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john_ate

DIY Retrofit Rear Electric Blind

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This is the write-up of the rear electric blind retrofit I've completed recently:

Dismantled the rear seats, seatbelts, C-pillars and old shelf to install the actual blind and the new shelf (thanks to RichardP for the shelf off his M5!)

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Old shelf

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Removing the seats

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Parcel shelf out

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Old shelf and the new shelf with the blind cutout, which was given to me by RichardP.

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Plastic bits not included in the new shelf

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Plastic bits transferred on to the new shelf

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The electric blind fitted to the shelf

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Testing the operation of the electric blind. Works fine when connected directly to the battery.

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The new shelf with the electric blind goes on the car

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Note that these plastic tabs are used to hold and align the shelf to the metal part in the car

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Those plastic tabs goes into these metal brackets. I had some trouble aligning these earlier, and took me some time to realise their importance. If these weren't aligned properly the C-pillar wont go back in correctly.

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Everything put back together again nicely 8)

The two wires from the blind has also been routed to the centre console switch.

Okay, when I started reading up about this install, everybody tells me its quite a straightforward job, only requiring the two wires from the blind to the centre console switch. That is true if your car is already wired up for heated seats or the active seats. Mine doesnt, so the few important wires in the centre console plug is missing, along with missing Fuse 32 and Fuse 45 in the glovebox fuse compartment.

When I first started out this is how my centre console wiring plug looks like:

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Upon further investigation of BMW WDS (Wiring Diagram System) there are a few wires missing from the plug:

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And from the plug assignments schedule, I could determine that these pins are needed to complete the install:

Pin 7: A thick red wire from the centre console, to Fuse 32 in the glove fusebox and then run from F32 to under the driver's seat.

Pin 14 and 15: The two wires directly from the blind.

Pin 21: A wire from the centre console to a junction box behind the glovebox (not the fusebox)

Pin 23: A wire run from the centre console to Fuse 45 in the glovebox.

Okay to actually run the wires is a little bit difficult, this is my centre console plug before I started:

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And this is it when I was finished, a few good wires added to the plug:

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You can see that I added Fuse 32 and Fuse 45 which was originally an empty slot.

Now thats the easy part. To install the final wire, which is from Fuse 32 to a fusebox under the driver's seat, a lot of works needs to be done.

This is when i started

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Use a T50 Torx key to remove the screw holding the front seat.

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Then the screw in the back. A total of 4 torx screw needs to be removed.

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Move the seats so it can be taken out easily.

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Two more things to disconnect to remove the seats: The seatbelt tensioner and the occupancy sensor wire.

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Driver seat taken out

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The occupancy sensor wire and the seat belt tensioner below the seat position.

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Door sills and B-pillar cover removed to lift the carpet. (This is a picture of the other side, forgot to take the driver's side but its the same).

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Lifted the rear carpet in order to lift the front carpet.

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This is the junction box that I needed to access

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Connected the red wire and I'm done. All proper connectors are used which are taken from breaker's yard.

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Tested the blind button and it worked as anticipated. However I messed up by placing a pillow on the shelf and the blind stopped halfway. Now it remembers that location as its 'parked' location. Will fix this later when I have a bit more time.

Phew what a job! Look what a mess I made in the car that day! Note that I'm also fixing my vapor barrier which is why both the rear carpets are lifted.

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Now I have a working rear electric blind 8)

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Now I have to complete the side blinds, wait for a DIY retrofit write-up for that soon!

Edited by john_ate

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Nice write-up John!

I remember it being a swine to get power to F32.

The second time I had to get to the fusebox under the seat I found out that the rear carpet can stay in.

Might come in handy next time you're retrofitting something :wink:

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Yeah F32 is a total swine. I had to lift both side rear carpet anyway to dry it out since it recently started puddling, the vapor barrier failed.

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Good write up, kind of glad I listened to the seller of my car who had one and said why bother we don't get a lot of sun....

I was sorely tempted so as just to add another switch to the dashboard but seeing this I'm glad I passed up the offer!!

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Brilliant write up, i think you missed the hairy monster that sneaked into one of your pics though, full respect to you John for sticking at it, with so much stuff to take out just to fit a blind.

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Hi all, done this job quite a while ago, but never got round to actually coding it in.

Anybody knows what needs to be coded in for the rear blind?

Currently it works, but not at one touch. Sometimes it goes up all the way, some time it stopped halfway or quarter of the way. Will go up fully if I keep the button pressed though.

Anybody has any ideas?

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I was just thinking the same. I've not seen or heard anything regarding coding for the rear blind, I'm sure it's built in to the switch unit.

Have a look here:

http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/SCM0698FB386131002.htm

It says that the supply is terminated if there's too much strain.

I'd try to clean and lubricate the channel that the plastic 'T' shaped runners slide in. This is the upper bit that comes up.

Apparently these plastic T pieces break, might be worth checking as one might have a crack or bent or something, causing it to bind.

I bought some aluminium ones from mr_lee (iirc) on m5board, there are details (links, pictures amd linked how to's) about this in my car's thread (see link in sig), just in case they might come in handy.

You might be unlucky that the motor is dying or ghe lower linkages are stiff, but I've not heard anyone mention this.

Hth. Also, thanks for posting this how to, it came in handy when I fitted my blind :)

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No sticky mechanism on my blind, it moves smoothly. Fitted another for a mate and the same happens. Both blinds tested before fitting and was fine. The slider was also fine. Like I said if I keep the button pressed the blind moves up without any hindrance. So just live with it?

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I'd imagine it's binding somewhere. It should move freely and with just one press of the button.

If you have time, take it off and try it. I'd be inclined to lubricate every joint/pivot whilst it's off.

Also, might be worth checking or cleaning the electrical connections. If they're dirty somehow that would inteoduce resistance andprobably the same effect. Separate the plugs, give them a clean with contact cleaner and join them up again.

Do you have the oem connections or did you join wires with your own crimps? It might be worth it to give them another squeeze maybe?

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This is a terrific write up!

I myself have just bought a rear electric blind & control unit!

What I am wondering however...Is why...

Pin 21: A wire from the centre console to a junction box behind the glovebox (not the fusebox)

is this (Going to the intergrated electronic control unit) used?

It is a white/red/yellow coloured wire...Where is the control unit ( and is it terminated on terminal number 7)?

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This is a terrific write up!

I myself have just bought a rear electric blind & control unit!

What I am wondering however...Is why...

Pin 21: A wire from the centre console to a junction box behind the glovebox (not the fusebox)

is this (Going to the intergrated electronic control unit) used?

It is a white/red/yellow coloured wire...Where is the control unit ( and is it terminated on terminal number 7)?

That white/red/yellow is K-bus wire. All K-bus connectors are brought together on the same connecting terminal behind glove box.

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:idea: So! Therefore.. K-bus is a single-wire bus system, that sends & receives signals to the main ECU on the car.

The centre console switch unit will send a specially coded message to the ECU to say when the roller blind is operating! :-P

Edited by den1

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:idea: So! Therefore.. K-bus is a single-wire bus system, that sends & receives signals to the main ECU on the car.

The centre console switch unit will send a specially coded message to the ECU to say when the roller blind is operating! :-P

Yes, K-bus is a single wire communication bus. Actually rear blind doesn't need the K-bus. The blind gets direct voltage from the centre console switching console. For switching unit K-bus is mainly used for diagnostic purposes.

Here some bedtime reading about BMW bus systems. CLICK

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Looks like this guide will come in handy as I managed to get my hands on one of these electric rear blinds yesterday , all I need now is the time to get on and fit it .

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can I ask what connection you used to put in the brown block on connection 7 thick red and blue wire. as I cant seem to find what connection is used.

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can I ask what connection you used to put in the brown block on connection 7 thick red and blue wire. as I cant seem to find what connection is used.

Cant seem to find what part number they are, took me a while to get that connector too as most cars at breakers here don't have that. I have since found another one and kept as spare. Here's how it looks:

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