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stubobby

Rebuilding my 530i... join me :) - Shout to WAITEE

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Hi everyone - having started my project and doing some reading on here - I am inspired by WAITEE to post my own thread and how its going. 

 

I will try to update everything I have done and we'll see how it going.

 

Firstly the project. 

2001 BMW e39 530i SPORT - Manual Imola RED

The car was purchased by my dad from Grassicks Perth as his first brand new car after retiring from the RN. He keep it garaged and immaculate for many years (as he has with all his cars) but this one benefited from being a second car and miles were kept low as such. FF to 2014 and the car has barely done 50k and he is now hankering after something new - as it happened a 435i Gran Coupe - so I was lucky enough to inherit the car and I used it as a daily for about 14 months - putting it up to about 70k miles. Then - first kid, then new house (3 years of DIY and counting) and 2 more kids...... so the BMW sat in various states of storage/driveway/garage from about December 2015 till April 2020. This year I finally had some fund and time (although both are limited) to restore it. 

 

My plan it to basically rebuild anything that is required and turn it into a sort of "Q" car sleeper without altering its core character or looks.

 

I intend to do

Brakes

Suspension

Exhaust

Bodywork

and eventually a supercharger :)

 

Much can be said about the "right" think to do and you could just get an M car etc etc - but for me this car has sentimental value (my dad is still about  - happy with his 435i and now a totally immaculate 2002) and also much of it is about the journey and just doing it because why not

 

My thanks

Firstly -

Roy at CA/Crest - what a guy. Enthusiastic, helpful, profession and knowledgeable. Cannot thank him enough for his help thus far and supplying all the upgrade kit for the car (aside from BM OEM stuff) with more to come.

Dennis Cooper - have has some chats back and forward with DC and again helpful, knowledgeable - so big thanks

Waitee - Your post has inspired me to crack on and it is also really useful for my own project - FYI - we need to talk diff removal (and sorry for stealing the title - will change if you want)

 

Ongoing Issues - These are the issue where I am finding problems with no clear way fwd and a variety of option - I will update these individually.

Exhaust configuration - TBD

Paint Dilemma - TBD

Differential - See 11th April - I would love to know if anyone has managed this easier them me. The torx diff bolts were corroded down their shaft and were NOT for budging AT ALL. I am sure a high powered impact wrench "may" have helped. But honestly it was a nightmare I resorted to cutting the head off and basically chiselling and punching the flanges apart. 

 

Ongoing Successes - TBC

 

 

So it starts.

18th January 2020

I started by deciding if the car was in a fit state to spend a significant time on axle stands.

So, with the help of Neil (best pal) we put the car in the drive and used some timber and wheel ramps to elevate the front of the car – this was flawed as the car is so low that the front bumper underneath bump stops clashed with the wheel ramps, but it did allow us to get the car high enough to get the trolley jack to the centre jacking point. I raised the car and put on axles stands on the angles front sub frame legs.

We then removed the front mudguards and front inner arches. We also removed the windscreen washer bottle.

This allowed inspection of the front of the sills and all appeared to be sound and solid. I was also able to remove one of the jacking points and feel inside the sill with a finger. There was no evidence of any corrosion or flaking.

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21st March 2020

Into the garage

Made pad pieces for axle stands - I have it about 600mm off the ground in large axles stand - giving plenty of room underneath. 1 man job - this was not an easy job :)

Started putting plus-gas on DIFF bolts

Put car on axle stand – used trolley jack and block of wood

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Started removing exhaust

Removed Centre gusset plate bolts *4 – M8 -13mm Hex Head.

These came out easily with impact driver. The gusset is still attached to the car via the exhaust bracket.

Then I removed the 4 bolts from the 2 exhaust “arm” brackets – all the nuts and bolts snapped (REAR BRACKET) OR needed cut off

Then I removed the Front exhaust diamond flange assembly. This is where the font manifold/CAT assemble downpipes joins the main centre exhaust. This was quite difficult. All the nuts & bolts were seized with corrosion. I cut the 3 accessible ones with a grinder and then used a wrench and socket to shear them and punch the bolt out. The 4th one was not accessible with the grinder so with some plus-gas I managed to undo the nut and as of today the bolt remains, but the exhaust will slide off.

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28th March 2020

After removing the last nut from the fwd most exhaust bracket I was able to drop the entire exhaust system. I did this but placing a trolley jack under the rear box and under the fwd resonator. I placed an axle stand under the “Y” piece, but as the exhaust lowered the offset mass of the “Y” piece started to tip off the axle stand. I relocated an axle stand to the rear box and then  used the trolley jack under the “Y” piece and fwd resonator and lowered the whole exhaust. I then lifted the rear box onto my creeper and dragged the system from beneath the car.

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2nd April 2020 - AND SO THE TROUBLE BEGINS

After this I began to remove the differential/half shaft bolts. I have managed to remove 3 successfully, but 2 of them have started to chew. I have been using PLUSGAS for over a week and it has had multiple sprays, but I suspect they are just too corroded. As this is proving too difficult I have decided that it would be easier to drop the rear sub-frame and this needs to happen anyway.

I removed the RHS rear wheel and then as per the Haynes manual I removed the brake calliper. I slackened off the brake hose before completely removing the calliper. The calliper came away and I removed the brake hose and it is hanging over a funnel and bottle.

I then removed the calliper carrier and then the brake disc. This was stuck fast so I went into the cabin and slackened the hand brake cable. This was difficult as the hand brake was over tight and the access to the nuts was difficult through the handbrake gator space – but I managed with the small Bahco socket set.

The disc was still stuck fast – to after a quick phone call to D (helper dad) I used a standard hammer and a few solid tape and encouragement the disc came free.

I then removed the handbrake assembly by removing the top retaining spring (the lower was stuck) so I removed the 2 90 degree retaining spring clips and the shoes came away.

I finished by undoing the 4 bolts for the stone guard. However you cannot remove the stone guard over the wheel hub so it remains in place – but loose and able to rotate for access.

4th April 2020

I removed the RHS rear wheel arch liner. This was difficult as the small self tapping screws/bolts were all rusted in. I cut the FWD inner one – (yellow) with a dremel – but the heat melted the liner in the local area of the screw so I am now considering if I can re-mould a small patch piece and re-form the liner and then redril the liner with a new hole. I am not sure how to do this as I don’t think any new plastic will adhere to the arch liner.

I also had to remove the under sill full length liner. This was only held in with plastic expanding rivets.

5th April 2020

Removed LHS rear brake – disc corroded on thus the handbrake shoe securing holes were damaged in the process of knocking the disc loose. I also struggled with the brake calliper carrier lower bolt as the access was impeded but the lower wishbone – it would have likely been ok with a spanner rather than a socket.

9th April 2020

Finished removing LHS rear inner wheel arch liner. Again this was difficult due to the self tapping trim bolts/screws. Almost all of the head was corroded and they need filed and then removed with mole-grips

Started to remove the prop-shaft nuts. I had already backed them all off and thought this would be easy enough – but as I started to removed them they binded on the corrosion and the bolt head started rotating. This was a problem because the bolts have round heads. They appear to secure themselves by having a serrated shaft and biting into the internal shaft of the prop-shaft flange. I manage to remove 3 without issue and I then managed to remove another 1 using mole-grips. I then had to cut to off using the air driven grinder. This went smoothly enough and I was able to relieve the prop-shaft from the diff. I did spent quite some time trying with mole-grips prior to cutting off. It is worth noting that this was despite LOTS of plus-gas and wire brushing.

PICS TO BE INSTERTED FOR PROPSHAFT BOLTS

 

10th April 2020

Took the rear subframe down. This was not an easy task. I had already relieved all the items attached to the subframe the last thing to do was to remove the bottom bolt from the LHS rear strut. I put 2 axle stands under the sub frame and used the SGS jack with a block of wood to take the weight. I removed the bump stops from the front mounts of the subframe and then removed the main subframe bolts. This all went east enough. I started to lower the jack and the diff flange was caught on the prop-shaft. So I managed to clear this and support the prop-shaft with an axle stand. I managed to lower the subframe to a height lower than the car – but then it became difficult as it started to tip forward. I managed to remove the axle stands and put 4 blocks of wood beneath the subframe – but at the last moment the subframe slipped from the jack and crashed down. No damage was done as I had put all the timber beneath and it was already quite close to the ground.

11th April 2020

Started to break down the subframe. I began to remove the ball joint nuts from the upper arms. This proved difficult as the spindles have nothing to grip. It was either too small or corroded away. I think there may be a hex on a new one – but these were too corroded. I had to cut the nut off the two fwd smaller arms and was able to remove the larger ones by filing 2 flats on the spindle and gripping with mole-grips. It was not easy. I then moved to the nuts and bolts at the inboard side and again corrosion proved to be an issue – but they came away ok.

I then moved back to the diff bolts. There are badly corroded and are very difficult to remove. I manage to shear a bolt head completely and have had to cut 2 off. I have so far removed 5 from 12.

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POST ON PAUSE - MORE TO COME

 

please feel free to

 

feedback

ask any questions

advise how I should pic the post up - just keep updating

 

all the best

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Great write up and keep it going. ;) Like me, there are probably a few of us who have to some of those jobs at some point and the pictures and comments will be really useful.

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Enjoyed reading this post.  My car is a 530i also.

 

I would add cooling system replacement to the list just for peace of mind and overall age.  All new hoses water pump rad thermostat etc.  That is what a fair few people including me have done as the engine/head can be killed by overheating.

 

The exhausts on these cars last a long time and are well made so I kept mine.

 

Regarding supercharging I would read up on any impact on reliability given the m54b30 is a long stroke engine with a known resonance issue and potential oil pump nut and shaft failure.  More if they are kept at higher revs for significant time though.  Don't know though so it would be interesting to find out.

 

Personally I used to heavily modify car engines years ago but gave up and bought more powerful cars if I wanted them because things kept breaking and more money was needed on strengthened parts than anything.

 

Car looks very nice by the way.

Edited by Dbcrd

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6 minutes ago, Dbcrd said:

Enjoyed reading this post.  My car is a 530i also.

 

I would add cooling system replacement to the list just for peace of mind and overall age.  All new hoses water pump rad thermostat etc.  That is what a fair few people including me have done as the engine/head can be killed by overheating.

 

The exhausts on these cars last a long time and are well made so I kept mine.

 

Regarding supercharging I would read up on any impact on reliability given the m54b30 is a long stroke engine with a known resonance issue and potential oil pump nut and shaft failure.  More if they are kept at higher revs for significant time though.  Don't know though so it would be interesting to find out.

 

Personally I used to heavily modify car engines years ago but gave up and bought more powerful cars if I wanted them because things kept breaking and more money was needed on strengthened parts than anything.

 

Car looks very nice by the way.

So - cooling system all done with new pump/hoses/rad by good ol' dad prior to me taking ownership.

As for SC - I have queried things like this with supplier - but have been assured the engines are so good that it wont be an issue. I will however ensure to cover ALL bases before install. I think ultimately its a risk/reward calc - no supplier will say "yeah crack on mate - zero risk here" any increase in power will shorten the life expectancy of components with the weakest going first I spose

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Hey, nice one Stuart! deffo let me know if you run into any problems or need a hand with bits, as were close by. Good start so far :) I had to take the diff and axles to a metal work with a 50t press to get them out of the diff haha, greased up and went back in fine though, just seazed.

 

look forward to more updates.

Ed

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UPDATE CONT....

My thanks

Firstly -

Roy, Dennis Cooper, Waitee

 

Ongoing Issues - These are the issue where I am finding problems with no clear way fwd and a variety of option - I will update these individually.

 

Exhaust configuration - OK - so..... I want to replace the exhaust with a Supersprint Back box. I have experience of these - I like them - they sound fantastic without being boy race drone. So my original intent was to buy a back box only. and mate to the OEM exhaust - but when I saw the condition of the OEM exhaust I decided attention was required. Dilemma..... to get a full SS system means you have to get a £2.5k manifold and also a £2.5k centre section with racing CATs. The solution I have arrived at is I intend to keep the OEM manifold and CATs and mate the to a SS NON CAT centre. This represents a significant cost saving and i reckon mating them to the diamond flanges will not be too onerous. The ramaining issue i have is the Y piece that is originally on the car is supported from the drivers side - whereas the SS only has a small resonator SO it is hung from 1 less place the the original and when test fitting it hung like a bag of sh*t  - so i am wondering if clamping it up to provide stiffness and to prevent it rotating is crucial to get the position correct - I suspect it is - PICS to Follow

 

Paint Dilemma - TBD

 

Differential - See 11th April - I would love to know if anyone has managed this easier them me. The torx diff bolts were corroded down their shaft and were NOT for budging AT ALL. I am sure a high powered impact wrench "may" have helped. But honestly it was a nightmare I resorted to cutting the head off and basically chiselling and punching the flanges apart. 

Prop Shaft info - TBD

 

Cutting too much - I would be keen to know other peoples experience on a car of this age in Scotland. A few chats with garages have resulted in - "never had any problems with that" type comments - but I have cut a lot due to corrosion. Is this to be expected?

 

 

Ongoing Successes - TBC

...

 

On the 12th APRIL I made a recap - and this was to keep my own diary up to date - it included all the things I had done - I can expand if anyone wants to know more.

ORDER OF REMOVAL – From memory

1.       Front Mudguards

2.       Front arch Liners

3.       Exhaust

4.       RHS Rear Brakes

5.       Xenon Height switch

6.       RHS Lower strut bolt

7.       RHS hand brake outer cable

8.       RHS rear inner arch and under sill liner

9.       RHS ABS & Brake wear sensor switches

10.   LHS Brakes

11.   LHS lower Strut bolt

12.   LHS rear inner arch and under sill liner

13.   Prop shaft bolts

14.   SUBFRAME        

a.       Handbrake cables need attention here

b.      Subframe bump stops

c.       4-off Subframe Bolts

15.   Upper control arms / wishbones – 4-off

16.   Diff Bolts (part complete at time of writing)

 

9th May 2020

Diff packed up and sent off to be rebuilt with LSD - before and after wire brushing and after packing

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19th July 2020

 

Neil came over again and we proceeded to remove

Various Heat Shields

Prop Shaft

Fuel Tank

Beak lines

Hand brake cables

Starting with the heat shields the came away with a variety of self-tapping screws and push on clips. Most of these were rusty so will need to refer to REALOEM when refitting to use correct fasteners etc.

After Heat Shields Neil removed the prop-shaft. This was a “simple case” of removing the 3 prop shaft bolts from the gearbox output shaft and lifting the prop-shaft out. There are 3 bolts from the rubber donut to the gearbox and 3 from securing the donut to the prop-shaft. The prop-shaft alignment bush was broken, appearing as if someone else had tried to remove it previously, but dad sourced a similar picture showing similar symptoms so perhaps this is a common failure. Latterly it appeared that, having spoken to an independent specialist, dad discovered it is a common failure once the prop-shaft donut begins to wear.

Once the heat shields and prop-shaft were down we set about removing the fuel tank. The fuel system is slightly complicated but the Haynes manual has a good schematic. All the hoses need to be removed and they were fasted with one use “ear” clips. These were cut with either nail puller or the dremel.

Various Pictures showing FUEL TANK now removed. At this point it will be important to get more pictures with reference points for clips and hangers etc for heat shields, handbrake cables, brake lines, etc etc

We also removed the rear bumper which was straight forward.

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After the fuel tank was removed we had to empty the fuel. There was a lot more than anticipated, approximately 25 ltrs. We drained into a clean-ish bucket and then filtered through kitchen paper to a jerry-can then distributed to the Kawasaki and the Mazda.

Then we removed the brake pipes to the rear of the car. These came away easy enough. They were held down the RHS of the car with small machine screws and flat plate brackets.

 

1st August 2020

Neil came over again and we began with removing the prop-shaft alignment bearing. I had already watched a few videos and removed the rubber oil seal, so with his blind bearing removal tool the bearing came out relatively easily.

We then proceeded to dismantle the front end suspension and brakes. This was fairly standard. The brakes came away as expected although the carrier bolts were fairly tough – but this is as they should be because the have thread lock. After which we moved to the steering are ball joint. This was quit difficult due to the ball joint splitter being too small. Neil opened it up with the grinder and it fit a little better and was then successful at splitting the ball joint. We then moved to the inner bolts of the front and rear control arms and proceeded to remove them from the car. After which we removed the top 3 bolts for the suspension top mount and then dropped the entire unit of front strut and spring, wheel carrier and bearing, control arms and wheel carrier.

Below are a series of pictures showing the RHS front coroner dismantle

I also dismantled much of the interior simply to get the rear shocks out as they are below the parcel shelf - what a nightmare. 

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APPROX. MID AUGUST

Wire brushed and polished on of the rear wishbones

Dismantled the RHS front Wheel carrier – removing the 4 wheel bearing bolts and hammering out the 2 control arms. These came out complete with the spacers/bushes. I was able to break the taper by applying the ball joint splitter and applying heat. I also pressed out a nearing from the other rear wishbone.

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Saturday 24th October

Set about organising sub-frame parts and checking all the bags – all seemed in order

Hung the exhaust to get an idea of how I can mount the OEM manifold to the SS centre pipe. This looks like it is quite doable – and the decision was taken to leave this project for the time being and purchase exhaust components and make it up when the car is rebuilt. Possibly working on it when the engine is out. Then set about removing the front bumper. The LHS torx bolt was seized so had to remove quite a lot of ducting to get to the impact absorbers and remove the whole assembly from the car. Managed to separate the bumper from the impact absorber but unfortunately shearing the bolt.

 

Sunday 25th October

Broke the bumper down to its various components and managed to drill out the seized sheared thread. 

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UNDIARISED EVENTS

Along with dates above - I have also grabbed some time when I can to press out various bushes and break down various control arms, wheel carriers and bearings etc etc. I have a bearing sleeve kit with threaded rods it is good but no substitute for a press and I have had to become quite creative which has yielded results but not with out the odd casualty - namely the M8 threaded rod is gubbed.... 

Below it also how I got my hub nut out - bolted the hub back to wheel and strapped said wheel to my bench and used a long pipe - very effective....

Extra pic of SS vs OEM manifold and the mating I need to carry out

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Think that is me more or less up to date - any comments / advice welcome especially on the "Ongoing Issues"

 

thanks

 

PS - can someone identify these collars on REAL OEM or another - pretty sure I wasnt supposed to knock them out but I did

 

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Edited by stubobby

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Fantastic work. I got myself a spare rear subframe from the scrap yard for new bushes and a clean up then lowered just the subframe to give the rear and a good going over. Let me know if you need the old subframe as I have no use for it now

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good work.

 

regarding exhaust I would say keep the central resonator or you will get nasty drone in the cabin, I opted for straight pipe from the resonator back, and sometimes I wish I had put a small backbox on there, but 90% of the time theres no drone, just certain speeds/rpm mixes, basically when Fannys on the M8 are doing 50 and my car is like... you want 4th... no 5th... no 4th... argh boot it! lol

 

which tori diff bolts are you referring to? I see you got the shafts of anyway, I ended up at a metal work place with a 50t press to get them of as I couldn't manage.

 

Where you getting the LSD? and how much? are you also changing ratio?

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On 17/12/2020 at 19:27, waitee said:

good work.

 

regarding exhaust I would say keep the central resonator or you will get nasty drone in the cabin, I opted for straight pipe from the resonator back, and sometimes I wish I had put a small backbox on there, but 90% of the time theres no drone, just certain speeds/rpm mixes, basically when Fannys on the M8 are doing 50 and my car is like... you want 4th... no 5th... no 4th... argh boot it! lol

 

which tori diff bolts are you referring to? I see you got the shafts of anyway, I ended up at a metal work place with a 50t press to get them of as I couldn't manage.

 

Where you getting the LSD? and how much? are you also changing ratio?

 

I will get some pics of the exhaust up shortly - but it already bought and the plan is in motion and if above turns out to be true I will get something made and installed..... besides don't expect a drone from my silky smooth straight 6 - not a big cumbersome and noisy V8 ;):D:D

 

The torx bolt I had real trouble with are the ones that secure the drive shafts to the diff output shafts. I defy anyone to do much better - they were simply corroded in there down the lenth of the shaft.... maybe (MAYBE) with a really doos impact wrench and some heat I might have been more successful - but it was a nightmare. 

 

LSD is coming from ROY at CREST - it is a WAVETRAC and I am also inserting a 3:15 ratio with the rebuild so should make it exciting to drive along with the short shift kit.

 

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So over the last few days I have been cleaning up the aluminium parts of the suspension. I would be interested to know people's thoughts on the best way to preserve/protect going fwd. I have basically spent the time wire brushing them to clean all the crud off. The wheel carriers have suffered galvanic corrosion due to contact with the brake carrier and the wheel bearing housing. I am not concerned about this from a functional or structural point of view BUT not sure how to protect them going fwd as I can see the advantage of powder coating but not convinced its the correct way ahead due to all the machined faces and interface points..... open to chat.

 

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1 hour ago, stubobby said:

So over the last few days I have been cleaning up the aluminium parts of the suspension. I would be interested to know people's thoughts on the best way to preserve/protect going fwd. I have basically spent the time wire brushing them to clean all the crud off. The wheel carriers have suffered galvanic corrosion due to contact with the brake carrier and the wheel bearing housing. I am not concerned about this from a functional or structural point of view BUT not sure how to protect them going fwd as I can see the advantage of powder coating but not convinced its the correct way ahead due to all the machined faces and interface points..... open to chat.

 

IMG_1634.jpg.7d13eff03b9f68e9bd40bddc649af70d.jpgIMG_8863.JPG.f05c223a14d5bcf9feb3d08b00648206.JPGIMG_8862.JPG.049dbb48d76081a08d34fb266cb4dcda.JPGIMG_8864.JPG.28ccadbf88566020addfd40801b660aa.JPGIMG_8865.JPG.9491976e7593b46357a0631dd0dfaeec.JPGIMG_8866.JPG.89ab19805ced12aa2b8c73aa1c2ebfd2.JPG

 

Wow; great job!

 

Personally I'd leave them as is; they've lasted this long and are still in perfect health. Even more so now you've cleaned them up to that extent

 

They'll outlive your ownership of the car I reckon ;) 

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Hi Stubobby,

 

Some excellent updates there and overview of your journey with the car's restoration ! All the oily and mechanical stuff I'm sure you will get good help from experienced and knowledgeable members to get things done well and in the way you'd like! 

 

When it comes to customising, modifying and upgrades, there's a good number of routes and products you can go for and I'm happy to help where I can :)

 

Just a few examples of Imola examples ;

 

Alpina%2019%20inch%202%20to%203%20piece%
Alpina%2019%20inch%202%20to%203%20piece%
E39%20Alpine%20White%20amp%20IR_zps4of8o
PImolaRHartgeClassic191_zps8d808062.png
PImolaRHartgeClassic191_zpse0a2e5e7.jpeg

E39%20Interior%20Red%20Trim%202_zpsvjt5q

 

When modified classily, the E39 does look sublime ! As you're considering a supercharger, then I'd say to ensure you uprate the braking system initially and then 'add the power' - ideally, both in one go along with a suitable suspension upgrade too. That extra power you'll be busy exploiting as often as you can, means higher speeds achieved much faster, so you need to stop just as quickly and you'd want the car to handle better when using that extra power enthusiastically !

 

If there's more sought after, more rare and harder to find items you may want, drop me another line when you're ready !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

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On 24/12/2020 at 16:15, DennisCooper said:

Hi Stubobby,

 

Some excellent updates there and overview of your journey with the car's restoration ! All the oily and mechanical stuff I'm sure you will get good help from experienced and knowledgeable members to get things done well and in the way you'd like! 

 

When it comes to customising, modifying and upgrades, there's a good number of routes and products you can go for and I'm happy to help where I can :)

 

Just a few examples of Imola examples ;

 

Alpina%2019%20inch%202%20to%203%20piece%
Alpina%2019%20inch%202%20to%203%20piece%
E39%20Alpine%20White%20amp%20IR_zps4of8o
PImolaRHartgeClassic191_zps8d808062.png
PImolaRHartgeClassic191_zpse0a2e5e7.jpeg

E39%20Interior%20Red%20Trim%202_zpsvjt5q

 

When modified classily, the E39 does look sublime ! As you're considering a supercharger, then I'd say to ensure you uprate the braking system initially and then 'add the power' - ideally, both in one go along with a suitable suspension upgrade too. That extra power you'll be busy exploiting as often as you can, means higher speeds achieved much faster, so you need to stop just as quickly and you'd want the car to handle better when using that extra power enthusiastically !

 

If there's more sought after, more rare and harder to find items you may want, drop me another line when you're ready !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

 

Hi Dennis

 

We've spoken on & off over the years via messenger - so upgrades are as follows - all in the loft ready to go on... :)

 

Bilstein B12 kit with eibach Pro-kit springs

Eibach ARBs

Rogue engineering SSK

Ground Control Adjustable drop links

Powerflex all round - mostly purple - but black for DIFF & Subframe

Wavetrac LSB with new crown and pinion at 3:15

Short Shift Kit

Supersprint backbox, rear section and centre section

STOPTECH slotted discs and pads (OEM size Spec) - SEE BBK Post for other chat.

Full respray and underbody treatment.

 

think thats it for this time round

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

Interesting thread - nice car!

 

So hang on - eldest around 5/6 now and you have time for this shit?!! Awesome. So, only about three years to go for me and maybe I'll get back into my car! :) There is hope! Maybe I should keep it after all then? Still need to save it from rust cancer or it'll be very dead before I get my me time back!

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1 hour ago, Liam79 said:

Hi,

 

Interesting thread - nice car!

 

So hang on - eldest around 5/6 now and you have time for this shit?!! Awesome. So, only about three years to go for me and maybe I'll get back into my car! :) There is hope! Maybe I should keep it after all then? Still need to save it from rust cancer or it'll be very dead before I get my me time back!

 

yeah I have 3 kids - 5, 3 and 4 months.... not gonna lie - its quite tough getting out to the garage

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Well actually I do get out there a bit - but only to fix the fleet lol! Currently rebuilding the kinda-forced-on-us Ford S-Max front suspension. Not much fun!

 

So about three years, a kitchen, another bathroom, a play house, and hopefully I'll be back on the bimmer :)

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