Jump to content
waitee

Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)

Recommended Posts

Hey viewers, had a little bit of rust repaired today before it got out of hand, I thought wise. Was just a little bit on one of the sills. other side is fine. Great job done for £240 at Brown body shop in Edinburgh. May she live on another 20 years. Apart from a little bit in the boot lid and a small bit in the gas cap theres no rust.

IMG_2064.jpg

IMG_2065.jpg

IMG_2068.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Waitee, 

 

Excellent progress ! 

 

When you get the front speakers, ensure you get component one. If you get co-axials like these ones you've already purchased, the tweeter will be playing to your knee, which would have been ideal, if your ears were located there!

 

Keep those updates coming along !

 

Cheers, Dennis!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car in for an engine bay steam clean today, before I do the last big job, want to make sure I know exactly where the oil is coming from. Will report back, hope its just the valve covers, but I fear one side needs a headgasket...  anyway not stopping now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, waitee said:

Car in for an engine bay steam clean today, before I do the last big job, want to make sure I know exactly where the oil is coming from. Will report back, hope its just the valve covers, but I fear one side needs a headgasket...  anyway not stopping now.

 

 The valve cover gaskets are the main source of oil leaks on these engines, they leak for fun! Leaking lower sump gaskets are pretty common too but easy to sort, you could be unlucky and have a leak from the timing cover which is a bit more involved but I'd be very surprised if you have any H/G issues.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

today I changed the windshield and rear window, rubber surrounds, which where as im sure many are, broken into bits, and crumbling away. new ones where cheap from BMW and easy to fit with a bit of soapy water. looks fantastic.

 

IMG_2140.jpg

IMG_2141.jpg

IMG_2142.jpg

IMG_2143.jpg

IMG_2144.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also good news after steam cleaning the engine bay, and after a couple days running around, the only oil "swap" es from the sump gasket, very light, and one of the vanos solenoids, both easy and cheap to sort out, :) well worth the money having the engine bay cleaned for proper diagnostic.

 

Parts on the way including spark plugs (haven't done yet since I got the car) sump gasket and oil level sensor gasket incase to. Timing chain tensioner, just as a preventative, stay tuned :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, waitee said:

Also good news after steam cleaning the engine bay, and after a couple days running around, the only oil "swap" es from the sump gasket, very light, and one of the vanos solenoids, both easy and cheap to sort out, :) well worth the money having the engine bay cleaned for proper diagnostic.

 

Parts on the way including spark plugs (haven't done yet since I got the car) sump gasket and oil level sensor gasket incase to. Timing chain tensioner, just as a preventative, stay tuned :)

  

 Good news on the oil leaks, or lack of!

 

 Also, the timing chain tensioner, I've had a few M62 engine'd e39's now and I've done it on it all of them as it's so cheap and easy to do, it made them all a lot quieter on start up. Oh, and be prepared for scary noises the first time you start it after changing the tensioner as it takes a few seconds for the new tensioner to pressurize with oil. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, waitee said:

today I changed the windshield and rear window, rubber surrounds, which where as im sure many are, broken into bits, and crumbling away. new ones where cheap from BMW and easy to fit with a bit of soapy water. looks fantastic.

 

IMG_2140.jpg

IMG_2141.jpg

IMG_2142.jpg

IMG_2143.jpg

IMG_2144.jpg

Hi mate, you got a link for these? Mine are starting to perish and could do with replacing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello again folks.

 

Todays jobs: rattly doors, intermittent actuator on driver door, front speakers:

 

So the doors sounded shit frankly when closed, rattly. I decided to take them apart to get an inspection on the go and tighten any loose bolts, didn't really find any loose per say, airbag ones where not very tight, but plenty of things loose and not put back together properly by someone else, while I was there I completely removed all 4 vapour barriers, and replaced with new super sticky Radon tape (screw fix or Toolstation) they now feel brand new and stay in place, while they where off gave the window actuators a bit of WD40, and replaced the driver door actuator motor, which is a bit fiddly, but can be done, and boy the thing pops unlocked and bangs back down when locking now! fantastic!

 

you have to remove all the bots holding it in, and the hardest part is the cable going to the door handle, you have to get slack in the cable and then twist and pull off.

 

while the door cards where off I fitted the sapphire black trim (same colour as the rest of my trim) to replace the chrome stuff. Looks much better.

 

The doors now sound solid when closed, very nice, and opens and locks perfect.

 

I also replaced the front speakers to match the back, sony 3 way ones, important is to always use some window draft foam stuff on the underside to get a good seal to the resonance box, (better bass) and replace the foam bit using spray adhesive.

 

The car now sounds great and I can highly recumbent the system, sony headunit with applecar play, and the extra bass circuitry that works with the speakers really does give nice tight bass! considering the size of the speakers. I left the OEM tweeters in place if your wondering.

 

 

 

069.jpg

068.jpg

067.jpg

061.jpg

065.jpg

 

064.jpg

 

062.jpg

Edited by waitee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Starting some interior work, I Rubberised the cup holders for a nicer feel, and re finished the tray thing, including fitting a discrete 2usb socket which folds away into the tray, and works great.

 

Wired in new stereo, using a connects2 interface, as amp was in the back I used a ISO harness ran from the back to the front of the car and used a spare/unused pin for the ibus to connect to the steering wheel interface.

Painted the double din convertor and satin varnish onto of the black paint, nicer than the Chinese plastic colour it came with. Also used the bracket for the radio and glued it to the back of the facia so it all sits the way I want it.

I think it looks fantastic. All steering buttons work. and Apple car play is awesome, brings the car bang up to date user wise. Of course you loose the on board computer. I never used it anyway. Still get MPG and miles to go in the tank, which is all I ever used.

 

Will be installing small sub to complement the speakers and finish the instal.

 

087.jpg

083.jpg

082.jpg

086.jpg

085.jpg

080.jpg

081.jpg

084.jpg

Edited by waitee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, a good upgrade today to the car, I fitted the steering box from an M5 and the sway bars also from an M5:

Bit of info:

 

Standard steering box has 4 turns lock to lock, M5's has 3. (Servotronic is disconnected for now, might connect in the future depending how I like the feel, but prob won't bother and just have hydraulic assist only)

 

Standar sway bars thickness is 15mm rear (16.5mm M5) and 25mm front (27mm for M5), I had the sway bars dipped in acid and powder coated to make them look nice and new. And of course Polybushes to match the rest of the car. 

 

Work wise, steering box is a direct swap, easy enough to fit from bellow. M5 is physically heavier to! and looks slightly larger.

 

The rear sway bar is easy, the front one is a PAIN IN THE ASS!, it DOES NOT slide back and off the subframe like some videos ive seen because its held in by another part of the subframe. So subframe had to some all the way off, hold the engine etc.. but doable.

 

Will report back after a few days on handling :), but Im pretty sure what my feelings will be, less roll and sharper steering!

 

 

110.JPG

111.JPG

112.JPG

113.JPG

114.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wee update for those following the build: I haven't seen this writer anywhere, After testing the M5 steering box, I realised I needed to cut and unused bracket (I  guess used on another engine) of the front subframe. Not a big deal, but it did touch at full lock. If you ever fit one you'll see what I mean, its an easy fix.

 

Regarding handling, car feels amazing!, steering is marginally heavier which is actually really nice, instanlty put me of wanting to connect the servotronic. I love the feel, Its by no means heavy at low speed, just a bot more than the stock box.

 

I replaced the idler arm bushing as well. I have ZERO play in the steering and it feels really great. darts from side to side now. And with the addition of the M5 sway bars its a great combo. Highly recommended.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bumpers coming along, this has been a long refurb, got some black m sport one which where in a bad state, after much fibreglassing and bogging, sanding priming and painting, the results look amazing for a garage job, I have a pro paint gun and have painted cars before. a couple dust specs, will buff out if I feel like it. enjoy pics. Rear still not complete. Front done, will do before and after pics once all fitted.

 

Also painted bumper trim, grill, and new fog lights fitted.

 

 

120.JPG

121.JPG

122.JPG

123.JPG

124.JPG

125.JPG

126.JPG

127.JPG

128.JPG

129.JPG

130.JPG

131.JPG

132.JPG

Edited by waitee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

easy pieasy: remove rand down a little, clean, dry and quick spray with Halfords plastic bumper trim black rattle can. I figure if they get damaged its easy to touch up :)

 

Also paint PDC while your there to match

 

Edited by waitee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well guys and gals, bumpers are on and I couldn't be happier :) there not factory perfect, but minor imperfections, that will buff out once I decide to compound the car.

 

What a change from the SE bumpers.

 

Also changed a damaged front wheel well trim, And BOTH front bits of trim with the hole for the brake cooling duct, which where both completely fucked! They are aftermarket (ebay) cost about 30 quid for the pair. the fit is OK, not great, had to drill most wholes once in place, but not a big deal, and at least the temp sensor reads correctly now that its not exposed to all the engine heat.

 

last photo is pre bumpers :)

 

 

134.JPG

135.JPG

136.JPG

ffe4a68f-dce4-44a2-bb7e-e4ed82aae5d3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey folks, a good mechanical day today: finally got round to fixing the oil leaks.

 

Valve covers, I had spare ones ready to go from a landie as you've prob seen on previous posts. Powder coated textured black. ALL baskets and rubber washers swapped out. Reused all bolts and hardware. Used a little bit of silicon gasket maker on the corners of the half circles and where the front timing covers meet.

 

Only fiddly bit is separating the injectors from the wiring box. PITA! pulled the box and the injectors came up with it, then used a pic to pry the metal clips of each side of the injector and finally freed to get space to work. easy to put back together, place injectors in there places and used a small bit of grease round the side and the elec box just pushed back on.

 

Labelled everything as I took it of, connectors etc, a few vacuum lines.

 

I had a new positive terminal which looks nice compared to the broken one.

 

I also did cleaned the knock sensors and fitted with new o rings. And the vanos seals which where actually my biggest oil leak. Easy enough and cheap parts to. Pull of clean push new one on with some silicone gasket to be safe.

 

Then did the oil change and took the sump of completely, changed the gasket and the sensor gasket to. cleaned everything up as I went.

 

Engine inside looks like a nice light gold which is good. 

 

Oh and replaced the chain tensioner which compared to the new one I fitted was completely shot! First start is  noisy for a second, but now I don't get the couple seconds of rattle on startup anymore so happy. :)

 

LONG day, but work it giving the engine some love and many more years of life. Oh forgot spark plugs to :)

50.JPG

51.JPG

52.JPG

53.JPG

54.JPG

55.JPG

56.JPG

57.JPG

58.JPG

59.JPG

Edited by waitee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fuel filter today, and those odd, but apparently rather good aerodynamically, fin things on the front of the rear wheel. OEM BMW cheap parts and mine where missing. Apparently they create turbulence and the front of the wheel braking up the bounds layer and creating a larger coefficient of friction, IE more grip!

 

Also got round to wiring my ford lights. SE bumper has H8 bulbs, M sport has HB4, or the other way round I cant remember anyway, needed to change. Cheap on ebay to get the cable and solder in place.

IMG_2425.JPG

IMG_2426.JPG

IMG_2427.JPG

IMG_2428.JPG

IMG_2429.JPG

IMG_2431.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I'm late to the party on this. Great thread. Great work. Lovely looking car. You should be well pleased with yourself. 

 

Have you had project cars before? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×