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535i Andrew

Wheel stud replacement

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Friend of mine has a lovely Reliant Scimitar GTE SE5A which needs a new set of front wheel studs.

 

Hub in question below.

 

B72-C521-E-3-DB6-45-AD-9238-EDBD9-CEA89-

 

I'm happy to help him replace them as they should just be a press fit into the flange from the rear and engage via splines as per pic 8.11 below (albeit rear wheel shown below)which is from a Cortina Haynes manual. New stud gets pulled into place by means of the wheel nut and washers.

 

A317-DD4-E-B319-45-F0-AB48-9-F52-CDB878-

 

In true Haynes manual fashion no advice whatsoever is given on removing the studs which clearly show them being changed without removing the flange from the car.

 

Any tips for removing a wheel stud in situ without removing the flange from the stub axle?

 

Hammer it out? 

 

The Scimitar front axle set up looks like the brake disc should unbolt from the flange from the rear after removing the complete flange/disc assembly from the stub axle. I'm thinking I could then press out the stud from the flange in my vice (3 tonne) using a large socket on the rear of the flange. But if I don't need to remove the flange/disc from the stub axle that would be preferable.

 

Thanks.

 

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1 hour ago, 535i Andrew said:

Friend of mine has a lovely Reliant Scimitar GTE SE5A which needs a new set of front wheel studs.

 

Hub in question below.

 

B72-C521-E-3-DB6-45-AD-9238-EDBD9-CEA89-

 

I'm happy to help him replace them as they should just be a press fit into the flange from the rear and engage via splines as per pic 8.11 below (albeit rear wheel shown below)which is from a Cortina Haynes manual. New stud gets pulled into place by means of the wheel nut and washers.

 

A317-DD4-E-B319-45-F0-AB48-9-F52-CDB878-

 

In true Haynes manual fashion no advice whatsoever is given on removing the studs which clearly show them being changed without removing the flange from the car.

 

Any tips for removing a wheel stud in situ without removing the flange from the stub axle?

 

Hammer it out? 

 

The Scimitar front axle set up looks like the brake disc should unbolt from the flange from the rear after removing the complete flange/disc assembly from the stub axle. I'm thinking I could then press out the stud from the flange in my vice (3 tonne) using a large socket on the rear of the flange. But if I don't need to remove the flange/disc from the stub axle that would be preferable.

 

Thanks.

 

 

I've had to do similar on a Honda CRX (EF8) and an EG6 Civic; both from Japan and the studs were bit of a mess...

 

We just used a strong G clamp and some mole grips to help wind it on tight and drive the studs out; all depends on what room you've got behind them to do it though and also how strong you are/your grip is as both of the Honda's were an absolute sod! 

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13 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Cheers Dan, I thought about a G clamp and socket on the rear to leave room for the stud to emerge into.

 

But I'm not built like you and my G clamps have a teeny weeny handle.

 

It's worth a bash Andrew

 

It was a clamp like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eclipse-3-75mm-E20-3-G-Clamp-clamping-Heavy-Duty-Direct-from-RDGTools/291515961807 with a small metal cup to go over the stud tip to stop it slipping... Once it moves it's fairly easy then. So a good douse in something like Wurth Rost Off Ice and maybe some heat too will go a long way to help :) 

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13 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Cheers Dan, that doesn't look any beefier than my G Clamps so you are right it's worth a try.

 

Yeah, you don't need a huge one, it's keeping it central that can be fiddly. A small socket will work too, one that doesn't fit over the stud etc

 

As said though, you need to make sure there's enough room at the back for the stud to pop out; otherwise, IIRC, it's a hub off jobby

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Yeah all I've got to go on is the pic above. If the disc covers it, it's a whole new ball game pulling the hub off as you are dealing with the bearings then. Well more like extra work really but all good stuff.

 

Nice, oily, greasy proper job that.:D

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Those wheel studs will have been in that hub flange for over 40 years, good luck with a strong G clamp, it may even crack the hub, being cast iron, you only need to remove the caliper, and hub nut to get it on a hydraulic press, even then no guarentees, or try a bit of heat, and an air impact chisel. Is it definately the hub threads, and not the wheel nuts that have gone. I would be tempted to replace the whole hub, given how  safety critical it is.

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1 hour ago, Steve van hool said:

I would be tempted to replace the whole hub, given how  safety critical it is.

 

Agree which after a bit of discussion, he has gone for a complete rebuild.  New bearings, hubs, studs, discs and all the bolts.

 

The stud I removed with a ball joint separator was already very slightly loose.  Try nearer 50 years those bits have been in there for, its a 1971 car!

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