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Jemster

Dull and Duller

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Here's a couple of incredibly dull questions proving just how few problems I can find with this car! :D So far my post count is embarrassingly low as everything has been great...

 

The biggest gripe I've found is with the front suspension. Is it just me and my car, or are these cars genuinely a little bit clunky going over rough roads? The dealer changed the wishbones for me, it made a slight difference (and certainly helped with the overall feel) but even after going back to the dealership last week and going out with the technician and picking a nasty section of road, he just reckoned that it was standard suspension movement. He took it away onto the ramps and can find no fault. To my ears, it just doesn't seem well damped and I can hear a light clunk when, say, going over a speed hump, as the suspension decompresses on the trailing edge. Also on torn-up road surfaces it seems very noisy at the front. There's no clunk sensation to be felt on the steering wheel so I'm doubting it's rack related. If I were to compare with my old E46 M3, I'd say it was top mounts, but... no fault found... so would I be throwing money away chasing this? Maybe it's the run-flat tyres? 

 

Second dull question... The tailgate release on the remote key fob releases the window hatch (long press) but only works with the car already unlocked. Is there any option for this to work with the car locked if I only want the tailgate to unlock/open? The manual says something vague about some specifications / equipment making it only operate in this manner but no clarity on why/what equipment etc... Every car I've ever owned with a boot release button has worked with the car locked. Perhaps there's a coding option to make this work when locked?


That really was dull... :D

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Haven’t got a tourer , but my f10 started out with run flats but have regular tyres on and my suspension seems a little hard , so maybe tyres ???

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Sorry, do you mean your suspension seems a little hard with regular tyres on? Or the runflats?

 

Mine has runflat Michelins on it, with a good 6+mm of tread so going to be a while before I swap them over for anything else. It's an M-Sport so I guess the suspension is slightly harder than an SE, but I'd certainly not call it hard or sporty :)

 

It's so hard to define what this is, it's not a hard metallic clunk or rattle, it just sounds like something isn't properly damped. I'm not getting the usual dull thuds of metal on rubber that I get from the back end, or from my previous Audi A4 (it also had mid-40k mileage, but of course no runflats). I'll try and make a recording, but suspect it'll be too quiet to be distinguishable.

 

Maybe they're all like it. If I drive <5mph I guess that'll shut it up. Or maybe it's time for a stereo upgrade :)

 

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On 05/08/2019 at 19:15, Jemster said:

Here's a couple of incredibly dull questions proving just how few problems I can find with this car! :D So far my post count is embarrassingly low as everything has been great...

 

The biggest gripe I've found is with the front suspension. Is it just me and my car, or are these cars genuinely a little bit clunky going over rough roads? The dealer changed the wishbones for me, it made a slight difference (and certainly helped with the overall feel) but even after going back to the dealership last week and going out with the technician and picking a nasty section of road, he just reckoned that it was standard suspension movement. He took it away onto the ramps and can find no fault. To my ears, it just doesn't seem well damped and I can hear a light clunk when, say, going over a speed hump, as the suspension decompresses on the trailing edge. Also on torn-up road surfaces it seems very noisy at the front. There's no clunk sensation to be felt on the steering wheel so I'm doubting it's rack related. If I were to compare with my old E46 M3, I'd say it was top mounts, but... no fault found... so would I be throwing money away chasing this? Maybe it's the run-flat tyres? 
 

 

Your symptoms sound similar to those I had on my F11 when going over a bumpy road surface it sounded like the shocks were bottoming out and clunking. I had it in for the dealer to try repair it. I went for a test drive with one of their senior technicians who heard the noise. I left the car with him and the lower front wishbones were replaced and then the offside shock absorber was replaced. The drove the car with their electronic stethoscope attached and still the noise remained. It never did get fixed but it stopped worrying me as the most critical parts were replaced with the same effect so it wasn’t as if the suspension was going to drop off. 
I had run flats but the noise was nothing to do with those. I think it was an inherent noise within the design of the shock absorber or top mounts. 

 

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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Interesting. Yeah, I'm thinking it's "just the car". I am a little surprised as overall it is so refined and well behaved. Nothing to get worked up about, I am terrible with noises that nobody else ever hears, but if there is something wrong I'd rather it was fixed under the AUC warranty than out of my own pocket :)

 

Now to try to stop that little compartment door below the light switches from buzzing/rattling gently.... :D

 

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Sometimes I think my car (and the E60s before) is a bit crashy from the suspension. There is nowt wrong with my suspension components or tyres.

 

But when you can push such a big pudding of a car into a bend at 60mph, it grips and goes round the bend like it's on rails, I give a smile each time as I know it's planted and any suspension crash is usually down to poor road surfaces.

 

On new or decent sections of road it's sublime.

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Just thought I'd pop by and update this thread.

 

I wrote about my issue with the suspension clunks on another board that I shall not name here but is a resurrected Land that I never knew existed. Another user had experienced similar and tightened down the 3 bolts (screws) holding the strut under the bonnet. I know these should not be over-tightened as they are into alloy and single-use so I took it gently and gave them a small tweak each - some felt marginally looser than others.

 

Guess what. The noise has been drastically reduced. There's still a very very slight sound out of it but nothing like what I had before. I am now a bit puzzled as to what this could be indicative of as I don't see how they could just work loose. From what I can work out from newtis they are only meant to be tightened to 28Nm which is surprisingly light. I am wondering if this means the top mount itself is deformed.... any thoughts?

 

 

 

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On 8/5/2019 at 5:15 PM, Jemster said:

Here's a couple of incredibly dull questions proving just how few problems I can find with this car! :D So far my post count is embarrassingly low as everything has been great...

 

The biggest gripe I've found is with the front suspension. Is it just me and my car, or are these cars genuinely a little bit clunky going over rough roads? The dealer changed the wishbones for me, it made a slight difference (and certainly helped with the overall feel) but even after going back to the dealership last week and going out with the technician and picking a nasty section of road, he just reckoned that it was standard suspension movement. He took it away onto the ramps and can find no fault. To my ears, it just doesn't seem well damped and I can hear a light clunk when, say, going over a speed hump, as the suspension decompresses on the trailing edge. Also on torn-up road surfaces it seems very noisy at the front. There's no clunk sensation to be felt on the steering wheel so I'm doubting it's rack related. If I were to compare with my old E46 M3, I'd say it was top mounts, but... no fault found... so would I be throwing money away chasing this? Maybe it's the run-flat tyres? 

 

Second dull question... The tailgate release on the remote key fob releases the window hatch (long press) but only works with the car already unlocked. Is there any option for this to work with the car locked if I only want the tailgate to unlock/open? The manual says something vague about some specifications / equipment making it only operate in this manner but no clarity on why/what equipment etc... Every car I've ever owned with a boot release button has worked with the car locked. Perhaps there's a coding option to make this work when locked?


That really was dull... :D

 

Interesting point about front suspension, I also have exactly what you are saying nothing major at all, just a bit crashy over small lumps/bumps in the road at low speed. I dont think there is anything, just coming from an 320d SE Tourer (running 16's and big side walls) and now going to 530d Msport Touring (running 19's, low profiles)...

I will look into the top bolts with my torque wrench to see if makes any difference as you have seen.

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I had the misfortune to drive thru one of these modern cold and soulless new housing estates built with lots of speed bumps.  I failed to see the first one until the last minute as it was the same construction as the road and hit it at 30mph and the noise was quite noticeable.  My suspension particularly the front was noisy in as far as hitting the speed bumps until speed was right down.

 

Back on the proper roads all was well.  I'll check my top mounts for tightness. The strut brace bars need to come off for air con condenser replacement and BMW fail to replace the bolts that TIS say to replace so might be worth checking them too for security. 

 

 

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I also have a slight clunk from the off side when going over rough surfaces. Been into dealer twice, they couldn’t find a fault. 
 

when I press the third button down on my fob the car unlocks (if it is locked) and the tailgate opens. When I push the bottom button the car unlocks and the glass opens. I programmed this through the iDrive when I first got the car. 

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What year is yours Abacus? Don’t think there’s a setting for the diamond button on mine in iDrive (2011), would be good to make it do something useful. I miss it being able to open the boot without unlocking the rest of the car.

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7 hours ago, Jemster said:

What year is yours Abacus? Don’t think there’s a setting for the diamond button on mine in iDrive (2011), would be good to make it do something useful. I miss it being able to open the boot without unlocking the rest of the car.

Mine is a 2015 (‘65)

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On 11/1/2019 at 6:14 PM, AbacusF11 said:

Mine is a 2015 (‘65)

 

Yeah, I think they added a few options to the LCI model. Like being able to programme the diamond button and also to be able to adjust those pretty much useless ambient lights (would love to be able to set them at a level that can actually be seen without setting the dash brightness to blinding!)

 

Reading around I see another common point regarding the noisy front suspension is that anybody complaining seems to have an M-Sport model, the standard suspension seems to be quiet. I think my snake oil is wearing off as it felt a bit clunky last night. Oh well...

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I have some dull and boring questions also.

1) On my F10, the boot will not open from the key fob unless I unlock the car. Is that how its meant to work?

2) On my E60 when I turned the car off the interior light would come on, but that doesn't happen on my F10. Is there a setting or instruction I need to change?

3) I don't use my car very often and I'm not getting the "battery discharge if left stationery" warning. Today I had battery needs charging?  Do I need to get a new battery or use the car more?

 

I have a 2011 523i Auto. My only gripe is the car is little slow  to move from stationery, as in the car seem to moving through alot gear to get going.  My E60 was a 530i on a 2004 plate and it was rapid really quick.  However the 523i is on another level interms of quality, fit and finish and I can't believe how economical it is. 

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