Jump to content
mm4319

520d Electrical woes. Help please!!

Recommended Posts

Hi folks

Longish post unfortunately 

I have had my 2008 520d Touring for approx 4 weeks, but only had operational for a few days of that due to various errors, which I now think maybe erroneous. So far it’s had approx £1000 (DPF, EGR valve, glow plugs, glow plug relay and boost control valve) spent on it, and still not running properly. One day it’s ok, the next it’s not running well. On both occasions it showed error codes relatiNg to the EGR, even after it was replaced. But the garage verified it was cycling when the ignition is switched on. So I got hold of Ista to try and work out what was going on. It shows different errors each time I run it. I saw elsewhere the importance of having the correct battery fitted. When I checked the cars ecu shows it’s set for 80Ah AGM, and doesn’t show any changes. But in the boot is a std Halfords battery but it’s 95Ah. It looks fairly new though. 

My question is :

Do I replace the battery with an 80Ah AGM type? 

 

Or

 

Try and update/code the current battery in to the cars ECU?

 

In the hope that the car will operate consistently 

 

Tia

 

Mark

1D179C54-7201-42DB-8386-1FE0359FFE94.jpeg

B7925881-3676-44CD-AE12-3FB57A34D7D9.jpeg

58EF8067-33F6-4FE6-8BC9-B84701E21CCC.jpeg

9B86C9BF-1B79-428F-ADF2-A671A4397E59.jpeg

2DEF3A4A-0AE2-44BA-97E8-715C1937579B.jpeg

BEA1F1EA-3170-44E0-B9E7-06DDB2FD9BDB.jpeg

159E062B-11CA-444C-8D07-AF1FFF52621D.jpeg

EC8D2DF5-2992-4FBF-9DA1-066E36134A6D.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi folks

Longish post unfortunately 

I have had my 2008 520d Touring for approx 4 weeks, but only had operational for a few days of that due to various errors, which I now think maybe erroneous. So far it’s had approx £1000 (DPF, EGR valve, glow plugs, glow plug relay and boost control valve) spent on it, and still not running properly. One day it’s ok, the next it’s not running well. On both occasions it showed error codes relatiNg to the EGR, even after it was replaced. But the garage verified it was cycling when the ignition is switched on. So I got hold of Ista to try and work out what was going on. It shows different errors each time I run it. I saw elsewhere the importance of having the correct battery fitted. When I checked the cars ecu shows it’s set for 80Ah AGM, and doesn’t show any changes. But in the boot is a std Halfords battery but it’s 95Ah. It looks fairly new though. 

My question is :

Do I replace the battery with an 80Ah AGM type? 

 

Or

 

Try and update/code the current battery in to the cars ECU?

 

In the hope that the car will operate consistently 

 

Tia

 

Mark

1D179C54-7201-42DB-8386-1FE0359FFE94.thumb.jpeg.282f9ba271e69cd700db2e4743fa363b.jpeg

B7925881-3676-44CD-AE12-3FB57A34D7D9.thumb.jpeg.8908a36ecc596d3efad6dc6a3808c3fd.jpeg

58EF8067-33F6-4FE6-8BC9-B84701E21CCC.thumb.jpeg.9443913e50389d980fd52392757ccc64.jpeg

9B86C9BF-1B79-428F-ADF2-A671A4397E59.thumb.jpeg.d872ad2a24fa28fcc9562eca2857db06.jpeg

2DEF3A4A-0AE2-44BA-97E8-715C1937579B.thumb.jpeg.5cf06baded7848aa00247bbba108e321.jpeg

BEA1F1EA-3170-44E0-B9E7-06DDB2FD9BDB.thumb.jpeg.ad551b38c4f73daf38a813ff925f53f4.jpeg

159E062B-11CA-444C-8D07-AF1FFF52621D.thumb.jpeg.5de11f445e105c6ad608b1a2933061c9.jpeg

EC8D2DF5-2992-4FBF-9DA1-066E36134A6D.thumb.jpeg.c2e26e4b721c6921ef007d8ad029f1fa.jpeg

If you have ISTA P you can code to 90ah AGM, the new battery was never registered either so that is an issue. If you don't have ISTA P you can change it with NCS expert.

You also need to check the IBS connection

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

If you have ISTA P you can code to 90ah AGM

I don't think the Halfords jobbie is AGM though. I assume not, so think it gets coded as standard lead-acid. (B090 BATT_90AH //90 Ah-Batterie)

 

Keliuss

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best get it correctly registered and/or coded if only to rule them out as possible causes. 

I was interested to see that if you zoom right in on the battery pic it appears to have both BMW and Mini logos moulded into the casing. Not that that will be causing your problems. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, pidgeonpost said:

I was interested to see that if you zoom right in on the battery pic it appears to have both BMW and Mini logos moulded into the casing.

That's the battery connector on the car. Not the Halfords battery

 

Keliuss

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't think the Halfords jobbie is AGM though. I assume not, so think it gets coded as standard lead-acid. (B090 BATT_90AH //90 Ah-Batterie)
 
Keliuss
Yeah looks like it is standard, no wonder is throwing a tizzy

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice folks, I’ll have a look tomorrow. I just hope the cars electrics aren’t totally gimped because of it, so fingers crossed. 

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the IBS has totally failed or is disconnected (which likely is the case) it doesn't matter what battery is coded there because the intelligent alternator control is out of play anyway and charging with constant voltage like in the old days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks

 

Wee update folks. I decided to replace the battery with a proper 80Ah AGM type as it has in the ecu. Followed the instructions on ISTA, and registered it. Read the fault codes after leaving it for a bit and came up ‘4A25 BSD Intelligent Battery Sensor’. So started the car and it was running lumpy initially but cleared after about a min. It showed a fault on the iDrive ‘oil sensor faulty’ Are these faults related or one in the same? I did replace the battery negative/IBS when I replaced the battery, to try and rule that out. I’ve added relevant pics

 

Mark

 

8EE82696-5C70-404A-BB98-7C87FE5080CA.jpeg

7678FB2C-055F-46F1-8170-5E9DB47930DE.jpeg

543E78C4-4ECA-4885-8EB0-48850ABD18A5.jpeg

392CA4A8-D5D5-41CD-BFFD-02B7000F9E6E.jpeg

09DA1AB3-05A7-453D-8D92-461E7B5CDCE0.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After taking the battery out these cars tend to throw a "wobbly" so clear all codes after a full charge and 24 hours rest time to let the IBS monitor things and see where you stand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mm4319 said:

Read the fault codes after leaving it for a bit and came up ‘4A25 BSD Intelligent Battery Sensor’. So started the car and it was running lumpy initially but cleared after about a min. It showed a fault on the iDrive ‘oil sensor faulty’ Are these faults related or one in the same? 

 

 

These faults are likely related because both components are on the same BSD bus.

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-520d-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/digital-diesel-electronics3/interfaces/bit-serial-data-interface-bsd/XCItyYH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×