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Vincenze

Kick in the rusticles

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Looking for someone in SE England that could weld a plate repair on an E39 540i with rear offside rust induced crushed jack point near the rocker.

 

I don't know how to weld (wish I could as would be able to solve many problems).

 

I would cut out a rectangle of rust and grind surfaces. The vertical strut supporting the plastic boot has concertinaed. So, I don't know what to do with that.

 

My brother says the car is a write off. I feel that's extreme. It is still a fabulous drive with the most refined V8 growl Ive ever experienced. However it ain't going to get through an upcoming MOT

 

Cheers in advance

 

Andy

 

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Edited by Vincenze

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Anything can be repaired! I certainly wouldn’t be scrapping it.

I have a 1973 Type2 VW bay in its side in the garage which I have replaced at least 25% of the chassis! Not close enough to you to help but there will be plenty of people who can repair this. It looks quite straight forward.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Exuptoy said:

Anything can be repaired! I certainly wouldn’t be scrapping it.

I have a 1973 Type2 VW bay in its side in the garage which I have replaced at least 25% of the chassis! Not close enough to you to help but there will be plenty of people who can repair this. It looks quite straight forward.

 

 

Good attitude and I agree. That's some rebuild you've undertaken – 25% new plates. You're the offshore man (saw you on the Mig welding site) I guess working on the rigs. So you're probably a pro. I looked at a small welding kit for about £80 160A Tooltronix. I know it'll fall short of the professional's standards but could it do the job? I don't even know what kind of welding I'd use on the car. I guess TIG or MIG – what I call circuit and shorting welding, if you like.

 

 

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Deffo not a write off; stuff like that is generally easily repaired, you just need to make sure you're getting it to a good fabricator and body shop @Vincenze :)

 

Welcome to the forums by the way ;) 

 

If you can, amend your profile so it shows which E39 car it is you have and your general location, so it appears here:

 

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

 

Ask specific E39 questions on the E39 tech section further down the home page too, you'll get better coverage and answers that way

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Cheers Dan for the welcome. I feel I need it after my jack collapse. So much of my life's learning seems to revolve around fixing the BM and also the house (cos the spouse says I need to balance efforts between the two).

 

I am really looking as you say for a good fabricator and body shop in SE England (the corner of Britain where we usually get well ripped off).

 

What lurks beneath the sills – After I get the collapse rear offie fixed I am going to get the plastic guard off and tap away for other horrors fore and aft. I just can't let go of the old girl. Her engine is a pure delight of refined V8 grumble, growl and Grrrr.

Edited by Vincenze

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Welcome to the forum

 

Give BMR Performance a call, they're in Turners Hill, West Sussex.

 

If they can't do this repair, they will certainly know someone who can.

 

http://www.bmrperformance.co.uk

 

Edited by Loadmaster

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5 hours ago, Vincenze said:

What lurks beneath the sills – After I get the collapse rear offie fixed I am going to get the plastic guard off and tap away for other horrors fore and aft.

 

I'd be inclined to check both cills and all four jacking points first,  then if you find more problems you can get it all sorted in one visit rather than going backwards and forwards. 

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@Vincenze if you really want to learn then do yourself the favour of at least purchasing something useable like a Clarke 100e. That’ll do most things on a car. I’ve purchased used ones on sites like Gumtree in the past for less than £100 and go with gas not gasless with flux core wire as it’ll be a better job.

My current welder is the Portamig185 which set me back around £600 but they are superb and it’s surprising how good your work can look when you’re not messing about because of a sh!t machine. I also purchased a cheap Cut 40 plasma cutter which makes light work of cutting out crap.

 

I am indeed the guy on the Mig welding forum but I am by no means a pro, just someone who enjoys a challenge and my welding has certainly gotten better with practice.  

 

Heres a taster with before and afters!

 

3370-BB3-C-06-A9-4130-BD8-B-725-E754635-

 

8-E933-F58-1-CC6-4294-B998-91687-F0-ABBD

 

7-D5-C9-E1-A-1-C53-4-D09-AA87-B2984-C1-F

 

C6-A8-FA80-1-C06-434-C-9-FF0-7-D8398-BE0

 

619-A8-E8-A-9-DA7-4-C72-8425-267-C041-E9


0109-EEC6-FB33-43-B8-94-A2-06-F328-F0-E3

 

8-F8-CED4-A-C650-4-ECA-A3-A0-783-EFE8097


6-CCE5-D25-A4-D8-4-C25-B40-F-B8416-DFD10

 

As I say anything is possible but the only advice I’ll offer is if it goes to an independent it’ll be done and be back to you in minimum time. If you do it yourself, chances are you’ll start digging and it’ll be off the road for quite a time. Mine was purchased as a basket case with no time frame and 8 years on it’s still in the garage but I don’t do a great deal as I usually have too much going on or I won’t weld and grind when my bikes are in the garage so hopefully once I’ve built my new garage for the bikes I’ll have no excuse! :D

 

Edited by Exuptoy

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Paddy, sound advice – If she goes to a body shop, she'll go without the plastic trim for inspection (ie ramming a screwdriver).

 

Cheers Exuptoy. I will look for the Clarke 100e. I'd like to be able to weld – there's so much heavy stuff you can sort out – but I reckon equally complex is the template build. £600 a bit out of my price range, but I will gratefully take your advice (Tooltronix bye bye) and have a gander at the Clarke. Noted:...."gas not gasless with flux core wire as it’ll be a better job". Cut 40 plasma cutter...blimey prefer the price of the CUT50

 

By God that is some restoration. Where did that basket case come from? The bottom of the sea? Lovely to see those gleaming steel plates going in and then butter 'em thick with anti-rust primer (Hammerite?) What's preferred to keep rust out post-weld?

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Haha, the cut 40 was a cheap one on the bay for £90. Paid for itself over and over.

 

I like Bilthamber stuff for cavity injection as it’s been proven by many. Just do a search for Dynax S50. Equally as good is Dinitrol and for painting over work go for Epoxy Mastic which encapsulates it meaning no air can get through to start it rusting, both sold by Rustbuster. EM is as it’s name suggests is a 2 part Epoxy and it stable once cured so it doesn’t matter what is painted over it, it will not react. 

I prefer EM but others use Por-15 from Frost (I don’t lije it as the prep has to be perfect) or Jotun (more solids in the EM) but have a read on each and make your choice, but stay away from Hammerite, it’s crap, go for the more specialised stuff and it’ll last forever!

Edited by Exuptoy

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Machine Mart do discount codes quite regularly which would see 20% knocked off the Clarke stuff. You can have mine the next time it comes but you’d be as well registering on their site yourself.

Regarding templates, just look what’s there! You’ll see how it’s been put together. If you can drill out spotwelds otherwise make it out of cardboard first then transfer to metal, much easier.

 

They have the Clarke 90 or the 110e, seems the 100 is discontinued. Both would be ok depending on budget. The 90 is £231 inc vat. Thats  around £180 on a vat free offer.

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro-90-mig-welder/

Edited by Exuptoy

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Excellent deal. Stick a drum of flux cored wire in the cupboard then when you run out of gas swap it to gasless. You WILL run out of gas at the most inopportune time! Invest in an argon regulator and a bottle of argoshield light 5% as it’ll last longer than a small hobby bottle and welds cleaner than pub gas and welds will be less porous as argon is an inert gas.

gas bottle can be rented. Google BOC volkszone offer. 

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8 hours ago, Exuptoy said:

Excellent deal. Stick a drum of flux cored wire in the cupboard then when you run out of gas swap it to gasless. You WILL run out of gas at the most inopportune time! Invest in an argon regulator and a bottle of argoshield light 5% as it’ll last longer than a small hobby bottle and welds cleaner than pub gas and welds will be less porous as argon is an inert gas.

gas bottle can be rented. Google BOC volkszone offer. 

Thanks Ex you're a star. I'm going for it. There was some discussion about Clarke's made in Italy and those made in China. But frankly the Chinese know how to build stuff to good spec now, so I'm not worried.

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Good to hear that you’re trying it yourself. If you have questions fire away. The mig forum is a good place too for technical advice and those guys will advise on your issue just from clear pics.

 

Remember, make sure you’ve taken the job back to clean metal if you can and listen for that frying bacon sound. It’s actually a good description.

 

my lad was welding recently for his first time the other side of a fence and I told him to turn down the speed and make sure the shield was was close enough to his work and he asked how I knew.....you could hear the stutter as the wire was pushing the gun away from the work piece. I couldn’t even see him working!

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