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alexalex

E39 530D no crank no start.

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So the problem started randomly, i drove the car into garage and car sat for 2 days, battery cable off, and i went to change the aux fan at the front, and wanted to test it with inpa and it has no communiction with the car, can't access any modules. It worked before i could get to every module.( i fixed the under the drivers seat junction this can't be the problem). Now the car wont start, i have 12volt at every wire on the starter, if i put the screw driver to + terminal and small wire terminal, the car will start and run, but from the key it doesnt crank and start. It seems like its an EWS problem but i can't see EWS data because it wont connect to anymodules. At the EWS Pin 1 and 2, if i disconnect the EWS module, i have 9 volts at the pin 2, but if reconnect it, it has 0. Battery is Fully charged and tested with multible Good new batterys. i have 12 volts everywhere else but not at the EWS starter pin. Starter pin 1 has 0 volts on crank and 0 at pin 2. 

Inpa shows. Igniton on and battery on but when connecting to IKE/IKI it says command not accepted. Before no crank no start i could use PA-soft, INPA, Ista. but now no communication. Is the EWS failed that its not sending some relay or DME some signal to communicate.

 

E39 530D 1999/05 pre-fl

Edited by alexalex

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If you can start the engine by shorting the starter and the engine runs normally the EWS works as far as recognising the key. (DDE is given the permission for fuel injection.)

 

If there is no voltage on EWS pin 2 while turning ignition to start position this sounds like failed ignition switch. (9 V while module disconnected sounds like low amp floating voltage.)

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On 3/22/2021 at 11:03 PM, Clavurion said:

If you can start the engine by shorting the starter and the engine runs normally the EWS works as far as recognising the key. (DDE is given the permission for fuel injection.)

 

If there is no voltage on EWS pin 2 while turning ignition to start position this sounds like failed ignition switch. (9 V while module disconnected sounds like low amp floating voltage.)

I changed fused 15 and changed the igniton switch, but still no crank, im lost, dont know where to look or check. Can't diagnose too, it wont let me. It worked perfectly before i fixed the junction under drivers floor mat. (LHD)

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update: I found my fuse 114 under the passenger floormat is blown, wiring diagrams lead me to that. I put a new 50amp fuse in and i put the battery on the fuse just blow again, the fuse is for ignition switch and diagnostic port but it keeps blowing for some reason.

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Fuse F114 is mainly for starter activation (Terminal 50) via ignition switch and EWS module. On pre facelift models it also supplies diagnostic connector on engine bay.

 

What did you previously repair on left side junction?

 

Separate the lines leaving from F114 and measure which one of them is shorted.

 

image.png.674089f3aacd2c216ea91e2c2511c5db.png

 

image.png.c5095b01bbea5b81a39a06713cfdedf8.png

 

CV8NJoEQ

Edited by Clavurion

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Fuse 114 blows as soon as i plug my 20 pin adapter to diagnostics port. something is messed up, 1 time it melted cables in 20 pin adapter. weird. some wires are broken or something. Ill look into that, now i know why it keeps blowing. car starts with the cap on the obd port. everything works but something is shorted in the obd.

Edited by alexalex

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Yes the adapter went in wrong way that shorted it. the middle part that blocks it going in wrong way is worn and i must have put it in wrong way, now i checked the pins to line up correctly and the fuse aint blowing and can communicate with inpa. But now there is transmission fail safe mode on. electrical problems never end :D car goes to every gear but it wont show me any gear indicator on the dash. Inpa says Cannot communicate with EGS orsmth. lookin into it tomorrow.

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Okei looked at the codes. In gearbox it says Can timeout to dme. but it can be deleted but in dme it says something same but can not be deleted. but car starts.

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