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'05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

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I meant to start this earlier but here we are now! I've been driving cars for around 12 years, riding bikes for around 15. Used to be into VW's early on but I lacked the skills, knowledge and money to do them any justice. I abandoned a Caddy Sport project and later a Mk2 Golf too as life got in the way and my passion for VW waned. I miss that Caddy. My first BMW was a tatty green E36 318iS that I just never really got on with, it hadn't been looked after and I grew to dislike the green and cloth grey combo.

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The car that finally clicked was an immaculate E46 328Ci with 43k on it, I put an easy 70k on it over 9 years without any major issues. Last year I started to think about getting the paint seen to and making it a bit more fast road/drift orientated. This is a poor pic but I thought it was neat next to the 840. I've had a set of those Style 5's for years too, I just wish they were 18"!

 

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I figured I would pick up a solid daily driver in the mean time as I didn't fancy commuting in the winter on my bikes, been there, done that, not doing it again :lol: It had to be a BMW (non E46), manual and have no major rust. The heart wanted an E30 or E34 but rust concerns nudged the head towards something newer. I looked around but I kept coming back to this car, the interior reminded me of the Interlagos/Mystic Blue and Cinnamon E46 M3s. I had my eye on an E61 that should have been the second car I looked at but I had convinced myself this car was the car for me!

 

It's an '05 E60 530d 6 speed Manual in Carbon black with Dakota 'rotorange' interior, I picked it up with just under 130k miles. CR82531 is the VIN.

 

One of the few pictures early into ownership:

 

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I grew to enjoy the 530d way more than I thought I would, though the to do list seemed to be ever growing. I decided not to go down the road of messing around any more with the E46 and sold it. I'm looking to make changes in other parts of my life so the extra time and money will help, I'll sure miss her though.

 

I'm not too into mods, I like having my touch on it but close to OEM is what I aim for. So far I have done:

- Fixed the drivers cupholder. Priorities right?! It was an easy fix, gently pried it open, removed and filed the release mechanism button.

- Ashtray was stuck forward. Another gentle wriggle and it functions as it should, not that I'd let anyone smoke in the car anyway.

- Air filter, previous one was sealed but the orange foam hadn't been seated correctly. Fair few leaves and crud found in the housing around the filter.

- Pollen filters. Checked under the scuttle trays for water - bit dirty but dry.

- Replaced gear knob, the leather had a chunk out of it with wedding rings.

- Fitted OEM mats. Expensive but the rears were missing and I knew how hard wearing the OEM mats can be. I wanted rubber mats but BMW stopped making them in RHD from what I remember.

- Engine oil and filter. Should have been first on the list but it's done now.

- Replaced key fob housing, sellotape wasn't a great look.

- Replaced rear window outer seals. There was a small patch of condensation on the rear window and the rubber was perished. Lower seal had split the soft textured lip that touches the boot.

- Recall for battery cable. No major but I seen on the paperwork it had thrown 4530 GB 65154395 Diesel particulate filter - regeneration not possible. Further investigation required!

- Fitted passenger side lower mesh blank.

- Debadged. It was specced without, someone added ones on but fairly wonky.

- Fitted space saver and jack, it wasn't and won't be on runflats.

- Replaced main and EGR thermostat. Temps way better. Cleaned the EGR while I was in about there, lots of crud.

- Swapped the wiper blades. Had an annoying knock from the top left. I measured them to get sizes for replacements and found the longer one had been fitted on the passenger side. Easy and cheap fix, I like those!

- Polished headlights. A good improvement with the autoglym kit but the drivers headlight is letting condensation into the eyebrow area.

- Replaced fuel filter.

- Fitted powdercoated mirrors. I got a spare set from ebay, split them and had them coated. Had new pins machined to clamp them back together. I was going to do my original set as well to sell on but it's a fair bit of work.

- Replaced anti-shudder valve. Had a horrible sound and shake when shutting down, a used one sorted it out.

 

So up to there things were starting to look good, I decided to start playing about with spacers, 15mm on the rear.

 

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I then decided to spend too much on another set of wheels I wanted, on trial fitting them the driver side front spring snapped when I jacked it up. I don't have a good pic of the car with them on so I'm holding off posting them until then ;) space saver already came in handy though, I had to move the car and didn't want to catch the arch.

 

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It's late now but I'll update with where I'm curently at with her tomorrow.

Edited by FLX

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I weighed up where to go from the broken spring. I considered just getting replacements, then thought the shocks are probably past their best. I had planned further down the line after other maintenance to lower it just a little more but it didn't make sense to hold off any longer. I was very tempted by Koni sports but I wanted to have a bit of height adjustment so I settled on a set of KW street comfort coilovers. I've had cheap coilovers in the past that I wasn't too impressed with, I wanted to see if the higher end ones would suit me better.

 

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It had wear on the outer edges of the tyres when I got it too. I decided not to mess about and got new Lemforder arms and tie rods for the front end. Probably should have got new inner tie rods too with the time it took unseizing them from the outers, obviously hadn't been tracked in a while. On stripping the front shocks I found the top mounts were rather rough, most likely a culprit in the broken springs. Yep, plural now! The other side had an older break near the end that wasn't obvious. Cleaned up the hubs, some corrosion on the other side but I'm happy to leave them unfinished, it's an easy replaced part.

 

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Around this time I also noticed the front hard brake lines weren't going to pass another MOT. I got the rear end up and found the same issue, along with corrosion setting in to the floor above the subframe. Thanks to someone at BMW, the brake lines are split into sections on the E60 so it's a lot easier to just replace the rotten bits. I've yet to fully check the lines around the fire wall behind the engine but they're looking OK from what I can see. I thought no way am I getting this far in to not address the rust on the floor, it's going to bug the sh*t out of me. I removed the exhaust, all the under trays and the complete subframe, I'm going to take the tank, sill covers and rear bumper off to get it all at once. Clean up and underseal is the plan. It's a load of work for an old diesel but now I can apply what I've learned and hopefully get more life out of the chassis.

 

I would love an actual car lift inside a garage but this will have to do!

 

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The subframe came out without much issue, snapped one of the M6 bolts on the parking brake cable holder but I expected both to shear so that was a small win. I think I will replace the diff and subframe bushes while it's down, undecided on OEM or poly bushes though. The rear suspension could wait until later but I'd quite like to experience the car with a full suspension refresh. I'll paint the diff and drive shaft. The anti roll bars and calipers are off for powder coating along with some brackets.

 

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This is about as bad as the under side is from what I've seen so far, obviously to ignore it just now isn't going to end well with the salt we get here. A side note: I think I would genuinely love to live somewhere where corrosion isn't as big an issue as it is here. Japan seems very intriguing!

 

Passenger side rear underneath:

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Drivers side rear - That's one dodgy looking brake line!

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I had the recall done for the battery cable done in January so I'm happy to re-use the pass through if it comes apart without breaking. I went to remove the battery and found a fair bit of water around it. I had checked the boot floor previously and it was dry, it was pretty obvious where the water had found its way in to the battery compartment though. I've not looked in to this further yet, I'll get a better look when the bumper is off.

 

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I removed the front arch liners to get better access to the brake lines and assess if theres any more needing done there too - yep. Maybe I should stop taking things apart :lol: Just a bit of corrosion near the bottoms of the scuttle trays. You can also see where the brake lines were exposed. I was amused with how bare the front seemed without the liners in place, the aluminium front end is an interesting concept and looks well executed. I do wonder how it will fare given the nature of galvanic corrosion, time will tell.

 

Drivers side front - corrosion around the scuttle drain:

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Passenger side front - same again on the scuttle drain but not as bad. You can see the OEM front brake line joiner, the rears just in the bottom right coming from underneath the car. I will replace the exposed unions with stainless ones. The joiners are hidden behind covers and I'm confident they'll last fine. Also not visible is an oil leak down the engine on this side. I'm going to pull the intake to clean out and possibly remove the swirl flaps so I should be able so source it then.

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Another potential problem just visible in the last pic, this hose has been rubbing on the intercooler pipe for a while by the looks of it.

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So aside from all that! I've a few issues to trace/fix:

- Parking sensors. I do OK without them but they're on the car, I want them to work.

- Washer pressure is poor. I'll clean the pump while I have the liner out.

- Around 60mph theres a small rattle from the dash. I'll probably have more rattles with the coilovers so this is a low priority.

- Fobs need to be really close to work. I'll start with a battery in them but suspect the diversity aerial may have been damaged with the moisture from the rear window seal.

- Dent in the boot lid. Not high on the list but it will get done.

- Parcel shelf discoloured, it shouldn't be blue. Had it on my E46 and it looked much fresher with a paint so I will likely do the same here.

- Dead pixels on the iDrive screen. I would like bluetooth and/or AUX so this will probably get addressed eventually.

 

Edited by FLX

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This evening I got the centre console out and removed the parking brake cables, at the point of removing the rear cig lighter panel I noticed I could have probably just done it without removing the full console. It needs a hoover anyway so I proceeded in stripping it right out. After that I removed the prop shaft. The centre support bearing is on it's way out, smooth running but cracked rubber:

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I've not had a good look at the flex disc but I'm this far in to everything so it's getting replaced. The shield above the prop had corroded through and broken at the front mount, quite a few of the aluminium heat shields have suffered with galvanic corrosion. I'm happy to use a penny washer to get more life out of them, they're replaceable and it's still a daily, no need to go concours here.

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The fuel tank was next to come off, I had anticipated it being rather heavy with a 1/4 tank on the guage hence the hydraulic stand:

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However I was surprised with how light it was, I also expected it to be rather fiddly and messy removing it but was far easier than I thought. I'm glad I got it out, there is a fairly nasty looking patch of corrosion beside the brake lines (passenger side rear). Sorry about the quality!20200714_200945.thumb.jpg.80ce5311c4284d24d8e534288101a29d.jpg

 

The driver side isn't as bad:

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The floor above the tank and prop is pristine, makes sense given how tucked away it is. The hole the tank vent lines run through need attention, this is looking through from the drivers side wheel arch:

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Edited by FLX

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Cheers, it's not far off 133k the last I checked. I keep a spreadsheet on google sheets to note what's been fitted and when, bit easier to keep track of part numbers and prices as everything is online nowadays. I'm not OCD, just bored and a bit particular :lol: Fingers crossed for you, the worst I found is that patch beside the fuel tank on the passenger side. I'm guessing puddles beside the kerb are probably to blame for that, it also came from a town right on the east coast as well so lots of damp salty air.

 

I'd like to think the plate makes a few people smile :D it was on my workhorse TDM850 and preferred it to the plate the car came with. I've got pressed ones I'm itching to fit but I'm best to get on with the underside while the weather is good!

 

Not much to update with for now, the rear bumper, sills and battery cable are removed. I found a small bit of vertical play in the shifter front bushes and on the shifter ball so will drop that to see if it needs anything else while the access is easy. Decided on powerflex bushes for the diff and subframe, hopefully the trade off in NVH is worth it for having a tighter feel at the rear. Rust treatment and underbody wax is on the way so I can get on with that shortly. The rear bumper inner and mounts are also getting powdercoated, they looked a bit rough. The rubber on the rear vents is warped and shrunken, BMW have a newer replacement (64229303806) so a pair of those is en-route.

 

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Not nice to see it like this but it's all part of the process:

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Edited by FLX

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I haven't the time or the place to do that kind of work these day's 

Mine is a family work horse bought mainly because of a bigger wobble box

but I've grown to love it so like you am overhauling / improving.

But work/house & two young boy's limit my time to play with the car.

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More boring updates, can't say I enjoyed the past few weeks underneath the car, mostly holding up power tools and scraping away at it. I didn't remove all the factory underseal, it's quite heavy in some areas but I was thorough in checking for rust underneath it. The telltale being bubbles and having a bit of 'crunch' to it when prodded, which is then easy to peel from the chassis. I also had a small skim around the inside lip of the rear arches, it wasn't too obvious but the paint had a few light bubbles in it where some stone chips had made some progress. Treated the rust with Dinitrol RC800. Need to grab a regulator for the schutz gun and I can get it undersealed again. Theres a small spot around the rear jack pads on the sills I want to get a better look at so I'lll have to come back to those when it's on wheels again.

 

The fuel tank vent hole was worse than it looked, all of the underseal up to the seam had been rotted underneath. The metal is solid though. You can just see the extent I went to with the arches here too:

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This was the patch by the brake lines on the passenger side rear cleaned back:

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Treated - the RC800 goes on white then dries black where it's over rust:

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Passenger rear looking forward:

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Looking towards the rear, the vertical face on the beam between the rear subframe mounts had it rough:

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Drivers side rear looking forward:

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Drivers side looking rearward, a nasty looking patch underneath the undertray beside the sill and front jack pad:

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Same again on the passenger side, I did notice this when I done the filter a while ago though:

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Passenger scuttle tray outer:

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Drivers scuttle tray outer:

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I also noticed the filler neck rubber was knackered too:

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It doesn't seem to be listed as a seperate part so I got a decent one from a damaged flap assembly - small bonus being it has the rubber line attached to the cap it came with too. I removed mine for a clean while changing the rubber, I ran out of silicone spray so the rubber needs a going over:

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The underseal is done. Had a good couple of dry days, the first mostly masking everything up and the second applying it, Dinitrol 4941. I went up the rear to just above the bumper mounts as well, I forgot to snap a pic but the reasoning being there were several small blisters. I didn't go up into the transmission tunnel as it was in good shape. I can finally start to get it back together now but theres a lot of work still to be done!

 

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Most of the parts I've been hoarding, still need to pick up lower rear wishbone bushes, front brake back plates and some other stuff I've probably forgotten! Still to pull the intake and find the source of the oil leak too.

- Lemforder F+R arms, drop links, rear bushes, front top mounts and tie rod ends

- EBC Ultimax discs and pads - in hindsight I should have looked more into upgrades but these will do for now

- HEL brake lines in smoked black - was tempted to go with yellow or purple to match the KW's but thought better of it, not like you can see them anyway!

- Powerflex subframe and diff mounts

- BMW flex disc, centre support bearing, front caliper seals, front ARB bushes, rear vents, shifter arm front bushes and ball outer along with a few clips for the brake/fuel lines. Aftermarket would have done for some of this but I've found the rubber generally doesn't last on non genuine parts.

- Autofren aluminium front caliper pistons - old ones had just broken through the anodising around the main seal as the dust seals were no longer doing their job

 

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The calipers may not be to everyones taste but I thought it would compliment the tan interior and it's not too far fetched from the metallic orange on some of the modern BMWs . I wanted something different to the usual colours. The finish isn't perfect but the powdercoater forewarned me, again not like you can see much of them. Hopefully they will stand up to the heat.

 

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The rear caliper hardware just needed a clean up, before on the left and after on the right. The calipers are all rebuilt now, something to do when it's not so nice weather outside!

 

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Front coilovers built - the old passenger mat makes a great kneeling pad BTW!

 

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Luckily I had an old 'special tool' I knocked up years ago for doing front suspension, a 22mm socket with flats milled into it for a 19mm open ender. The rebound adjustment on the KWs is where you usually find a 6mm internal hex/allen on normal shocks. I had to grind the inside out for a 10mm socket to pass through and hold the piston rod.

 

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I also knocked off the pins while access is easy, it's probably going to need a bit of fiddling anyway to get the alignment sorted as I plan to run it slightly lower than the M-sport suspension

 

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Edited by FLX

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What a joyous weekend! Ok, I guess sarcasm doesn't really come across that well in writing. I got the rear subframe inside and stripped it. I knackered the threads on the end of one driveshaft, I thought I had the lock tabs far enough back but they took out the thread around the cutaways on the driveshaft. Then the thread picked up on the integral link (the long bush that attaches between the rose joint, hub and lower arm) going into the hub. I started to drill the thread out in preparation for repairing it then thought it would be wise not to, it's too critical an area and used hubs aren't too expensive - I then noticed the wheel bearing had the beginnings of play so I wrote that hub off. The brake backplates are also corroded near the mounts so I'll have to get them all round.

 

I did get round to repairing the handbrake cable retainer on the other hub though. I welded a nut on and left it to cool down, sometimes works but didn't in this case, a thread repair was necessary. The offending bolt:

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Drilled and tapped for the Timesert insert:

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Counterbored for the wider head of the insert:

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Hey presto! M6 hole back where it should be.

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I cleaned up the R/H (left in picture) hub. Vapour blasting would give it a much nicer uniform finish but I just wanted the worst of the crud off it without spending more bloody money!

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The lower arms got the same treatment as well, before/after for comparison.

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Seemingly not a whole lot going on lately, mostly thinking how much easier blasting would be :rolleyes: The camera on my phone seems pretty poor nowadays but I think part of it is the lighting inside.

 

Anyway, the rear subframe pre-hours of scrubbing away:

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After:

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I have access to a press through a friend of a friend but I still wouldn't be able to get the diff bushes reachable on it. I hunted high and low and found suitable diameters of tube and/or sockets and got them out using a bit of threaded rod and some heat. I wanted to try getting the subframe mounting bushes out myself. I had to grind out the centre of one of the old discs to the right diameter but with a good heat 3 of the 4 came out with some resistance. The blowtorch ran out of gas on the last one, I should have called it a day but I was on a roll - only to strip the thread of the only bit of M12 threaded rod I had! Got hold of another bottle the next day and gave it another shot, stepping down to M10 rod this time and it flew out once it was toasty. This was the setup, a 55mm socket, modified brake disc and some heavy plate. Plus lots of heat. Would have been a tad easier with the right tools but the challenge is sometimes part of the fun :lol:

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Powerflex bushes popped in to place:

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I mentioned the underseal on the back end previously. The steel bumper and the supports weren't looking great:

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After powdercoating I cut new foam to seal them to the chassis again, cleaned up the bolts and mounted them. The factory underseal doesn't really go that high, I treated the few spots of rust and went a bit higher:20200905_153317.thumb.jpg.7dc210c8af146b63a868febbd946a06a.jpg

 

Swapped out the rear vents too, this shows the difference between the superseded vents and their replacements. I could have probably messed around with fitting new rubber to the old ones but with the car in so many bits I figured I'd leave it to the experts and get on with other things.

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While refitting the battery cable I had the upper scuttle trays out again. You need them off to get to the centre bolts on the strut brace that also covers that side of the positive terminal. Only this time I noticed something was missing, I hadn't noticed when changing the pollen filters before:

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A small cover! I had replaced a couple of screws missing on this side before, I can only assume someone was in a rush and/or not caring when they needed access to the brake fluid reservoir previously. Once the battery cable was back in I also refitted the fuel tank and lines.

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The diff was next up on the bench.

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I drained it and fought the urge to unbolt the rear cover. The crown wheels are apparently bolted up to around 2007, then welded from then on. I've fancied an LSD for it so knowing if it wouldn't need machining would be a slight advantage but I'd just be giving myself more work. That and theres still a lot of things that need attention before I can actually consider it. How nice would that alloy cover look with a blast though :( I gave it a quick clean but focused on the cast body of the diff, lots of flaky corrosion on it. I pulled off the stickers, noted the part number and ratio (2.47) and stamped them on it. I wasn't quite channeling Michelangelo but the hours sure frittered away chipping off the flaky bits the wire wheel on the grinder couldn't chew through. A few coats of paint later it's looking a bit better.

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Something that has also bugged me the whole time I've had the plastic undertrays off is the state of the front reinforcement plate. As mentioned it does have an oil leak, I've yet to find the source of it but I can do that while the suspension settles a bit - I want to have it as close to the height I want before tightening up the suspension arms. One of the bolts was difficult to shift, with a bit of heat it glided out. The plate was just pretty gross to look at.

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After a bit of old petrol and a scrub, much better!

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The foam/tractor noise insulation took a good scrub with Gunk degreaser but I found that it is in fact grey :lol:

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I changed the centre support bearing and flex disc tonight and I'm hoping to borrow a brake pipe flaring tool over the weekend so I can also get the lines off the list. Not a whole lot before I can get on with getting it back together now!

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So I managed to get hold of the flaring tool on monday but found a slight difference between the flares I was getting and the old flares on the car. The tool was for making SAE bubble flares and the original flares are DIN mushroom flares, note the angles on the back of them where the tube nuts push them into place :

 

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I was assured by a few guys and automec that the SAE flaring tool and stainless SAE fittings I had would be fine sealing into the DIN fittings - I can see their logic in it, I'm using kunifer brake line so it's soft enough to squish into shape. My concern was using the original DIN fittings that would be present on the ABS pump (front right short brake line) and the joining pieces, the flat face of the DIN nut pushing into the back of an angled SAE flare. I found another supplier of stainless tube nuts which was a little difficult, hopefully they are DIN this time around, I will reuse the original ends if not. I also have a DIN flaring tool on the way for peace of mind.

 

The shifter is back in place with new front oval bushes and the ball outer. I wasn't too happy at first due to it sticking on the far right, then I noticed one of the ball outer tabs hadn't quite seated in the mounting. Could have renewed the other bushes as well but these were the ones that showed wear, it wasn't too bad before but I thought why not tighten it up a bit while access is easy. Feels a bit nicer now.

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You may have noticed the patch of corrosion on the nut at the top, it's from the shield pictured earlier in the thread. I had planned to use penny washers but the material was weak near the hole.

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I looked to see if there were any cheap replacements but they showed similar or worse corrosion. I didn't fancy shelling out for a new one so I cut a bit of alloy and shaped it close to the corroded part then pop riveted it on.

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The back box heat shield also had the same issue, used ones in similar conditon.

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After a bit of pratting around with more alloy and a quick wash it's good to go.

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I've got the back bumper supports refitted and a diagnostic cable from Cable-Shack, I'll mount the rear bumper loosely and try to find where the parking sensors are giving problems. Probably have to fight my way through the fault codes, I switched the ignition on after refitting the battery and tank, the CCC went mad with the rear lights disconnected, ABS sensors, brake fluid, tyre pressures etc :rolleyes: The diagnostics should come in handy for recoding the battery and bleeding the ABS pump too. I'd like to correct the speedo as well, hated it displaying a higher speed.

 

Also been cleaning and painting all the bolts and fittings I've had off, bit of a task. They're going to chip on refitting but it's better than leaving them to rust and I can't justify spending hundreds on replacing them.

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Brake lines took far longer than anticipated. I had the old ones tucked away and copied them as best as I could, they're not perfect as I'm not a CNC bending machine but I'm happy with the results. The second lot of tube nuts that showed up were suitable for DIN fittings so I used them on the exposed ends.

 

Front right line:

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Bolted up at the ABS pump:

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The front to rear pipes being longer were more prone to error but with a few tweaks they're sitting reasonably well. Can't remember if I mentioned it but the tank and fuel lines are also back in, primed it a few times and started first time. Surprisingly quiet for not having the exhaust on!

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I had intended on putting the rear subframe and components back up seperately but it's far easier to just build it all and lift it as one unit. I went for Powerflex bushes on the rear lower arms, unfortunately they only do them in the rather hard black series so I'll just have to see how they are. I also messed up when ordering the rear bushes, should be PFR5-711 but I bought PFR5-711-12. It's the same poly bush but the insert has a 12mm hole for the E39 so they're off to get taken out to 14mm, I had already fitted them before I noticed my error or I would have returned them. Probably should have just went with OE rubber bushes but oh well :lol:

 

The next set back was the wheel bearings. I bought another hub as mentioned (the integral link thread stripped on my original one) but the wheel bearing had a tiny bit of play. I replaced it then thought I'd be as well doing the other side since it's all apart and being on 130k+ it probably doesn't have much life left. The mistake happened when I went to put the driveshaft into the hub - I had cleaned both thoroughly but managed to pop the wheel bearing when chapping the driveshaft into it. Doh! I replaced that wheel bearing again and bought the tool for pulling the driveshaft through, far easier! The tool is universal and is a bigger diameter than where the nut sits, it also has a cutaway in it so I used an old taper bearing outer race to sit on the hub and square everything up.

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Just waiting on the mentioned bush inserts and this will be good to mount up. I didn't put the backplates on as I knew they would probably get bent, they just need a small snip to fit over the hubs.

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Gave a fair few of the undertrays and liners a clean, my pressure washer burnt out its motor within 5 minutes of getting started on these so I cracked on with a scrubbing brush.

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I levelled off the car and changed the gearbox oil. I also removed the CDV, I'll get a hand to help bleed some fresh fluid through when I do the brakes.

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While I was there I started hunting about for the source of the oil leak(s). There is definitely a leak I can see around the intake manifold, I'll be removing it this week to see if theres any other sources. This pretty much confirms my suspicion of the sump gasket though, the rear bolts through the gearbox both have drips off of them but the flywheel is dry so the rear main seal seems OK. There was oil around the sump gasket but I had my fingers crossed it was just pooling there from higher up. At this stage, with the front suspension still unfitted it seems silly to refit it to remove it all again - the front subframe needs to be removed to get the sump off.

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The lower pipes into the intercooler have also been weeping, the intercooler has had a bit of oil in it too. I got new gaskets for the charge air pipes so will check the turbo for oil and play while I have easier access. I'll see where things go from there.

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Coming along nicely there FLX,

 

Just one thought, as mentioned to me by another owner on here with a gearbox to re-build,

He was bothered about putting 2.5k into a car whose value as far as the insurance is concerned 

is 2.5k.

 

Are you planning on getting an agreed value insurance policy,  as if someone hits it it'll 

be a write off, if on market value. 

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Thanks. It has certainly crossed my mind a few times having spent countless hours with it and digging into savings - my policy is due for renewal before the year is up so it makes sense to get an agreed value on it.

 

Honestly though I feel like selling it once it's back up and running, it has brought me little joy over the past few months. Suppose it's not much of a driving experience being stuck on axle stands either though :lol:

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Noooo,

All that time & work on preventative maintenance to go & sell it :blink:

Are you mad?

Get it road worthy & rag it round for a few months, you'll love it.

Mine is a love / hate relationship at the moment due to stuff keep's failing.

 

But once I get the gearbox woe's fixed I'll love it again :wub:

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I have doubted my sanity on occasion, yep :D The love/hate does seem to be an extra that comes with owning these! As much as I was fed up with the car last night I'm in a better mood now... Tempted to get a hybrid for it but spent enough recently. I'll clean everything up, do the sump gasket and blank the swirl flaps with new intake seals - I was leaning towards getting an upgraded manifold but the blanks are a cheaper option, if I feel it's lost poke low down I'll revisit them. The DPF and EGR will likely be getting 'looked at' while I've got things apart.

 

Had another nosy about tonight, theres no filter in in the crank case breather so it looks like it's been binned at some point. AFAIK it should have had the cotton reel type filter but at least I know it's clean and clear now. I might get a vortex one for it at some point but at least I know there's no blockage there.

 

I got new seals for the charge hoses on my last order from Cotswold so I'll get those in on the rebuild. Need to ask about for an engine hoist/support for dropping the front subframe now.

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It's gonna be a good drive when you get it finished,  tighter then a new drum.

Hybrid oh yesssss!

Get a good one, 535 injectors, gut the dpf, bin the egr, 3" turbo back exhaust 

Quality custom map & 535 worrying 360+ bhp 8)

What's not to like.

It's where mine will end up, I've just got more going on than you (juding by your progress)

+ a bad auto box to shell out for.

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Got the rear subframe back up with a bit of shuffling, blocks of wood and a pair of jacks. Rear Coilovers in, diff refilled, backplates and rear brakes fitted with hoses and handbrake adjusted up , driveshaft nuts tightened and the back end back down on wheels. I maybe should have painted the back plates black but they'll be dirty soon enough and the discs will wear through the coating!

 

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If you've ever wondered what an E60 looks like with the centre console out (probably not?). I had already engaged the handbrake again and knew how much of a PITA it is to get the 'service lock' (allows the lever to be lifted up fully) back in place so I moved the drivers seat back and fully reclined to get the centre console over the lever and remounted it all.

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Back to the front end. Removed the intake to get a look at the swirl flaps, not in too bad condition but leaking all over the place. I was strongly leaning towards getting rid of them but decided on an updated manifold from PMG Technik. Looking up the block from the drivers side there was signs of oil too, I know the cam cover can be known to leak so set about removing it. The injectors popped out with relative ease using a borrowed puller (thank f*ck) - I did notice the rear bolt on the high pressure rail was not screwed home fully so it looks like someone has been poking around here at some point. I was surprised at how clean the top end is for 130k, cams smooth and very little build up of crud. I tried removing the DPF from the bottom but it's very tight, I know I've yet to remove the subframe to do the sump which would have had it out. Removed the exhaust manifold and lifted the DPF from above followed by the turbo. I would love to throw a hybrid in there but then I'd need the injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust to justify it.. maybe an LSD too. With everything so up in the air at the moment I'm going to stick with simplicity and just get the old turbo checked over, hopefully won't need much.

 

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Been busy lately, didn't get a lot of pics hence the lack of updates. Head gasket went on my bike so that has slowed progess a bit, I'm almost there with this though. Pretty much all thats left is fit the front suspension, bleed the brakes, tighten the suspension arms all round and it's ready to roll.

 

What I've got done:

- Sump gasket replaced, cleaned the subframe while it was off

- Turbo rebuilt with exhaust manifold gaskets and charge pipe O-rings replaced

- Cam cover gasket replaced

- 2 Injectors replaced - failed leak test

- Oil filter housing and heat exchanger gaskets replaced

- PMG Technik Manifold fitted

- Cleaned windscreen washer pump filter, nozzles and lines

- Refitted prop, arch liners, undertrays, heat shields and exhaust

- Resealed rear passenger door vapour barrier

 

 

 

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This is the swirl flaps in the PMG technik manifold - a bit chunkier than standard.

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Got a bit lazy with the updates, passed the MOT back in december and been going good since then. Happy with the ride comfort, thought it might have been harsher though it's hard to say with going so long between driving it standard and now. Could go lower but I can't really be bothered with rubbing arches and scraping over speedbumps.

 

Since the last update it's also had:

- Auxilliary belt kit and water pump

- Strip on the bottom inside of the front bumper for the undertray, didn't notice it was missing

- Attempted repair on the parking sensors, had a blown transistor on the module but not investigated further

- AUX port fitted inside of armrest and coded in

- Clutch pedal bushes and rubber stop

- Bonnet release/OBD port mount, broke this due to the bonnet catches seizing up - greased them up

- Glow plug module and Alternator>Module cable - Still have glow plug codes so will replace the plugs at some point

- Painted the parcel shelf black - was bleached purple with the sun

- Alignment

 

Swapped over to the staggered radial/concave style 32s, replaced the run flats on the front with Michelin PS4s.

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I've also used a clay bar on the paint, there was a lot of crap stuck to it. Nice and smooth now, just don't look too closely... it's still got plenty of scratches, swirl marks and stone chips :lol:

 

Overall I'm very happy with how it's turned out, there are still improvements to be made but I'm liking it as it stands. Thanks for reading if you got this far!

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