Jump to content
duncan-uk

Touring subframe mounts

Recommended Posts

Have a feeling i need to do these again (after about 30k) symptoms are:

 

clunk from rear if on/off power in low gear

clunk if an unsypathetic gear change

back end seems more rattly than usual.

 

Does that sound about right?

 

Used Meyle HD last time which i can get for £130 but any other suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the Meyle HD bushes, and hired the tool from Jimmy.

 

Cheaper than buying one, and he has a good quality tool, so peace of mind that it is up to the task ;)

Edited by Hippy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know absolutely nothing about Touring subframe bushes,  but 30,000 miles doesn't sound right,  especially if you used heavy duty bushes. 

Or does it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i'm having to do my TCA's after a similar mileage.

 

Perhaps its the shocking state of our roads - i'm running 17" so hardly bone shaking

 

Something is awry - possibly diff mount but the rattling of the dog crate seems to suggest its not that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had similar knock, that turned out to be the left engine mount. Only found it after changing subframe (which were knackered), gearbox, and diff mounts... 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting, was your rear more shuddery than usual though?

 

In the process of doing front TCA's (What a PITA) so will see what rattles are left after that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Duncan,

probably something for a separate thread but are you able to share your woes learnings on doing the front TCA's?

Something I'm thinking about doing as getting wheel vibration and funny juddering noises from the brakes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure. As it's my own thread I'll respond here.

 

The problem I have always found is the ball joint splitter.

 

I have an e39 specific splitter as the franklin 331 which is ideal is discontinued.

 

I will try and find a link.

 

Previously I have tried the fork type. Butchered a sealey one and a franklin 330 which just doesn't have the reach.

 

Rear arms are pretty accessible but the front requires the arch liner, under tray, brake duct and various bits to be removed plus the damper sliding up on the hub carrier.

 

Today's top tip is disconnect the arb drop link for that bit.

 

Despite the proper splitter I struggled and seem to have moved the insert in the hub carrier. F*** knows how so I need to reseat that.

 

Had to stop for my kids school play but what was supposed to be an easy if involved day was a PITA.

 

Currently up on ramps and I can't get back to it till Friday.

 

It should be easy if laborious but I struggled last time too.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

The problem I have always found is the ball joint splitter.

I have an e39 splitter as the franklin 331 which is ideal is discontinued.

 

A few years ago I bought this one which is exactly similar as original BMW tool and happens to be the same quality too. It has been a joy using this and just wondered why on earth didn't I buy sooner.

 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Kugelgelenk-Abzieher-enge-Platzverhaltnisse-groser-Spannweite-24-27-31-36-mm/122422753315?hash=item1c80f6f823:g:6HMAAOSw5eRdJJOJ

Edited by Clavurion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blimey Duncan sounds very familiar. Think they designed the suspension 'for display purposes only"!!

 

Just did the rear control arms one side a doddle, but the other so rusted that the whole ball joint just spun round when undoing the nut. Tried mole grips but it stripped them. Eventually used a nut splitter that could only half do the job because the nut had a washer pressed into it!

 

As for the Traction Arm, gave up, couldn't even access the rear bolt. 

 

As for the purpose of this thread, have you considered the prop shaft universal joint for the clunks/rattles?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Prop shaft done a while back. It's a differ sound to that and the rear shuddering leads me to believe its subframe bushes again.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
A few years ago I bought this one which is exactly similar as original BMW tool and happens to be the same quality too. It has been a joy using this and just wondered why on earth didn't I buy sooner.
 
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Kugelgelenk-Abzieher-enge-Platzverhaltnisse-groser-Spannweite-24-27-31-36-mm/122422753315?hash=item1c80f6f823:g:6HMAAOSw5eRdJJOJ

This is what I have:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/24-Mm-BMW-E39-Ball-Joint-Separator-Kit/1137525162

Works well but I find the length of the ball joint thread is always near the limit of the opening.

Today it was a real struggle and as I say I seem to have moved the seat.

Plan is to use the rear ball joint puller I have to reseat.

On this all guidance is to weight the car for torquing. I did this with bags of sand last time I then returned to wickes. They've lasted 30k is this necessary or should I just torque under own body weight?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

On this all guidance is to weight the car for torquing. I did this with bags of sand last time I then returned to wickes. They've lasted 30k is this necessary or should I just torque under own body weight?

 

Vehicle's own weight (or hub supported to same height), nothing else needed. This concerns the bush ends only. Ball joints don't mind in what position they are torqued.

 

By the way those steel sleeve inserts are sold separately on ebay if you happen to break one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Huge thanks Clav. Hoping to reseat it as no idea how I managed to shift it as seemingly I needed to get the splitter under it some how.

Today's struggles should make the remaining arms a stroll in the park. # famous last words....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Interesting, was your rear more shuddery than usual though?

 


The subframe mounts were noticeable on rougher roads, where everything got very clattery at the back. Particularly so with passengers in the back.

The engine  mount was as you describe:  on/off power, and harsher gear changes. Weirdly, it sounded like it was coming from the diff mounts.

 

Had the same on my last two 530ds. I think the left engine mount must see a lot more torque, as it had fatigued through at the base.  mount.thumb.jpg.f401fe6bb867f0ed4b89314060f82553.jpg    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only if it’s hanging off :D

 

There’s the two elements: the guibo  (!)  and the Universal Joint. Jack the rear up and put it on stands(can’t remember if you have to do just one side or get both wheels off the ground due to the diff) . Take the handbrake off and turn the wheels by hand back and forth to see if there is any play. It may need two people one to hold the prop shaft while the other turns the wheels to see  if you can  feel any play it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, duncan-uk said:

Could you see by visual inspection?


Not really, only when lifting the engine.

One way to test is with the bonnet up, start the car and and put it in gear, look for any excess rocking movement in the engine. like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX_uXd524Qo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Mashmanu said:

Only if it’s hanging off :D

 

There’s the two elements: the guibo  (!)  and the Universal Joint. Jack the rear up and put it on stands(can’t remember if you have to do just one side or get both wheels off the ground due to the diff) . Take the handbrake off and turn the wheels by hand back and forth to see if there is any play. It may need two people one to hold the prop shaft while the other turns the wheels to see  if you can  feel any play it.

 

Ive done the donut, its not that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, sinner said:


Not really, only when lifting the engine.

One way to test is with the bonnet up, start the car and and put it in gear, look for any excess rocking movement in the engine. like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX_uXd524Qo 

 

Is he/ she trying to pull away but held on hand brake?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have thought you should get way more than 30k, having renewed the subframe mounts!

Is it worth trying dealer OE ones next time.

 

Would I be right in thinking that the only wear/forces the subframe bushes should be subject to are, fore and aft, or acceleration, and braking forces, and maybe a small amount on cornering, cars travel in a straight line most of the time.

Edited by Steve van hool

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
By the way those steel sleeve inserts are sold separately on ebay if you happen to break one.


Do you have a link please? One of mine doesn't look brilliant.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×