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Isacnr7

BMW e61 525d faulcode rpm related and over charges

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Hello! Must say iam quiet new to the bmw world :) but I fast realized that the e60/e61’s have a reputation of having some electrical problems. 

 

 To my case, I have a e61 525d 2006, 33xxx km, flawless no problems reaaaally well kept! Until some weeks ago. It started with abs and tire pressure sensor popping up when I accelerated in a certain way. If I kept driving and doing it that certain way it after a while went in to lipmode because I trows engine, transmission, abs, power steering and all sorts of codes.

 

if I drive it in low rpm’s I never does it!

sometimes it never trows a code (rare)

 

NOW! my guess from me reading other peoples similar problems. It’s the alternator regulator? Or ibs cable?

car is pending between 14,5 -15,25v

 and When I turn it off it goes doe to ish 12,40v 

 

i never had water in my spare wheelwell, but I had one of the green relays burnt out on me (changed it)

 

i have videos but but don’t know how to upload. Sorry for bad English and thanx in advance!!!

 

Edit: when it goes in to limp mode and turn it off, it will get same codes after like 10m of driving. But! If I park it over night no problems until I drive it for a while (30-60min) then it starts to throw “small” codes and after a while go in to limp mode. I know for shure the abs and tire-pressure isn’t a real problem with the car i have got the sensors checked and calibrated.

 

codes that comes up randomly is: transmission fault, battery terminal, tire pressure, engine failure, rear light (not broken), abs, power steering, chassie control. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Isacnr7

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15.25V is too high. If you've never changed the alternator regulator I'd start there. It only takes 10 minutes and the regulator comes with new brushes.

 

Unstable voltage will cause lots of random fault codes.

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6 hours ago, JasonH said:

15.25V is too high. If you've never changed the alternator regulator I'd start there. It only takes 10 minutes and the regulator comes with new brushes.

 

Unstable voltage will cause lots of random fault codes.

Yeah i figured i start there! I Will this weekend! Do u know If i need to ”calibrate/mate?” my battery. I disconnected the terminals once, but I have not experienced any new problem since. 

 

Thanx for ur answer!

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For the regulator there is no coding, no programming, just replace it.

 

From memory you can do it from the top of the car. There are perhaps 3 nuts, maybe 10mm, that you undo to remove the cover on the back of the alternator then you can replace the regulator/brush module.

 

Once replaced I'd check the voltage when idling, it shouldn't go above 14.5V. It should be stable. Note that some digital multimeters will really smooth out the voltage reads so you won't see the voltage jumping around.

 

Then delete all the fault codes and see how you go from there.

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8 minutes ago, JasonH said:

For the regulator there is no coding, no programming, just replace it.

 

From memory you can do it from the top of the car. There are perhaps 3 nuts, maybe 10mm, that you undo to remove the cover on the back of the alternator then you can replace the regulator/brush module.

 

Once replaced I'd check the voltage when idling, it shouldn't go above 14.5V. It should be stable. Note that some digital multimeters will really smooth out the voltage reads so you won't see the voltage jumping around.

 

Then delete all the fault codes and see how you go from there.

Thanks! Friend has copmputer and the advanced thingy/coder/reader. He knows bmw pretty good and Will help me with deleting codes. I Will post results here! 

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Now I have changed the regulator! 

I have yet not been able to “force” those codes to show like it did befor! And if iam going to be honest... it kinda feels like it shifts waaay smoother? But is the voltage still to high??? And what is u guys thoughts on the alternator shaft wear? “The squeak in the video is the belt not alternator!

CF2AA980-BDA4-4AE9-A746-CD43798F5FDF.jpeg

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Well the good news is the voltage is stable whatever the revs.

 

The copper on the shaft looks fine to me.

 

14.8V is on the high side but is that meter calibrated? What is the ambient temperature? If it's cold I think a higher charge voltage might be used.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, JasonH said:

Well the good news is the voltage is stable whatever the revs.

 

The copper on the shaft looks fine to me.

 

14.8V is on the high side but is that meter calibrated? What is the ambient temperature? If it's cold I think a higher charge voltage might be used.

 

 

 

I was really cold outside. And i really dont know about that meter, but i have a calibrated one at work :)  I’ll update next week and se if it still works!

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You can use the hidden menu  (accessed by holding the odometer trip reset button) to monitor the voltage as the car sees it. It's menu 9 I think.

 

The temperature used to set the charge voltage will probably come from the IBS located next to the battery - so you can't easily see what that is.

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That slipring looks quite typical to your mileage and to the stage where brushes are worn out. Should be good for at least another 100 tkm. Charge voltage can go a bit over 15 V when the outside temperature goes below 0 C. Most of the modules have over voltage threshold when the voltage goes above 16 V.

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Well.... this morning i hit a deer on the way to work. headlight, hood/fender is bent, front is cracked, impact bar is cracked and ac condenser is leaking.... going to get it inspected at bmw today, and really hope my insurance won’t scrap it :/ fuck it’s my first “real” car and I really like it :(

9F05590A-7185-47BE-A123-FCF34624C9C8.jpeg

E915070E-53F8-45EC-96C4-B4C4EB66E3D7.jpeg

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1 minute ago, Dotcom1970 said:

D'oh..(a deer a female deer...) :lol:

 

Joking aside, glad you're ok, and hopefully the car can be fixed.

Haha thanx! ;) 

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