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jag530isport

Like for like engine swap

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Hi guys,

 

I have an e46, I know it isn't a e39 but it has the same engine as the e39 530i engine.

 

Three of the 6 cylinders are showing no combustion so it's going to be safe to say the engine is gone. I'll know more on Tuesday once the garage has add a chance to look at it.

 

The car itself hasn't been a bad car so i'm thinking of doing a like for like swap but the engine i've found is one out of e39 as apose to an e46.

 

My car is a manual and the engine I have found is out of an auto. My question is would you guys consider doing an engine swap or would you cut your loses and what kind of cost would be involved with removing and fitting an engine?

 

Thanks

Jag

 

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Engine should fit fine, it's mostly all the same part numbers but you may need to transfer over some brackets as there were some differences from year to year. The exhaust manifolds and engine mounting brackets differ between E46 and E39.

 

Are you having this work done or is it DIY? I'd only have it done if it was a rust free car I was intending to keep for many years. It's a few days of work, add a bunch of gaskets and "might as well do this now" bits (I would absolutely replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket while the engine is out) and the bill will probably come close to or exceed the value of the car.

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Engine should fit fine, it's mostly all the same part numbers but you may need to transfer over some brackets as there were some differences from year to year. The exhaust manifolds and engine mounting brackets differ between E46 and E39.
 
Are you having this work done or is it DIY? I'd only have it done if it was a rust free car I was intending to keep for many years. It's a few days of work, add a bunch of gaskets and "might as well do this now" bits (I would absolutely replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket while the engine is out) and the bill will probably come close to or exceed the value of the car.
Quarry Motors have a bare engine with 91k from an 03 plate e39 my e46 is an 03 plate too. I've been the sumps are different so that will need swapping over. Going to get whatever gaskets swapped over while it's out and all other bits will be swapped from my existing engine.

Getting a BMW specialist to swap it over I wouldn't know where to begin.

The car is in good shape to be fair hence why I.want to save it.

Going to get the clutch replaced too. Is there anythimg else I should consider replacing?

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Thing is its worth nowt broken is it. If the car is otherwise good i'd just do it.
That's what I was thinking to be honest. It all depends on how good the replacement engine is I suppose.

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15 minutes ago, jag530isport said:

Quarry Motors have a bare engine with 91k from an 03 plate e39 my e46 is an 03 plate too. I've been the sumps are different so that will need swapping over. Going to get whatever gaskets swapped over while it's out and all other bits will be swapped from my existing engine.

Getting a BMW specialist to swap it over I wouldn't know where to begin.

The car is in good shape to be fair hence why I.want to save it.

Going to get the clutch replaced too. Is there anythimg else I should consider replacing?

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I don't know if they are common leak areas or not, but crankshaft seals might be considered for replacing, especially one at the back, while gearbox is off. Later it will be very labor involved job, compared to now, when engine is out.

 

Ideally try to find someone who can show engine still running, at least video to prove, or if seller is giving couple months warranty. That could be a good sign it's not rip off. There are few people parting out BMW's on Facebook, which are trusted sellers, might be worth asking. 

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When you say no combustion you mean no compression? It is strange that three have gone at the same time. I would expect two adjacent cylinders to show no compression if the head gasket between them has blown.

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8 hours ago, dmarkovina1 said:

When you say no combustion you mean no compression? It is strange that three have gone at the same time. I would expect two adjacent cylinders to show no compression if the head gasket between them has blown.

This happen to my mates car long years ago, only it's was e34, so M50 engine. Basically reason was broken camshaft, first three cylinders were running fine, last three didn't because camshaft was snapped in-between 3 and 4 cylinder and obviously didn't rotate, so valves didn't come open/were stuck open, depending on what position cam knuckles were stopped.

His guessing was that cylinder head has been overheated at some time in past, most likely was warped and skimmed to get it straight, it was making flat surface to go back together with block, but camshafts were under slight tension all time, causing one of them to snap on half. Sounds logical to me.

I'm not saying it the same case this time, but one of possibilities.

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When you say no combustion you mean no compression? It is strange that three have gone at the same time. I would expect two adjacent cylinders to show no compression if the head gasket between them has blown.
Yeah sorry no compression. If the head gasket has gone am I right in saying they can't be repaired?

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Head gasket can be replaced although at this point your mechanic really needs to identify the root problem first as that will determine the steps to take (and projected cost). 3 adjacent cylinders showing no compression might be broken camshaft, a sheared head bolt or foreign object damage (DISA valve intact?) but without more investigation it's really just guessing. Making an accurate diagnosis is key to fixing anything.

 

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This happen to my mates car long years ago, only it's was e34, so M50 engine. Basically reason was broken camshaft, first three cylinders were running fine, last three didn't because camshaft was snapped in-between 3 and 4 cylinder and obviously didn't rotate, so valves didn't come open/were stuck open, depending on what position cam knuckles were stopped.
His guessing was that cylinder head has been overheated at some time in past, most likely was warped and skimmed to get it straight, it was making flat surface to go back together with block, but camshafts were under slight tension all time, causing one of them to snap on half. Sounds logical to me.
I'm not saying it the same case this time, but one of possibilities.
Will find out more when the garage take the top off to have a look but either way it seems i'll be looking for a replacement engine.

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Head gasket can be replaced although at this point your mechanic really needs to identify the root problem first as that will determine the steps to take (and projected cost). 3 adjacent cylinders showing no compression might be broken camshaft, a sheared head bolt or foreign object damage (DISA valve intact?) but without more investigation it's really just guessing. Making an accurate diagnosis is key to fixing anything.
 
Yeah will find out more tomorrow to be honest when they start the a deeper investigation

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Just an update to this thread, looks like the car does need an engine so looking to get a replacement one from Quarry Motors.

I'm going to get the clutch changed because there will be no labour invloved, what gaskets would you guys recommend on changing and is there anything else I should renew on the replacement engine?

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Oil pan gasket and rear main are the ones you should do with the engine out because those are the ones that require a lot of labour with the engine installed. I would also recommend pulling the valve cover on any replacement engine before installing it just to see what it's like on the inside; replace valve cover gasket at the same time, common leak point. Compression test or borescope inspection of the cylinder walls is also smart to do, your mechanic can advise.

 

Oil filter housing gasket, oil separator drain line and vanos oil line are common leak points and would be smart to tackle but can also be done with engine installed without too much bother. Personally, I'd do those too, tackle all common leak points and clean the new engine thoroughly while it's out. It's much easier to spot and deal with minor leaks when it's not a big oily mess all over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Oil pan gasket and rear main are the ones you should do with the engine out because those are the ones that require a lot of labour with the engine installed. I would also recommend pulling the valve cover on any replacement engine before installing it just to see what it's like on the inside; replace valve cover gasket at the same time, common leak point. Compression test or borescope inspection of the cylinder walls is also smart to do, your mechanic can advise.
 
Oil filter housing gasket, oil separator drain line and vanos oil line are common leak points and would be smart to tackle but can also be done with engine installed without too much bother. Personally, I'd do those too, tackle all common leak points and clean the new engine thoroughly while it's out. It's much easier to spot and deal with minor leaks when it's not a big oily mess all over.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Cheers mate nice one really appreciate it

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So what's exactly wrong with old engine, or no one found/didn't look for actual cause for lost compression?
Looks like the timing has slipped according to the garage

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