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Taffy 1

Blown Head Gasket

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I believe my HG is on it's way out. Any recommendations for a  replacement brand gasket? I'm sure there are lots of members who have carried out this job and would provide me with info.:rolleyes: Dealers are too dear!

Edited by Taffy 1

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Hi Ivor

 

Not sure if I can really help you as it was 20 odd years ago since I did an M30 head gasket. I have done it twice,  and I believe that I used Reinz and Elring gaskets supplied by eurocarparts. 

I didn't  look for any specific make, its what they had at the time. Both worked fine. The most important thing is to get all liquid out of the head bolt holes in the block. A bit of cloth and a bit of wire does the job. 

I just took the whole head, together with the inlet  or exhaust manifold as one. Just took the rubbery inlet bits and bobs off inlet side and detached the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and lugged the whole thing off. Not sure I could do that now.

 

Regards

John.

 

Edited by JohnH
M30 not E30

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Thanks John, 

 

You've answered my question, I was looking at Elring and Reinz. I did this job nearly thirty years ago and I couldn't remember what I used.

As far as your last paragraph goes, I think an engine crane might be in order, apart from the waste of good gaskets between inlet, exhaust and the head there's a lot of work to be saved by doing it all in one lump.

 

Regards,

 

Ivor

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Hi Ivor,

 

I had to have the head off of the M30 engine in my 1987 635csi to repair number 6 cylinder exhaust studs back in 2002, but used OEM parts without any issues.

 

Also had the heads off of two M20 engined E28's, also for number 6 cylinder exhaust stud failures, but again used OEM parts without any issues.

 

John H's idea to minimise disassembly seems like a good way to keep costs down too :cool:

 

I am with you for using an engine crane, damn this aging process... :rolleyes:

 

I now realise that I will have to add an engine crane to my list of needs :grin:

 

Good luck with the fix.

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

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8 hours ago, Ordnator said:

Hi Ivor,

 

I had to have the head off of the M30 engine in my 1987 635csi to repair number 6 cylinder exhaust studs back in 2002, but used OEM parts without any issues.

 

Also had the heads off of two M20 engined E28's, also for number 6 cylinder exhaust stud failures, but again used OEM parts without any issues.

 

John H's idea to minimise disassembly seems like a good way to keep costs down too :cool:

 

I am with you for using an engine crane, damn this aging process... :rolleyes:

 

I now realise that I will have to add an engine crane to my list of needs :grin:

 

Good luck with the fix.

 

Stay safe and best regards,

 

Mick

 

 

Thanks for your comments Mick.

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25 minutes ago, JohnH said:

Yes an engine crane is very useful

 

50487361486_3a180df7e5_k.jpg

 

I got this one from Machine Mart. It folds up reasonable small so you can pug it away in a corner.

 

 

Some years ago my Wife worked for an engineering supply company and I was offered an engine crane at an extremely cheap price, alas I didn't take up the offer.

Edited by Taffy 1

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I had a crane like that which came with an M30 lump and an engine stand - didn't used any of them so sold them on - had i had bigger garage they would probably all still be squirreled away!

 

When i changed my head i had the manifolds off in situ and its still a hefty lump!

 

Keeping the manifolds on sounds a great idea as the exhaust manifolds particularly are an arse to do, slightly better engine out but if they can be left be so much the better!

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With an old M30 it's rarely just the gasket. Expect to find corrosion that will need welding plus the skim that all heads need regardless. Look also for cracks in the block on 3.5's. If memory serves, the cam and rocker shafts need to come out so that the valves are all closed for skimming.

 

With the head off, I would be replacing the exhaust manifold studs as well. Thread lock them in with the proper Wurth green fluid. If the studs are original, one will break off once the head is back on - sods law. If you are running the original cast manifold I would get that skimmed flat as well as they are normally bent - it's why they pop the studs. When you skim the head (don't try to get away without this) make sure the front timing cover is bolted on so that it's the same height as the head.

 

It's probably worth taking the whole head to an engineering place and get them to do everything including the essential pressure test. Therer are four rocker stafts on there and they are all different. Again, new ones aren't that dear. If the cam spray bar comes off remember it has to face the right way on reassembly or you'll starve six cam lobes of oil.

Edited by Sir Anthony Regents-Park

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