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San75

McGard locking nut removal

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I have a McGard locking key that sheared inside the locking nut. 2 garages have tried hammering a removal tool with no luck. I also tried using a Dymomec forming key on another lug nut, then grinding the end another end to fit a standard socket. The lug nut does not budge and just cams out. A garage said they need to apply heat or do some welding but risk damaging the alloys. I want to try hammering a standard socket on the top. The locking nut head has a diameter of 20.3 mm. Any advice would be appreciated.

20210831_185210_resized.jpg

Edited by San75

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I’ve seen workshops welding on a nut and using that with a socket to get out a pickle. You might need an alloy refurbishment afterwards. And a new set of locking wheel bolts. 
 

Or workshops use an impact socket that has reverse threads on the inside on their biggest windy gun to bite into the bolt head and spin it off.
 

The head of that type bolts can come off an reveal a spline which might be easier to grip.

 

I’m not a fan of the flower head type of locking bolt, so I replaced them with a spline type. The splines have a better shape for transferring torque more reliably from the wrench to the bolt head.


That said a flower type of locking wheel bolt if torqued to the correct spec and used with the correct key and a decent wrench in the hands of someone who isn’t an ape should be a reliable enough fixing. 


 

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I was fortunate when an ape in a hurry in a tyre shop tried to remove one of my locking wheel bolts, mangling the key in the process so preventing me from removing any of my wheels. Not wanting to wait several weeks for a new key to arrive from Mcgard with the car in daily use I visited a BMW stealer who had a set of master keys and were able to find a match for mine. Fortunately they had a key in stock and relieved me of £25 in return for it. I removed the locking bolts and have done away with them altogether. They're more trouble than they're worth. Obviously your situation has gone beyond this solution though. Hope you get it sorted without too much collateral damage. 

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I can remove the sheared bit by drilling a hole and breaking it into 2 bits. That would not be a problem for me. The problem I have I am returning the car to the place when I purchased it next week to give them 1 chance to fix the issues with suspension, front brake and oxygen sensor before rejecting the car before 30 days are up. Their technicians are incompetent and I cannot trust them to remove the locking nuts without causing damage to the alloys. They already replaced the oxygen sensor but replaced the wrong one! I did try BMW in Leicester that could not be bothered to try all the keys they had and fobbed me off by saying it's an aftermarket one. I read online that Mcgard make the locking nuts for BMWs so he should have tried them all. I will try BMW tomorrow in Birmingham, hopefully, I can get a key.

Edited by San75

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3 hours ago, San75 said:

I can remove the sheared bit by drilling a hole and breaking it into 2 bits. That would not be a problem for me. The problem I have I am returning the car to the place when I purchased it next week to give them 1 chance to fix the issues with suspension, front brake and oxygen sensor before rejecting the car before 30 days are up. Their technicians are incompetent and I cannot trust them to remove the locking nuts without causing damage to the alloys. They already replaced the oxygen sensor but replaced the wrong one! I did try BMW in Leicester that could not be bothered to try all the keys they had and fobbed me off by saying it's an aftermarket one. I read online that Mcgard make the locking nuts for BMWs so he should have tried them all. I will try BMW tomorrow in Birmingham, hopefully, I can get a key.


You are wasting your time finding a replacement locking wheel bolt socket to fit. The new one will just shear off as well as that bolt has been over tightened. Bashing a socket over the top won’t help as there is a slip ring as part of the bolt as further theft protection that just spins. 
 

This type of locking bolt is perfectly fine, IF, an impact wrench is NOT used to remove nor tighten it and it is only tightened to 140Nm. 
 

This is my story including details of who I used to remove it with NO damage to the wheel at all after the tyre shop that overtightened it tried to remove it using all the standard tools they use… Note that the tyre shop paid for the removal plus new wheel bolts all round plus new McGard/BMW locking bolts. McGard also sent me a new set for free after I sent them the damaged removed bolt. 

 

 

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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Thank you for the advice and link to the other thread. The locking nut I have is not one of the premium types McGard make with the spinning collar. I purchased a replacement set that looks identical apart from a different key pattern (see image). Anyway, the car dealer has booked the car in at BMW to fix the faults therefore I will no longer need to worry about the locking nut removal.

20210910_094114.jpg

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Happened to me as well. The problem with all the methods you have tried is that the spinning collar circumvents it.

 

I spent a few days removing the collar with a narrow and long cold chisel and then tried hammering on a smaller 12 point cheap socket. This works most of the time .

 

Mine was on very tight so i had to use an Irvine spiral extractor. My set was too small so I went to Indy that had a bigger set, they only charged me £10 and it took 10 mins but it did not work in isolation.

 

He had to get 2  hammers, one being a being a smaller ball pein style and the other a bigger mallet. Placing the ball pein on the lug and then whacking it full gorilla with the heavy mallet. He did this a good few times and it shocks the threads. No heat or lube.

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Wouldn't so much heavy hammering damage other components like the bearings, bushes and even steering rack? I have left the removal process to BMW at the end of the month. I'll ask how they are going to remove them when I drop of the car.

 

If I was going to attempt removal myself I would get some metal tubing that fits over the nut and apply some heat through it and then bang on a reverse thread extractor or Dynomec former.

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2 minutes ago, San75 said:

Wouldn't so much heavy hammering damage other components like the bearings, bushes and even steering rack? I have left the removal process to BMW at the end of the month. I'll ask how they are going to remove them when I drop of the car.

 

If I was going to attempt removal myself I would get some metal tubing that fits over the nut and apply some heat through it and then bang on a reverse thread extractor or Dynomec former.

Yeah it could damage other parts not least slipping and cracking the alloy. but I was close to dousing the car in petrol and setting it on fire:D. If I had a welder I would just spot weld the ring in place and the use a 12 point socket or Irvine extractor. 

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Had same happen beat 17mm socket over and removed using impact gun borrowed master set from BMW and removed other 3 lock nuts and fitted normal nuts 

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