Power Management Board Network Fault Code

[edd_jedi 185]

I have an issue that I haven't been able to get to the bottom of, so am hoping for some help. For the last six months or so, I have been getting a 'high battery drain' warning on iDrive when the car is left standing for 2-3 days. It doesn't seem to be draining completely as it always starts fine, but I am confused why I'm getting it because my battery is less than three years old, it was registered/coded etc, and I replaced my IBS and faulty MULF at the time, so for a couple of years I had no battery issues.

 

So I read my fault codes and am getting ' 004548 Power Management Board Network.' You can also see in the second attached screenshot that the fault is being recorded when the battery charge level is very low (7.53%) and interestingly in the final screenshot you can see that according to the Carly battery registration tool my battery apparently never reaches 85% charge level. All of this is most confusing considering I have a fairly recent good quality battery (Yuasa YBX5020.) There are no other power related fault codes, there are a couple stored related to my seats which I can't clear, but they've been present since I bought the car.

 

Does anyone have any idea what this 'Power Management Board Network' fault is? Google is coming up blank. It's possible I have a parasitic drain, but as above I've already sorted the common culprits (MULF/IBS) and there are no fault codes for either of those so I can only assume they are working fine.

 

Any help appreciated!

 

 

 

[max535 43]

This probably wont help but i had a similar issue recently, i cant remember what it was exactly but it mentioned something about power management, i thought probably IBS etc and started looking into it, then when i had a look the cables the negative terminal wasn't nipped up as well as it could be so i sorted that, cleared the codes and I've never seen the issue since, maybe a long shot but worth checking?

Edited January 15 by max535

[edd_jedi 185]

Thanks but it's definitely not the IBS as it throws a fault code if disconnected or not working.

[max535 43]

Just to clarify i meant the negative battery terminal, there was nothing wrong with the IBS cables on my car, like i said long shot but that was the simple fix for me.

Edited January 15 by max535

[edd_jedi 185]

Ah sorry I misread it, yes worth checking, thanks

[GoNz0 490]

I've seen the ibs as the cause but it is rare, it didn't throw a code either.
What you need to do it find someone with ista so they can view the wake logs and go from there.

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[edd_jedi 185]

3 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

I've seen the ibs as the cause but it is rare, it didn't throw a code either.
What you need to do it find someone with ista so they can view the wake logs and go from there.

 

Thanks, just downloading it now. I just checked the car 30 minutes after parking up and it seems to have gone to sleep as the gear lever light has turned off. I was thinking I could use a multimeter to see the power draw while sleeping, my understanding is once all fully asleep it should be in the milliamps range?

[GoNz0 490]

80ma and below is fine, it will log it all so you should get an idea.

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[edd_jedi 185]

I don't suppose you have any thoughts on the battery stats in the third photo? I assume this data is for the entite life of the car covering all the batteries it has had installed (at least three) so I can't speak for what happened before I bought it, but for the last 4 years I have been doing a lot of motorway driving so I can't understand why the battery has spent almost 50% of its time in the 40-55% charged range. I would have thought 15 minutes+ of motorway driving would have got it to 75% at least. Also worth mentioning I have used my CTEK charger to fully charge it a few times since I replaced the battery in 2018 (mainly during the first lockdown when I was barely using the car.)

[GoNz0 490]

What pictures 

[edd_jedi 185]

Sorry, third screenshot in first post:

 

 

[GoNz0 490]

I'm really not sure on that, it could be the battery was old stock and had been sat filled on a shelf for a while before install, standard lead acid are supplied dry and filled when dispatched to resellers. BMW are only allowed to have them on a shelf for a set amount of time then they can't sell them.

 

It will have deemed it unable to take more charge if it limits it to that capacity, it's almost as though it's a 90ah coded as 110 but as you did it yourself...

[edd_jedi 185]

Yes it's a YBX5020 battery which is definitely 110ah, and I changed the value in the VO myself when fitting it. Odd.

 

I have ISTA+ installed now, I don't suppose you can remember how to get to the wake logs you mentioned?

 

 

[GoNz0 490]

service functions, body then voltage

[edd_jedi 185]

OK just had a go, it's my first time using ISTA+ so I'm not sure if I was doing it right. I couldn't find anything called 'wake logs', under Body > Voltage the only three options were:

 

 

I believe the first one puts the car to sleep, so here's the read outs for the other two:

 

 

 

Anything of interest or help there? It looks to me like the battery for some reason is never being charged more than 40% while driving, and also there is is a drain of 80-200ma. I'll try charging the battery with my CTEK again tomorrow as it has been a few months.

 

Also I noticed that my 'CID' module is red which I believe means no communiction, could that be anything to do with it? I just looked up CID on Google and people are referring to it as the bluetooth module. As I have a CarPlay unit fitted I switched off (unchecked) my Bluetooth in iDrive, would that be why it's not responding? And shall I try turning it back on?

 

Edited January 16 by edd_jedi

[edd_jedi 185]

The CTEK charger is now on to see if I can get the charge level over 40%. Thinking about it, although the battery is only three years old, it has drained flat twice in that time, once when I accidentally knocked the lights on while hoovering inside, and once during the first lockdown when I didn't drive it for 3 weeks. So it is possible the battery has been damaged by those discharges.

 

Looking at the numbers above, the total hours in the Carly screenshot added together is approx 2 years, which roughly matches with when I registered the battery. The ISTA standby current screenshot says the drain of 80-200ma has only been for a total of 6 days during that period, so I don't think that's a massive concern because a 0.2amp drain would take over 400 hours to deplete a 110ah battery. But I would still like to try and get to the bottom of it.

 

I'm going to fully charge the battery, reset the standby stats, and then check again in a week or so to see what it reports. But if anyone has any clues for how I can use ISTA to find what is causing the occasional 200ma drain, please let me know!

Edited January 17 by edd_jedi

[edd_jedi 185]

Here's the fault codes stored, I already know about the AUX pump and seat codes as they have been present since I bought the car and won't clear. But I'm unsure what either S0078 or 004548 are. I tried turning my Bluetooth back on, but CID is still showing as not responding. I wonder if it's because I have an Android/CarPlay unit fitted? I remember leaving one of the plugs disconnected as per the instructions, does anyone else with an Android unit have this code stored?

 

And also here's all the info ISTA has on 004548 if that gives any more clues what it may be.

 

 

 

[GoNz0 490]

Closed circuit monitoring is the one m8, it shouldn't be over 80ma so you have stuff waking the car for sure. 

 

CID module is the I drive screen, you get that when you fit an android head unit as the screens gone.

 

The rear window faults the massive clue in all this as each time it shorts it wakes the car.

 

Pop into the battery register bit and it will confirm if it was registered and that you have the correct type.

 

Edited January 17 by GoNz0

[edd_jedi 185]

Thanks, I have a feeling that will be the dreaded tailgate wiring then. I repaired one of the looms last year as my boot stopped closing, but I noticed last month that my rear window heater doesn't work so I'm guessing there are more breaks in the other three hinge looms. I noticed 4548 shows as a 'DDE' fault though which I thought was related to the diesel/fuel system, a red herring maybe?

 

Also I fully charged the battery yesterday, it only took about 6 hours which seems a bit quick, and also ISTA is still only reporting it being 43% charged (unless there is a lag in the data.) Confirmation my battery is shot? If so might wait until the hinge wires are repaired as I don't want to kill a new battery. I have also reset the standby current logs, so will be interesting to see what they show in a week or so.

 

 

[GoNz0 490]

Thanks, I have a feeling that will be the dreaded tailgate wiring then. I repaired one of the looms last year as my boot stopped closing, but I noticed last month that my rear window heater doesn't work so I'm guessing there are more breaks in the other three hinge looms. I noticed 4548 shows as a 'DDE' fault though which I thought was related to the diesel/fuel system, a red herring maybe?
 
Also I fully charged the battery yesterday, it only took about 6 hours which seems a bit quick, and also ISTA is still only reporting it being 43% charged (unless there is a lag in the data.) Confirmation my battery is shot? If so might wait until the hinge wires are repaired as I don't want to kill a new battery. I have also reset the standby current logs, so will be interesting to see what they show in a week or so.
 

 

Battery is done for unfortunately

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[edd_jedi 185]

OK thanks, I'll read the stats again in a week just out of interest to see how often it is doing it. I probably won't tackle the hinge wires until it warms up a bit!

 

On another note, I don't suppose you have any experience with the seat modules? My drivers side heating has never worked, I can see in the fault memory there are 4 SMFA faults, the half electrics still work but would that many errors indicate a faulty module or possibly even wiring?

Edited January 18 by edd_jedi

[GoNz0 490]

Those seat faults show the modules working but you have faults within the seat as indicated.

[edd_jedi 185]

OK thanks, thought it might be like the glow plugs where multiple faults point to the module. Strange that it's showing two adjustment faults as the seat adjustment works fine.

[GoNz0 490]

Just now, edd_jedi said:

OK thanks, thought it might be like the glow plugs where multiple faults point to the module. Strange that it's showing two adjustment faults as the seat adjustment works fine.

The encoder strip reading the adjustments probably the issue.

[roi354 3]

On 17/01/2021 at 08:13, edd_jedi said:

The CTEK charger is now on to see if I can get the charge level over 40%. Thinking about it, although the battery is only three years old, it has drained flat twice in that time, once when I accidentally knocked the lights on while hoovering inside, and once during the first lockdown when I didn't drive it for 3 weeks. So it is possible the battery has been damaged by those discharges.

 

There's your problem I think - the battery has been drained past the point that it can recover. Cteks are wonderful things and can sometimes perform miracles, but usually I find if a battery has been drained sufficiently that you don't even get so much as a courtesy light then it's gone.

Your Ctek will be fully charging what's left of the battery to charge, rather than fully charging to the capacity that you think it is.

Your only hope is to leave the Ctek connected for a few days so it can run through all of its modes, but it's unlikely it'll ever regain it's full capacity.

 

Is this a regular lead acid or an AGM? And have you got your Ctek set on the correct mode/voltage?