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alohame

Broken spring or airbag?

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G'day. I live in Australia, and have recently owned a 2012 F07 530D GT, also my first BMW and this level of luxury/tech complexity. Quite unfortunately, after a trip to SA, it was noticed the car was basically sitting on the rear left wheel when stopped (as attached. the other picture is the front right wheel), and can hear the air leaking noise whenever engine turned off. When ignited, compressor starts to inflate and achieve leveling when reach 100kmh, when driving slower than 50-60 kmh the ride become very bumpy.

It was alerted 'Cornering ability restricted' as well as something like 'run flat tyre pressure monitoring failure'..

Nevertheless, I managed to drive the vehicle 500km back to home put the compressor at high risk of failure I reckon..

 

Anyway, since this model is very rare in the australian market, pretty difficult to find the part (for a reasonable price), rang a few dealers and specialists, they haven't seen the car yet due to holiday but all suspect it is the air bag failure and quoted approx.$1k for one side for OEM quality plus 2 hours labor, one quoted 3k+ for genuine part too, which is insane having checked Arnott price in EU and US, and 30/40min replacing labor, so plan to get one or a pair from the states instead.

 

I've looked it up, if I'm correct, I should be looking for item '37106781827 or 37106781843' if air bag failed, am I correct?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=SN62-EUR-11-2011-F07-BMW-530d&diagId=33_1511

And what's the difference between the below two parts, I think both are called air spring and they all said to fit 5GT? Which is the one I'm supposed to get?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-air-spring-rear-37106781843

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-air-spring-rear-arnott-a2780#description

And is it alright leave the car sitting on that corner like this for 3 weeks (like more damage to suspension)?

Can I keep driving it for short distance like 10/20km (compressor failure concern)?

 

Much appreciated, and wish you a Happy New Year!

open-uri20160804-4022-8kvblo.?1496491011open-uri20170224-17690-1gapjkm.?14964973

 

20200105101810.jpg

20200105101802.jpg

Edited by alohame

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Ok, quick look through that lot and I'd be thinking you have an airspring failing. 

Of the two you show, the lower one without the metalwork deffo fits a touring and looks like the one described in you realoem link.

For an F11 they take about 15-20 mins a side to replace... Doubt if there's a lot of difference for an F07.

I did mine recently and directly from Aerosus are currently listed as 179 euro each, UPS delivery included.

As long as the ride height is correct while moving, a few short journeys shouldn't hurt, but really try to limit use in this condition and keep the speed down.

 

Quick follow-up... I've searched the the airspring realoem shows for your GT and every place I look comes back with the same design as for the touring. Indeed when checking on the Aerosus site, the same unit is used on both F11 and F07 so I assume the image with the metalwork is just an incorrect stock picture.

As a guide, Aerosus quote 92 euros shipping for 2 units to Aus.

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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On 05/01/2020 at 20:36, HandyAndy_UK said:

Ok, quick look through that lot and I'd be thinking you have an airspring failing. 

Of the two you show, the lower one without the metalwork deffo fits a touring and looks like the one described in you realoem link.

For an F11 they take about 15-20 mins a side to replace... Doubt if there's a lot of difference for an F07.

I did mine recently and directly from Aerosus are currently listed as 179 euro each, UPS delivery included.

As long as the ride height is correct while moving, a few short journeys shouldn't hurt, but really try to limit use in this condition and keep the speed down.

 

Quick follow-up... I've searched the the airspring realoem shows for your GT and every place I look comes back with the same design as for the touring. Indeed when checking on the Aerosus site, the same unit is used on both F11 and F07 so I assume the image with the metalwork is just an incorrect stock picture.

As a guide, Aerosus quote 92 euros shipping for 2 units to Aus.

 

Thanks Andy!

I agree the one with metalwork doesn't seem like what I've seen on YouTube and other posts, so I've order a cheap bag locally (luckily they have one but not sure with quality) to give it a try.

Drove to local car shop this arvo, chasis bumped to the ground a couple of times, also the rear has a quite noticable negative camber now (it has been nagative, but not this much)

Guess I'll have to carry an air bag whenever travel far, I've got a 275/35 R20 RFT which is too big, too hard and thin to the ground, simply leaves all absorption to the air bag, this car should only be driven in the city :P

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Going by the experiences of others on here, cheap is just a waste of money and time. If one airspring has gone through wear and tear you can bet the other isn't far behind. Your best option is to bite the bullet and replace both in one hit. Arnott or Aerosus are better and cheaper than BMW. Fitting yourself is quick and very easy.

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On 05/01/2020 at 20:36, HandyAndy_UK said:

Ok, quick look through that lot and I'd be thinking you have an airspring failing. 

Of the two you show, the lower one without the metalwork deffo fits a touring and looks like the one described in you realoem link.

For an F11 they take about 15-20 mins a side to replace... Doubt if there's a lot of difference for an F07.

I did mine recently and directly from Aerosus are currently listed as 179 euro each, UPS delivery included.

As long as the ride height is correct while moving, a few short journeys shouldn't hurt, but really try to limit use in this condition and keep the speed down.

 

Quick follow-up... I've searched the the airspring realoem shows for your GT and every place I look comes back with the same design as for the touring. Indeed when checking on the Aerosus site, the same unit is used on both F11 and F07 so I assume the image with the metalwork is just an incorrect stock picture.

As a guide, Aerosus quote 92 euros shipping for 2 units to Aus.

 

Thanks Andy, I brought the car to an independent this morning, lifted it up and can see the crack on the air bag, the other one seems pretty steady at the moment.

I'm not sure how long a A$45/£23 air bag will last, nearly 1 eighth of how much I would pay for an Arnott from US (or 1/80 dealer charges), so it only worth if I repair it myself.

 

One problem is, the wheel nuts are too tight to come off.. got one of these and nearly broke it with no avail, bought jacks, stands, tool kits wrenches and all, only to find this thing probably cannot be DIYed...

 

43a81a19-54c9-4cd1-ba13-ffbaddab83e2.jpg

Edited by alohame

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You may need a longer one,, maybe a 3ft breaker bar/strong arm or maybe take it to a tyre change place and get them to undo the nuts and put them back on with the correct torque. 

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54 minutes ago, Erhan said:

You may need a longer one,, maybe a 3ft breaker bar/strong arm or maybe take it to a tyre change place and get them to undo the nuts and put them back on with the correct torque. 


^^^+1 Only 140Nm IIRC which isn’t actually hugely tight and an average guy should be able to undo them with a firm tug on even an ordinary ratchet, but some tyre fitters go way over the top. An impact gun should shift them OK but take some care if you’ve got security nuts!

Edited by Boba

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You could actually replace an airspring with the wheel in place... a lot more awkward, but certainly doable as long as you can safely get under the car.

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Thanks Guys, I just ordered a max.480NM impact wrench on eBay, said mainly used for 4WD, so it should be capable to do the work.

Then I realized I need a torque wrench too to set it at 140NM when finished..

Fingures crossed I have all the tools necessary and job will be done ;)

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20 hours ago, Boba said:


^^^+1 Only 140Nm IIRC which isn’t actually hugely tight and an average guy should be able to undo them with a firm tug on even an ordinary ratchet, but some tyre fitters go way over the top. An impact gun should shift them OK but take some care if you’ve got security nuts!

Unfortunately that is the case, there is this bloody nut in the hub, so with all the tools I've got, failed again. Sheisse.

IMG_20200108_165223.jpg

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1 hour ago, alohame said:

Unfortunately that is the case, there is this bloody nut in the hub, so with all the tools I've got, failed again. Sheisse.

 

 

You don't need to touch the hub nut! Not unless you've got a failed wheel bearing or some such.

 

You just need to remove the wheel. An impact wrench from eBay is not going to move the wheel bolts that have been overtightened. Unless you are paying decent money for a top brand device I'm afraid it isn't going to do the job. You need a 1m long breaker bar with a 17mm deep 6 sided socket of high quality. If you have locking wheel bolts too, be very careful as these are not rated for much over 140Nm.

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Whoa! Don’t touch the hub nut!

 

You don’t need to go anywhere near that to take a wheel off to do an airbag change.

 

I use a 36” long breaker bar (but it’s a bit unwieldy) and as Matthew suggests a 6 sided alloy Wheel bolt socket. 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-square-drive-alloy-wheel-thin-wall-impa/

 

Windy guns are all well and good but you need a proper decent sized compressor to get them to work properly. I gave up with my air tool set up as despite it being all there on paper my 3HP 8cfm at 90 psi compressor with 10mm hose and all the right fittings with several different windy guns refuses in the main to undo a 140Nm wheel bolt on my F10. It’s now relegated to paddling pool and tyre inflation duties.

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My suggestion is that the OP take the car to a good independent garage for repairs as this piecemeal approach to tools and looking for nuts to remove is quite frankly, Nuts! I understand people wanting to do things on the cheap but that can also lead to disaster that costs far more when you take the DIY botch to a good mechanic to rectify.

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Quote

Windy guns are all well and good but you need a proper decent sized compressor to get them to work properly. I gave up with my air tool set up as despite it being all there on paper my 3HP 8cfm at 90 psi compressor with 10mm hose and all the right fittings with several different windy guns refuses in the main to undo a 140Nm wheel bolt on my F10. It’s now relegated to paddling pool and tyre inflation duties.

 

I recently bought a Dewalt 894N Cordless Impact Wrench to use when swapping summers for winters and versa. It’s rated at 800Nm breakaway and 440Nm tightening torque which is perfect for my 140Nm wheel bolts. Makes the job that much easier.

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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36 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

I recently bought a Dewalt 894N Cordless Impact Wrench to use when swapping summers for winters and versa. It’s rated at 800Nm breakaway and 440Nm tightening torque which is perfect for my 140Nm wheel bolts. Makes the job that much easier.

 

Hmm, yes I've been eyeing up such things for a while now. I've got impact sockets but nothing that has any guts to turn them, but that would!

 

 

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

 

 

I recently bought a Dewalt 894N Cordless Impact Wrench to use when swapping summers for winters and versa. It’s rated at 800Nm breakaway and 440Nm tightening torque which is perfect for my 140Nm wheel bolts. Makes the job that much easier.


Yes, I have DeWalt impact and combi tools but TBH I prefer the combi to spin nuts on and off. Used to use it on the caravan to spin the legs up and down, much less tiring for ageing arms. I was surprised by your earlier comment about impact guns as I’ve found that mine can generally undo quite tight fittings. I broke a breaker bar on a car a few years ago when one side of the pivot just snapped off - Halfords replaced it though.

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BTW, the car should be serviced this February, should I go to a dealer, a BM specialist or a general independent mechanics?

Have bought two bottles of LL04 Shell Ultra, being my first time service a BMW, my main concerns are if any record to be written in system, such as service log, and future dashboard alert for next servicing date, KM, change of air filters, blahblahblah

Thanks! Looks like I have a lot to learn..:D

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For your first go you should be fine with a BMW specialist. After that it comes down to if you have a good mechanic you can trust to do work properly should you need to keep costs lower.

If you're going to use YouTube videos for reference, you really need no pay better attention or you could do something dangerous and/or very costly.

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38 minutes ago, alohame said:

my main concerns are if any record to be written in system, such as service log, and future dashboard alert for next servicing date, KM, change of air filters

 

You should be able to reset the service warnings yourself using the tripmeter button at the bottom left corner of the dashboard. Just Google BMW service indicator reset or something like that. I think the service interval needs to be over 90% expired before the car will let you do that. I changed my oil and filter recently and reset the service warnings.it now reads 22000 but I'll be changing it again well before that.

 

If you want to keep the service history updated so it shows on the idrive screen you need to have that done by someone with access to BMWs system. A BMW dealer might do it for you but charge an arm and a leg but if you know an independent BMW specialist they should be able to do it for much less, if anything.  They might want to see receipts for oil, filters and other service items  so they can be reasonably sure the work's been done. 

 

You could just keep a record on paper but it's nice to have it on the screen as well. I'm taking mine to get updated with a few things I've done soon.

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2 hours ago, alohame said:

BTW, the car should be serviced this February, should I go to a dealer, a BM specialist or a general independent mechanics?

Have bought two bottles of LL04 Shell Ultra, being my first time service a BMW, my main concerns are if any record to be written in system, such as service log, and future dashboard alert for next servicing date, KM, change of air filters, blahblahblah

Thanks! Looks like I have a lot to learn..:D

 

Or do it yourself?

 

Plenty of how to guides on here for the filter changes, oil, brakes and how to reset the service indicator on the dash.

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Thanks all for your help, I've had the air bag fixed by one of the mechanics I know, and noticed how complex it can be if something does go wrong.

And the wheel nuts were indeed tight, only used his most powerful wrench to get them off, and he didn't bother to set 140nm when he put the wheel on either.

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6 minutes ago, alohame said:

, only used his most powerful wrench to get them off, and he didn't bother to set 140nm when he put the wheel on either.

 

So the same thing will happen again next time you go to take the wheel off, you find you can't undo the wheel bolts.

 

Find a new mechanic and buy a torque wrench so you can set the wheels bolts correctly.

 

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58 minutes ago, alohame said:

he didn't bother to set 140nm when he put the wheel on either.


And did you really just stand by and let him bang them up tight without regard to the specification and not intervene?

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I've told him to set it by 140NM, but he probably never bothered these as he mainly served Toyota and the like. He only charged A$50, what can I say..

and I forgot to take back the adaptor of broken bag..

 

Looks like I have to get a torque wrench myself, could see there are already some damage to the nuts. :-(

 

---

Another thing which quite surprised me was, the tyre psi was between 21-28 (relatively cool), and I remember it was 39/41psi(reletively hot) before I came back from South Australia 10 days ago, it's really hard to believe that they lose air this quick, and there is no apparent sign of wear out!! Definitely gonna check again tomorrow.

Edited by alohame

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