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waitee

Rebuilding my 540i... join me :) (Part2 ENGINE)

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Hey guys and gals,

 

following my initial thread on the car, where I rebuilt all the suspension components, brakes, basically any piece of rubber, the whole underside of the car and also all the interior work.

Finally the timing chain guides let loose. So part two, Im rebuilding the engine to finish of the project.Stay tuned :)

 

First a note: for anyone wondering my car was VERY WELL looked after, and apart from a little startup vanos rattle the engine was fine. Drove it home one day after a nice run, parked up, no issues. Started the car two days later and rattle straight away. What Ive learned is that this failure WILL happen to all cars and it can happen in an instant with no pre warning signs. As I was taking apart the engine, I have found out just how brittle the plastic have become.

 

here we go: day one car taken to my garage (not at home im afraid for me) and drop the sump to confirm the problem! 

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So onto the disassembly, its not really to hard to take the car apart, basic tools nothing fancy, my suggestion is to be very diligent with labelling and storing.

Fo me I labeled every electrical cable just to make reassembly easier, and took one component off at a time, cleaning the bolts/hardware and component as I went peeping it for re-assembly before moving on. I use freezer bags for the bolts writing on the bag where there from.

 

Time wise it took me 10-12hours to get to the final dismantling stage, 70% of that time was cleaning components and engine bay as I went! you can see the amount of crud on the 22year old engine.

Pics below of everything dismantled and cleaned rear water pipe and fitted with new gaskets, and new valley pan gasket also.

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13 minutes ago, waitee said:

COULD AN ADMIN PLEASE TELL ME WHY I CANT UPLOAD ANY MORE PICS? AND WHAT I CAN DO TO FIX THE ISSUE? seems ive reached a limit of some sort?

thanks

 

 

Use postimage pal; its free to sign up & use

 

https://postimages.org/

 

When you do upload; use the 2nd from bottom link 'Hotlink for forums' to post the image into the thread ;) 

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Aha! awesome, I feel like a computer hacking genius now.

 

So For the rebuilding, every o-ring, seal, gasket ... has been replaced and every part cleaned or replaced, every bolt given a bit of medium thread lock and torqued to correct spec. If your taking this on, cleaning will be the largest time consumer, for example the grime on the aircon pump and upper sump, before and after.

 

Getting the "Jesus" bolt off, crank bolt, was ok actually, I fabricated my own tool from a bot of L shaped steel, about 50cm long, and rested it under the left side of the car body frame next to where the alternator sits. with a piece of wood between the tool and the car. and then used a breaker bar with an extension pole.

It was harder to remove the balancer actually which was kinda stuck on there after you remove the 8 bolts. I used a large bearing puller on it, put allot of tension on it, so much that the thing looked like it was bending before it would break loose. didn't force the puller anymore and with the tension applied gave it a couple taps with a heavy mallet and a piece of wood, it came away with a large "PING"

Edited by waitee

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Day 3 of work now, (reassembly) started with the oil pump chain replacement, easy enough to remove, couple tries to get the tension just right. Locked the rockers in place and the flywheels in preparation for new timing chain. Fitted new oil separator, including O-rings and old bit fo rubber pipe going to the separator. fitted secondary timing chain tensioners, and 3x new guides for main chain. 

Rebuild the full intake with a couple of new gaskets where needed, I had already done most. And put together my new water pump and 88C thermostat ready to fit later.

 

Also new main crank seal and alternator gasket.

 

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Edited by waitee

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The injectors, I bought a Refurb kit online for £30 which comes with all 16 brings 8 retainers and 8 new filters. Dismantled the old ones which you can see where pretty poor condition. Filters specially. had them ultrasonic cleaned and tested, and then refitted new hardware my self after. so brand new basically.

 

Vanos Units im in the process of doing at the moment with the besian kit.

 

and another interesting point to note is to compare the back of the valves of a 22 year old car. look brand new. F%$K DIRECT INJECTION CARS :D

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So impressed, such dedication and the effort you have put in, many congratulations, enjoy your new BMW!

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I did a fair amount of research on the tools. As much as I could anyway. There’s an interesting video where someone tries a Chinese kit and then retimes with the GAS kit. And it’s a little off. Although a Chinese kit will work fine. As if it’s a tiny bit off it doesn’t really matter as computer will compensate. I’d still prefer to get it bang on. And the GAS kit is amazing. An improvement over OEM in terms of usability to. And not that expensive. I got lucky and received it in anodised blue to! 
I was thinking I might rent it out cheaply to the community when I’m done £50-70 quid to use. That kinda thing. :)

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Great work, I can also report a similar experience as my very well maintained B10 engine went from running perfectly to sounding like a bag of nails almost instantly. I don't have the skills you do and initially struggled to find a garage prepared to do the work until I got a recommendation for Lee Shannon in Surrey who has lots of experience with older BMWs - he did a fantastic job but the cost to get this done properly is £2k+ so not for the faint hearted.  

 

 

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all m62 derived engines will meet the same fate eventually. old plastics just become brittle. bringing the temperature down a little should help extend the life by a little more than 20 years I hope, also Febi say their chain guides are made with a different 'better' plastic, but don't know about that one haha.

2k is really good price to do the job! I did call around and prices where double that. Its allot of hours work, and at least 1k in parts.

Love a B10 man, well done for keeping it alive :)

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40 minutes ago, waitee said:

2k is really good price to do the job! I did call around and prices where double that. Its allot of hours work, and at least 1k in parts.


I think they quote those higher prices to try and put you off choosing them to do the work and most wouldn’t do it to the same standards as you!

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4 minutes ago, BarryM said:


I think they quote those higher prices to try and put you off choosing them to do the work and most wouldn’t do it to the same standards as you!

Thats always my main issue, working on your own car you will always do things better than someone else, small details, little parts, cleaning, all things someone working on the car would just ignore if they felt it would be ok without changing it.

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another day and a halfs work: new timing chains fitted, engine timed, turned a couple times and re-timed for good measure. covers back on, all new gaskets, o-rings, seals etc, everywhere. engine accessories fitted etc.. almost done now. just fuel injectors, electric connectors and sump to do. (next week)

Vanos units refurbished with Beisan kit.

 

Couple tips for anyone doing this in the future: take 20 min and make a decent holding tool for the crank bolt. and make sure its set up to compress and not tension the part you bolt it onto. in the picture for example its set up to retighten the bolt so when rotating clockwise the steer holder I made pushes inwards of the part its bolted to and not outward, if id connected it onto of the part it would most likely have broken. hope that makes sense. I did connect to the top part as I loosened the bolt.

Also if when timing you don't get continuity from the pins to on the vanos to ground don't worry about it. as long as you feel the stop on the piston when you turn counterclockwise thats all that matters.

 

Also when refitting the lower timing chain cover, bolt the steering pump and water heat exchanger to it first. Its a massive pain in the ass to fit after! ask me how I know. lol

 

Pretty straight forward to put back together, but I had all bolts ready to go nicely laid out for each part.

 

Enjoy pics :)

 

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Edited by waitee

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Definitely not planing on selling. Appreciating asset. 
 

after replacing the filters and o-ring on the injectors. I though I’d have them tested. 4/8 came back way bellow the flow rate they should be at. Anyway after a good ultrasonic clean they are now all back flowing how they should. Glad I had them properly checked anyway. Amazing how much the engine electrics compensate for these things without you even realising anything is wrong. 
 

Sump is on. Car of jacks and back on its wheels. Filled with oil and coolant. Stay tuned for startup next week…

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Nice work. I recently acquired a 735i that has the occasional startup rattle and vanos ticking when warm so I may be following in your footsteps at some point. I'd be interested to hear if your car still has the startup rattle once done. I've read various reports on this, some say it never goes away permanently. The chain on my car looks new so it may have been done already, I've not found a way to easily get a look at the guides yet.

 

 

 

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Hey Carlton. Chains don’t wear at all unlike modern ones made of chocolate. I still replaced them for good measure though. Guides will go at some point and the rattle is vanos. We’ll see if it’s gone soon enough. Vanos has been rebuilt so should be better than new with upgraded seals. 

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Just thought id share the results from the tests of the injectors, this is after I replaced the horrible rotten filters inside. After a couple of rounds of ultrasonic cleaning they are back to new,  even the ones is good condition benefited looking at the flows rates before and after. Easy way to get the HP back more fuel is more power, the engine will quickly relearn the adaptations

 

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Edited by waitee

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