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waitee

Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)

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dunno, theres arguments both ways, don't want this to turn into rant for or against. Lower temp= more wear on the engine internals, worse fuel consumption duel worse fuel burn/less efficient, I don't mind the heat as long as the cooling system is maintained porperly. Plus we don't live in a hot country so I may just leave it.

 

On the list of things to do next is a complete flush of the coolant, including block drain bolts, replace aux water pump and valves (got reconditioned unit) replace left vanos seal once coolant pipe is empty and out the way. and may fit the 88°c thermostat, part 13901734469

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...worth pointing out though, that the 6cyls run a full 10degC cooler on average (closely around 95degC all the time) and don't have extra wear problems as a result; both equally-capable of moon-miles. And as for fuel consumption - could easily expect 35-37mpg(!) out of my Alpina B10 3.3 (rock solid at 95 whatever I did to it) on long runs, but then it was a manual.

 

Note too I'm not saying I don't disagree, with a well-maintained v8 cooling system. Only that the extra temp isn't really a virtue fro longevity (I've had both sides for 5yrs+, and the earlier e34 540 - which ran the M60b40 4.0L right around 95ish too. That had a nice long life... and about 3mpg less overall than an e39 535/540 -  but then, the engine management, emissions targets/calibration and esp. injector design was a full decade or so older, too. Swings, roundabouts.

 

We are fortunate in that whatever one has/chooses - actually, good-quality cooling system parts are both relatively cheap, and easy to fit! And so is the ease of keeping an eye on things in detail, with both cheap obd2 dongles, and the sheer service-ability of the e39.

 

 

 

Edited by Huff

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With respect - and I mean that - 10degC nominal makes no damn difference to such tolerances whatsoever.

 

I'm going to elide the maths but for a start with an Ally block, ally pistons_ they expand at the same rate, so over a very, very wide temp range - no change in clearance. Run the numbers for say steel crank, a given main bearing dia in ally block - the delta over 100degC change is still rather smaller than allowable basic tolerances on assembly.

 

And - if you monitor coolant loop temps, -you'll find the engine on a given 'thermostat' will run oh, 85-110degC depending on what its doing - v low temps when unloaded / eg rolling downhill), vs prolonged climb or sim - the thermostat has slightly/rather- less authority on this than one might think.

 

 The summary/ my learning experience - is, actually, just don't over-think these things :)

 

 

 

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morning and happy Crimbo to all.

 

Todays upgrade was fitting Xenon to my OEM halogen lights. (thanks Dan for the adapter help)

 

So I started by getting the brackets needed from BMW, pretty cheap and they bolt up to the back of your standard headlight, with a couple random body panel screws I had lying around.

 

theres 2x brackets on each side that hold the ballast. I recommend you get some second hand HELLA ballasts on ebay, pretty cheap and plenty of them as they come on MANY cars including VAG group cars. don't search for the BMW part number rather the Hella part number ive circled in the pic.

 

Then you need 2x H7 to D2S adapters specific for the e39 (and other BMW models) again ebay, see picture. 2 nice new OSRAM bulbs, fit it all together and... Boom, loads of light.

 

The ballasts just plug in to the cable that would have gone to the low beam, no cutting required as same connector.

 

Programing with Scanner1.4: I fiddled about with this and lost the manual aim for a bit trying to tell it I had Xenons, Best way to do it is to just uncheck the box for the "low beam" message in the messages bit and don't touch the cold check bit or the xenon bit. in the LCM module.

 

Now I have OEM BMW xenon, looks stock when you lift the hood, but with manual adjusters. All working great and no errors.

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XENON VS HALOGEN

 

Theres it noticeably more light and when driving down B roads at night I can actually see everything with out having to put my high beams on. The light patters is virtually the same, you cant see any further with Xenon, theres just allot more light where it does illuminate.

 

PS I also took the car to my MOT guy just to check they where all pointing in the right direction which they where.

 

 

Edited by waitee

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Also what does everyone think of these, I got a wee Christmas pressie for the car, OEM style 32 18" staggered 8j and 9j think they'll look great, need a refurb and new tyres. (I hate black wheels) shadow chrome all the way.

 

Would someone confirm that the tyre sizes are the correct ones? tyres fitted are seriously stretched 

 

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Edited by waitee

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Tyres sizes are correct 235 40 18s for the front and 265 35 18s for the rears.. what sizes are currently fitted? 

 

Quite rare to get these in 18s with e39 fitment centre bore, if they are off an e38 7 series then then will need to be bored out or fitted with adaptors.. 

 

Can’t go wrong with a set of style 32s.. 

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11 hours ago, kayser540 said:

Tyres sizes are correct 235 40 18s for the front and 265 35 18s for the rears.. what sizes are currently fitted? 

 

Quite rare to get these in 18s with e39 fitment centre bore, if they are off an e38 7 series then then will need to be bored out or fitted with adaptors.. 

 

Can’t go wrong with a set of style 32s.. 

Tyres fitted arepiser stretched tires haha 210 at front and 230 rear haha

going to fit 245 at the front same as m5 and touring model. Why not ey!

and there from an e38 will be getting them bored by and engineering shop next couple weeks. Needs to be done properly!

 

then refurb shadow chrome 

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Another satisfying day (al be it freezing!)

 

Complete coolant flush, judging by the dirty water that came out it hadn't been done in a while. Its a bit odd at first as on mine anyway theres no drain for the RAD, so I removed the pipe on the bottom that does to the oil cooler exchanger thing. But not much came out which surprised me. so I then took the side pipe of the RAD where the temp sensor is, more came out there, but still less than I was expecting, I guess the RAD doesn't hold much, I mean maybe 2l came out.

 

Anyway the fun starts to PISH out when you take the block bolts out. Easy enough to get to with a 3/8 13mm and an extension on the right side and just a deep socket on the left. Replace the washers once your done and you can start them by hand, easy to reach even with my big hands.

 

Also removed the pipe infront of the Vanos solenoid to change the seal, (I did the other one a couple months ago when I did the valve covers) this one is easier with the pipe removed and I knew Id be doing this soon anyway. I used some silicone gasket also, on the inner circle and wall.

 

Also replaced with a refurbished unit, AUX water pump, which had pump refurbished and the valves done. Was broken when I bought the car. Cabin warms up what feels like instantly now its great!

 

Use about a gallon of deionised water to pressure flush as much as I could, using air compressor in a small opening I found filling the reservoir and then pushing air into the small hole made water blast out every pipe and both sides of the engine block so I did that a few times .

 

Put everything back together, filled it up until it started to come out the bleed screw, started the car, Usual hot air low fan setting, and all done!

 

Did oil and filter change while I was there.

 

Now for the first time the car has ZERO codes!!! hurray, the last one was the aux pump haha

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6 hours ago, BarryM said:

Just read the whole thread, terrific work and you’ve got a heck of a lot done in a short time!

Cheers. Getting there. Had plenty time on my hands with lockdown :) not to much left now. Couple interior bits. And minor oil leak to address when I find it lol slowly patching them up. Happy new year guys

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Car is developing a little vibration accelerating through 25-30mph, very slight, but noticeable more and more often. Initially I though engine, but now im positive its a driveline vibration, from a bit of reading on the Bentley service manual searching for vibration causes, I found the driveshaft centre bearing can cause exactly that so doing a full overhaul of all rubber mounts. (why not eh!) 

 

Parts ordered ;) engine mounts and transmission are prob original anyway so a good think to do as the car is getting the massive overhaul anyway.

 

Also got e60 heated washer mist jets on the way, which should be a nice upgrade from the 4 jet squirt you get on the e39.

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41 minutes ago, waitee said:

Also got e60 heated washer mist jets on the way, which should be a nice upgrade from the 4 jet squirt you get on the e39.


I think it’s a toss up between the E60 or Ford Focus - the BMW heated bit fits in the Focus jets and I thought the spray pattern was better but both are improvements over E39

Edited by BarryM

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1 hour ago, BarryM said:


I think it’s a toss up between the E60 or Ford Focus - the BMW heated bit fits in the Focus jets and I thought the spray pattern was better but both are improvements over E39

thought about the focus ones, but found a set of e60 ones on ebay heated with cables/connectors, £30 should be easy to swap over a replumb. Ive had an e60 and don't remember any complaints about spray pattern. Cant wait to get all mounts fitted though more importantly. don't like vibrations, if left untainted can cause more problems.

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Awesome thread!

 

I know I'm a bit late but ACS 2 - best possible wheel for the E39! :) I have a staggered 18" set fully refurbed sitting in boxes waiting to one day go on my car if I keep it! I really ought to.

 

What you picked up are pretty sweet too. Keep up the good work.

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5 hours ago, Liam79 said:

Awesome thread!

 

I know I'm a bit late but ACS 2 - best possible wheel for the E39! :) I have a staggered 18" set fully refurbed sitting in boxes waiting to one day go on my car if I keep it! I really ought to.

 

What you picked up are pretty sweet too. Keep up the good work.

 

Hi Liam,

 

Nice to see you are back in the forum and posting! Life and family does get busy and I'm in a similar'ish situation with some of my car plans !  

 

Also, it's the E39 fitment, 19 inch ACS Type 2 or 3 non racing which are the holy grail to want/find! - I recently sourced and sold a set to an owner over in California who'd been looking for a few years and needless to say, he's over the moon!

 

A set of the 18's in correct E39 fitment has just come up for sale as well!

 

The 2 piece Type 3 Racing in 19" are relatively rare but it's the 3 piece Type 2 19" Racing that are gold dust to find! 

 

I have a few sets of ACS wheels on my wishlist, but there's others I want with a higher priority !

 

Hopefully you'll have more time for your E39 - Keep it!!, and always enjoyed reading your posts from a few years back and hope to in the future !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

 

 

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Thanks Dennis! :) Nice to see most of the old folk still around and some new E39 blood too. I really hope I can keep mine and get back to my projects one day! The Mrs has been very supportive - I had convinced myself since it's fairly likely to fail next EU control on rust the sensible thing would be to get rid and buy some cheap banger as the 2nd car, but she said if we're gonna spend money on another car, may as well spend it on saving the Bimmer from rust death! :) It was gonna go to Poland for full sorting and respray then covid happened!

 

Oops sorry for the hijack Waitee.

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23 hours ago, Liam79 said:

Thanks Dennis! :) Nice to see most of the old folk still around and some new E39 blood too. I really hope I can keep mine and get back to my projects one day! The Mrs has been very supportive - I had convinced myself since it's fairly likely to fail next EU control on rust the sensible thing would be to get rid and buy some cheap banger as the 2nd car, but she said if we're gonna spend money on another car, may as well spend it on saving the Bimmer from rust death! :) It was gonna go to Poland for full sorting and respray then covid happened!

 

Oops sorry for the hijack Waitee.

To Poland for painting??!!

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1 hour ago, Loadmaster said:

To Poland for painting??!!

 

I'm in Norway. Price for bodywork is a bit crazy! UK would be an option but none of the old ferries are on these days so its a hell of a drive. Quicker to get to Poland and its quite common among Scandinavians and Germans to get work done there. There are front companies that subcon the work out to polish garages and handle the language barrier. Good work cheap price!

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Well, a fun day today, picked up the tyres from the engineering firm who bored them out perfectly on a CNC machine. And straight to fit the tyres id ordered.

Some rear tyre at 265 haha, 18's look superb I think. Just need to clean the car to match now. Bonus points when I got home the centre caps had just been dropped of by the postman. (or woman)

 

Car aligned again to M5 specs. running 2.5bar in front and 2.8 in rear. FYI the wheels are all the same colour. Rim edge part looks lighter sometimes with the reflection of the light thats all.

 

LOVE THE DISH!

 

 

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Edited by waitee

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