Jump to content
535i Andrew

F10 offside scuttle drain point clean out

Recommended Posts

Back in March I cleaned out nearside scuttle drain

 

 

and I've been wanting to do the offside ever since. 

 

Jack up and remove the offside front wheel.  

 

39248016-9B91-4149-B8E7-E451098D8889.jpg

 

You now need to remove the wheel arch liner.  There are two large expanding rivets, three smaller expanding rivets and a multitude of 8mm hex bolts to remove.

 

6BE1FB94-438B-4FAA-A628-8F5125EEEA99.jpg

 

This time I used a punch to drift out the centres to the small rivets.  Two rivet centres were lost into oblivion but it was so much easier to remove this time. 

 

10F74657-8B4B-4038-BB99-8DECF47BF9C0.jpg

 

Two 8mm hex bolts on the vertical lower edge of the wheel arch liner and three bolts on the underside.

 

5C3A0156-569A-4C83-99F4-B793CF9244D6.jpg

 

This rivet is a bit of a pig to get out as its recessed into the plastic trim and the rivet passes thru the wheel arch liner.  The head of the rivet broke off and I then drove out the centre shank of the rivet into the front subframe but it managed to fall out as I retrieved it from under the car.  Another 8mm hex bolt too.

 

A2AC11C1-B608-440B-9CD3-EFD63B882112.jpg

 

Remove wheel arch liner from under the wheel arch.  Be prepared for the contents of the top of the wheel arch landing on your head.

 

07980426-A5C1-460F-A310-962237C12702.jpg

 

This exposes the chassis. Unlike the nearside, there was no evidence of standing water, the scuttle drain must be more effective on this side.  That might be due to the design of the scuttle drain flap valve on this side compared to the one on the nearside. The white pipe (which I thought was empty as I had deliberately run down the washer fluid) is the feed pipe to the washer bottle which is tucked in to the left of the picture between the inner and outer wings.  There are also a pair of battery cables.  Sitting above the washer fluid feed pipe just above the flexible part to the left of the battery cables in the rubber scuttle drain flap valve.

 

5542F6CA-8927-45B6-B02D-366CD6856A20.jpg

 

Wrestle it out from its position and clean it up.

 

38FECB75-C739-4800-99F3-19201118927B.jpg

 

Flush out with a hose the scuttle drain from above.  I got in there with a small scrubbing brush which helped to dislodge all these leaves. By the time I had finished the top side of the scuttle drain was back to being silver bodywork colour instead of leaf mould colour.  Ignore the sand, I've just reapplied sand to my driveway bricks.

 

8-DD3216-C-19-D5-4-F91-8-BAB-02-DCA663-C

 

Looking down from above thru the hole in the bottom of the scuttle pan after the drain flap valve had been removed.  I removed the trim panel (three large expanding rivets) above the brake fluid reservoir which is what is to the right of the picture.  The rubber part in the centre of the picture is the rubber grommet the red battery cables pass thru seen below the washer washer bottle feed pipe in an earlier picture. Between the hose and the two cables is leaf mould which I was able to scrub off and return it to silver bodywork.

 

For the life of me I could not get the scuttle drain flap valve back into position without removing the washer bottle feed pipe.

 

 

FF71B061-9AE8-4259-B542-DFFE77CF898D.jpg

 

Gently unclip the feed pipe from the washer bottle and pull it out, its a tapered fit with a lubricated seal. This is when I discovered that despite having "low washer fluid warning" there is still a considerable amount in the feed pipe and in the bottle which emptied over me!   Be careful of the retaining clips on the washer bottle, mine looked slightly stressed.  Move the feed pipe away from the drain point to give you a bit more room to get the scuttle drain flap valve into place.   When you re-attach it fill it up and check for leaks at the joint.

 

49661065-8032-4A73-9B4D-572180B22917.jpg

 

Scuttle drain flap valve back into position, feed pipe still moved out of final position. 

 

8CCE58CF-FD5F-4C89-9AEB-31DDF9FBBFFF.jpg

 

I gave the inner wheel arch/chassis and the wheel arch liner a scrub clean before putting it all back into position.  Make sure the plastic and metal captive nuts for the 8mm hex bolts are all in their correct positions. 

 

I gave my wheel a scrub clean with Bilt Hamber before refitting it and I used by digital torque adapter to tighten the wheel bolts.  You set the torque and it beeps when you reach it while displaying the torque being applied.  I used my 36" long breaker bar which was effortless to tighten them.  

 

9D783148-9E37-40D0-8FE0-96615F667191.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Superb Andrew, jobs like those give such a great level of satisfaction. Also, being able to clean all the areas behind the liner.

 

Did you have a stock of the expanding rivets and the other one with a flat head (the recessed one) to be able to fit is all back?

 

Also, as water collects in these scuttles, there is no issue washing it out when you get the flap out?

 

Also Andrew, can you tell me how many of each connector do you have to take out please as I want to order some spares before I attempt this.............

Edited by nashdm2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you are spot on Dave, I have a selection of sizes of expanding rivets as spares. 

 

I just put each part number of the rivets into eBay and it’s buttons for ten at a time. Use realoem for getting the part numbers. I needed spare when I was taking in and out the boot trim to fit my Ctek charging point.  I’ve so far come across three different sizes of rivets in the car but only two sizes are needed for this job. 

 

It’s just the rear part of the wheel arch liner I remove which is the one that is like a rigid carpet rather than the plastic sections 

 

No issues with washing it out without the drain being in place. I have just driven the car 8 hours after finishing this job and all was well. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Andrew, just purchased the three different parts needed on eBay by typing in the BMW part numbers. Also, mine has mudflats fitted which I guess will need to be removed before starting?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will do, I am sure they connect into some of the screws you took out already. I seem to remember removing 3 or 4screws that hold the liner on, then attaching the mudflap then putting the same screws back in, something like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, nashdm2 said:

Will do, I am sure they connect into some of the screws you took out already. I seem to remember removing 3 or 4screws that hold the liner on, then attaching the mudflap then putting the same screws back in, something like that.

 

Dave, that’s right re mudflap using existing screws and rivets but they are also attached with a strong double sided tape. As your car spends most of its life stuck to the garage floor :rolleyes: like mine (haven’t seen mine in 4 weeks and it’ll be at least 5 by the time I’m home from India), I doubt you will have much to clean out 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes great write up, thanks Andrew. I must get round to doing mine on both sides. They seem to drain reasonably well just now but as the car lives outside all the time they're only going to get worse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Strangely timely I checked mine today all draining very nicely i lobbed some windscreen washer fluid down there to keep it clean, i checked the yellow grommet as well via my endoscope - no major buildup and more importantly no tide mark on the grommet.

 

It is a shame that this continues to be an issue, I think the biggest issue is it being hidden away from day to day activities. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×