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DISA valves on the n52

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Hi all

I’ve finally plucked up the courage to run a quick check of the car via the diag software, was afraid of what horrors might be lurking in the stored codes ( thanks to @jimmy for the quick delivery of the cable and software).

 

Thankfully only two engine codes stored 2aac and 2aa9 both I believe are related to the DISA valves. On doing some more investigation the car is displaying some of the symptoms faulty DISA valves as well:

Odd plastic flapping sound at idle.

Inconssistent low to mid power delivery.

Rougher than I’d expect idle (though the smoothness test was within allowed parameters).

 

Now the fun part, it seems each valve is <£200 and there are two of them but I’ve discovered that you can get repair kits for them at ~£55 per valve but these only fix wear in the flap/mechanism and not failed electronics. Another option is eBay special valves at ~£90 each. Does anyone have experience of any of these options or can off other suggestions?

 

I’m planning to take the larger of the two out for inspection at the weekend  as it doesn’t require the inlet manifold to be removed but based on the internet trawl I am nearly sure both need attention.

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Took a bit of a gamble and ordered the large DISA value from the local dealers as it was the easier to replace. Worth pointing out that The only diagnosis I carried out was to look up the error codes.  No sooner had I ordered it than I started to think I should have pulled the valve out to check that it was actually faulty (>£200 of a part that wasn’t needed would have been tough to swallow).

It arrived this morning so fitted it this afternoon. Based on internet searches a good valve should come out in the open position and have no movement by hand, which is exactly the way my old one came out :-( .

Decided to test the valve before property kicking myself. Hooked up the cable and fired up the laptop. Told the valve to close, only closed half way. Told it to open, just about opened fully. Told it to close again and this time it closed a bit further. Left it in that position and tried moving by hand. Lots of free play. Few, not wasted money after all.

New valve fitted and all codes cleared. Going to monitor it before taking another gamble and ordering the small valve. I’m in no rest to change it as I’m not looking forward to taking off the inlet manifold.

 

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Test don't guess and don't fire the parts cannon at your car. My car really wants a new thermostat, but not enough to throw the money light on. It's threatening to, but by opening earlier, the thermostat might actually be protecting my engine. You can spunk a fortune on these cars chasing down error codes. 

 

 

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@Deviant agree completely. I got lucky this time as the valve was worn out. Some of the green seal was starting to let go as well which would only have headed one direction if it had broke off so was lucky in more than one way. The car was displaying other symptoms such as inconsistent low/mid power delivery and a very odd flapping/resonance sound at idle that would come and go.

I’ll not be surprised if the other DISA is on the way out as well but will be checking that one first before ordering the part.

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I did the same as you the other day and had several meaningless codes that I completely ignored. The ones to keep a close eye on are pending codes and the ones that throw the MIL on. Gearbox was codeless after a spill and fill with 4 litres of Meyle ATF back in December. B)

Edited by Deviant

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Had a few other codes that seemed to be linked to my nearly completely draining the battery running too many coolant bleed cycles without a charger connected or the faulty dipped bulb that got replaced. Thankfully having a manual gearbox seems to remove some of the potential codes.

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Haven’t had it a run yet but really hoping that the inconsistency is cured as in the same journey it could go from struggling to match an entry level Corsa in accelerating away from a round about to bring on the traction coming off the next roundabout (damp road). The only constant power delivery is above 4.5k which is very addictive and license threatening.

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I got myself a Sprint Booster because I wasn't happy with the acceleration, there was always a hesitation of up to a second before full beanz was applied. 

It doesn't give you more power,  but opens the throttle plate faster.  Full beanz are applied immediately.  I rarely turn it off. B)

 

 

 

 

 

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Had a short drive last night and there is a noticeable difference in low down power and the engine now feels how I would expect a 3L to pull. I still think there’s a slight weakness between 3k and the 4.5k kick so will be pulling the other valve out at some point in the future to check it (need to let the bank balance recover first).

@Deviant I had noticed a slight disconnect between the throttle and the response from the engine but put it down to the nature of the car. In saying the it’s positively instant compared to the throttle response on the 2 series that it is replacing (i know, the shame of admitting to driving a 2 series). The sprint booster looks interesting, might have to add it to the to do/get list.

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The saga continues. Hooked up the laptop to check for codes and DISA valve 2 has logged a few errors so looks like it needs replacing as well. I’ve been looking on AUTODOC and they are doing vaico branded valves for a about £100 less than the genuine bmw one. Anyone used AUTODOC recently? Are the dependable? Likewise, anyone any experience of vaico parts?

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Yet another update on this. Thanks to a bout of man flu it’s taken me a bit longer to replace the smaller DISA valve. Took a gamble with a vaico one from AUTODOC.

 

On removing the old one I thought it worth giving it a test as the flap looked and felt in good condition. It wasn’t. The motor had gone so the flap didn’t move from the open position.

 

I decided to reset all adaptations on the dme before taking for a test drive. The engine pulls a lot smoother throughout the rev range with no massive jumps in power delivery so looks like it’s helped. Getting the odd misfire though which I’m putting down to the dme relearning the engine characteristics.

 

While taking the inlet manifold off was a bit of a faff I was happy to find spotless inlet valves, not bad for an engine with almost 140k on it. Only time will tell if the cheaper value was a false economy.

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2 hours ago, RandomName said:

Yet another update on this. Thanks to a bout of man flu it’s taken me a bit longer to replace the smaller DISA valve. Took a gamble with a vaico one from AUTODOC.

 

On removing the old one I thought it worth giving it a test as the flap looked and felt in good condition. It wasn’t. The motor had gone so the flap didn’t move from the open position.

 

I decided to reset all adaptations on the dme before taking for a test drive. The engine pulls a lot smoother throughout the rev range with no massive jumps in power delivery so looks like it’s helped. Getting the odd misfire though which I’m putting down to the dme relearning the engine characteristics.

 

While taking the inlet manifold off was a bit of a faff I was happy to find spotless inlet valves, not bad for an engine with almost 140k on it. Only time will tell if the cheaper value was a false economy.

4

 

 

If something is an absolute twat to get to, go OEM.  If it is reasonably accessible, by all means, consider other brands. I'd still go OEM quality though, Meyle/Mahle/Lemforder etc... 

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15 minutes ago, Deviant said:

 

 

If something is an absolute twat to get to, go OEM.  If it is reasonably accessible, by all means, consider other brands. I'd still go OEM quality though, Meyle/Mahle/Lemforder etc... 

 

The best part is that I went genuine bmw for the one that’s easy to access. Just got frustrated paying >£200 for every part I’ve bought for the car. If it lasts a year I’ll be happy enough.

 

Got a list of jobs a mile long still to do:

rocker cover gasket

engine and gearbox mounts

overhaul gear linkage

tailgate window switch

android head unit

refinish headlight lenses 

replace fog lights and repeaters on wings

 

Could say I’ll be busy for a while....

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It's difficult when you have a list that needs doing. My BMW needs a new stat, wheels refurbed, new rear discs/pads/shoes. I purchased a cheap beater car for the daily commute to take the wear and tear off my E60. That needs lots of parts to make it respectable and road legal. Thank god it's cheap. 

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