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Nick E

Winter's coming...

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Any tips for underbody treatment for an E39 to prevent winter having a field day underneath?

I don't want to Waxoyl (or equivalent) it.

 

Cheers,

 

Nick 

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22 minutes ago, Nick E said:

Any tips for underbody treatment for an E39 to prevent winter having a field day underneath?

I don't want to Waxoyl (or equivalent) it.

 

Cheers,

 

Nick 

 

Look at my project pal; last few pages where I've used Lanoguard etc :) 

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23 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Look at my project pal; last few pages where I've used Lanoguard etc :) 

 

Cheers Dan. Sorry to read you're selling her.

 

Would you recommend this be done with the car up on a lift, or is it something that could be done on jacks and stands?

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8 minutes ago, Nick E said:

 

Cheers Dan. Sorry to read you're selling her.

 

Would you recommend this be done with the car up on a lift, or is it something that could be done on jacks and stands?

 

I did it on the drive with wheels off and car on axle stands pal; plenty of room to work and it allows you to give all those areas a decent clean and dry off before you apply the Lanoguard too :) 

 

Prep is key with this

 

I removed the wheels; removed the wheel arch liners. Gave all the areas a douse with ACP; scrubbed them, rinsed them (hose pipe not power washer) and then I dried the arches off as best as I could with a small electric fan heater that I kept changing the angles of, so it got into all the nooks & crannies etc

 

Laid down a large tarp to catch any over spray and drips and then applied the Lanoguard by spray. I covered everything inc the arch lips, that's essential.

 

I then removed all 4 jacking pads (bought new ones to replace them) and used the long lance that's provided in the kit to absolutely douse the inside of the sills. I did this with the rear end jacked up slightly and then vice-versa with the front end; so the Lanoguard had chance to coat the entire inner sill and run out. I taped up the jacking pad holes and then after a few days; removed the tape, wiped the excess off and fitted the jack pads

 

It's an easy job; took a day to do; but not a full day rolling around under the car; there are a lot of clips (IMO buy new ones off eBay as some will snap etc) and the arch liners can be brittle with age, so be careful when removing those :) 

 

Oh; your hands will smell like old sheep too; but you'll be waterproof for a good few days :lol::mrgreen:

 

Thanks re my car; it's not a desperate sell. I've a few parties interested in it, some coming to view it next week and if it sells then it sells, if it doesn't then I keep it and keep using it. But sometimes, the times right to sell, which I feel it is now ;) 

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Did some long overdue finishing off of the tailgate, boot lid, and rear arch yesterday, reprimed over some other parts of the sills and arch that been under Bilt Hamber 80 for months..

 

Underneath though, the sills look like they may need some work. Will take it to my local to see if it's just superficial, or needs proper going over.

Edited by Nick E

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9 hours ago, Nick E said:

Did some long overdue finishing off of the tailgate, boot lid, and rear arch yesterday, reprimed over some other parts of the sills and arch that been under Bilt Hamber 80 for months..

 

Underneath though, the sills look like they may need some work. Will take it to my local to see if it's just superficial, or needs proper going over.

Remember that primer isn't a paint, and most of them don't protect metal from moisture and rusting. You need some paint on top of primer, to protect metal.

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On 9/9/2021 at 7:40 PM, Ray112 said:

Remember that primer isn't a paint, and most of them don't protect metal from moisture and rusting. You need some paint on top of primer, to protect metal.

 

Oi' ain't finished yet.. :)

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I have recentlyremoved front seats and inspected the plugs/holes bellow the carpet. Every single one had a healthy onset of rust spreading from the hole. Filed, sanded, brushed the rust, liberally supplied phosphoric acid converter, brushed off the converted oxide, primed with epoxy primer, refitted the plugs and sealed the lot with a brush on seam sealer, liberally applied below and on top of the plug. To finish off I will now spray some paint over. Relatively easy job as you can do one side at the time. Just remove the front seat, pull off the B pillar and then lift the carpet halves and tie them to the other seat/gear stick with some rope so that it stays up. A point to note - from the underside all looked OK - just some light, barely visible surface rust on the plug. It was anything but as all the damage was inside, under the carpet. The picture attached was taken during the process - immediately after the rust converter was applied, still wet. The car has spent last 5 winters as a winter daily on some rather salty roads though. I have just had rocker panels replaced as the old ones were too rusty. The floor panel had a last minute save.20210910_015205.thumb.jpg.b0c4eb78d54dd6e822dc2443291564a8.jpg

 

Edited by dmarkovina1

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