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535i Andrew

F10 Jacking on rear differential DIY

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It's been discussed on here a few times so I thought a wee guide might help some others.

 

BMW state that it is is acceptable to jack the rear of the F10 via the main casing of the differential.  Note do not place the jack on the cover of the casing at the rear of the differential.

 

I had the need to get my car's backside in the air to do some work.  I cheated slightly as I had already driven the car up on to ramps first, thinking I could do what I wanted from ramps, but no, I needed the suspension to drop to its fully extended position.  Driving the car up on to ramps may be a requirement depending on how big/high your trolley jack is.  The combination of my MSport suspension and trolley jack means I do not need to do this but it does mean the car is already lifted up and less time is spent in the more dangerous lifting procedure.

 

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Car reversed up on to ramps which helped position the jack in the correct location on the differential.  Chock both sides of both front wheels.  Important safety bit that, as the car might roll in either direction as once the rear wheels leave the ground there is nothing to prevent the car moving as the handbrake and Park/in gear only acts on the wheels you are now lifting clear of the ground.

 

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Looking straight up at the differential, front of the car is at the bottom of the picture.  Notice the casting rib on the casing running from near enough the pinion shaft to the rear cover and a 'D' shape albeit backwards to the left of the rib.  Imagine a line drawn on the diff casing between the two drive shafts.  Where this intersects the casting rib is where you want to place the jack so its near enough cock on the centre of the diff.

 

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This is the rear cover of the casing which must not be used to jack the car.  Note the lower left had diff cover screw head has a threaded hole just to its right and slightly above, this is the location of a vibration damper on some diesel engine models, which may mean its not so obvious to see on your car if its a consumer of heavy oil.  Again the casting rib is obvious.

 

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I use a hockey puck to spread the load between the diff and my trolley jack head.  Nothing near the rear cover.

 

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From another angle.  Load is well away from the rear cover.

 

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Car now lowered on to axle stands

 

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which have a pad made from hockey pucks to get the load into the jacking point.

 

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Car back on all fours.  My jack can be positioned under the diff without having to drive the car up on to ramps.

 

IMG-9145.jpg

 

Imprint of the casting line and backwards 'D' shape that you can see in the earlier pictures confirming where the load is going.

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2 minutes ago, gbshahaq said:

super helpful - thanks! Would this be very similar for F11?

 

Yes, but you can also use the centre plate just behind the diff where the cross-braces meet if that works better for you. 

 

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Nice trolley jack. Looking to purchase one mainly for the front end. Would a £50 low profile one do the job?

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23 minutes ago, San75 said:

Would a £50 low profile one do the job?

 

Maybe but depends on how much quality you get for the £50. Also bear in mind if you want to lift the car on the front cross member rather than at each corner you'll need quite a long reach jack. The SGS one in the photo is just long enough to reach in and still allow you to pump the handle just enough to start lifting the car... I think I paid £140 for that one along with a pair of axle stands. The jack is very sturdy and easy to use and has paid for itself in money saved doing jobs at home.

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Second on the SGS one I have the same and it's a really nice quality bit of kit that you can have faith in when lifting the 5er.

Sent from my SM-G996B using Tapatalk

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On 31/08/2021 at 20:52, percha said:

 quality bit of kit that you can have faith in when lifting the 5er.

 

Amen to that.

 

On 31/08/2021 at 11:02, San75 said:

 Would a £50 low profile one do the job?

 

But I would have to ask what one have you seen at that price range?

 

Generally the jacks that are long enough and low enough to reach in under the car and are stable enough when lifting a full axle are well over £100, nearer £200.  The amount you can save in labour fee's will soon pay for a decent jack.  SGS are top notch stuff, you want to spend money on a jack as its a critical bit of kit and if it fails you'll damage your car. 

 

Obviously you never crawl under a car that's only supported on a jack.

 

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-58399026

 

 

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I looked further into trolley jack last night. A single piston one around £50, e.g. halfords won't do the job. It has to be 2 piston long reach and low profile. I'm going for the 3 ton SGS. I know it's £120, but I see that as less than 1% of the price I paid for the car. It makes sense and will sure be the safest and fastest way to jack up the car. I always place a axle standard or use ramps whenever I go under the car.

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Im still using a 40yr old snapon brand jack my dad bought when he had a garage. Never been serviced, has lifted lorry cabs far in excess of its lift limit of 2.5 tons (iirc) and is still going strong. Good tools last a lifetime.

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I’ve a Halfords jack from many years ago (maybe about 70-80s). Last time I swapped my wheels I couldn’t get the jack out from under  the front jacking point and had to lift the wheel again and let it down onto a block of wood. If you’re buying a jack it’s well worth checking its lowest height first!

 

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The 2.5 tonne jack is the same as that shown in my photo above. Unless you really need the extra .5 tonne capacity get that one. It'll comfortably lift an F11 at either end on the centre lifting points and will stand a better chance of fitting underneath the front than the 3 tonne version. Depending on how low your car sits you may still need to drive it up onto something to give you a little more space.  I made some DIY ramps from planks of scrap wood cut to varying lengths and screwed together. I drive the car onto these to add some clearance underneath.

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