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sarahMtony

No Boost. E61 N47D20 130kW 520d LCI

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Hi all, 

 

My 58 plate 195k workhorse has just lost all turbo assistance. 

 

No smoke. No charge pipes blowing. Engines runs fine N/A. Just no boost whatsoever. 

 

I have a receipt for a recon turbo from previous owner at 145k / 3 years ago. 

 

Do these turbos have an actuator? ( I had a twin turbo 635d that lost first stage turbo and turned out just the actuator needed replacement. Had exact same symptoms until it hit 3k then the big turbo kicked in and she was off!). 

 

Can't get in a garage for over 2 weeks. 

 

Don't mind having a look myself if ppl say a turbo swap isn't too bad or is there vacuum etc operated control's I can check and replace before I go the whole hog? 

 

Seem to remember reading the M47D20 turbo had some sort of actuator pin that often seized but they will want to sell you a new turbo... 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

Tony

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Hi all, 
 
My 58 plate 195k workhorse has just lost all turbo assistance. 
 
No smoke. No charge pipes blowing. Engines runs fine N/A. Just no boost whatsoever. 
 
I have a receipt for a recon turbo from previous owner at 145k / 3 years ago. 
 
Do these turbos have an actuator? ( I had a twin turbo 635d that lost first stage turbo and turned out just the actuator needed replacement. Had exact same symptoms until it hit 3k then the big turbo kicked in and she was off!). 
 
Can't get in a garage for over 2 weeks. 
 
Don't mind having a look myself if ppl say a turbo swap isn't too bad or is there vacuum etc operated control's I can check and replace before I go the whole hog? 
 
Seem to remember reading the M47D20 turbo had some sort of actuator pin that often seized but they will want to sell you a new turbo... 
 
Thanks in advance. 
 
Tony
It's got an electric actuator and the arm has a solid bearing that can stick

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2 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

It's got an electric actuator and the arm has a solid bearing that can stick

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

Thanks Gonzo. I think I'm almost there now. 

 

I could operate the actuator by hand quite easily with engine off. I'm more concerned there is too much play in the arm bearings /Rose joints? See vid... 

 

 

With wiring in place throttle application made no movement. With wiring plug removed and engine running I can clearly hear the (waste gate?) moving and addition intake roar when I operate the arm manually. 

 

So nothing seems seized but not operational either. 

 

I removed the actuator and I either broke the worm drive style shaft in there or it was broken and the issue! 

 

I can't see a part number for just the actuator on realoem. Do they say it only comes as part of a refurb turbo? 

 

Can anyone recommend a brand/supplier /website of a high quality actuator only please? 

Edited by sarahMtony
Missed part of sentance

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While I was there I noticed what must be a pipe missing... 

 

I assume the rigid steel pipe coming from the top of the dpf? should have a flexi pipe joining it to the exhaust pressure? Sensor above (both circled in orange) as it has no pipe either. 

 

I think it's... 13628591459 

On realoem item 4 on screenshot? But that looks like rubber braided vac hose when I look on ebay. At 27 quid for a length of that part number BMW oem what else can I use. The quoted 7.3mm seems to be neither 1/4" or 8mm pipe, what do I use? Thanks. 

Screenshot_20200624_214346_com.android.chrome.jpg

IMG_20200624_213735.jpg

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While I was there I noticed what must be a pipe missing... 
 
I assume the rigid steel pipe coming from the top of the dpf? should have a flexi pipe joining it to the exhaust pressure? Sensor above (both circled in orange) as it has no pipe either. 
 
I think it's... 13628591459 
[/url] On realoem item 4 on screenshot? But that looks like rubber braided vac hose when I look on ebay. At 27 quid for a length of that part number BMW oem what else can I use. The quoted 7.3mm seems to be neither 1/4" or 8mm pipe, what do I use? Thanks. 
Screenshot_20200624_214346_com.android.chrome.thumb.jpg.8b68c596ba3b8a915caa8f1f07159d21.jpg

IMG_20200624_213735.thumb.jpg.910c10766e14dfc33e5388ca01064d75.jpg
It's a rubber pipe with a heat shield, the one I got from BMW was shorter than the original so I had to move the sensor

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Thanks Gonzo. I think I'm almost there now. 
 
I could operate the actuator by hand quite easily with engine off. I'm more concerned there is too much play in the arm bearings /Rose joints? See vid... 
 
 
With wiring in place throttle application made no movement. With wiring plug removed and engine running I can clearly hear the (waste gate?) moving and addition intake roar when I operate the arm manually. 
 
So nothing seems seized but not operational either. 
 
I removed the actuator and I either broke the worm drive style shaft in there or it was broken and the issue! 
 
I can't see a part number for just the actuator on realoem. Do they say it only comes as part of a refurb turbo? 
 
Can anyone recommend a brand/supplier /website of a high quality actuator only please? 
I have a tested and working one from my 2008 car in Derby

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I've had a seized linkage on my N47 turbo before. A recon turbo was fitted a few months prior to me taking ownership. My symptoms were an awful howl, limp mode and a plethora of errors. When I narrowed in on the linkage I put some grease on it and freed it up while I searched and ordered a new bearing. In hindsight, all it needed was a bit of grease as the new part made no difference to what I thought was a very sloppy fitting with a lot of play. Seems this is normal. 

The actuator should move after you unlock the car with the fob. Sort of like an initialisation routine. So with you under the bonnet, lock the car with the fob, then unlock, and the actuator should cycle up/down if working correctly. FYI: it operates variable vanes in the turbo not a wastegate.

 

Realoem won't show the actuator on it's own as BMW only supply it with the turbo. You do see them for sale separately but apparently are supposed to be fine tuned/mated to the turbo, but while I'm no subject matter expert on it, my opinion, given the amount of play in the linkage after replacing it, I would say the mating of turbo and actuator to be a bit of overkill, and if my actuator died tomorrow I'd be looking for second hand one to hook up to my turbo. 

 

Your symptoms don't sound like mine but thought I'd share what info I had.

 

IMG_4532.jpg.62f0387fb74cf19f437c645a36811387.jpg

Repair kit can be had from main dealers and was about €12

 

Keliuss

 

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I've had a seized linkage on my N47 turbo before. A recon turbo was fitted a few months prior to me taking ownership. My symptoms were an awful howl, limp mode and a plethora of errors. When I narrowed in on the linkage I put some grease on it and freed it up while I searched and ordered a new bearing. In hindsight, all it needed was a bit of grease as the new part made no difference to what I thought was a very sloppy fitting with a lot of play. Seems this is normal. 
The actuator should move after you unlock the car with the fob. Sort of like an initialisation routine. So with you under the bonnet, lock the car with the fob, then unlock, and the actuator should cycle up/down if working correctly. FYI: it operates variable vanes in the turbo not a wastegate.
 
Realoem won't show the actuator on it's own as BMW only supply it with the turbo. You do see them for sale separately but apparently are supposed to be fine tuned/mated to the turbo, but while I'm no subject matter expert on it, my opinion, given the amount of play in the linkage after replacing it, I would say the mating of turbo and actuator to be a bit of overkill, and if my actuator died tomorrow I'd be looking for second hand one to hook up to my turbo. 
 
Your symptoms don't sound like mine but thought I'd share what info I had.
 
IMG_4532.jpg.62f0387fb74cf19f437c645a36811387.jpg
Repair kit can be had from main dealers and was about €12
 
Keliuss
 
Thanks Keliuss, that's helped put my mind at rest that I'm doing the right thing. My linkage was defo not seized, too much play if anything so I will order one of those. Thanks.

One last question. With the actuator now off and linkage just hanging I can operate the vanes VERY easily, almost like there is not much attached! I would have been happier with a nice smooth movement and satisfying thud when it hits open/closed.

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38 minutes ago, sarahMtony said:

With the actuator now off and linkage just hanging I can operate the vanes VERY easily, almost like there is not much attached!

 

At a guess I'd say my lever for the vanes was probably just as easy to move when I had the linkage off.

 

My linkage was dry and seized. The actuator would do about 5 or 6 clicks (and not move) when it tried to initialise when unlocking the car. Once I freed it up, there seemed to be too much sloppy play in it, so I assumed this was part of the problem (worn). I was also able to move the actuator when the power was off, which had more resistance and felt correct for a motor. A blob of hi-temp grease on the linkage and it didn't give any problems up until I got the repair kit a week or so later. Once fitted, the new linkage didn't tighten up the play, so this is where I think the original just needed the grease and it would probably still be fine now. 

 

Keliuss

Edited by Keliuss

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I have a tested and working one from my 2008 car in Derby

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Did you get my message GoNz0?

Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk

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10 hours ago, sarahMtony said:

Did you get my message GoNz0?

Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
 

Replied a minute ago.

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13 hours ago, sarahMtony said:

Thanks Keliuss, that's helped put my mind at rest that I'm doing the right thing. My linkage was defo not seized, too much play if anything so I will order one of those. Thanks.

One last question. With the actuator now off and linkage just hanging I can operate the vanes VERY easily, almost like there is not much attached! I would have been happier with a nice smooth movement and satisfying thud when it hits open/closed.

Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
 

Have you got the full part number please?

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Have you got the full part number please?
Looks like:

135-19652
K006T50172
8X194eaa687a752b5cbc4524849c6510d2ee.jpg

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22 hours ago, Keliuss said:

 

At a guess I'd say my lever for the vanes was probably just as easy to move when I had the linkage off.

 

My linkage was dry and seized. The actuator would do about 5 or 6 clicks (and not move) when it tried to initialise when unlocking the car. Once I freed it up, there seemed to be too much sloppy play in it, so I assumed this was part of the problem (worn). I was also able to move the actuator when the power was off, which had more resistance and felt correct for a motor. A blob of hi-temp grease on the linkage and it didn't give any problems up until I got the repair kit a week or so later. Once fitted, the new linkage didn't tighten up the play, so this is where I think the original just needed the grease and it would probably still be fine now. 

 

Keliuss

Have you got the full part number for that linkage please?

Edited by GoNz0

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16 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

Have you got the full part number for that linkage please?

 

11657823724

 

That pic above came from a google search. This number is correct, just had to root out the receipt. 

 

Keliuss

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Sorted. Many thanks to@GoNz0 for supplying a used actuator.

Works like a dream.

Have put a piece on Goodyear rubber tube on dpf to pressure sensor for now. Will get the oem part.

Thanks all.

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