Jump to content
euclid

Battery replacement needs coding?

Recommended Posts

This issue has been much discussed, but I'm still not sure whether upon battery replacement, coding is needed. If lets say a temporary 12V supply is fitted under the hood, so that during the replacement there is no power interruption, would everything work without coding necessary?

Does anyone know what Ah rating is used on the 520d (E60 2009)? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still needs coding, I pointed this out to a guy on Tuesday as his car only charged to 22% and wouldn't start with the IBS still connected, the car decides on the capacity of the battery as it ages limiting the max charge to prevent killing it faster. Replace it and it has no idea that you have swapped it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly as above. Unless the new battery is registered/coded and your IBS is functioning correctly, you risk experiencing power issues. My car had a new battery fitted by the previous owner before me buying it, it was dead within less than a year because it wasn't registered and the IBS had failed.

Edited by edd_jedi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, edd_jedi said:

Exactly as above. Unless the new battery is coded and your IBS is functioning correctly, you risk experiencing power issues. My car had a new battery fitted by the previous owner before me buying it, it was dead within less than a year because it wasn't coded and the IBS had failed.

 

Just had similar with my 730D; it had a brand new battery, cost the previous owner £250 and apparently it was coded in... Erm, wrong! Died on me a few times last November, so took it to BMW and they fitted their relevant AGM battery and coded it in for me for £300, alongside a full systems check which they gave a full clean bill of health.

 

IMO; do it right and properly first time around or wait to have to do it again and pay twice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks both. May I ask if there is a link in this forum for the battery coding specifics? If I can't do it, I might as well have it replaced at BMW dealer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, euclid said:

Thanks both. May I ask if there is a link in this forum for the battery coding specifics? If I can't do it, I might as well have it replaced at BMW dealer.

 

Check Carly for BMW info online and see if it'll code your E60 battery; it's available on both Android and iOS, but you need to buy their relevant dongle/reader too. Works out around £100 all in, but it's a great piece of software to have for codes and fault finding too

 

However, it wouldn't work on my 2006 730D; so not sure if this is the same for the E60s too as they're the same era

 

Personally; I'd want BMW to do it as you get their warranty and their diagnostics check too (and a few valet and wash/polish) ;)  Well, I did at BMW Bowker in Preston :P 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Deviant said:

Carly registered my battery B)

 

 

Thats good to know for future reference for others... No idea why the E65 isn’t catered for, fairly annoying TBH as it’d only have cost me £130 for the relevant Yuasa battery from Halfrauds 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, d_a_n1979 said:

 

 

Thats good to know for future reference for others... No idea why the E65 isn’t catered for, fairly annoying TBH as it’d only have cost me £130 for the relevant Yuasa battery from Halfrauds 

 

It was an addon option for a tenner or something. Happily I purchased all the options before they went subscription based. 

 

I just tried the E65 and it says the battery system is completely different from the others

Edited by Deviant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I recall a member (or moderator) of the forum would sell INPA software and cables to connect to the OBD. Does anyone remember who that is? I'd like to keep my options open in case the battery dies on me on a cold morning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, euclid said:

If I recall a member (or moderator) of the forum would sell INPA software and cables to connect to the OBD. Does anyone remember who that is? I'd like to keep my options open in case the battery dies on me on a cold morning.

Never pay for it.

 

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads

 

Download standard tools and INPA is there, personally I use ISTA+ (Rheingold on that link)

Edited by GoNz0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

Never pay for it.

 

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/downloads

 

Download standard tools and INPA is there, personally I use ISTA+ (Rheingold on that link)

Excellent great! Downloading..... These are for windows I guess? Then I will still need an interface (cable OBT to USB)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, euclid said:

Excellent great! Downloading..... These are for windows I guess? Then I will still need an interface (cable OBT to USB)?

Yes you need a dcan cable, cableshack who sell on the forum can help.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, pidgeonpost said:

Mine too. Not the cheapest but very handy. 

 

 

They were taking the piss after the price of the app and the Bluetooth adaptor. But savings were made by buying and fitting the battery yourself and not having your pants pulled down by the main stealers and now I can do everything and not have to pay them any more money. 

Edited by Deviant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I have just had an adventure with a similar issue, I got the restraint and airbag warning out of the blue. I checked battery and Alternator but my kit was not sophisticated enough to confirm which was at fault. As the car (E60 545i 2004) is getting on I decided to go with the battery first. I checked out multiple forums and the advice was mixed around coding, especially if you were installing exactly the same battery. I went ahead without coding but the problem remained. I had the alternator checked by an indie who advised it was on its way out. I had it replaced, drove home and 2 hours later the warning came back. I took the car back the following day and looked at battery charge, it was fluctuating wildly so the guys took it to check in case the new alternator was playing up. I did mention coding as I did when it first went in. The guys did all of the relevant checks and as a last resort they coded the battery. Surprise Surprise the problem disappeared and she is running really well. The moral of the story, always go for coding, or better still be advised by the lads on here. My advice came from the states mainly      

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, edd_jedi said:

That's the problem with the internet, there is just as much bad advice as good. When my IBS failed I was told by several people it was a waste of time fixing it, they had no idea what they were talking about.

Unfortunately bad info does not only come from the interner, but from the "experts" as well. I asked a couple of battery suppliers and indies, all gave me the same answer, that no coding is needed when the battery is of the same type! It seems that correct coding is needed after all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×