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Nick E

Rough start this morning

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Moved the car this morning, and there was a really rough, lumpy idle that shook the car again. EML on straight away.

 

Drove the car round the block, switched off, plugged in the code reader and started up. No lumpiness, the EML went off, and she's idling fine.

 

However, it did diagnose misfires on 4 cylinders. 

 

Ran a few other checks on airflow, mass airsensor etc and got all this.. have cleared the fault codes.

 

Can anyone decipher any of this for me?

 

Cylinder 3 has higher readings, and that was the one we recently changed the coil pack on. 

 

Will take her out for a blat later to see if anything shakes out.

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Edited by Nick E

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2 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

Clear codes; take it out for an Italian tune up and see how it fares after that

 

Hahaha.. Yes. On the menu for today

Edited by Nick E

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Blat done. That's not a misfiring engine.

 

Odd. Happened once before, on a cold morning, with the nose pointing slightly up slope. Fuel injection shouldn't make gravity a problem though.

 

Will keep an eye on it.

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49 minutes ago, Nick E said:

Blat done. That's not a misfiring engine.

 

Odd. Happened once before, on a cold morning, with the nose pointing slightly up slope. Fuel injection shouldn't make gravity a problem though.

 

Will keep an eye on it.

 

Gunked up plugs maybe? 

 

Might be that the Italian tune up and getting thr engine up to temp has cleared whatever cack has caused this. 

 

Hopefully that's it sorted 

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17 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Gunked up plugs maybe? 

 

Might be that the Italian tune up and getting thr engine up to temp has cleared whatever cack has caused this. 

 

Hopefully that's it sorted 

 

Hope so too. If only the stinky burning oil fix was as easy!

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17 minutes ago, Wagbo said:

Are they easy to use....plug and play ?

 

Easy to clear error codes.. and finding faults too to fix!

And cost of creator c310+?

 

Yes. Plug into the OBD port inside the car., turn it on, and go. I think it was £50. What year is yours?

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Possible that weak battery is causing EML light on start up and misfires are due to throttle body?

I had similar car shaking rough idle with EML when I had old battery and a series of many short trips. I didn’t get misfire codes however. During that time, after reading on this forum and others, came to conclusion that these throttle bodies are sensitive to whatever occurs during start up with a weakened battery. 

 

 

Edited by Seweryn528

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Misfires on multiple cylinders when cold that disappear when warm point towards a vacuum leak. Especially on colder days, the injection system will enrich the mixture but if more air is going into the engine than measured by the air flow meter, it will throw the mixture off enough to cause misfires. Once the oxygen sensors warm up enough to be used, the injection system can adjust for the extra air going into the engine and the problem disappears (the negative value on the idle air integrator points in this direction too, it means the idle control valve is closed more than normal to maintain idle)

 

In order of likeliness inspect: all vacuum hoses, check for any tears in the air intake snorkel, crack in oil seperator or it's associated hoses, blind plugs on manifold, vapor purge solenoid. The DISA o-ring can rarely be an issue as well.

I've taken the habit of replacing every rubber hose/o-ring at once on these engines, it's amazing how smooth they run when everything is properly sealed, even with high mileage.

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20 minutes ago, Carlton said:

Misfires on multiple cylinders when cold that disappear when warm point towards a vacuum leak. Especially on colder days, the injection system will enrich the mixture but if more air is going into the engine than measured by the air flow meter, it will throw the mixture off enough to cause misfires. Once the oxygen sensors warm up enough to be used, the injection system can adjust for the extra air going into the engine and the problem disappears (the negative value on the idle air integrator points in this direction too, it means the idle control valve is closed more than normal to maintain idle)

 

In order of likeliness inspect: all vacuum hoses, check for any tears in the air intake snorkel, crack in oil seperator or it's associated hoses, blind plugs on manifold, vapor purge solenoid. The DISA o-ring can rarely be an issue as well.

I've taken the habit of replacing every rubber hose/o-ring at once on these engines, it's amazing how smooth they run when everything is properly sealed, even with high mileage.

 

Absolutely this; but think the OP has already covered these bases when he first got the car... Could be wrong though 

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On 12/11/2020 at 9:48 AM, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Absolutely this; but think the OP has already covered these bases when he first got the car... Could be wrong though 

 

Nothing was mentioned by the garage at the service and inspection after I bought it Dan. Will be giving them all a checkover though.

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Didn't check the hoses yet, but I did take the sensor off the MAF/disable it, and the idle was a lot smoother.

 

Will need to add a new one of those to the parts list for the new year

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15 minutes ago, Nick E said:

Didn't check the hoses yet, but I did take the sensor off the MAF/disable it, and the idle was a lot smoother.

 

Will need to add a new one of those to the parts list for the new year

 

Try cleaning it first; but it's rarely the MAF and more the hoses etc

 

MAF needs to be OEM BMW (or whomever makes it); so it's not cheap and don't use aftermarket ones as they're shite at best

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9 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Try cleaning it first; but it's rarely the MAF and more the hoses etc

 

MAF needs to be OEM BMW (or whomever makes it); so it's not cheap and don't use aftermarket ones as they're shite at best

 

Yup, read that from your earlier posts. Will give the hoses a good check over later.

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