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E39 Touring Tailgate - Bootlid open error / no rear wiper

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Trying to diagnose some tailgate issues.

 

Both parts of the tailgate (glass/main) open and close fine, all lights work.

 

But wiper isn't working and there is an error on check control - 'bootlid open' when it's firmly shut.

 

Firstly, the bootlid open error is a strange one as the open/closing/locking on the tailgate is working fine. Soft close is fine.

 

Secondly, wiper moves freely by hand, all connections secure. So it's either a wiring break or a motor fail. Gone for the motor swap first, waiting on delivery.

 

What would be causing the bootlid open error message? Any link to the wiper?

Edited by Piper

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Apparently there is a microswitch in the tailgate latch which the glass section locks into when closed, which can fail. If it does, it will result in the Bootlid Open warning, and the rear wiper will not operate unless the glass section is closed. If the switch has gone, car thinks it's open, wont run the wiper as a result.

 

NOTE - Not had this myself, but read about it by complete coincidence last night whilst researching a tailgate washer jet problem I've got!

 

It's the switch this guy is pointing with the silver pick. Worth removing the tailgate interior trim for a look perhaps?

IMG_1643.thumb.jpg.48f826ff6ead7ec5eb0bfa4691c74c3e.jpg

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I had the famous micro switch problem, although my problem was the battery was flattening over night because the car would not go into “sleep” mode because it always thought the boot lid was open but without putting a warning up on the dash. Quite a known common fault, because they’re external they eventually fail due to moisture ingress.

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4 hours ago, Pzero said:

Apparently there is a microswitch in the tailgate latch which the glass section locks into when closed, which can fail. If it does, it will result in the Bootlid Open warning, and the rear wiper will not operate unless the glass section is closed. If the switch has gone, car thinks it's open, wont run the wiper as a result.

 

NOTE - Not had this myself, but read about it by complete coincidence last night whilst researching a tailgate washer jet problem I've got!

 

It's the switch this guy is pointing with the silver pick. Worth removing the tailgate interior trim for a look perhaps?

IMG_1643.thumb.jpg.48f826ff6ead7ec5eb0bfa4691c74c3e.jpg

Wow, thanks. I will check it out.

 

If it is the switch, how do I repair or replace??

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Part 13 below, although greyed out for some reason (maybe because my late model one doesn't have it and this diagram was called up using my cars details, I recall reading that it was earlier models that had this, don't know what year yours is?) 

image.png.c3ad7bc5724a075ecf1075a6a0c2395e.png

 

Not sure what etiquette here is regarding posting links to other 5 forums, so if this needs to be removed, sorry about that!

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11309545&postcount=11

Incase it needs to go, part number for the switch he found was 61318355127. A quick search showed me a couple of ebay for less than £20.

 

He tested it by manually operating the microswitch / taping it closed, which then registered as bootlid closed fine. Note - although his wiper didn't then work immediately, he found a number of other issues with it he needed to resolve too, this would definitely have been one which stopped it though so worth checking.

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3 hours ago, Pzero said:

Part 13 below, although greyed out for some reason (maybe because my late model one doesn't have it and this diagram was called up using my cars details, I recall reading that it was earlier models that had this, don't know what year yours is?) 

image.png.c3ad7bc5724a075ecf1075a6a0c2395e.png

 

Not sure what etiquette here is regarding posting links to other 5 forums, so if this needs to be removed, sorry about that!

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11309545&postcount=11

Incase it needs to go, part number for the switch he found was 61318355127. A quick search showed me a couple of ebay for less than £20.

 

He tested it by manually operating the microswitch / taping it closed, which then registered as bootlid closed fine. Note - although his wiper didn't then work immediately, he found a number of other issues with it he needed to resolve too, this would definitely have been one which stopped it though so worth checking.

Bloody hell!!!

 

It worked!!

 

I removed the microswitch, taped it down and the wiper started working and the bootlid open message disappeared!!

 

Pzero = my hero

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Yay! No problem man, just passing on someone else's knowledge. Spooky how I found it the day before and wasn't looking for it though!

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Just now, Pzero said:

Yay! No problem man, just passing on someone else's knowledge. Spooky how I found it the day before and wasn't looking for it though!

 I'm well chuffed. It hasn't worked for a couple of years and I've only managed to find time to sort because of the lockdown.

 

Thanks again!

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Just a note to finish off.

 

It's impossible to take out the mircoswitch (8355127 or 83811379)  without damaging it. It has two small black fixings that hold it in place that will break off. It's not designed to be a replaceable or repairable part.

 

Also, the E34 version of the switch has the same part number - but a different design that won't work in an E39 actuator.

 

So ..it's best to buy the whole gubbins 2nd hand....but they're pretty cheap second hand :)

 

 

Screenshot_2020-04-24-19-47-31-852_com.ebay.mobile.jpg

Edited by Piper

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9 minutes ago, Piper said:

So ..it's best to buy the whole gubbins 2nd hand....but they're pretty cheap second hand :)

 

Heh, that's cheaper than any of the microswitches alone I saw, good score!

Edited by Pzero

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Haven't read this in detail but many of these issues are caused by broken wires across the hinges.  Looks like from another post you are changing dampers.  Good opportunity to replace the harnesses.  I've replaced switches and actuators on my car only to find it was the wiring.  I've posted in the past about this.  My opinion and it provokes disagreement is solder not crimp and use silicon replacement harness not own as they get brittle and are a bad design.

 

 

 

 

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On 26/04/2020 at 13:57, Dbcrd said:

Haven't read this in detail but many of these issues are caused by broken wires across the hinges.  Looks like from another post you are changing dampers.  Good opportunity to replace the harnesses.  I've replaced switches and actuators on my car only to find it was the wiring.  I've posted in the past about this.  My opinion and it provokes disagreement is solder not crimp and use silicon replacement harness not own as they get brittle and are a bad design.

 

 

 

 

 

Where did you source the harnesses from?

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I still stand by avoiding crimps and using solder heatsink and self annealing tape.  Recently did the other harness that runs in a channel down the side of the tailgate to a hole to access inside. Even with solder you have to stagger the joints to get them to fit and heaven knows how you would do it with crimps.  I used a quality resin cored lead based solder and a refillable  gas powered iron I bought at Lidl or aldi. 25w electric iron not powerful enough for outdoor use.  Plus the channel gets water in at times so crimps are going to get exposed to that.  Only my opinion.

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So...

 

... replaced the glass lock actuator and...no change.

 

When the glass is closed the rectangular hook thing doesn't reach down fair enough to press the metal strip onto the button.

 

So, open up the glass and did it manually. It seems the lock can turn down twice.

 

Pic 1 lock open

 

Pic 2 first turn of lock

 

Pic 3 second turn of lock

 

It seems only the second turn on the lock makes contact with the switch.

 

However, I have no idea how to get the second turn of the lock to activate. When the glass is closed the lock only moves 1 turn.

 

Also, maybe the rectangular hook thing might need adjusting... can someone compare with their touring?

15884169258143770582197163928140.jpg

15884169380335779595207643645948.jpg

15884169526336414939390617111528.jpg

Edited by Piper

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38 minutes ago, Piper said:

So...

 

... replaced the glass lock actuator and...no change.

 

When the glass is closed the rectangular hook thing doesn't reach down fair enough to press the metal strip onto the button.

 

So, open up the glass and did it manually. It seems the lock can turn down twice.

 

Pic 1 lock open

 

Pic 2 first turn of lock

 

Pic 3 second turn of lock

 

It seems only the second turn on the lock makes contact with the switch.

 

However, I have no idea how to get the second turn of the lock to activate. When the glass is closed the lock only moves 1 turn.

 

Also, maybe the rectangular hook thing might need adjusting... can someone compare with their touring?

15884169258143770582197163928140.jpg

15884169380335779595207643645948.jpg

15884169526336414939390617111528.jpg


 

You need to adjust the striker on the glass (rectangular hook thingy)  so that it’s long enough (unscrew) to let the catch engage into the 2nd position.

Instructions are at the bottom of this document:-

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-540i-tou/repair-manuals/41-body/41-62-tailgate/BY7Y6yi

You need to pay attention to all the measurements/clearances.

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2 hours ago, Rosie said:


 

You need to adjust the striker on the glass (rectangular hook thingy)  so that it’s long enough (unscrew) to let the catch engage into the 2nd position.

Instructions are at the bottom of this document:-

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-540i-tou/repair-manuals/41-body/41-62-tailgate/BY7Y6yi

You need to pay attention to all the measurements/clearances.

 

Tried it. Still nothing. I'm not even sure if the lock goes into the second position on any E39

 

Need to compare to another Touring.

 

What would be the consequence of having the switch permanently on, wrapped in tape

Edited by Piper

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My glass panel definately goes through two positions of locking, although mine is a later model than yours and doesn't have the same lock as yours did. When closing, it latches about 5mm out from the tailgate, then requires a further press to close it fully which is when it locks properly into place, which would be the second latch. Didn't know this when I bought it, thought the first latch was it closed, until I saw the bootlid open warning and heard it bumping around as I drove it. 

 

Could it be that the replacement lock you've obtained is from a later model?

 

Edited by Pzero

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2 hours ago, Pzero said:

My glass panel definately goes through two positions of locking, although mine is a later model than yours and doesn't have the same lock as yours did. When closing, it latches about 5mm out from the tailgate, then requires a further press to close it fully which is when it locks properly into place, which would be the second latch. Didn't know this when I bought it, thought the first latch was it closed, until I saw the bootlid open warning and heard it bumping around as I drove it. 

 

Could it be that the replacement lock you've obtained is from a later model?

 

 

Hmmmm well it's from a 2002 but the design looks exactly the same.

 

What kind of striker do you have?

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Same type as shown in the last couple of pictures in the guide which Rosie linked to above, referred to in same document as version 3

 

image.thumb.png.8b660f2e554f7dfd0660907f205be7d8.png

Edited by Pzero

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1 hour ago, Pzero said:

Same type as shown in the last couple of pictures in the guide which Rosie linked to above, referred to in same document as version 3

 

image.thumb.png.8b660f2e554f7dfd0660907f205be7d8.png

 

Looks like BMW changed the shape to solve the issue

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18 hours ago, Pzero said:

My glass panel definately goes through two positions of locking, although mine is a later model than yours and doesn't have the same lock as yours did. When closing, it latches about 5mm out from the tailgate, then requires a further press to close it fully which is when it locks properly into place, which would be the second latch. Didn't know this when I bought it, thought the first latch was it closed, until I saw the bootlid open warning and heard it bumping around as I drove it. 

 

Could it be that the replacement lock you've obtained is from a later model?

 

 

Pzero you are like a god to me

 

Your confirmation that the glass needs to be physically pushed into the second position made me realise I needed to extend the strike much further than I had 

 

16 anticlockwise turns of the strike later.....it's solved the problem! :)

 

so...hours spent dismantling and reassembing the tailgate and the locking mechanism...when I could have solved the problem in 5 minutes for zero pence.

 

But hey. The error message has now disappeared.

Edited by Piper

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Heh, no problem man. 

 

Checked the handbook for the car, no mention of the double stage locking for that glass section in there either. Wonder why they did it.

 

The second press required ensures it's sealed good and tight against the rubber surround, like when I close the tailgate and it latches then pulls itself tight automatically. Maybe they omitted the auto part for the glass section to keep costs down, or avoid complexity / space taken up by components behind the tailgate trim?

 

Whatever the reason, glad you got it sorted :)

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