup of the 'disconnection,' basically drill the dot with a small drill until it cuts the track running to it. Damned difficult to see as it's so small! It's the larger of the dots. Again, highlighted to try to help:


Next up will be soldering in the remianing wire and fitting the intravee/KCA in the car. Then a couple of smaller jobs and it will be done (for now anyway)!

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Today's update, which isn't much really, I just finished the 'wire mod' to the KCA-420i.

I should mention that I'm just following RichardP's guide on upgrading the KCA, he posted the wire mod on the intravee forums here (you might need to log on to read):

KCA-420i wakeup mod

Thank you RihardP for this and all the help you've given me and everyone else.

So, today I cut up a small wire, stripped the ends, tinned the ends (then cut the ends down to size) and basically soldered it to the unit's board.

Here's a picture of the main board showing the area the wire goes:


Here's a zoomed in picture showing the wire I soldered in:


If you ever open one of these things up you will notice how small the components are, you need a steady hand to do this but it's not that hard really.

Unit was re-assembled and is now ready to be used. Another little job done :)

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Another little update.

Saturday I re-bled the front brakes. I like to let the brakes settle after doing some work and usually come back after a few days to give them another bleed. I'm convinced I got a bit more air out, especially the passenger caliper.

I also scraped the paint from freshly painted wheels, from the mounting bore. I had requested that the painters not clean the central mounting bore (the 74.1 bit) and leave a good layer of paint there. I could then work on that to ensure a nice snug fit on the hub register, which is what I did.

Finally, I tried to program the rain and light sensor to the car. I think I've been successful in coding the sensor using Program/SSS, but the new auto lights switch is not recognised by the LCM.

I say this as in INPA I can see that the sensor is working, giving all the relevant feedback and reacting to various light changes etc.

Checking the LCM and the switches I can see that it says that the auto light switch is not installed (so it must be an option, I hope so, as I don't want to have to buy another LCM).

Here is a picture I took showing this, it's next to the pointer (I went back and had another look yesterday, this picture is from yesterday):


I reckon I'll have to code the LCM for an auto light switch to get it to work. I have not however done any NCS expert coding so this will be an interesting learning experience.

If anyone has any experience in doing what I want, please let me know.

I'll also have to install NCSe, the version of INPA used didn't have it included, hadn't realised this until now. I have another disc and lead, but it'll have to be done from the start!

Sunday (yesterday) I had another look at the rain and light sensor and the auto lights switch, but went no further than the previous day, took a picture of the screen.

Decided I'd tackle polishing the bootlid again as it hadn't really come up properly the first time a week or two ago. This time I used a more aggressive pad and polish to start with, then a medium pad with a medium polish. Results are much better and I've yet to use the finishing polish and soft pad (might not even need to!). I have to say that I feel more confident with the rotary now as well, something sort-of clicked whilst I was doing it.

What this means is that I'll have to do the whole car now :)

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Update time!

Monday evening I sorted the computer to have NCS Expert and followed a little guide (Coding with NCS Expert, here's a link to a link:http://forum.bmw5.co...y-simple-guide/) to be able to read the LCM's configuration settings. Using NCSE isn't that bad once you know a few things.

I used NCS Dummy, here's one link: http://forums.bimmer...d.php?t=1553779

I had a good look through this thread, this helped sort out in my head what all the bits are etc and made sure I had NCS Dummy:


I read this thread/guide:


As you can see, there are many threads and guides about using this very powerful software. I managed to get some good information with these links, but you can keep on reading if you so desire!

Anyway, I read the contents of the LCM module and then used NCS Dummy to read through the trace file generated by NCSE from the read. I was hoping to find something that would mention a LightSwitch Module and say that it's not active.

Here is a shot of the result of reading the LCM unit.


Am I correct in taking that the LCM module is LCM.C18 ?

This (LCM.C18) is the setting I used in NCS Dummy to translate the trace file:


Nothing much stood out and I really wasn't ready to change things and write them back.

However, one item did seem to be related (in my mind) but I haven't got a clue if this is relevant.

It's the LICHTBEDIENEINHEIT option that was 'nicht_aktiv' :


Translating using google translate brings up 'Light Operating Unit.'

Does this refer to the light switch and would activating this allow the LCM to 'see' that I've now fitted an auto light unit.

If not, is there any way to get the LCM 3A to 'see' that there's an auto light switch present on the car? Using EDIBAS I can see that the Rain and Light sensor is giving out good data.

Otherwise I' will need to get a more recent LCM unit and re-code it.

After reading the unit and having a look, I called it a day.

Yesterday, I decided I'd tackle the bonnet. I hadn't done such a good job of polishing it as I had thought, especially after comparing it with the boot lid I'd just done! Remember that the bonnet has had a few things on it for some time, so it had deteriorated, but it wasn't fantastic to begin with.

Here's a photo :


I followed the same process, starting with a high cut paste and hard pad, then a medium paste and medium pad.

Again, results are quite impressive (to my eye). :)

I did that thing where you stick a stripe of masking tape on the panel and work up to it, is gives a good before and after view. I only did one half of the bonnet and I haven't done any final polishing with the fine polish and soft pad.

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It's about time for another update. Not done that much as I've been busy helping other people.

Thursday, the car went in for it's MOT and I'm glad to say it passed nicely :) Not much more to say other than it was nice to have a drive in it.

Friday and most of Saturday (21 hours in all) I was helping my brother wire up a heated front screen and heated seats in his Land Rover. It was a big dash out job, having to route cables from beneath driver's seat (where relays live) under car, past the transmission, up the bulkhead and then in to the car through the top of the bulkhead. He had bought a 'loom' for the heated screen, but the guy doesn't seem to add a wire for the switch, which needs routing exactly the same way! He also omitted a wire from the 'live' to the switch that activates the 'tell tale' light to show it's on. Everything was slow and awkward!

Here's a picture showing things in bits and my brother vacuuming the carpet underneath a a 'just removed' centre console box!:


Back to my car!

I had managed to get hold of a more recent LCM, mark 4 B from a forum member, thanks V8_warrior. He went out of his way to get it to me by Saturday and once I had a moment to spare I fitted it and attempted coding it.

Easily managed to code the chassis number and mileage thanks to PA Soft from Jimmy, but changing options using NCS Expert proved a bit more difficult, especially Saturday night.

At least it was in and everything bar the headlight levelling was working and I was getting 'Selflevel Susp Inact' on the dash, presumably due to the headlight levelling not playing ball. I was getting rather worried as I had tried to code various things using NCS Expert but nothing seemed to write. Frustrating and worrying, I thought the unit was locked or something!!!

Gave up and went looking for more info. Sunday morning wrote about it here, asking loads of questions:


Whilst writing I started to suspect that I wasn't using a 'writing enabled' profile for the NCSE program. Began to look into it and made up a different profile and downloaded Revtor's profile.

This thread was handy in creating a 'writing enabled' profile:


I still can't see how I missed downloading this profile, I just didn't spot it in the various guides (that's what I get for skimming through them!).

Thanks for the replies guys.

Spent Sunday afternoon helping a friend change the wheel bearing in his wife's car, a rather nice Peugeot 307cc. We tend to talk a lot and it was good to see him. Anyway, after sorting that, I had time to go play with more settings.

I was extremely glad when I changed the LWR setting to active, cycled the ignition switch then turned on the lights, the headlamps did their little self adjust dance and all seems well :) :) :)

Played around with a few more options, I wish I knew what most are, then re-fitted the LCM covering panels and finished with the job. :)

To finish off the evening I taped up the other side of the bonnet to be able to polish that soon. Went to bed!

Edited by ger

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Fresh update. Haven't had much time with the main computer, I've been reading up on the forum using the phone.

Monday, didn't do that much. Took a section of exhaust to my welder friend (more shall be revealed soon) to sort out and helped my dad's friend set his handbrake in his E90 3 series.

After being there I set about another little task...

I'd managed to buy a set of rear door blinds and cards, which were delivered last week. This has been something I've wanted on the car since I heard of them, but the kit is very difficult to get hold of!

Also, the leather pattern on the m5's doorcards is different to most so to keep the car looking as it should, the door card tops need removing, slight modification to the standard original and then the 'blind' door card top is fixed to the original card, giving a door card with the correct leather pattern and the correct top section for the blind.

Most of this is detailed very well by john_ate in his DIY thread here (BIG thanks to you Sir, this thread was very helpful):


I found some additional and handy pictures in this thread too:


So, Monday evening was spent attacking the door cards with various instruments to separate the tops from the fibrous backing. Screwdrivers, trim removers, bread knives, chisels, anything that was broad and flat was utilised (my wife wasn't in at the time so won't know about the kitchen utensils used :) ). Whatever is the glue BMW use (or BAYER, if they're the actual company who makes them), then it's good stuff, I wish I could get hold of it!

After some time, the tops were off the donor cards. I compared these with my original ones and this is when I realised that these were actually a very dark green colour and not black as I would have wanted :-(

Not to worry, I remembered that I had the black leather spray that I'd used for the seats a few weeks ago, so I was back to being happy :) This might mean that I'll have to take off the front cards and do their tops as well, so that they match, I'll have to see how they look and if it's worth the bother. It might also send me closer to getting them and the dash upper covered with leather 8) .

Tuesday, removed the tops off my original door cards, not much to say about this, virtually identical job to taking the others off yesterday!

However, and much more interestingly, a very light and rather long box arrived :) :


Opening the box revealed a lot of bubble wrap:


Opening this revealed.....:


a slimmbones/europeanupgrades polyurethane finned diffuser :) I really liked the carbon ones he did previously but I didn't like using double sided tape to hold it in place. This one has oem style tabs.

I soon cleaned it up and primed it using plastic primer:


Normally, the diffusers are body coloured but many change them to being black, a very subtle difference but looks good. I'll be doing this black as well, once the primer has dried.

That was is for Tuesday.

Wednesday, I managed to mess up the primer on the diffuser :x I tried to rub it down in a couple of places (with some 1500 paper) but I managed to nick a bit off. Trying to improve on this made worse again! So, a lot of re-doing was done in the day.

Whilst the diffuser dried, I decided to polish the second half of my bonnet. Did the first abrasive compound and pad, then medium past/pad.

I then decided I'd try the recently acquired DA polisher with a fine-cut paste and soft pad. Did the whole bonnet and the boot lid. To me, it looks rather good and I'm 'well pleased.' No doubt a pro would be able to take it apart but it's so much better than it used to be and I'm very glad about that.

I also went to collect the exhaust section from my friend who had welded up the cracks and added sleeves to allow for easy and hopefully a gas tight seal at the joints:


Another view, looking down into the pipe, showing the overlap and the weld:


I'll have to cut a bit onto the sleeves to allow for clamping, but they should seal much better than how it is now.

Came back to the diffuser in the evening and sprayed it with some gloss black, looked better :)


Finished the evening off by waxing the bonnet and boot lid. Massive improvement over how it used to be.

Here's a reasonable reflection in the bootlid (not a good image, taken with phone as I was leaving the garage):


Today (Thursday), not that much, busy with other things but I cleaned up the dark green door card tops and sprayed them with the black vinyl spray. One little bonus is that the bright 'chrome' trim took this stuff rather well and it gives a great high gloss shadowline finish!

Here's a comparison of the two colours, dark green is top and black sprayed is bottom:


Once the glossiness will settle, I think they'll blend rather well with the remainder of the trim. That's what I'm hoping for anyway...

I'll try to glue these to my original door cards tomorrow, so they can go into the car over the weekend :-D

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wow I thought I knew a bit about motors you guys R wizards keep it comin bro!! I'm learning all time ps you shoud l be called saint ger for your patience!!!!

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Time for another update...


Sprayed the other door top and touched up the first one whist I was at it.

Here's a picture of them on the highly technical item supporting device (aka 'the wall'!):


Whilst they were drying I went ahead and cut the card material off the door cards to make room for the blinds.

Here's the whole lot of them:


Finally, I swapped the good netting from a beat up blind I had to a good blind but with a torn net. I now know how to take these apart and how they work. I actually sorted one out, it was very stiff. A soft plastic sleeve inside, that covers the spring and stops it rubbing against the steel tube, had twisted up and the thin metal rod did not pass through it properly.

Now I have a good blind and a good net in one :)

Saturday, after going clamp hunting, I glued one of the door card tops to the card. Used plenty of clamps to hold it securely and left it overnight for the glue to set. I used almost a whole tube of it but it does work well and I've no intentions of taking these apart soon:


I used EvoStik's Serious Glue. I've had a good experience with this and it does work with dissimilar materials:


A little info for anyone doing this job. The metal clip at the far end of the door card is held on by two rivets. I found that these rivets actually protrude into the door card top, holding on to the plastic backing and bringing everything together. For this to work properly, slightly longer rivets would be better, I think mine were about 6mm long here (I used about 4mm long ones elsewhere).

Here's a picture of the clip with two long rivets and the shorter one for comparison:


Here's a picture showing the holes the rivets go into. I added a bit of the glue too, for good measure:


Sunday. I bonded the other door card top to its door card, in much the same way as previously done, using plenty of glue, clamps and letting it set overnight.

Whilst the glue was setting I lacquered the rear diffuser. It now looks quite good and I can't wait until it's fitted :)

Here it is lacquered:


Today (Monday) I plastic welded (another posh name for melting plastic with a soldering iron!) the plastic blind securing clips to the inside of the door cards, they felt pretty secure to me and I'm perfectly happy that they will hold the blinds in their place:


I also, finally, managed to fit the rear diffuser. Very happy with how it looks:


So, things are keeping on moving. Things left to do are getting fewer and fewer :)

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Thanks for the comments and that the blinds will arrive soon, but don't worry too much.

Another little update for today.

Sorted the blind hooks in the door frame and the door frame trim. This took ages to measure them up and cut carefully. All part of the fun!

All hooks are now fitted and ready to take the blinds. I hope I'll be able to fit these tomorrow :)

Here's a couple of pictures I took.

Main blind hooks, screw passes through the door trim and into plastic inserst fitted to the door frame:


Rear quarter blind hook. This is only attached to the plastic trim with a small screw from behind:


Bit more of an update tomorrow.

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Great Updates .. Do you have the names of the polishing compounds you used mate :)


I used Menzerna Power Gloss on a firm pad, then Menz Intensive Polish on a medium pad and finally Menz Final Finish on a soft pad on a da polisher.

I hadn't used the Power Gloss before this job and I'm very impressed with how quickly it removed the deep scratches, bringing back the correct colour.

The others only improved on that. I might have gotten away with just the intensive polish but the Final Finish really did get a nice gloss.

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Today's update...

Finished fitting the rear door side blinds :)

This had been a long time coming as sourcing the parts is very difficult.

One side went on without a hitch, but the driver's side decided not to be as straightforward, however, after some fighting I managed to get both sides on.

Here's a picture of the passenger side in nice sunlight! Note that the speaker grille has a small tweeter living behind it, wiring that in was fun :)


Later on in the evening I decided I'd get my cloth 'rear blind parcel shelf' looking a bit better. It is what I received with the rear blind and it's not in great condition, being all faded but otherwise it's in an useable condition.

I cleaned it up a bit, brushing it with a nail brush, then let rip with the vinyl paint. Result isn't bad and it will do until I can get hold of an alcantara covered one to match the interior.

Here's a 'before picture':


Here's the 'after picture':


I hope to fit the rear shelf and blind tomorrow, if all goes to plan :)

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