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Changy

Front Wheel bearing replacement guide?

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The front wheel bearing needs replacing, and I intend to get on with it myself. I assume it is nothing too complicated?

 

Is there a decent walkthrough available? I may have asked this before, but my brain is currently scrambled. The Autodoc videos on YouTube annoy me with their music!

 

TIA

Changy

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https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60/41-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_RWD_Replacement/41-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_RWD_Replacement.htm

 

Pelican parts can be good for guides, theres sometimes differences with them being LHD/4WD depending what you're looking for.

 

I would say if you have new bolts with the bearing, grind or cut the exposed ends off the bolts if you have the tools sitting. Don't go nuts with it as you don't want to melt the ABS sensor (or remove it to be sure). Cleaning them up and spraying them is fine though, just saves them binding up on you when they're halfway out.

 

As the link says mark the nuts on the top mount for alignment. Also watch the wheel arch when you're moving the strut past it, I find the paint on these chips when you look at it! Check your top mount while the strut is out too, if it's good it won't hurt to give it another bit of grease.

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I took a slightly different approach when doing mine. I left the strut in place and dropped the hub carrier off the strut. In saying that I’d replaced the arms and shocks just prior to the bearings so knew all the bolts would come loose. Rough steps:

jack up

wheel off

track rod end off

undo level sensor depending on side

remove strut bolt, arb carrier and brake hose bracket

remove brake calliper/carrier and disc

remove abs sensor 

unbolt both arms from subframe

drop carrier from strut. Need to wedge something into the clamp to free it

remove bearings and clean mating surface.

in true Haynes fashion the assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure to tighten all bushes with the suspension in normal position ( I jacked up the hub carrier till the car lifted off the stand)

An impact driver is a god send for doing this, especially when removing the bearing bolts.

also worth mentioning that it’s best not to cheap out on bearings as there are reports of abs errors with cheap bearings.

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Sounds like a decent alternative @RandomName

 

I did have a bit of trouble freeing off the arms from the subframe on mine but she is/was a bit of a rusty old gal, despite what the bodywork on top showed. Alignment would still be worth getting checked afterwards but your way may be a less intrusive method, the front arms don't have eccentric adjusters like the rear.

 

I remember changing the front bearings on my e46. Wheel off, brakes off, nut off and chap off the old bearing, new one on, tighten and refit. Complexity can be difficult, at least it's not something you have to be doing every month or so! (*whispering f*cking e60...* :rolleyes::lol:)

 

If you ever have the rear bearings (m27x1.5) to do I could rent out the tool for pulling the driveshafts back into the hubs. I wrecked a bearing trying to chap a clean driveshaft into a clean hub, I thought it would go fine but it didn't. With the tool I'm confident in it's replacement, it slid into place without any big shocks to the bearing. At least the front bearings are an easier job!

Edited by FLX

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Don't use cheap bearings....I bought mine in a hurry I thought they were FAG but that was just in the title on ebay, lower down in small print was the actual manufacturer. They looked OK so I fitted them. They didn't last 12 months before there was play. I then sourced some genuine FAG parts and had to replace them again.

 

I didn't take the strut out, just dropped the hub off the bottom.

 

Make sure you use a 6 sided impact socket on the wheel bearing bolts. They're really tight and you don't want to round off the bolts.

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Thanks, guys, I am planning to replace it next week. I hate cheap parts and have ordered a genuine FAG bearing. I had an offer from Europarts of £82 and snapped it up!

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I changed mine on an e39 and all i will say is the bolts holding the bearing were FT! had the hub in a vice and a big bar to undo and still hard work.

 

If you have access to an impact gun its sooooooo much easier!

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I went along the route of dropping the whole strut out when I did the E61.... this also highlighted the fact the the braking vibration was in fact the strut top bearings, not the hub bearings, but as I had them I ordered the top bearings and changed the lot anyway!

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I didn’t make any marks when I replaced mine. 
 

I did the front nearside bearing (FAG) when I did the lower arms as one needs to come out to get to the bearing bolts. And to get the arm out you need to split the strut from the steering knuckle.
 

Here is my guide.

 

But drop the whole strut out and separate the pinch bolt on the bench, far easier than doing it on the car 

 

 

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