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PliSsK

540i M62 / B10 V8 facelift coolant change

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Going to attempt my first DIY coolant change on my 2001 facelift Alpina B10 V8 4.6L. This is based on the M62 540i engine. It had it's one and only full coolant flush in August 2015 using a hose at the indie garage, before then the stealer never changed the coolant as it was 'lifetime' allegedly. Low mileage however, only 67k. What method of coolant change do you recommend using? From what I've read (manual 170-10) it seems one has to drain from the bottom of the radiator and also remove the 2 drain plugs from the engine block (one at a time), located underneath the exhaust manifold on each side of the engine. Is this the best way? Is this a one man job or do I need someone to spot me from above to help guide my socket wrench to drain plug?

 

Is there actually a drain plug on the post-2000 radiator or do I need to disconnect the lower radiator hose? If the latter, how does the hose come off? On the pre-2000 cars I think it was just butterfly clips that held all the hoses on from sad experience of them coming off lol. I will presumably need new and greased up o-rings for the drain plugs. Is anyone able to confirm whether it is part no. 17111711987 (no.4 on the diagram) please? Going to use 12.5L of 50% Comma G48 50% deionised water, I presume it's ok to just pour it in alternately. Cheers!

   

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DN61-EUR-03-2001-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=17_0162

Edited by PliSsK

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Can only speak from experience on my S62 engine (E39 M5) which has I think the same basic architecture as the M62.

 

Draining the engine from the rad and the two engine block drain ports is the best way to remove all the old coolant. Draining from the rad only doesn't get anywhere near as much coolant out of the system.

 

The two engine block ports have somewhat awkward access and I found it best to have good access from underneath, not least to catch the huge amount of gushing coolant. IIRC the two engine block drain ports will require new metal washers. Good idea to flush the block with fresh water..... but only if you're prepared to put up with a lot of mess!

 

I disconnected the lower hose to drain the rad. If yours is like the S62 set up then you pull/slide a large metal clip partially out which then allows you to tug/pull and get the hose off the rad. (A thin screwdriver is best for levering the metal clip up). Whole job is best done with good access to the underneath of the car. Take care. The end of the hose has a plastic fitting as does the rad and both may well be brittle from age. There's a large 'O' ring inside the hose assembly that would be worth lubing lightly before reassembly.

 

From the Realoem diagram it looks like you have a water cooled alternator as that 'O' ring you reference is part of the voltage regulator?

 

I like to pre-mix the coolant before I put it in the cooling system since I can ensure the 50% solution, but putting the concentrate in first would also be fine I'm sure. G48  from Comma is the correct stuff and is well priced.

 

Here's a useful link: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1443780-where-s-the-coolant-drain-plug-that-on-the-engine-block-in-the-540

Edited by DepthHoar

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Hi DepthHoar, that was extremely helpful, thanks very much! I'll just be having the car up on ramps so should be enough height hopefully.

 

Yes I gave you completely the wrong diagram lol...I think this diagram of the engine block is the right one. Part 16 drain plug (07119904539) and 18 washer (07119963225).

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DN61-EUR-03-2001-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=11_7487

 

Do you bother replacing the engine block drain plugs as well as the washers then or just the washers only? When I do the oil change I replace both washer and drain plug, they were both very cheap, perhaps not necessary.

 

Cheers.

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I replaced both drain plugs and washers but honestly only chaging the washers will be fine. Was overkill....but I tend to be a bit like that when working on the M5! The bolts and washers are both pretty cheap.

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Yes they were pretty cheap. BTW does the coolant gush out down the side of the engine and go everywhere but the drain pan if you just pull the drain plug out?

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Re-reading that thread, do you use any kind of sealant or silicone grease on the washer when you replace the engine block plugs? I assume you just need to give the two drain ports a wipe and dry them off before putting the plug back in. Cheers!

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Not sure it was really necessary but I did use a little sealant....but can't remember which type. Pretty sure it would be fine to just re-secure the drain plug with clean, dry threads without sealant and just a new washer.

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Thanks. One question on the lower hose between the radiator and the tuna can, it seems to connect at each end with a black plastic L-shaped pipe. The end of the hose is clamped onto these L-shaped pipes with a shiny metal ring, but it doesn't look like a crimp clip or a screw on hose clip. Is this the clip you are referring to or something else? Is the goal to pull the hose off this plastic L-shaped tube hanging off the bottom of the rad, or is the goal to pull the L-shaped plastic pipe out from the bottom of the rad? If the latter then I guess I haven't yet seen the clip you are referring to.

 

Realoem shows the hose and the two L-shaped pipes as one assembly (item 5 in diagram below) so it seems to suggest one could remove the L-shaped pipe from the rad rather than pulling the hose

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DN61-EUR-03-2001-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=11_2267

 

ECS tuning has a pic of the clip end piece here.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/coolant-hose-expansion-tank/11531711385/

 

Cheers.

Edited by PliSsK

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Re. #5 on Realoem. Can't help with that one. The M62 is different to the S62 in that particular detail. #5 is not used on the S62 but is on all the other V8s in the E39 model range.

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Ok, scratching my head on this one. Maybe I'll ask on one of the US forums as everyone has a V8 on there. Thanks for all the help so far. I ID'd the location of the two engine block drain plugs whilst I was down there and the right one is indeed very hard to access like many people are saying, impossible in my case without a wobble extension or similar, or perhaps using a good ole conventional spanner. I have a swivel extension but I need the swivel literally right above the socket for it to work out.

Edited by PliSsK

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Hey thanks Rosie, you are a star!! Is that from the Bentley manual? It didn't mention it in the chapter on the cooling system in the version I have.

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It’s from TIS.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-540i-lim/repair-manuals/17-cooling/17-00-cooling-check/2dmgRUC

And the RH block drain plug can only be accessed with a spanner.
I have a feeling that the plug doesn’t even come out - it hits the exhaust manifold - but it has a passage drilled into it to allow the coolant out.

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Ahh thanks, I need to start looking at TIS. A spanner seemed the most obvious thing to be personally as there is quite good direct access to just one side of the plug, and I can quite believe that it won't fully come out, but there are posts from members of other forums who claim they did it using regular socket extensions or wobble extensions although it is possible they were referring to an M52 engine or otherwise even though they were commenting on a thread about the M62. Cheers.

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there are posts from members of other forums who claim they did it using regular socket extensions or wobble extensions


M62’s in E39’s are different between LHD & RHD - the exhaust manifolds are different and the starter motors are on the opposite side. (And obviously the steering boxes)
It’s possible that you were reading about a LHD car.

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Yes you are right. Found the post in question, was a US forum, members were complaining about the left engine block drain plug being hard to access not the right one as on the RHD M62 E39. Thanks again!

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On 23/02/2019 at 20:03, Rosie said:

You turn the L shaped plastic piece about 45degrees anti clockwise and then wiggle it gently out of the bottom of the radiator.

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The L shaped piece seems to rotate anticlockwise up to about 90 degrees, but in no position does it seem to want to come loose and be pulled out towards the ground. I tried wiggling it from side to side. Does this require brute force?

 

Edit: My tools were garbage, I bought a better quality spanner and pushing it in the gap meant it locked onto the right engine block drain plug 100% flush :-)

Edited by PliSsK

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The L shaped piece seems to rotate anticlockwise up to about 90 degrees, but in no position does it seem to want to come loose and be pulled out towards the ground. I tried wiggling it from side to side. Does this require brute force?


No, brute force shouldn’t be necessary. If you break the fitting, you’ll be in strife.
Wiggle as you’re pulling it down (out) - the O ring will be holding it - once it starts to move it will then come out.
You could try some penetrating spray in there.

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27 minutes ago, Rosie said:

 


No, brute force shouldn’t be necessary. If you break the fitting, you’ll be in strife.
Wiggle as you’re pulling it down (out) - the O ring will be holding it - once it starts to move it will then come out.
You could try some penetrating spray in there.

Thanks! So anywhere between 45 and 90 deg anticlockwise should be enough of a turn to unlock it?

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Turn it the full 90. (I was going off memory when I said 45 but I pulled the drain plug out of the bottom of my radiator yesterday and I can confirm it is 90)

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11 minutes ago, Rosie said:

Turn it the full 90. (I was going off memory when I said 45 but I pulled the drain plug out of the bottom of my radiator yesterday and I can confirm it is 90)

Thanks for the input!

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The Comma G48 concentrate is 2x as concentrated as the ready mixed Comma G48 coolant. Does the 50/50 coolant mix recommendation apply to the standard strength coolant or the concentrate? I was wondering whether I only need 25% G48 concentrate or whether it was in fact 50% that was required in the coolant mix. Cheers.

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