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iReaper1157

Broke down. Stuck at a camp site.

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I’ve broke down. Yesterday I got a warning about a gear selector fault on the idrive which happened twice but cleared. Did a very short journey and the car sat at the caravan for the rest of the day and might. Loaded the car up today ready to leave site and it struggled to start and wouldn’t run longer than a few second. This repeated then I got a engine management light come on. Gutted. 

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Long shot: Battery issue showing up due to loading/unloading with the doors/boot open for long periods? I hold the center light button for 5 seconds to disable interior lights and when the boot is open I fool the lock mechanism to turn the boot lights off. Maybe this have softened the battery to cause spurious errors.

One good example when I would prefer low energy LEDs.

 

 

Edited by DarkHorse
to clarify

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2 hours ago, DarkHorse said:

Long shot: Battery issue showing up due to loading/unloading with the doors/boot open for long periods? I hold the center light button for 5 seconds to disable interior lights and when the boot is open I fool the lock mechanism to turn the boot lights off. Maybe this have softened the battery to cause spurious errors.

One good example when I would prefer low energy LEDs.

 

 

RAC came out. Battery was dead and now wouldn’t even crank. He jumped it and it came to life and was running as normal. Ran a full battery and charge diagnostics and said the battery was within normal parameters but only just. I opted for a new battery anyway because clearly I have money to burn and a so what attitude :cry: figured it would settle my mind. 
new battery is on and I’ve just arrived home after doing a 45 mile journey completely off motorway and have had no faults until I arrived at my destination. 
I removed all the stuff from my boot which was open for about 10 mins. Got in the car and got another increased battery discharge warning. Clocks all reset. 

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Second that - sounds like the alternator regulator. About £50-£60 for an OEM part and 15 mins to fit.

 

Confirm first by using the hidden menu to see the battery voltage. If it's jumping around say 12V to 15V then definitely the regulator pack (well actually the brushes in the pack).

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Cheers boys but it was checked and it was normal. Had a battery fitted and all seems ok. I don’t have to use my car for 2 weeks now because I’m working away and work have given me a hire car. So I’ll take that time to get it collected by the local BMW superman and see what he thinks when he gets it plugged in to hi software. Times like these I wish I lived closer to @GoNz0 because he’s the man when it comes to the software. 

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Was the new battery registered?

If not, would this cause the IBS to still see a duff battery until its registered possibly!

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31 minutes ago, AlTr said:

Was the new battery registered?

If not, would this cause the IBS to still see a duff battery until its registered possibly!

Ahhhhhhh yeah! Of course. The battery is different as well. It’s a higher amp battery. That makes sense. 

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Just in case that doesn't solve your issue...

I had numerous occasions where it would display a transmission fault when starting and went through a phase of putting it on Ctek overnight for a few nights. The fault went away for a while but after some short local trips it came back again.

£13 used IBS cable from an E90 and I've not had the problem again in 2 months.

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