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Andyrt200

Lowering springs on a Sport

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So I've swapped back my Sport springs and removed the Eibach Pros and they were fitted correctly too.  After checking the part nos on the springs again, I think they are for the Touring and need the additional weight to compress the springs better.  Part nos are: KBA90517 and also EW2053002HA and if anybody can double check they suitability, that'll be great as I've had little joy on the Eibach website.

 

A quick check with the tape measure reveals after refitting the Sport springs it's already slightly lower and they've yet to settle.  I'll check and measure again tomorrow but it'll need a good couple of weeks before they settle.

Eibach Spring.jpg

Sport Spring Fitted.jpg

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That was quick:lol:.

 

When I say, yeah I need to get them off to change the springs, it's been probably about 2 years since I said that. 

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57 minutes ago, ttelracs said:

, I think they are for the Touring and need the additional weight to compress the springs better. 


I’ve got air bags so can’t be sure for Tourings that have springs but my shocks are totally separate from the air bag:

zhl2CjZ.jpg

 

The air bag isn’t fitted in that picture but it goes on that hole right in the middle. 
Assuming the springs go in the same place they are probably quite different to a saloon spring. 

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Thanks @QasimI've done this so many times now that I know the little shortcuts, which tools I need and what I don't have to take off to fit.  Also there are now no seized nuts or bolts as I make sure I clean and grease everything before refitting which helps the next time I need to take them apart... 

 

@Andyrt200 I've read people removing the airbags and fitting springs and EIbach do list a prokit spring for the Touring.  I'm a bir frustrated with it as this is the fourth time in about 18 months I've done this now and am just relieved I kept my Sport springs, although I was tempted to remove a coil and refit the Eibachs, but will probably put them up for sale now.

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1 hour ago, Andyrt200 said:


I’ve got air bags so can’t be sure for Tourings that have springs but my shocks are totally separate from the air bag:

zhl2CjZ.jpg

 

The air bag isn’t fitted in that picture but it goes on that hole right in the middle. 
Assuming the springs go in the same place they are probably quite different to a saloon spring. 

 

They do; same shocks, but springs and pads replace the bag etc and IIRC the touring rear spring is a touch longer than then saloon; that explain why it was sitting higher!

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15 hours ago, ttelracs said:

Thanks @QasimI've done this so many times now that I know the little shortcuts, which tools I need and what I don't have to take off to fit.  Also there are now no seized nuts or bolts as I make sure I clean and grease everything before refitting which helps the next time I need to take them apart... 

 

@Andyrt200 I've read people removing the airbags and fitting springs and EIbach do list a prokit spring for the Touring.  I'm a bir frustrated with it as this is the fourth time in about 18 months I've done this now and am just relieved I kept my Sport springs, although I was tempted to remove a coil and refit the Eibachs, but will probably put them up for sale now.


I know how you feel, I thought I’d spend a long time messing about fault finding & slowly replacing every part of the air suspension on the E39 but it was nothing compared time spent taking the springs off & on the 335i to get it to hight I wanted. 
 

I don’t know if it’s any help but I found one of the old sport air bags, they have settled in the position they spent most of their life in. 
 

TCwVer9.jpg

 

All the eBay sellers were helpful when I was asking about the front springs. Probably easier to ask one of them, they would likely know what the springs you have should go on & would be able to tell you how easy replacement would be to get hold of. 
The eBay sellers larkspeedperformancecentre were probably the most helpful I was only asking about availability but they sent a few long messages very quickly. 
 

There is a set of second hand E39 Eibachs on eBay at the moment too. 

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My fronts have just turned up directly from Germany, no problems took a week to get here, but they had to order them I from the factory in Germany first. 
 

Only £93.50 delivered & no sign of any post Brexit extra import charges (yet, fingers crossed!)
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140931505654

 

Seller is called mmm-automotive if anyone is looking at this in the future. Good English & helpful too. 
 

Fw9RPU7.jpg

 

Hope I only need to fit them once! 

Edited by Andyrt200

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1 hour ago, Andyrt200 said:

My fronts have just turned up directly for Germany, no problems took a week to get here, but they had to order them I from the factory in Germany first. 
 

Only £93.50 delivered & no sign of any post Brexit extra import charges (yet, fingers crossed!)
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140931505654

 

Seller is called mmm-automotive if anyone is looking at this in the future. Good English & helpful too. 
 

Fw9RPU7.jpg

 

Hope I only need to fit them once! 

 

Great price and speedy delivery 8) 

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There’s a fine line between bodge & repair, but new stone deflectors & backing plates for both sides would have been a lot more than the new springs....

ATL36oj.jpg

 

Glad I noticed in TIS that you must never use an impact driver to do this:

p0kmZlm.jpg


A 21mm spark plug socket turned out to be perfect with the wrench hex fitting on the top allowing the Allen key to slip down inside. 

Its not finished but together enough to get on the ground to have a look:

 

DsXrKFk.jpg
 

iN0bGXh.jpg

 

ggPuNNW.jpg

 

PxF4Pyy.jpg

 

As everyone said the perfect drop!
 

Just trying to decide if I should swap the front spacers from 15mm to 20mm. 
 

The fronts are 8.5x19 ET32, rears 9.5x19 ET35

with 15mm spacers front & rear. 
 

So I think that makes the rear the correct ET20 just with the 9.5” rims filling the arch out nicely. 
 

The fronts (if I’m not getting mixed up!) are actually ET17 now, so close to standard it’s never going to notice. Putting a 20mm spacer on would take me to ET12 (?)
 

I’m just slightly bothered it might affect the steering feel messing with the scrub radius that much. Also I’m slightly bothered it could lead to more stone chips on the lower half of the doors with the tyres sticking out that bit more. 
 

I think the bottoms of the wheels are just a little further out with the slightly lower springs on as it is now (there is a point in the arc of the lower arms when the wheels will be further out). So they don’t look quite as tucked in as they did before, or maybe it’s just the smaller arch gap playing tricks on the eye! 

 

Any thoughts @d_a_n1979 or anyone else? 
 

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3 minutes ago, Andyrt200 said:

There’s a fine line between bodge & repair, but new stone deflectors & backing plates for both sides would have been a lot more than the new springs....

ATL36oj.jpg

 

Glad I noticed in TIS that you must never use an impact driver to do this:

p0kmZlm.jpg


A 21mm spark plug socket turned out to be perfect with the wrench hex fitting on the top allowing the Allen key to slip down inside. 

Its not finished but together enough to get on the ground to have a look:

 

DsXrKFk.jpg
 

iN0bGXh.jpg

 

ggPuNNW.jpg

 

PxF4Pyy.jpg

 

As everyone said the perfect drop!
 

Just trying to decide if I should swap the front spacers from 15mm to 20mm. 
 

The fronts are 8.5x19 ET32, rears 9.5x19 ET35

with 15mm spacers front & rear. 
 

So I think that makes the rear the correct ET20 just with the 9.5” rims filling the arch out nicely. 
 

The fronts (if I’m not getting mixed up!) are actually ET17 now, so close to standard it’s never going to notice. Putting a 20mm spacer on would take me to ET12 (?)
 

I’m just slightly bothered it might affect the steering feel messing with the scrub radius that much. Also I’m slightly bothered it could lead to more stone chips on the lower half of the doors with the tyres sticking out that bit more. 
 

I think the bottoms of the wheels are just a little further out with the slightly lower springs on as it is now (there is a point in the arc of the lower arms when the wheels will be further out). So they don’t look quite as tucked in as they did before, or maybe it’s just the smaller arch gap playing tricks on the eye! 

 

Any thoughts @d_a_n1979 or anyone else? 
 

 

20s will be fine Andy; are you going to go over to a stud kit (or have you already done that)?

 

I ran 18s with an offset of 8 up front on 245/40/18" tyres... When I ran 19" LMs on my previous E39 saloon; they were an offset of 10 on the fronts with 245/35/19" tyres; zero issues.

 

There's loads of room in the front wells; it's the rears that are shallower and you have to be more careful with; I've found with 265/275 18" or 19" tyres and an offset of 20 to be perfect; anything lower than that and it tends to rub, but on undulations mainly on the m'ways when you're travelling at speed...

 

Looks like it sits really well too pal ;) Love the BBS CH-Rs on it :mrgreen: :cool: 

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9 minutes ago, Andyrt200 said:


 

iN0bGXh.jpg

 

 

 

Bit of a 'side by side', so to speak, of our tourings with the different sized alloys (19" BBS vs 17" OEM 66s) and a UK front number plate vs an import spec number plate

 

washday5.jpg

 

;) 

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4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

20s will be fine Andy; are you going to go over to a stud kit (or have you already done that)?

 

I ran 18s with an offset of 8 up front on 245/40/18" tyres... When I ran 19" LMs on my previous E39 saloon; they were an offset of 10 on the fronts with 245/35/19" tyres; zero issues.

 

There's loads of room in the front wells; it's the rears that are shallower and you have to be more careful with; I've found with 265/275 18" or 19" tyres and an offset of 20 to be perfect; anything lower than that and it tends to rub, but on undulations mainly on the m'ways when you're travelling at speed...

 

Looks like it sits really well too pal ;) Love the BBS CH-Rs on it :mrgreen: :cool: 


Thanks Dan, 20s it is then! 
 

Yes, sitting much better now, you were of course right when you said a couple of years ago it could have been a little lower on the front;)

The spring wasn’t located correctly on the drivers side & the shock wasn’t all the way down in the knuckle so it was probably actually sitting a little higher than properly sport hight before too. 
 

I haven’t had any issues with the 275s on the rears, glad they weren’t on when the accumulator burst, think it would have shredded the tyre! But with properly working self levelling it hasn’t ever rubbed in 30,000+ miles. 
 

I had a look at studs but wasn’t sure about them. I don’t have any problems getting the wheels on, probably would be a pain up on a two post ramp but when it’s only a few feet off the ground it’s fine. Also cars that come with studs have ones that press into to the hub from behind, a thicker splined base & heads to stop them pulling through. The E39 kits I have seen are basically just bolts with no heads, so in a way worse as you have two threads holding the wheels on, though the threads are obviously designed to be strong enough to hold wheels so probably not much in it, I can’t see them being better than longer bolts in terms of strength so I’ll probably stick with longer bolts, though will likely need yet another set for 20s! 
 

4 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Bit of a 'side by side', so to speak, of our tourings 

Just as well the stone chips in my bonnet & wings don’t show up in the pictures, you can’t tell how much nicer I’m sure yours actually looks up close! 

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See i disagree re the studs pal. 

 

They're designed very well but also a safer option for when running thick spacers as they pull both ways then. 

 

Fitted with loctite and torqued down, they're very safe and they do help with getting alloys on and off without the balancing of the wheel issues etc.... 

 

I do get what you're saying, but I'd personally not run longer wheel bolts. They're also frowned upon on various tracks (not that our cars will ever see track days etc).. 

 

The good thing about the stud kit too is that it helps the spacers to sit perfectly as well, which you know can be a bit faffy when trying to fit the alloy with the bolt etc

 

This is a simple explanation for studs vs bolts

 

https://bimmertips.com/wheel-studs-vs-bolts-advantages-and-disadvantages/

 

Each to their own though I know that ;)

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