New turbo v2!!!

[Marc_86 140]

Hi all,

 

Thanks to everyone so far who has helped me on this over various threads.

 

So here is the back story for those who are not aware.

 

Car is a 525d manual with 162k and fsh...remapped to 205 bhp and 467Nm and drove lovely.

 

Then I decided I needed more power...so compared going to the e60 gt2260v turbo or the gt2556v from the 530d e39.

 

I chose the latter for ease and bought from ebay with a leap of faith.

 

So new turbo arrived, my back was knackered at the time so went to a garage ive used in the past as my local indi was fully booked and I'm an impatient bugger and they popped it in...but as the old unit didn't fail...they didn't change/clean the feed and return lines...nor did they bloody prime the new turbo. Just bolted on, ran engine straight away up to temp then sent me on my merry way.

 

Then 1500miles and lockdown later...turbo exploded!!!

 

So contacted ebay turbo company...and they've been really arsey and not supportive...blaming the car not the turbo and if they were to look at it...it would take 4 weeks...which I couldn't afford to have the car off the road that long.

 

So called up a local turbo refurb company and bit the bullet and had them rebuild it...which all now looks great (cost more than the actual ebay turbo itself ha).

 

So I now have a busy weekend ahead of me...

 

Fit rebuit turbo with proper priming (camshaft sensor removal)

Replace oil feed line and all gaskets

Clean thoroughly and reuse oil return

Oil and filter change

Replace all vacuum hoses with new silicone ones

Blank egr port at manifold as my current egr blank looks to be leaking 

Then have a bloody good drink to hopefully celebrate everything working as it should...which I should have had from day one.

 

Have I missed anything?

 

Thanks all again...will keep this updated with progress.

 

 

 

[Ray112 267]

Two questions mate: 

First- which company you used on eBay, just so others (and myself) can decide if they want to escape from similar problems if looking for turbo. 

Second question- what local company you used to rebuild turbo this time and where it's located. Might be useful some day. 

 

Fingers crossed it will run faultless now.

[Marc_86 140]

7 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

Two questions mate: 

First- which company you used on eBay, just so others (and myself) can decide if they want to escape from similar problems if looking for turbo. 

Second question- what local company you used to rebuild turbo this time and where it's located. Might be useful some day. 

 

Fingers crossed it will run faultless now.

No worries mate.

 

Ebay turbo company were Nerings.

 

They had great feedback and were cheap but the way they dealt with my warranty query put me off...basically saying if its car/oil related then they won't fix it and would have to pay again but also wait 4 weeks plus.

 

Local rebuild company in newcastle upon tyne were turbo rs and they have been great, very helpful and gave great advice/showed me how the old (new to me) unit died.

[Ray112 267]

8 minutes ago, Marc_86 said:

No worries mate.

 

Ebay turbo company were Nerings.

 

They had great feedback and were cheap but the way they dealt with my warranty query put me off...basically saying if its car/oil related then they won't fix it and would have to pay again but also wait 4 weeks plus.

 

Local rebuild company in newcastle upon tyne were turbo rs and they have been great, very helpful and gave great advice/showed me how the old (new to me) unit died.

I have heard of nerigs. They are selling turbos in UK, but actually it's Latvian based company, with not the greatest feedback in their home country. Early failures, not sure of reasons. Issues with poorly adjusted actuator rod length etc. 

 

So turbo rs confirmed that failure was caused by lack of lubrication?

[Marc_86 140]

6 minutes ago, Ray112 said:

I have heard of nerigs. They are selling turbos in UK, but actually it's Latvian based company, with not the greatest feedback in their home country. Early failures, not sure of reasons. Issues with poorly adjusted actuator rod length etc. 

 

So turbo rs confirmed that failure was caused by lack of lubrication?

Yup - they actually said in all fairness the turbo was well built and they showed me the failure signs on the old CHRA - was all purple with heat and had brass scorch marks off the bearing...was really toast.

 

So i think it was the poor fitting that killed it.

 

But still...the replies from Nerings were awful and totally killed my confidence in them.

[Ray112 267]

6 minutes ago, Marc_86 said:

Yup - they actually said in all fairness the turbo was well built and they showed me the failure signs on the old CHRA - was all purple with heat and had brass scorch marks off the bearing...was really toast.

 

So i think it was the poor fitting that killed it.

 

But still...the replies from Nerings were awful and totally killed my confidence in them.

Exactly, customer service is always important, not only until you sell something and don't bother after. 

 

Like you told earlier - want to make it right, then do it yourself.

[Marc_86 140]

Definitely mate.

 

Would also be a massive sense of achievement doing a job this big myself for the first time.

 

Actually looking forward to spending the day on/in/under the car. Haven't spannered on with it since January or so.

[Marc_86 140]

Another question as seen loads of debate on this.

 

Which oil...ll04 5w30 seems to be popular. Also would my mileage need a thicker oil?

 

Secondly how many litres...from memory is this 7.5?

 

Thanks

[Ray112 267]

38 minutes ago, Marc_86 said:

Another question as seen loads of debate on this.

 

Which oil...ll04 5w30 seems to be popular. Also would my mileage need a thicker oil?

 

Secondly how many litres...from memory is this 7.5?

 

Thanks

LL-04 specification is what you need, doesn't really matter which viscosity oil you choose, because it's actually very little difference between 5w30 and 5w40. I have tried both in my m57d25 engine, currently running 5w30. Oil consumption is about 1L-1.5 L on 10k mile intervals. Was about the same with 5w40. And my engine is at 223xxx miles now, running absolutely quiet, no chain or tappet noises, most likely on original turbo. So it's more about personal preference, price, what ever else. 

And by book you need 6.5 L of oil, but I'm always buying just two bottles of 5L, then you have something for topping up and on next oil change it's just one 5L bottle needed. Price of 1L bottles usually are ridiculous high anyway, so most likely 5L will cost about the same as 2x 1L.

[Clavurion 737]

Any ACEA C3 oil should do. And as these don't have DPF even LL-01 is sufficient BMW certification.

[Marc_86 140]

10 hours ago, Clavurion said:

Any ACEA C3 oil should do. And as these don't have DPF even LL-01 is sufficient BMW certification.

Great thanks for the advice 

 

Does this look OK...10L for £50 with discount code.

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/shell-helix-hx8-5w-30-c3-5ltrs-521773721

 

Also 5w40 seems cheaper yet again?

Edited September 17, 2020 by Marc_86

[sinner 108]

It may be worth swapping out the rubber section of the return line; number 13 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DP82-EUR-04-2003-E39-BMW-530d&diagId=11_7586

They age with heat cycles and multiple refits. I don't think it's so expensive from BMW.

[DepthHoar 173]

2 hours ago, Marc_86 said:

Great thanks for the advice 

 

Does this look OK...10L for £50 with discount code.

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/shell-helix-hx8-5w-30-c3-5ltrs-521773721

 

Also 5w40 seems cheaper yet again?

 

 Have a look at this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20L-Genuine-Mercedes-Benz-5W30-Low-Ash-SAPS-Engine-Oil-MB229-51-Fully-Synthetic/292698050753?epid=10026964004&hash=item442629d0c1:g:aYAAAOSwaIpb0EAo

 

20 litres of Mercedes 229.51 5W30 for £68. Bargain.

 

I use it in my 530d as well in the beater Skoda Sdi I own.

 

Shell make great lubricants (I use Shell Helix Ultra 'Racing' 10W60 in my M5) and would use one of their 5W30 lubricants too if the price was better.

[Marc_86 140]

That does look a bargain.

 

Although ive since found:

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/shell-helix-hx8-ect-5w-40-5ltr-521773571

 

£38 for 10 Litres using ECP code. This is LL04 and ACEA C3.

 

I only plan on doing the oil myself this once as my indi is chocker for 2 weeks and i want this new turbo on sharpish.

 

As per posts above this oil should be fine yeah?

[DepthHoar 173]

5W40 will be fine. Quite a few forum members use 5W40 in their cars.

[Marc_86 140]

Great.

 

I've pulled the trigger on the 5w40 ll04 with mann filter from ECP.

 

Also just started cleaning my return pipe and looks like the gasket has had it...might have been reducing flow due to gasket reducing the hole size?

 

Any thoughts.

 

Also checked my old feed line...water ran straight through it at a good flow. Since I have a new one...thought id cut the old one in half to check further. Bloody perfect...such a waste...but best practice to replace regardless.

 

So...all that leaves me thinking why the turbo died so soon...maybe not priming it and running car up to temp damaged it straight away?

Edited September 17, 2020 by Marc_86
Pics

[Marc_86 140]

Now got all my shopping list together.

 

Roll on Saturday!!!

 

[Marc_86 140]

Sorry...another quick one.

 

Will unplugging the cam sensor be enough for the car not to start when trying to prime the new turbo or is there more to it?

 

Thanks

[Ray112 267]

27 minutes ago, Marc_86 said:

Sorry...another quick one.

 

Will unplugging the cam sensor be enough for the car not to start when trying to prime the new turbo or is there more to it?

 

Thanks

Not sure about cam sensor. But unplugging all six injectors definitely will stop it from starting. You will have misfire faults stored in ECU memory about all cylinders, but that's easy to clear with any diagnostic software, and won't affect anything even if you don't clear them.

[Clavurion 737]

Cam sensor will do the trick and the connector is easy to unplug.

[Jerome 14]

Are you sure about the camshaft sensor cutting fuel. In the past when mine failed car still ran albeit with reduced power.

Crankshaft sensor on the other hand and the engine stops immediately. Not sure if engine will crank with crankshaft sensor unplugged?

[Clavurion 737]

3 hours ago, Jerome said:

Are you sure about the camshaft sensor cutting fuel. In the past when mine failed car still ran albeit with reduced power.

Crankshaft sensor on the other hand and the engine stops immediately. Not sure if engine will crank with crankshaft sensor unplugged?

 

Yes, I am sure. Diesel engine will crank but not allow fuel injection without knowledge of camshaft position. After start cam sensor is redundant.

[Marc_86 140]

8 hours ago, Clavurion said:

 

Yes, I am sure. Diesel engine will crank but not allow fuel injection without knowledge of camshaft position. After start cam sensor is redundant.

That's great...thanks for putting my mind at rest.

 

Cheers all again for the advice.

[Jerome 14]

14 hours ago, Clavurion said:

 

Yes, I am sure. Diesel engine will crank but not allow fuel injection without knowledge of camshaft position. After start cam sensor is redundant.

Diesel of course, mine’s a petrol 

[Marc_86 140]

Well happy to report everything went to plan and its all done now.

 

100% camshaft sensor did not allow the car to start. So cranked it for 5 seconds, 4 times with rests between.

 

Buttoned everything back up and allowed to get to temp.

 

Then packed up and celebrated with a lot of drinks so didnt actually drive it ha.

 

Everything was straight forward other than that poxy bottom maf hose bolt...what a nightmare...must have taken an hour to get it nipped up with a combination of tools and bendy bit holder's. Stupid access or lack of.