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d_a_n1979

E39 dash cam wiring

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Who's got an E39 with a dash cam hard-wired in?

 

If so, which fuse did you use in the glovebox?

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Are you using a fuse adapter, because the fuse box won't close with one of those in.

 

Edit:

 

Edited by Qasim

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8 minutes ago, Qasim said:

Are you using a fuse adapter, because the fuse box won't close with one of those in.

 

Edit:

 

 

I'll be using the hardwire kit that comes with the dash cam (Nextbase 512 FYI)

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5 minutes ago, Clavurion said:

Do you have sunroof and where are you planning to install the camera? Do you want it permanently live or via ignition switch?

 

Nope, no sunroof.

 

Want it in front of the rear view mirror so I can hardly see it

 

It'll be permanently mounted, but want it off with ignition; don't want it running whilst the cars locked up etc

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Use any of the empty slots on fuse panel. The voltage rail side socket is there. Just measure which one is switched voltage. Get a double leaf terminal from BMW for the other side of the empty fuse slot.

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37 minutes ago, Clavurion said:

Use any of the empty slots on fuse panel. The voltage rail side socket is there. Just measure which one is switched voltage. Get a double leaf terminal from BMW for the other side of the empty fuse slot.

 

What...?

 

:lol: 

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The wiring I have for the dash cam is to be used with an existing fuse and has a slot on it for the other fuse to be put back in... So why would I need to buy another piece to fit this; or will this hardwire kit wire not fit in the fuse box?

 

Not trying to be a PITA; just trying to understand before I go in with my sledgehammer :):lol: 

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Due to the E39s drop down fuse box. There isn't really any space for a fuse adapter. You can have a go but I've tried with one and it wouldn't close. What @Clavurion is saying is that the empty slots have either a constant or an accessory live to them. The other side of the fuse slot is empty. You can put a double spring leaf terminal for the power and ground it on a factory grounding point somewhere.

 :D

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Sup Dan,

 

Recently hardwired a NextBase 412 into my 525 touring, which is running from the glove compartment fuse box. Ran the cable into headliner alongside rear mirror support, along to near side, down the A pillar and had a bastard of a time fishing for the end behind that glovebox. Agro but found it in the end, and fed it in through the open back of the fuse box.

 

Used the NextBase kit which has the piggyback fuse adaptor. As mentioned above, fusebox is tight due to design, but managed to find the ideal slot and not dislodged despite having fusebox down several times since. In the centre of the trim above the glovebox (well, mine at least, I'm assuming that your Nippon export is the same) there is a cut out section, runs from fuse 20 to 26/27ish. Fuse 21 lines up perfectly to fit without catching when closed. Fuse 21 is for rear view mirror dimming, drivers seat adjustment and garage opener. Only live when key in accessory / engine running position. It's a 5A fuse, from memory I think NextBase recommend no higher than 10A? Worked like a charm, no issues. Attached pic of mine below...

 

Final note - the actual body of the piggyback fuse which they supplied is a fraction wider than the body of a fuse. REALLY tight fit, at first I thought it wouldn't fit at all, just took some persuasion. 

20190207_170536.jpg

Edited by Pzero

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On 10/06/2019 at 03:15, d_a_n1979 said:

The wiring I have for the dash cam is to be used with an existing fuse and has a slot on it for the other fuse to be put back in... So why would I need to buy another piece to fit this; or will this hardwire kit wire not fit in the fuse box?

 

Not trying to be a PITA; just trying to understand before I go in with my sledgehammer :):lol: 

 

Sorry for the late reply, I forgot to tick the box to be notified of follow-up posts.

 

It's probably possible to use the harness supplied. Crimp a male spade terminal on the end of the harness and insert it into an empty slot in the gloved box fuse block from the front, sort of as though it were half a fuse. The wire can be bent up over the fuse block and fished through to the back to pick up the connection to your in-line fuse for the dash cam.

 

The method in the links in my original post is simply a little "cleaner looking" No difference in functionality so long as you use an in-line fuse for the dash cam. Fusing into the fuse block (via the fuse block in the front floor) will be 80A or more. Much too large to protect wiring in the event of a short in the dash cam circuit.

 

EDIT: I should have said that the adapter in your post's picture will probably work too. But I think it would have to be inserted the right way round. I.e. so the take off to the dash cam is on the protected side of the fuse slot. I can't recall off hand if the lower or upper side of the E39 fuse block is source or load side.

 

Regards

RDL

Edited by rdl

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Thanks folks

 

I've seen a few E39s now with the Nextbase dashcam wired in, with the Nextbase hardwire kit and it just fits, so will go with that for now.

 

Any issues and I'll report back :) 

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Fitted my dash cam today; used fuse 21 also and it's a smooth fitting; fed the wire around and under the glove box, between that and the finishing trim that sits there, up the A pillar and pushed into the headlining etc

 

The cam is situated just in front of the rear view mirror; I can't see it from the drivers side, so it's sat exactly where I want it and not a distraction :)

 

Comes on with ignition and goes off with the ignition; happy days 8) 

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1 hour ago, Sandip said:

Pics!

(Of the fuse and wiring)

 

‘Same as the pic above pal, literally 

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1 minute ago, Sandip said:

Trying to fit mine today, what earth point did you use?  What is closest to glovebox?

 

If you look between the glovebox and inner wing, so to speak, there's a small screw there that goes straight to metal. I loosened that, clipped the earth connector to it and then tightened 

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Nope can't see it, guessing trim needs to come off?

 

I've managed to get the wire down from behind the rear view mirror by only removing the a trim pillar!

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2 minutes ago, Sandip said:

Nope can't see it, guessing trim needs to come off?

 

I've managed to get the wire down from behind the rear view mirror by only removing the a trim pillar!

 

Nope; I didn't remove anything apart from taking the straps off the glove box so it could open fully (the little square clips pop off easy enough) :) 

 

Fed the wire down to the door rubber trim, up between that and the dash, up the A pillar and then pressed into the headlining till the RVM ;) 

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41 minutes ago, Sandip said:

Yep, done the same. And found the earth point and it works!

 

Spot on!

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I ended up converting my (useless) BMW torch into 12V socket. Into that I have plugged an FM transmitter / Bluetooth receiver for music streaming and into that I have plugged my dash cam power feed (as the transmitter has a pair of USB ports too) - then similarly to Dan I have run the wiring up the a pillar, across the headlining and installed the dash cam behind the mirror so I don’t even see it.

 

A nice, hidden, but effective switched solution for running the camera. 

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