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Mani59

My 2003 E39 530i Sport Champagne Edition II thread

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Hi all,

 

Following on from my topic here, I thought I would create a new project thread for it so here goes!  Please excuse the rather poor phone photos, I'll get some decent ones when the weather permits.

 

Here is my 2003 E39 530i Sport Champagne Edition II with just 38,000 genuine miles which I purchased just a couple of weeks ago.  The car has been in storage for the last few years hence the low mileage.

 

First job on the list was to get it booked into my local BMW Independent Specialist to undertake a Inspection 2, brake fluid and coolant change, front brakes pads and discs replacement and identify a vibration from the steering wheel when braking from around 70MPH.

The specialist came back and said that its the front control arms that need replacing so that was done and has fixed the problem.  Report from the specialist on the car was great!

 

Whilst overall the car was in excellent condition on collection,  I have given it a quick detail myself to assess the overall condition of it.  Paintwork wise, its in great condition with just a few fine scratches which I am sure will machine polish out.  Inside, again excellent condition with just a general clean required.

 

ae28b38a-4564-4967-8b4e-bb15e016dee6_rw_

 

f6389758-b74a-409f-a11d-c4e9f3ec0c86_rw_

 

8153eb56-38a7-45e9-bde2-0c769fc76863_rw_

 

Photo below is minus its instrument cluster which was in for repair at the time of the photo.

dfd39a4d-4884-4522-893c-02d615b08abc_rw_

 

 

 

The next issue on the list was the instrument cluster since the lower pixels had died.  After removing the cluster, I handed it in to a local car electronics company who thankfully were able to replace the display and its now fully working.

 

Before:

802aeee7-cd0e-4f95-9dc7-4ca4d03f6cb0_rw_

 

After:

cf597d88-2e0d-4768-8261-fa79543754f3_rw_

 

Last week, I tracked down the previous owner of the car and had a really good conversation with him.  He explained to me why it had been in storage, how he found the car, how much he originally paid for it back in 2003 as well as some other useful information. He really did look after it well.  

 

Next jobs:

 

The car is running 10 year old tyres on it, Toyo on the rears and Hankooks on the front.  Whilst there are clearly oodles of tread left, I am a little uncomfortable driving on tyres that are so old.  So with Black Friday yesterday, I decided to invest in a full set of Falken FK510s which seem to have good reviews.  These will be fitted next week.

 

There is a vibration coming from the steering wheel when driving at about 70MPH.  The specialist have said it needs wheel alignment but when they went to do this, the tie rod ends were seized so they need replacing too.  So I'll get round to this pretty quickly especially since it will be running the new tyres soon so I do not want uneven tyre wear.

 

Cooling system replacement (top and bottom hose, water pump and possibly radiator). 

 

The navigation screen is not working.  Whilst the CD player and radio work, the screen does not come on.  I'll probably replace it with another of the same second hand unit.

 

Full leather restoration.  This is a long term goal to do since the leather is in excellent condition for the age but I would like to treat it to some refurbishment and remove some of the cracks on the seats.

 

Professional detail.  Probably in the spring/summer.

 

That's it for now!

 

Thanks, Mani

 

 

 

Edited by Mani59

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Great looking car with unbelievable mileage but if you’ve verified it well done. I’d definitely be going over it with a fine tooth comb as anything that is stored for that long is likely to have some bits that need replacing through sheer lack of use. Smart move replacing the tyres and I’d be using something similar to gummi pflege on all the rubber.

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Thanks Barry.  Yes I did definitely verify the mileage, (HPI, Vcheck, online MOT history backed with the BMW Service History too), so it all stacks up.  

 

I did have the specialist have a good look at it when they had it for the inspection 2 and the only bits I did not mention above that they have also replaced is the PAS tank cap which was leaking a little and a intake hose that was split and needed replacing.  It's just the front tie rods and ends and 4 wheel alignment that is left which I will hopefully get done in the next couple of weeks.

 

After that, then it will be preventative maintenance stuff like the cooling system refresh.  

 

I hope I have made the right decision with the tyres.  It was between the Falken FK510's and Goodyear Asymmetric 5 but I went for the Falken given that it has many more positive reviews from BMW and Mercedes owners..

 

Thanks for reminding me about the seals.  Providing the weather behaves, I will be applying gummi pflege next week! 

Edited by Mani59

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11 hours ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Barry.  Yes I did definitely verify the mileage, (HPI, Vcheck, online MOT history backed with the BMW Service History too), so it all stacks up.  

 

I did have the specialist have a good look at it when they had it for the inspection 2 and the only bits I did not mention above that they have also replaced is the PAS tank cap which was leaking a little and a intake hose that was split and needed replacing.  It's just the front tie rods and ends and 4 wheel alignment that is left which I will hopefully get done in the next couple of weeks.

 

After that, then it will be preventative maintenance stuff like the cooling system refresh.  

 

I hope I have made the right decision with the tyres.  It was between the Falken FK510's and Goodyear Asymmetric 5 but I went for the Falken given that it has many more positive reviews from BMW and Mercedes owners..

 

Thanks for reminding me about the seals.  Providing the weather behaves, I will be applying gummi pflege next week! 

 

Another peace of mind job to do; not expensive or difficult, is to sort the rear vapour barriers on the doors before they do fail and let water into the rear footwells

 

It's a simple case of unclipping the door card, take that off; loosen the lower section of the vapour barrier fully; remove the old, dry & brittle butyl tape, clean the surfaces and replace with new tape, stick it back down and replace the door card

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/W4-00017-Mastic-Sealing-Strip/dp/B0036KG89I/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=w4+mastic&qid=1606642776&sr=8-3

 

30mins for both sides is about right :) 

 

However; it could be that the barriers are still stuck down fast; and if that's the case, then great. But at least you know ;) 

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Thanks Dan, I shall add it to the list of things to do.

 

Tyres are being replaced on Wednesday and then the car is booked in with the specialist to have the tie rod ends replaced and Hunter 4 wheel alignment done on Friday, just in time!

 

Need to start taking a look at the navigation replacement options now.  Since the screen does work on the existing one (albeit blank) and the previous owner confirmed to me that it was when a battery swap out happened that the screen stopped working (after long term storage), I would assume the connections are all OK so I am hoping that if I purchase a second hand unit, it should just hopefully be a matter of taking out the old one and replacing it with the new "old" one.  I shall have to give this some thought. 

 

Thanks.  

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2 hours ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Dan, I shall add it to the list of things to do.

 

Tyres are being replaced on Wednesday and then the car is booked in with the specialist to have the tie rod ends replaced and Hunter 4 wheel alignment done on Friday, just in time!

 

Need to start taking a look at the navigation replacement options now.  Since the screen does work on the existing one (albeit blank) and the previous owner confirmed to me that it was when a battery swap out happened that the screen stopped working (after long term storage), I would assume the connections are all OK so I am hoping that if I purchase a second hand unit, it should just hopefully be a matter of taking out the old one and replacing it with the new "old" one.  I shall have to give this some thought. 

 

Thanks.  

 

That should do it; but undo the boot floor and take all the components apart, clean the contacts and plug them back in :) Amazing what a little bit of jigger-pokery can do ;) 

 

Hopefully the new rod-ends and a 4 wheel Hunter alignment will sort the issues; they certainly did with my touring! 

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Thanks Dan and apologies for the delay in my response, been a super busy last couple of weeks.

 

So some significant work done to the car over the last couple of weeks.

 

New Falken FK510s fitted all round by the Tyres On the Drive company. Good service although the fitter did set the tyres to the wrong pressures.  Easily fixed though.  He did say that the old tyres were starting to perish quite badly so it was good I changed them all out.

 

0a4a2481-20f8-4b02-b6e3-1961592b3295_rw_

 

 

At this stage, I could already feel the difference in the ride and how much more grip and confident the car was.  Slight vibration still present though between 60-70MPH.

 

The next day, it went in to have the tie rod end replacement and 4 wheel hunter alignment done.  Very pleased to report all vibration has now gone and the car drives very smoothly now with no vibration.

I've put some photos of the wheel alignment before/after below.  I am not an expert in these matters but should the new settings in the after results have been symmetrical or in the middle?  As I say, I am an expert in wheel alignment.

 

Before:

 

d1393621-8f5f-41f9-a9d6-8dde2b93c870_rw_

 

 

 

 

After:

d6930249-c939-42d1-981a-21a1284353ef_rw_

 

 

 

I then treated the car to another quick detail using Chemical Guys Blacklight products (I used them on my previous E64 Carbon Black and it was great).

 

 

 

ec330927-0df7-4e14-a5e3-757e63b996d8_rw_

 

cc8d445d-8c76-4210-839a-fe87a5c8b86e_rw_

 

 

d1b96915-eb67-4b76-9229-59eba7167039_rw_

 

152fbedc-bbdb-452f-8492-5c51376834e9_rw_

 

 

Following the quick detail, I liberally applied Gummi Pflege to all of the door, boot and bonnet seals (thanks for the reminder Dan!).

 

So the next job is the navigation.  I am going to give the fuse trick a go first by removing fuse (56/58?) for about 10-15 minutes and popping it back in again and seeing if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks!

 

 

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54 minutes ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Dan and apologies for the delay in my response, been a super busy last couple of weeks.

 

So some significant work done to the car over the last couple of weeks.

 

New Falken FK510s fitted all round by the Tyres On the Drive company. Good service although the fitter did set the tyres to the wrong pressures.  Easily fixed though.  He did say that the old tyres were starting to perish quite badly so it was good I changed them all out.

 

0a4a2481-20f8-4b02-b6e3-1961592b3295_rw_

 

 

At this stage, I could already feel the difference in the ride and how much more grip and confident the car was.  Slight vibration still present though between 60-70MPH.

 

The next day, it went in to have the tie rod end replacement and 4 wheel hunter alignment done.  Very pleased to report all vibration has now gone and the car drives very smoothly now with no vibration.

I've put some photos of the wheel alignment before/after below.  I am not an expert in these matters but should the new settings in the after results have been symmetrical or in the middle?  As I say, I am an expert in wheel alignment.

 

Before:

 

d1393621-8f5f-41f9-a9d6-8dde2b93c870_rw_

 

 

 

 

After:

d6930249-c939-42d1-981a-21a1284353ef_rw_

 

 

 

I then treated the car to another quick detail using Chemical Guys Blacklight products (I used them on my previous E64 Carbon Black and it was great).

 

 

 

ec330927-0df7-4e14-a5e3-757e63b996d8_rw_

 

cc8d445d-8c76-4210-839a-fe87a5c8b86e_rw_

 

 

d1b96915-eb67-4b76-9229-59eba7167039_rw_

 

152fbedc-bbdb-452f-8492-5c51376834e9_rw_

 

 

Following the quick detail, I liberally applied Gummi Pflege to all of the door, boot and bonnet seals (thanks for the reminder Dan!).

 

So the next job is the navigation.  I am going to give the fuse trick a go first by removing fuse (56/58?) for about 10-15 minutes and popping it back in again and seeing if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks!

 

 

In perfect world you would expect them to be symmetrical, but in reality they are never the same on both sides.

Right front wheel toe being at 0.00° looks just in range, because once car is in motion and wheels are having rolling resistance toe is pushed out a bit, so being already at 0.00°, it might change to toe out when driving. Usually toe is set with little positive values (toe in) on on stationary car, and that's how other wheels are set. Thought I'm not an expert, just an enthusiast, so my knowledge might not be perfect, and it's still in green, so should be fine.

Edited by Ray112

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11 hours ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Dan and apologies for the delay in my response, been a super busy last couple of weeks.

 

So some significant work done to the car over the last couple of weeks.

 

New Falken FK510s fitted all round by the Tyres On the Drive company. Good service although the fitter did set the tyres to the wrong pressures.  Easily fixed though.  He did say that the old tyres were starting to perish quite badly so it was good I changed them all out.

 

0a4a2481-20f8-4b02-b6e3-1961592b3295_rw_

 

 

At this stage, I could already feel the difference in the ride and how much more grip and confident the car was.  Slight vibration still present though between 60-70MPH.

 

The next day, it went in to have the tie rod end replacement and 4 wheel hunter alignment done.  Very pleased to report all vibration has now gone and the car drives very smoothly now with no vibration.

I've put some photos of the wheel alignment before/after below.  I am not an expert in these matters but should the new settings in the after results have been symmetrical or in the middle?  As I say, I am an expert in wheel alignment.

 

Before:

 

d1393621-8f5f-41f9-a9d6-8dde2b93c870_rw_

 

 

 

 

After:

d6930249-c939-42d1-981a-21a1284353ef_rw_

 

 

 

I then treated the car to another quick detail using Chemical Guys Blacklight products (I used them on my previous E64 Carbon Black and it was great).

 

 

 

ec330927-0df7-4e14-a5e3-757e63b996d8_rw_

 

cc8d445d-8c76-4210-839a-fe87a5c8b86e_rw_

 

 

d1b96915-eb67-4b76-9229-59eba7167039_rw_

 

152fbedc-bbdb-452f-8492-5c51376834e9_rw_

 

 

Following the quick detail, I liberally applied Gummi Pflege to all of the door, boot and bonnet seals (thanks for the reminder Dan!).

 

So the next job is the navigation.  I am going to give the fuse trick a go first by removing fuse (56/58?) for about 10-15 minutes and popping it back in again and seeing if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Fantastic work again; such a stunning looking car too ;):cool: 

 

Good to hear the vibration is all sorted; exactly the same issues I had with mine. It's sorted now, so time to enjoy driving it more and more :mrgreen:

 

The Hunter alignment results for my touring are detailed in my project; they're not perfect either, but within the tolerances and the car drives superbly 

 

Fingers crossed you get to the bottom of the head un it issues; but still stand by that remove the floor panels in the boot and unplug it all and plug it back in and see how it then behaves, if not go I'd say the BM54 or possibly the nav drive have failed and need replacing.

 

Time to speak to @Baris of Carphonics

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On 13/12/2020 at 11:13, Ray112 said:

In perfect world you would expect them to be symmetrical, but in reality they are never the same on both sides.

Right front wheel toe being at 0.00° looks just in range, because once car is in motion and wheels are having rolling resistance toe is pushed out a bit, so being already at 0.00°, it might change to toe out when driving. Usually toe is set with little positive values (toe in) on on stationary car, and that's how other wheels are set. Thought I'm not an expert, just an enthusiast, so my knowledge might not be perfect, and it's still in green, so should be fine.

 

Thanks Ray, makes sense to me! 

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22 hours ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

Fantastic work again; such a stunning looking car too ;):cool: 

 

Good to hear the vibration is all sorted; exactly the same issues I had with mine. It's sorted now, so time to enjoy driving it more and more :mrgreen:

 

The Hunter alignment results for my touring are detailed in my project; they're not perfect either, but within the tolerances and the car drives superbly 

 

Fingers crossed you get to the bottom of the head un it issues; but still stand by that remove the floor panels in the boot and unplug it all and plug it back in and see how it then behaves, if not go I'd say the BM54 or possibly the nav drive have failed and need replacing.

 

Time to speak to @Baris of Carphonics

 

 

Thanks Dan.

 

Yes I remember reading through your excellent project thread and just refreshed myself on your wheel alignment results.  As you say, so long as it is within the tolerances, there should not be any issues and as I have said, following the replacement tie rod ends, new tyres and alignment, no vibration and the car steers with precision so all good I guess!

 

So today was a rare day with sunshine so I decided to give removing fuse 56 and 58 from the fuse box, leave it out a couple of minutes and then popped it back in again.  After some praying to the relevant Gods, I put the key into the ignition hoping for the screen to fire into life but sadly it did not :(   Is there anything I am doing wrong.  i.e, should I leave the fuses out for longer or lock the car with the fuses out and come back some time later?

 

If not, I think it will be time to try and purchase a working second hand unit (as the supplying dealer is paying for it anyway) since it may well be the unit that has got corrupted.  

 

Thanks!

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4 minutes ago, Mani59 said:

 

 

Thanks Dan.

 

Yes I remember reading through your excellent project thread and just refreshed myself on your wheel alignment results.  As you say, so long as it is within the tolerances, there should not be any issues and as I have said, following the replacement tie rod ends, new tyres and alignment, no vibration and the car steers with precision so all good I guess!

 

So today was a rare day with sunshine so I decided to give removing fuse 56 and 58 from the fuse box, leave it out a couple of minutes and then popped it back in again.  After some praying to the relevant Gods, I put the key into the ignition hoping for the screen to fire into life but sadly it did not :(   Is there anything I am doing wrong.  i.e, should I leave the fuses out for longer or lock the car with the fuses out and come back some time later?

 

If not, I think it will be time to try and purchase a working second hand unit (as the supplying dealer is paying for it anyway) since it may well be the unit that has got corrupted.  

 

Thanks!

 

As said; lift the boot floor and get to the components (or is the BM amp and nav in the side cubby); wherever they are; unplug them, remove them and give all the contacts a good clean and then see if there's any life

 

Do you get any flicker of the screen, is the orange power light on etc?

 

It's generally the parts in the boot that are the issue, not the head unit itself.

 

If still unsure; speak to Baris at Carphonics about what you may be able to do

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11 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

As said; lift the boot floor and get to the components (or is the BM amp and nav in the side cubby); wherever they are; unplug them, remove them and give all the contacts a good clean and then see if there's any life

 

Do you get any flicker of the screen, is the orange power light on etc?

 

It's generally the parts in the boot that are the issue, not the head unit itself.

 

If still unsure; speak to Baris at Carphonics about what you may be able to do

 

Thanks Dan once again!

 

They are in the side cubby thing.  I will give what you say a go and report back!  

To be honest, I am not sure if I have ever seen the orange square LED lit.  I thought I did but looking at this photo below when I first bought the car with ignition on, it is not lit.  The only LED lit is the one at the top.  The radio and CD work fine though.  I think there is also power going to the screen as it does flicker when you switch the car on / off (i.e, back light seems to work).

 

But thanks again, I will give your suggestion a go.

 

a28a565e-5497-4751-ba55-d18101260d3f_rw_

 

 

I did email Baris a few weeks ago but did not get a response.  I'll give him a gentle chaser if the above does not work out :)

 

Thanks!

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Hi all,

 

So this morning I removed the DVD navigation system from the boot.  I first ejected the DVD and that came out with no issues.

 

3ffd41e6-c1ff-48b8-90d7-d37df253cb35_rw_

 

609bacca-7780-41b9-b051-1d1a7a7609ff_rw_

 

 

 

Having removed the unit (clearly still the original one looking at the stickers / VIN sticker on it), I then cleaned the contacts at the back of the unit though all the of the pins looked fine with no dirt or anything in them.  I did the same for the blue and purple cables (and antenna).

After that, I put it all back in again, fired the car up, put the DVD back in and raced over to the screen.  Unfortunately, it made no difference which is a great shame :(

 

So I am not sure what to do next.  Either replace the DVD unit with a working second hand one. Or find a aftermarket system that looks as OEM as possible like something from here https://audiotechdirect.com/oem-style-units/bmw/

 

Thanks!  

 

 

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Just be careful with these aftermarket units

 

a) you need to make sure that they are for an E39 and not the X5, as they've have slightly different fascias and they don't sit flush and b.) you need to ensure that they will fit the cavity of the OEM head unit without the need to cut into anything

 

I've personally not gone down this route as I don't like their finish and display; and I find the Grom Audio BT3 kit does exactly what I need it to; I don't like built in nav that you have to constantly look down at either. But obviously I've got a working head unit (albeit it needs a new screen as there are some dead pixels on it); something I'll do via Baris next year; as well as an upgraded BM54 amp etc

 

You also need to factor in that you need to connect the head unit to the parts in the rear; which is more of a faff in a saloon than it is in a touring; unless you just want to power the front speakers... 

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Thanks Dan.

 

The more I looked at aftermarket OEM systems, the more I just want the original OEM one to work!  I have no interest in Bluetooth, Google Maps, YouTube, steaming music, etc.  As long as Classic FM works, I am happy :)

 

So I contacted Baris again and have sent him my navigation DVD system today.  He said he should be able to fix it so lets hope so!

 

Thanks!

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6 minutes ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Dan.

 

The more I looked at aftermarket OEM systems, the more I just want the original OEM one to work!  I have no interest in Bluetooth, Google Maps, YouTube, steaming music, etc.  As long as Classic FM works, I am happy :)

 

So I contacted Baris again and have sent him my navigation DVD system today.  He said he should be able to fix it so lets hope so!

 

Thanks!

 

That sounds perfect :)

 

I'm the same, just want OEM and happy to keep it that way, but the Grom Audio kit is superb for hands free and music playback, so that for me is a great addition. 

 

I'll be getting Baris to sort the bits for me come the New Year... 

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So a kind of good update!

 

I sent the DVD navigation system to Baris and he checked it out and said it is working fine.  So I received that back yesterday.

It was good to know that the DVD system is working fine so I could eliminate that.  Baris thought it could be the TV tuner but unlikely. 

 

After a lot more reading on here and the M5board where @RichardP is an absolute expert on such things, I decided to give the bypassing of the TV tuner and the Traffic Master system a go.  I took the blue port out of the Traffic Master system and plugged that directly into the DVD navigation system and guess what, it worked!!

 

1c2a25f5-f3d2-496e-959e-1410a3c776ba_rw_

 

 

So that was a very successful test. 

 

However my problem is how do I keep the situation permanent?  The blue cable that I have taken out of the Traffic Master and plugged into the navigation system is too short to reach the top bay where the navigation system lives.  The cable seems to go into a cable tie and then deep into the back of the car.  Some photos below where I have indicated the cable route in green (Traffic Master port circled in green).

 

03b6ac06-94b5-4ee1-9d7d-053acca447b9_rw_

 

 

72d2a358-5596-4635-9c8c-8f8401545d60_rw_

 

 

 

Really appreciate any help on this! 

 

Thanks all! 

 

 

 

 

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So a further update with excellent news.

 

The fantastic Baris got in touch with me just now and advised to plug the blue port cable from the Traffic Master straight into the blue port on the TV module and to reconnect the navigation DVD system as it was originally.

 

I did that and it worked!  This is brilliant since I now have a working screen with a secure navigation DVD system in the boot!  As mentioned earlier, I am not too fussed about losing the Traffic Master, Navigation or Television as I would not use any of them anyway.

 

I am just happy to have the screen back and be able to select the radio station and set the time/date!

 

610ff7bd-a9c5-452f-8b62-b947fafa5cb2_rw_

 

Another huge recommendation from me for Baris at Carphonics.

 

Thanks all!

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Today's job was to fix the washer jets which were not really working.  The right side was just drizzling with water and the left side was not working at all.

 

I remember from years ago when I owned my first E39 that the washer jet connector pipes under the bonnet come off easily in really cold weather so after some Googling and searching online to refresh myself, I had a look and sure enough, the connectors had come loose on the left side and only 1 connected on the right side.  After some satisfying clicks to connect them back up again and checking all of the other connectors, I tested out the jets and it was all working again.

 

27353417-891c-4d43-8ec9-9a294062e01a_rw_

 

23444e57-8e8b-4aef-86b1-85389d584dcc_rw_

 

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36 minutes ago, Mani59 said:

Today's job was to fix the washer jets which were not really working.  The right side was just drizzling with water and the left side was not working at all.

 

I remember from years ago when I owned my first E39 that the washer jet connector pipes under the bonnet come off easily in really cold weather so after some Googling and searching online to refresh myself, I had a look and sure enough, the connectors had come loose on the left side and only 1 connected on the right side.  After some satisfying clicks to connect them back up again and checking all of the other connectors, I tested out the jets and it was all working again.

 

27353417-891c-4d43-8ec9-9a294062e01a_rw_

 

23444e57-8e8b-4aef-86b1-85389d584dcc_rw_

 

 

Had exactly the same issue last week... 

 

But not sure if they'd been fitted properly & tightly after being apart at the body shop... 

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Thanks Dan, it's clearly a weather related issue for both our E39s to happen.

 

So I am now looking at getting the cooling system refreshed within the next few weeks at my local BMW specialist.  When it was last in with them for the wheel alignment, I asked them to take a look at the cooling system and quote for a refresh.  So according to them, they will be replacing the thermostat, water pump, both coolant hoses, drive belt and expansion tank followed by a coolant pressure test.

Although it is the original radiator (sticker on it says 2003), the radiator looks fine so no point in changing that at this time.

 

I've read on a few other forums that if the cooling system is working fine, then do not interfere with it if it is not broken.  However I know the cooling systems are pretty weak on these engines so am I still right in my thinking on getting it refreshed?  Even though the mileage is pretty low, the car is nearly 20 years old.

 

Thanks.

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12 hours ago, Mani59 said:

Thanks Dan, it's clearly a weather related issue for both our E39s to happen.

 

So I am now looking at getting the cooling system refreshed within the next few weeks at my local BMW specialist.  When it was last in with them for the wheel alignment, I asked them to take a look at the cooling system and quote for a refresh.  So according to them, they will be replacing the thermostat, water pump, both coolant hoses, drive belt and expansion tank followed by a coolant pressure test.

Although it is the original radiator (sticker on it says 2003), the radiator looks fine so no point in changing that at this time.

 

I've read on a few other forums that if the cooling system is working fine, then do not interfere with it if it is not broken.  However I know the cooling systems are pretty weak on these engines so am I still right in my thinking on getting it refreshed?  Even though the mileage is pretty low, the car is nearly 20 years old.

 

Thanks.

 

It's worth doing IMO, peace of mind and all that

 

Parts aren't expensive either, no need to go OEM BMW at all for it

 

Walher stat; Meyle water pump, Febi top & bottom hose, Behr expansion tank (although again, if that's fine, leave it be) and yes, whilst it's all out, do both the belts too

 

Comma G48 is the coolant you need :) 

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12 hours ago, Mani59 said:

Although it is the original radiator (sticker on it says 2003), the radiator looks fine so no point in changing that at this time.

 

 

The specialist can advise, but just because the outside looks fine doesn't mean the inside is as well. Having said that, my 2004 E60 was still on it's original radiator late last year when I sold it.

Edited by Tuvoc

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On 23/01/2021 at 09:05, d_a_n1979 said:

 

It's worth doing IMO, peace of mind and all that

 

Parts aren't expensive either, no need to go OEM BMW at all for it

 

Walher stat; Meyle water pump, Febi top & bottom hose, Behr expansion tank (although again, if that's fine, leave it be) and yes, whilst it's all out, do both the belts too

 

Comma G48 is the coolant you need :) 

 

On 23/01/2021 at 09:10, Tuvoc said:

 

The specialist can advise, but just because the outside looks fine doesn't mean the inside is as well. Having said that, my 2004 E60 was still on it's original radiator late last year when I sold it.

 

 

Thanks guys for your input.  Agreed, it is peace of mind and its something that needs to be done to help with the longevity and all that so its booked in for later this week to have the bits I mentioned above done at my local specialist.  Providing the snow melts and I can get out of the drive :D

 

I know they had a good look at the radiator when it was with them last time and said it was fine but I'll ask them to double check again.

 

Thanks!

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