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Munzy123

Lower control arms replacement.

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Whilst in for a brake bleed the local dealer advised there is some play in my lower rear control arm at the front right of the car (F11). 
 

They kindly quoted £643 to replace, which I kindly declined. 
 

I can get Meyle front AND rear arms for BOTH sides for £284. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-BMW-5-SERIES-F10-F11-2010-FRONT-AXLE-LOWER-LEFT-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-ARM-ARMS-/161588466496?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

I will get a well alignment done after but just wondering if anyone has a guide for the job? Can find lots for E60s and X5 but would like a F10/11 specific guide. 
 

 

Edited by Munzy123

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This guy is quite good, he’s in America and makes do with imperial sockets for undoing Torx bolts which makes me cringe a bit. 
 

 

 

 

Lemforder arms (oem) are about £75 each on Autodoc. 
 

There is no need to do a wheel alignment afterwards as there is no adjustment (cam washers etc) on the fixings for that arm. 
 

I’ve got a pair of tension arms waiting to go on mine. Lemforder £47 each from Autodoc. 
 

Ive done both arms on my E60 and imho the F10 doesn’t look any more complicated and certainly diy friendly. Bolts are a bit bigger and I think the torques might be higher but I’ve got a 1000mm long breaker bar to undo them. No impact tools should be used on the balljoints incase you damage the mating surface in the steering knuckle. 

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10 hours ago, Munzy123 said:

 

Mainly wanted to check to see if it was necessary to put the bushes underload before torqueing them up as I did in the E91.

 

 

Yeah you do,  means the car needs to be on its wheels and you under it to tighten them.  Not the most easiest of tasks.

 

IMG-5863.jpg

 

Trick is to not over tighten them first.  The lower strut to wishbone needs to be tightened to 90Nm then turned thru 180 deg.  I managed to tighten it to beyond 90Nm just doing the thing up by hand with my stock ratchet and ring spanner.

 

IMG-5851.jpg

 

As when I stuck my torque wrench on it, it already clicked at 90Nm.  Whoops.  I could only muster a further 90 deg turn on it when the weight of the car was on its wheels. It's tight enough for me and I'm happy with it.

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The tapers on the ball joints where the arms meet the hub, did they come out o.k. @Oldbilly ?  Folk on here have struggled with that.

 

I need to do my front bearings which means removing the front tension arm, I've bought new arms to go in as I've struggled getting them out (albeit on my E60) in one piece.

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3 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

The tapers on the ball joints where the arms meet the hub, did they come out o.k. @Oldbilly ?  Folk on here have struggled with that.

 

I need to do my front bearings which means removing the front tension arm, I've bought new arms to go in as I've struggled getting them out (albeit on my E60) in one piece.

As far I remember the joints are straight and not tapered, when undoing them they have to be held by an Allen key socket in the top of the ball joint so plenty of lubricant on the nut helps with the dirt and corrosion, I thought I would have trouble with the shock where it bolts onto the lower strut but it was quite easy just had to support it in the correct position, as said to pre torque is quite difficult if doing the work on a drive, I had the the loan of a ramp which made things much easier.

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