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AdamB

Hifi system professional

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Hi guys, any ideas what the differences between a standard stereo system and the ‘bmw hifi professional’ ? (Touring version?) - option “677”

 

how easy is the upgrade?

 

I’m pretty certain my touring is the lowest of the low (apart from professional nav), but I’m looking at a breaker which has the professional system and nav installed. I’m hoping it’s just a few bits to swap/plug in?

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667 Top Hifi comes with an amplifier and a subwoofer in left hand cubby in the boot for the touring (it's under the parcel shelf for sedans), as well as an extra mid range speaker in the front doors. There is also a small speaker added to the rear doors.

 

I''ve seen the subwoofer and it doesn't look particularly impressive, it's a pretty small driver in a plastic box. Bound to be better than standard which is very weak on bass indeed, but it doesn't look like it's going to be rattling any windows.

 

There should be dedicated wiring loom for the system that goes from the radio to all 4 doors as well as the amplifier. I imagine it's possible to retrofit if you get all the bits, although I'm not sure if it requires coding (it came with DSP I believe, which may need to be coded in the head unit) Get all speakers, they're different units from the base system.

 

TBH it looks like a lot of work to me, if you're just trying to get some bass there are far easier aftermarket solutions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you do have the base Business system then you don't have a separate amp and just 4 channels coming from the radio.  The harness splits the outputs inside the front door cards and somewhere at the rear, to give mid/bass and tweeters front and rear.  The tweeters are protected by a small in line capacitor, a very crude crossover.

 

The HiFi system has 10 discrete channels, Bass, Mid and Treble for the front and Mid/Bass and Treble for the rear.  The HiFi amp takes the speaker level output from the radio (so it can use the same head unit if required) and splits them into the various channels, consequently it uses an entirely different audio wiring loom.  Retrofitting is a nightmare and just not worth the hassle. 

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15 hours ago, AdamB said:

Still kinda gutted over this.

 

my old e39 had the hifi system (non dsp), and that was so much better than what’s in my new touring :???:

 

It's mostly the utter lack of bass that makes it sound thin. I had the Pioneer TS-WX210A active sub in my car for a while and it helped a ton, it fits in the tray above the battery so there is no loss of boot space as well as being invisible. I eventually built a 10" subwoofer box which fit bellow the rollup case against the back seat which gave more bass than any factory system ever will. No longer have that particular car but that box is still going strong in my E46.

 

 

 

 

 

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You can upgrade to it if you want to. I did it it years ago in my car which is a saloon model.

 

What you need:

* The right wiring loom from radio to amp to speakers. Or if you have satnav the radio/satnav/speaker loom. I spliced a "radio loom" into my navigation equipped car. Make sure the wires aren't cut at the door looms and are de pinned so they can go back into your car.

* The wiring looms or de pinned speaker wires in the doors.Front doors have three sets of speaker wires instead of just the one. Rear door has speaker wires instead of nothing

* Speakers incl enclosures and sub

* DSP Amplifier (note early amps like the philips won't work with the bm54 nav radio module)

* mounting stuff for the sub

* Mid panel with dsp button in non sat-nav car. Altough coding might do the job. I think the circuit boards inside are all the same. It might work, but not say DSP.

 

I think it worked without coding, but I coded it just the same.

 

I have also done this to a mate's touring which was a breeze because he bought all the stuff ready to be assembled (perfectly de-pinned and marked) from a guy who was breaking an e39 touring from the same build year.

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11 hours ago, Carlton said:

 

It's mostly the utter lack of bass that makes it sound thin. I had the Pioneer TS-WX210A active sub in my car for a while and it helped a ton, it fits in the tray above the battery so there is no loss of boot space as well as being invisible. I eventually built a 10" subwoofer box which fit bellow the rollup case against the back seat which gave more bass than any factory system ever will. No longer have that particular car but that box is still going strong in my E46.

 

 

 

 

 

 There are a couple of pump-up-the-Touring-subwoofer solutions on this thread...

 

https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/50910-bmw-e39-touring-stealth-mounted-subwoofer/?hl=%2Bwda69rc#entry704583

 

- I believe Dennis's car was a fairly low spec without DSP and NAV so he used the cubby on the left side of the boot to make a custom enclosure. My car had all the whistles and bells, NAV, DSP, you name it, it was fitted, but I still managed to squeeze a pair of 6x9's from a Kenwood add-on subwoofer system.

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On 7/1/2021 at 7:57 AM, Johan said:

You can upgrade to it if you want to. I did it it years ago in my car which is a saloon model.

 

What you need:

* The right wiring loom from radio to amp to speakers. Or if you have satnav the radio/satnav/speaker loom. I spliced a "radio loom" into my navigation equipped car. Make sure the wires aren't cut at the door looms and are de pinned so they can go back into your car.

* The wiring looms or de pinned speaker wires in the doors.Front doors have three sets of speaker wires instead of just the one. Rear door has speaker wires instead of nothing

* Speakers incl enclosures and sub

* DSP Amplifier (note early amps like the philips won't work with the bm54 nav radio module)

* mounting stuff for the sub

* Mid panel with dsp button in non sat-nav car. Altough coding might do the job. I think the circuit boards inside are all the same. It might work, but not say DSP.

 

I think it worked without coding, but I coded it just the same.

 

I have also done this to a mate's touring which was a breeze because he bought all the stuff ready to be assembled (perfectly de-pinned and marked) from a guy who was breaking an e39 touring from the same build year.

This is some really useful information!

 

Its just a shame it’s not a simple “plug and play”

 

I’ll certainly consider it, but it might be a bit beyond me, and probably as others are suggesting I’d be better off installing an aftermarket system. - probably a similar amount of effort for a lot more gain!

 

I’ll see what the guy says about the loom etc when he gets that far into breaking his. Is it easily identifiable / traceable? Is it tied into the rest of the vehicle loom or separate?

 

thanks

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It is a separate loom on my car it plugs into the main loom in the boot behind the sat nav unit.

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just the radio loom. sorry no pictures at the moment as the e39 is still at the painters.

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On 01/07/2021 at 18:51, sharkfan said:

 

- I believe Dennis's car was a fairly low spec without DSP and NAV so he used the cubby on the left side of the boot to make a custom enclosure. My car had all the whistles and bells, NAV, DSP, you name it, it was fitted, but I still managed to squeeze a pair of 6x9's from a Kenwood add-on subwoofer system.

 

Mine was less than 'fairly low spec' ! my car was 'no spec' !  Yes, given the 'right side cubby' in mine had a twin battery/split charger setup, there was no space there for the enclosure needed to produce the excellent sub bass that I wanted, so I had a custom one made up for the left hand cubby. I've since taken out the twin battery and have 2 custom enclosures, one being a shaped MDF type and the other a custom fibreglass one that still utilizes the OEM cubby cover and able to house a 10" driver. I'm debating on putting back the split charger/dual battery setup though !

 

 

On 02/07/2021 at 11:23, AdamB said:

as others are suggesting I’d be better off installing an aftermarket system. - probably a similar amount of effort for a lot more gain!

 

Definitely this is the best solution when all aspects are considered. I understand many owners 'need' for keeping it OEM, and perhaps support that option more if even as an OEM setup it sounded better, but the plain fact is that none of the OEM setups except for perhaps the M Audio sound anywhere half decent, especially to many more modern cars OEM sound systems in comparison. Some owners of course don't care about audio performance if they're just listening to the radio in the background etc, but for many others, having a good/decent level of audio performance is wanted and the OEM setups are lacking here.

 

If you do decide to stick with OEM, please photograph and document your installation/retrofit !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

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