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bronx1987

E39 530d touring "chasing the ponies"

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So to introduce myself, my name is Jean and I currently reside in Australia.

I have found a UK import e39 525d touring which was in pretty bad shape.

 

So I bought this car originally in August 2018 with a blown engine due to a failed HPFP.

So I decided to rip the old donk out and build a 530d.

So out came the d25, replaced it with a d30 from a x5 (only m57 gen1 engined car in OZ).

I did a quick freshen up, all new mounts, rubbers, seals etc and in it went, quickly flashed the DDE4 to a 530d map with a stage 1 tune and it started right up.

 

So once it passed inspection (god knows how it did) it was registered and I started to use it as a daily driver.

Now this is where the fun began......

It drove like absolute sh*t.

Once checked, turns out that every bushing and joint was basically non-existent.

 

So of to buy the whole driveline catalogue:

Meyle HD for bushes

Febi Bilstein for arms

Poly bushes for front arms (track days)

Bearings are FAG

DBA t2 large disk upgrade with EBC blue up front, bosch rotors with EBC red on rear

 

Once that was done the car felt much better, however it still had a horrible vibration during higher speed, turns out the wheels were out of balance, but being cheap chinese wheels and tyres I decided to swap a spare pair of style 66 with some hankook rs3's on there.

Will you look at that, wonderful, car drives pretty good now eventhough the ass felt a bit loose and the belt tensioner started clattering and hitting end to end.

 

So theres me going on a search for what is wrong this time.

Rear end was loose because the subframe mounts had 1cm+ thick cracks through them, so ordered the parts, 1hr to replace them and done.

How about the tensioner rattling its tits off? What would cause that? Turns out my DMF had 10mm of play in it which at idle really messed things up.

Solution? Bought the PMC m57 7kg flywheel and heavy duty clutch combo.

Fixed the issue, however just to be safe I replaced the alternator pulley with a clutched pulley like what is found in the later model diesels.

 

Finally the car was where it should be from factory, nice and smooth (minus that damned gearbox chatter from solid disks and SMF)

 

So this is where the fun begins:

I truly enjoy the grunt and torque this car has, but lets face it, in todays world under 500nm in a diesel is nothing.

So I decided to search the wonderful web for what can be done.

 

There are quite a few good posts on forums and the most useful one by far was on here by "Sinner - restarting the 530d", I can not thank him enough for the fuel system upgrade DIY post.

 

So I have decided to set myself some goals:

Break the 1000nm mark!

 

So the parts list was made up:

 

Gearbox- 53dz out of the later model cars.

Clutch- Spec clutches twin disk 1400nm capable.

Differential- 215k OS giken LSD.

Front brakes- wilwood forged superlight 6 piston with 2 piece rotors.

Suspension- eibach pro kit with b8 on front and b6 on rear, custom sway bars 28mm front and 20mm rear.

 

Engine:

 

-Stock m57d30 with upgraded valve springs.

-Fuel system upgrade to cp3 r90 @1800bar (thank you Sinner)

Stock 530d injectors with Farid high flow nozzles

-AEM V3 water meth kit

-Turbo is from FMIC.eu 460hp+ unit with custom m57n2 vband to 3 bolt adapter.

-Custom 3" exhaust with 100 cell cat and magnaflow muffler.

 

I will be posting updates and pictures along the way, however this may take some time as covid has really delayed a lot of my items from Europe.

Mainly turbo and gearbox.

 

If anyone has any questions or wants measurements, dimensions etc I am more than happy to help out.

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Bronx1987,

 

Congratulations on the saving of the Touring and now, the project and ideas you have for it ! will be interesting to see how you progress on this ! All the mechanical stuff on Sinners thread I've read, but it doesn't make much sense to me as I don't pick up a spanner for keeping my car going! I've had a stage 2 done along with a manual 5 spd swap a few years previously and I'm around 275HP but I'm not sure of the torque generated now. I'm not overly fussed in finding out either as for my daily drive Touring, I'm more than happy on just how awesome it feels and drives now. I 'might' upgrade the injectors to go from 275HP to around 290/295 HP on a good road driving ECU map, but for now, I'm not bothering. 

 

Look forward to your progress updates !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

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Good looking car. Props to you for the work so far. That is going to be very cool!

Did you do a stud conversion when you had the cams out? (those numbers might be worth it)

If you're putting a gs6-53dz in there, you might have issues with the splines on the clutch plate (ask me how i know...). pretty sure it's a 26 tooth they need.

I've just designed some proper brackets for the rail conversion, I'll post the volume model tomorrow.  

Edited by sinner

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Thanks lads, and @sinner, yeah I know the gs6 gearbox, 26 tooth x35mm hence me having to get a custom twin plate made by spec (if they follow through on their word).

 

I have only done the spring conversion for the cams, I dont think anyone offers the stud conversion for the cam caps.

I know the rod and main bearings have ARP studs available which I might invest in (but want to push the limits of the factory engine)

 

I am very keen on the brackets for the rail.

I have to make all that stuff myself as no machine shop in Australia takes on a one off project.... Rather frustrating to be honest, so your 3d drawings help me out heaps.

I am also still waiting on the turbo and if I get the electeonic VNT set up before you, I will let you know exactly how it was done and what maps we changed.

 

In the mean time, I have started to install my AEM water meth kit and I have attached the pictures to show how and where I have mounted it.

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So, just an update, I've been very busy with work, but I did get to do the late model m57 fuel upgrade thanks to @sinner.

I also got around to fitting my OS Giken LSD.

 

Both of these mods took.me over 12 hours each as the amount of custom work required is excessive.

 

The biggest issue I found on the fuel conversion was the bending of the fuel lines.

Even now they still interfere with the intake.manifold and the #5 injector line, the nut that mounts to the rail actually rubs on the manifold.

I will sooner or later just get some custom lines made.

 

 

The LSD was also a major hassle as bmw designed the housing in such a way that you cant actually install most LSD's without grinding the living daylight out of the casing, this is especially true for the diesel high offset pumpkins as they are even wider than their lower offset counterparts.

 

So I spent 6 hours of grinding and filing just to get it to fit.

All in all, once I actually swapped out my old 188k for the new 215k, the OSG drives as smooth as a helical or open diff, but grips like a clutch diff when really flogging it.

 

 

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So a bit more on the updates.

The OSG diff drives a treat, driven a few 100km, smooth as a babys bottom.

 

Now as most of the mods have arrived, it is time to start doing the big stuff over the next month.

 

This includes:

 

-Fully sorting out my water meth system (havent welded a bung onto my egr delete pipe).

-Tapping into my exhaust manifold to mount my EGT sensor.

-4bar map sensor

-My new big boy gtb2260v turbo, making a 3 bolt to vband adapter for the later style turbocharger, then getting all the piping including dump pipe ready.

Believe it or not, but the dump pipe is most difficult as nobody sells the turbo/exhaust flange for this turbo on its own, so its either cut off from a dpf or buy a dpf delete pipe and modify it to fit my application.

 

The turbo that I have bought is the 450hp+ model from fmic.eu

The guys there have been awesone and the unit itself is scary large compared to the oem turbo.

 

I also managed to pick up some limited edition recaro sr3 seats from Japan, which I will install once my seat brackets arrive.

 

Once I get all the cad files together I will write up a list of items required to convert to the late model gtb2260v, including flanges, wiring diagrams etc.

 

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Nice man love a E39.

 

I was going to keep the original Gt2260v for mine but was advised that the later Gtb2260vk from an E90 is the one to go for - much wider powerband and much better flow, saying that though the one I've found from venomhybridturbos here in the UK is only rated to 350-380 but don't have plans to go beyond that yet.

 

How was the AEM meth kit to install? Might go down this route myself, fits nicely in the boot too haha

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1 hour ago, kyzo said:

Nice man love a E39.

 

I was going to keep the original Gt2260v for mine but was advised that the later Gtb2260vk from an E90 is the one to go for - much wider powerband and much better flow, saying that though the one I've found from venomhybridturbos here in the UK is only rated to 350-380 but don't have plans to go beyond that yet.

 

How was the AEM meth kit to install? Might go down this route myself, fits nicely in the boot too haha

 Hey mate,

AEM kit was easy enough to install, biggest issue I came across is having to modify my beautiful EGR delete pipe to weld a bung and MAP nipple to it.

I bought the one from bimmertune which is vastly different to their picture, it is actually a nicely anodized black, now I need to weld a damn silver bung to it.

@sinner has installed his meth kit and says it does good, once mine is mounted ill let you know how it goes.

Biggest problem for all these turbos is the m57n2 turbos run a V Band style turbocharger, and the only V band manifold available sits between cyl 1 & 2, which is exactly where the e39 engine mounting arm sits, so it doesnt fit.

Not to mention I cant even find a rear vband flange (4.33") to make my own downpipe, so I have to buy one from a m57n2 car and modify the downpipe to fit e39.

To fit an m57n2 vband style turbo to a e39 is an insane amount of hassle, but once I get some CAD adapter plates made up, Ill post them here so people can get their own ones made up.

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Had a little bit of time so did some cosmetic stuff.

Installed a set of limited edition, dark blue velour with gold centre SR3 seats.

 

I bought wedge brackets, was about 1 month wait time including shipping and well, for the price they are pretty sub par to be honest.

 

I had to redrill a 8mm hole on the sliders to 10mm because the lowest bolt would not fit, also they forgot to drill a guide hole on the back inner part where the e39 has a pin.

 

Once fitted, you cant get to the rear inner bolt on each seat, so basically have to remove the sliders from the bases, also the t50 bolts for the seatbelts are an absolute PITA to get on, I will have to either install them before mounting the seat in or swap to a normal bolt so I can get a spanner on them.

But biggest downfall is the seat belt attachment doesnt have the 2 keeper pins that stop the attachment straight.

 

But overall, the seats make up for it.

Lucky I am over 190cm, so I can actually look over the steering wheel, but still cant see the bonnet.

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Just an update, I have gotten around to getting a turbo flange adapter made.

This allows me to run the late model turbos on the e39.

I have everything ready for this conversion other than the dump pipe which is still in Germany.

(Thank you BMW for making stupid sized flanges that arent even V band)

 

Further updates will come as soon as I receive my downpipe, get everything fitted and tuned.

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So just an update for everyone.

The turbocharger will not fit without either a custom exhaust manifold or making a custom engine mount arm and subframe holder.

It fouls on the chassis with the adapter along with the mount.

 

Other option i checked was the m57n2 factory v band manifold, however, that also does not fit as the turbo fouls against engine mount.

 

So I have decided to make a cnc  Exhaust manifold exactly the same as the m57n2, however instead of the turbo sitting between cyl 2 and 3, it will be a reversed version where the turbo sits between cylinder 4 and 5.

In the mean time I have ordered a 2nd hybrid turbo but 3 bolt with electric actuator and "only" 350hp capability.

 

In the mean time, I am doing an engine swap as the injector nozzles I was running never worked correctly, so I am swapping a m57n engine from a 2004 model x5 into the e39.

This allows me to run the wonderful 160deg injectors incl the 535d versions.

 

Since the m57 and m57n have quite a few significant differences, I have decided to retrofit the e39 stuff to the m57n for plug and play with the dde4 ecu.

This includes all ancillaries, alternator, Power steering, all pulleys and idlers along with the 5pk harmonic balancer (60k is m57n standard).

This means the only repinning I need to do with connectors is the 6 injectors and the rest is all plug and play.

Along with the swap I will be doing the usual stuff, all seals and gaskets, 35d valve cover swap with custom 3.5" maf like 35d cars, that way I can run a pipe directly to turbo with pod filter, no more oval maf and weird airbox design.

Also the whole ARP catalogue will get thrown at the car also, mains, rods and head studs.

 

I have also ordered a twin plate clutch from ADAMAT performance to replace my current clutch setup as I am doing a gs6-53dz conversion in one hit.

 

Lets hope it will all work out this time around.

 

Photos will follow once my parts get delivered.

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19 hours ago, Ray112 said:

Are you replacing high pressure fuel pump as well? If using 35d injectors, stock pump will be limiting factor I believe.

yes, I will throw the r90 pump from my old m57 in there.

The biggest obstacle I currently have with the m57tu conversion is the different crank sensors.

The 1st gen m57 has a VR sensor and trigger wheel on the crankshaft. (60-2)

The 2nd gen m57tu has a Hall effect sensor and a magnetic trigger wheel. (AFAIK also 60-2)

So I either have to build my own VR sensor to run with the dde 4 ecu or build a converter from square wave to sine wave.

Also the main worry now is hoping that the trigger wheel has the missing teeth at the same angle as the original one.

I can only find out once I have both engines out and side by side.

 

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So, it has been some time.

But for anyone who is still curious or interested, I have swapped a m57n into my e39.

Everything is plug and play with no modifications except that darn crank sensor, so I had to make my own to utilise the original m57 VR sensor.

I have not gotten it started as the bracket that holds the VR sensor is not finished, but in theory everything should work.

 

Also I got around to fitting some e46 m3 big brake kit on the e39, just required custom caliper brackets.

So if anyone needs some CAD drawings to fit Wilwood 4\6 pots with some Wilwood rotors, let me know, it is a 331mm x 32mm, 6 piston kit, these clear 17" style 66 by about 5mm.

 

 

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Quick update.

Trigger wheel works. A+++++

Cam trigger is wrong tho, so all is for nothing.

 

Lucky for me, I have the entire wiring loom intact from the m57n motor that was found in the x5 e53.

The x5 e53 was basically a e39 as 4wd, so as far as I can tell, the communication should be the same.

A few modifications to the loom and everything was plug and play to the e39 ECU box.

 

Now the only thing that stands in my way is combining the x2411 (power and ground) and x2414 (chassis communication) plugs from the e39 ecu to the bosch edc16 58pin x2412 connector (all in one connector).

The issue for me is finding a pigtail version of the 58pin plug.

Lucky thing is, the early m57n motors used the same SSP alternator as the e46, e39, e53.

The SSP alternator uses 2 pins which are basically identical to the e39 factory alternator albeit having a different plug.

The later e6x and e9x m57n motors upgraded to a BSD alternator which communicates directly with the ecu via data and only 1 pin.

 

The only differences in the looms are:

1. Chassis x2414 on  e39 has coolant temp pinouts while the edc16 sends this info via can bus,  so I will have to look into selecting the Can bus option for the e39 also, or directly splice into the coolant sensor (if it is the same signal)

2. Alternator, the x2414 has a charge lamp output while the edc 16 does not, so same principle, splice into alternator pin 2 and feed directly to pin, or send over can bus.

3. Charge air temperature, I will mount this in the intake pipe, intercooler or EGR delete flange

4. Fuel temp sensor, same drill, I will either mount this in the fuel feed hose or make an adapter to sit in the fuel filter

5. 4 pin MAF, so must use the m57n MAF.

 

Only thing left to do now is find a edc16 plug to molest, mount the sensors and most importantly do a EWS resync or EWS delete on the new ECU.

 

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ANYONE WANTING TO DO THIS SWAP

M57N E46 AND X5 E53 ECUS HAVE DIFFERENT PINOUTS, SO YOU MUST USE CORRECT LOOMS AND ECUS TOGETHER UNLESS YOU WOULD LIKE TO FRY SOMETHING

Edited by bronx1987

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