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1 hour ago, FLX said:

Glad you got to the bottom of it! Epoxy would hold the lens well but getting a transparent one and doing it neatly will be the challenge. I'm not sure a silicone would work well as an adhesive. Also an issue my E46 had though it was quite obvious with all sorts of gunk building up behind the lens.

 

Might be worth getting one of the little dehumidifier bags if moisture is a concern, I got one from tesco that hides away under the seats.

Megabond do a clear two part epoxy resin, 

You'll need to completely remove the lens to do a good job.

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Or just buy a new rear light, I cracked mine on a tree last year and got a replacement for £35 on eBay. You will also need to replace the foam gasket.

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1 minute ago, dirtydirtydiesel said:

Megabond do a clear two part epoxy resin, 

You'll need to completely remove the lens to do a good job.

 

That's not a problem, the lens more or less fell off when I was trying to persuade some seek n seal into the offending gap. 

 

I've cleaned both parts up, removed as much of the old cement as possible and they're on the radiator drying, much to the chagrin of the missus.  I have some clear epoxy on order from Amazon which should be here tomorrow so with a bit of luck by the end of the week I'll have a functioning car again.  Oh, well, assuming the battery is ok :/

 

I've stuck a piece of an ASDA bag over the hole left by the missing light cluster with some butyl tape - hopefully that'll keep the water out until I can refit the light.

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Just now, edd_jedi said:

Or just buy a new rear light, I cracked mine on a tree last year and got a replacement for £35 on eBay. You will also need to replace the foam gasket.

 

This one is a replacement light from eBay!

 

The original light, ironically, lost its lens in high winds at the start of last year so I bought a replacement from eBay.  I don't know if a tail-light from an LCI model would fit or not, I think not, but even if it did the newest used part is going to be ten years old, or more.

 

If the LCI part won't fit then I'm looking at parts which are even older and which potentially have the same lens separation issue.

 

If epoxying the lens back on doesn't work I think I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new part.

 

Of course, if it does work, now that I've cleaned this one up the nearside will probably look tired by comparison so I might have to pull that one off and do the same :lol:

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Sounds like you were just unlucky, the used one I bought (pre-LCI) is fine, no leaks. A new one is about £200, you would have to buy 7 bad ones before it became a cheaper option!

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OK, this is getting weirder and weirder.

 

I have no conclusive proof that either battery is any good or that the battery sensor is causing either to fail.  I put the new charged battery back on the car and for a day it was fine, this morning it's completely dead again.  So similar pattern to the other battery!

 

Also, more strangeness has been occurring.  The alarm has been going off randomly.  It first started doing it in the daytime on Tuesday (with the old battery connected), so had to disconnect the battery to make it stop.  Then it did it again this morning and once again I had to crawl through the car to open the rear hatch so I could disconnect the battery.

 

It seems to do this when the battery is very low so perhaps just a symptom of low power to the car?

 

This morning, though, a new one altogether - the offside high beam was on!  Just the one side, obviously very dim since the battery was reading less than 5 volts.

 

The only good news is that I don't think there has been any more water ingress into the car, and while I haven't yet put it back on the car I think I've managed to successfully glue the two pieces of tail light together again!

 

I've also noticed that the CD changer seems to randomly scan through the cassette every time the car is unlocked, assuming there's enough power to unlock the damn thing.  It has done this quite a few times in the past , mind, I think I just put it down to a duff MULF unit, which I believe causes this to happen.

 

It's been a good run but I reckon I could be chasing ghosts round this car before it's fixed!

 

 

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The CD changer cycling and the alarm going off are just because the battery is low. 

 

You have a battery drain problem. Quite often the tailgate glass button or tailgate wiring. Or water in the modules below the spare wheel well. 

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36 minutes ago, JasonH said:

You have a battery drain problem. Quite often the tailgate glass button or tailgate wiring. Or water in the modules below the spare wheel well. 

 

That's a given.  I've already checked the spare wheel well, some water but very minimal, certainly not enough to get near, let alone fry anything electrical.

 

What I want to avoid is just spending money on parts willy-nilly in the hope it'll fix the problem; I could buy a new glass hatch switch and still have the same issue, I could buy a new IBS and still have the same issue.  All of a sudden I'm the best part of £300 lighter but no closer to a functioning car.

 

I repaired the tailgate loom in the summer so hopefully that's ok, I gave it a quick glance this morning, as I thought the same thing, but couldn't see any signs of damage.

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A lot of the things you mention are very cheap to fix with good used parts - £20 for an IBS, £50 for a MULF2 (good upgrade on the original and plug & play) and before spending any money you can confirm both of those as faulty with a fault reader. The only thing that's a waste of time or money is trying to guess why it's going flat without doing some diagnostics :)

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44 minutes ago, JasonH said:

You should be able to disconnect the tailgate switch to eliminate that. 

 

You can also unplug the IBS data lines to disable the IBS and eliminate that. 

 

Yes, of course, the same thing did occur to me also just after I replied earlier.  Which one is the data line?  There are two plugs on the sensor IIRC?

 

32 minutes ago, edd_jedi said:

A lot of the things you mention are very cheap to fix with good used parts - £20 for an IBS, £50 for a MULF2 (good upgrade on the original and plug & play) and before spending any money you can confirm both of those as faulty with a fault reader. The only thing that's a waste of time or money is trying to guess why it's going flat without doing some diagnostics :)

 

I should have a used IBS on its way, but have no real confidence it will be any better than the one I already have.  Been toying with the idea of a MULF2 for a while but since I'm not using the car a whole lot (pretty good thing, too) not sure it's worth it at the moment.

 

I haven't read the codes in a couple of days and then only the codes in the DMS and the only one that wouldn't clear was the IBS, but is that just a symptom of low battery charge?

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Just now, edd_jedi said:

I'm not sure what code you are getting, but if it's 4477 that means the IBS is either disconnected or faulty

 

There were three in total (see attached):

  • CDA7 DME (status reverse gear, 3B0) - that one has been there ever since I bought the car, I can clear it but always comes back but never seems to cause any issue so I don't worry about it.
  • 299B Battery Sensor - this is the one that came back immediately after clearing it.
  • CODE: 000129AF no description! (very emphatic with the exclamation mark)

 

IMG_4860.jpeg

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I have recently used a UV setting superglue, bought on ebay, came complete with small UV torch.  Sets clear & gave a strong bond - I used it on glass - also can be layered to gap fill. Sold by Olax electronics 

10ML CRYSTAL REPAIR UV RESIN, GLUE FOR GLASS, METAL, FURNITURE + 9 LED UV TORCH

 
90 product ratings
 

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Did you find the source of your battery drain@haych?

 

Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, sarahMtony said:

Did you find the source of your battery drain@haych?

 

Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Bit of a long story but seems it was indeed the battery sensor.  Took it to a local garage for diagnostics and they only told me what I already suspected and charged me £50 for the privilege.  Oh, and they disconnected my dashcam for good luck too.  Won't be using that place again!

 

Got a used sensor from a later vehicle along with the adaptor cable and modified it to fit and it *seems* to be ok since.

 

However, I'm still not confident the issues are over.  

 

Water is still getting into the battery box and spare wheel well somehow and I can't figure out how.  It's not a flood but once it's there there's nowhere else for it to go so it just accumulates.  Everything else in the car is bone dry, not a hint of moisture around the rear lights (the usual culprit) and all the sound deadening and carpets are bone dry too, so beats me where it's coming from.

 

Then, the other day I went out to take my daughter shopping and when I got to the car all the interior lights were on - can't work that one out.  Car was locked but lit up like Blackpool illuminations inside.  Couldn't have been on for all that long as the car still started ok.  So that's made me nervous the gremlins haven't gone and that wherever the water is getting in it might be going via something else electrical.

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