Jump to content
Lloydy

About to change engine oil

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

Time to get my 525i ready for the spring / summer. 
 

Having had the car for many years and gradually moved through from 10/40 to 15/40. As the M30 is now on 182k should I go millers 20/50, problem is this is mineral only. 
 

Is it better to make the move and go mineral 20/50 or 15/40 semi synthetic or mineral??? 
 

Appreciate your opinions. 

 

Darren

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Darren,

 

I researched this last year - and the best advice I got from a former BMW garage owner was to use an oil with the zinc additive as this will help protect the cam shafts, bearings etc from wearing. I have an E28 520i - and also a 1974 2002.

 

I went ahead and purchased the Duckhams 10/40 from Opie oils which is designed for classics.

 

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-197441-duckhams-classic-q-10w-40-engine-oil.aspx

 

I'm guessing this advice should also hold true for your 525i

I hope this is useful info.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There’s no difference in viscosity between 15w/40 and 10w/40 at normal operating temperature  although the 10w40 may offer slightly better cold starting.

 

If it wasn’t burning oil with a /40, then why not stick with it - you might get slightly better mpg than with a /50 at operating temps. 

 

My old 635csi ran really well on a diet of 10w40,  evidenced by the lovely condition of the cam lobes. Previous owner used Castrol GTX 10w/40 but changed yearly irrespective of miles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Good to know. There’s a bit of oil burn on start up which it’s done for many years; valve stem oil seals but don’t want to open engine up unless it’s absolutely necessary. 
 

Would you say 20/50 is too thick then? 
 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Lloydy said:

Thanks. Good to know. There’s a bit of oil burn on start up which it’s done for many years; valve stem oil seals but don’t want to open engine up unless it’s absolutely necessary. 
 

Would you say 20/50 is too thick then? 
 

Nope, i think 20w50 would be ok, especially at 

 

I just recall running a /50 in an old 911 i no longer have - it felt more lively on a a /40 and ran marginally cooler.

 

Try the 20w50 - cheap enough to change it if you don’t like it or it runs a bit hotter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Owners Handbook has a section on suitable oil grades. 10W-40 is listed as suitable when air temperatures are with the -20c to +30c range which would seem to include the UK.

My 2002tii was very slightly smokey on startup. Nothing dramatic, just a hint of blue smoke and I found that using Halfords own brand Classic 20W-50 designed for 1960 thru 1980 cars cured that problem, with no side effects. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-classic-oil-20w50-5l-537977.html 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used from Castrol Magnatec 10W40 for many years with no issues until Castrol stopped supplying it.  I had a brief excursion to Castrol 10W30 but my Eta's got noticeably noisier so switched to using Castrol GTX 20W50.

 

Old oil technology for old engines.

 

This Castrol website is quite informative:

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-magnatec.html

 

Really miss the old green Duckhams Q20W50 :cool:

 

The deep green colour looked like oil, it smelt like oil, it felt like oil not sure of the taste though :lol:

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Mick, Millers classic sport 20 w50  is the closest I reckon you’ll get to the old green duckhams. Im thinking that might be the best approach if not the 15/40. But the millers guys do know their stuff for quality oil. 
 

Have you seen what they offer? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 04/02/2021 at 00:08, Ordnator said:

I used from Castrol Magnatec 10W40 for many years with no issues until Castrol stopped supplying it.  I had a brief excursion to Castrol 10W30 but my Eta's got noticeably noisier so switched to using Castrol GTX 20W50.

 

Old oil technology for old engines.

 

This Castrol website is quite informative:

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/motor-engine-oil-brands/castrol-gtx-magnatec.html

 

Really miss the old green Duckhams Q20W50 :cool:

 

The deep green colour looked like oil, it smelt like oil, it felt like oil not sure of the taste though :lol:

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

 

I Loved the smell of Duckhams Hypergrade in the morning Mick, lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Steve van hool said:

 

I Loved the smell of Duckhams Hypergrade in the morning Mick, lol

 

Hey Steve,

 

Me too :cool:

 

Good old interweb, apparently Duckhams has been re-launched, happy days :D 

 

https://www.duckhams.com/product/hypergrade-plus-10w-40-a3b4/

HPLUS-10W40-A3B4.jpg

and this:

 

https://www.duckhams.com/sg/product/hypergrade-15w-50/

 

HP4L-1.jpg

 

Just need to find a supplier in Canada :roll:

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Lloydy said:

Hey Mick, Millers classic sport 20 w50  is the closest I reckon you’ll get to the old green duckhams. Im thinking that might be the best approach if not the 15/40. But the millers guys do know their stuff for quality oil. 
 

Have you seen what they offer? 

 

Hey Lloydy,

 

I did not know about Millers, I do now and their website is very informative, thanks for the top tip :grin:

 

They have a supplier in the US, and are looking for additional distributers of which there are currently none in Canada :shock:

 

Do I see a small retirement project in my future to go with E28.ca?

 

Never say never, but that would be quite a lot of effort to get top quality oil.

 

That said there is quite a strong classic car scene in Nova Scotia.  Must be something to do with the large garages on large plots of land together with the long winters :roll:

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

Edited by Ordnator

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So looks like the consensus is mainly 15/40 or 20/50, both are detailed in the handbook and better than a 10/40 particularly as there will be some wear in our m20’s and 30’s! Always good to have a debate on stuff, especially when it’s not clear cut. 
 

thanks all. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Lloydy said:

So looks like the consensus is mainly 15/40 or 20/50, both are detailed in the handbook and better than a 10/40 particularly as there will be some wear in our m20’s and 30’s! Always good to have a debate on stuff, especially when it’s not clear cut. 
 

thanks all. 

I'm no expert on this but, be aware that the two viscosities use different scales. Its a bit like reporting todays weather as somewhere between 0F and 10C, marketed as OF-10. The first figure describes the viscosity at 0C (or some such) and the 2nd at 100C. From our perspective the 2nd is the important number. 40 is fine but 50 may be better for a rattily smoker. The cold start viscosity is not really important for our cosseted summer cars.

Edited by JohnH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up 4 x 5 litres jugs of Castrol GTX 20W50 last year from Canadian Type for a very good price:

 

IMG_3063.JPG.c1ac35efeae3db7b277388246613ec60.JPG

 

Used one can on the Diamantschwartz Eta during the oil change.

 

Stay safe and best regards.

 

Mick

 

Edited by Ordnator

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20w 50 oil is what was recommended when the E28 was a current model, however that was 40 years ago, oil, or liquid engineering, is not the same today, although it still performs the same basic function.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

15W40 semi synthetic is all you need. I've used it in my E32 from 200k to over 300k. Change it every 7000 with a decent filter, keep the camshaft spray bar banjo bolts in order and it'll be fine. It's an old low stressed engine made from high quality parts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×