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oldtechnoman

battery charger/trickle charger what to buy

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Went to start my slk280 yesterday after not using for about 3 weeks, just got one turn of starter,car is parked on driveway in front of house,had spare battery that i thought i could use jump leads on but found that was low as well, went to use Ring RCB320 on spare battery and charger has wrecked battery,

Do i buy a replacement charger or buy one of these trickle chargers.

borrowed my sons CTEK 0.8 last night and ran extension  cable to side of car with ctek under car bonnet, car started first go this morning.

Tim

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Lots of people from several forums I use all seem to go for the CTEK brand.

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CTEK MXS5.0 is very good. I've had one for a few years now and it still charges and conditions perfectly, however I took some advice from another forum and tried a lidl special offer one last year which was a quarter of the price and it keeps one of my other cars charged perfectly.

 

Plenty of choice out there and both budget or high end will do the job.

 

C.

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16 minutes ago, cableguy said:

CTEK MXS5.0 is very good. I've had one for a few years now and it still charges and conditions perfectly, however I took some advice from another forum and tried a lidl special offer one last year which was a quarter of the price and it keeps one of my other cars charged perfectly.

 

Plenty of choice out there and both budget or high end will do the job.

 

C.

 

I have the lidl one too, that looks rather like the CTEK. There was nothing in the instructions that talked about battery conditioning so I haven't used it that way. Would be good to know, though.

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Another vote for the Ctek MXS5.0.

 

No issues using it to charge my F10.  As long as you connect upstream of the IBS, i.e. the chassis and not the neg terminal of the battery you will be fine.

 

DSCN3896.jpg

 

I believe if you buy a BMW charger it is a Ctek one in a much more expensive cardboard box.

 

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Thanks for the response.

Kwik-Fit came up with the following:

  • Product Ref: AGM019
  • 12 Volt Battery
  • CCA: 900
  • AH: 90
  • Case Dimensions: 354mm(L) x 175mm (W) x 190mm (H)
  • Height Including Node Terminals: 190mm

Have gone ahead with that, am also assuming that as BMW sell this charger it is likely to be compatible as the specs say not suitable for all AGM.

 

Cheers, Alan

 

 

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For more years than I care to remember I have been using my trusty old SIP Chargemaster with high and low charge plus a start function. This is however a heavy bit of kit and although the output charge automatically reduces as the battery charges I don't like to leave it connected for lengthy periods so I recently invested in one of the Lidl cheapies for €19.99 and  I must say that I have been very impressed with it. It can be left connected long term to keep a battery topped up and conditioned and it does have an AGM setting.

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Quick question, I have jut bought a CTEK MXS 5.0 to occasionally give my battery a full charge/recondition (I often don't drive my car for over a week.) Would a trickle charger be suitable to attach while doing coding? While using NCS Expert to code in the past I have sometimes had the low battery warning afterwards due to having the ignition on for 30+ minutes (I do all my coding really slowly watching videos etc to make sure I don't cock it up!)

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The Ctek MXS 5.0 puts out 5 amps, clue is in the Ctek product name. You can get a Ctek charger that does 10 amps.

 

The Ctek MXS 5.0 charges the battery over a certain programme and the implication was that you shouldn't disconnect it or start the car until it has reached a certain point in its charging cycle/programme. 

 

For ignition on during coding I believe you need a supply that is good for 20 amps so it's probably not enough.

 

When mine was getting investigated by BMW during the towbar issues I was having, they explained they use a shore supply that has 20 amps output for their diagnostics checking procedures so as not to strain the car battery. 

 

I had a similar idea as yourself.

 

A second cheap car battery is probably best, you can then keep this healthy with your Ctek charger.

 

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1 hour ago, edd_jedi said:

Quick question, I have jut bought a CTEK MXS 5.0 to occasionally give my battery a full charge/recondition (I often don't drive my car for over a week.) Would a trickle charger be suitable to attach while doing coding? While using NCS Expert to code in the past I have sometimes had the low battery warning afterwards due to having the ignition on for 30+ minutes (I do all my coding really slowly watching videos etc to make sure I don't cock it up!)

Found out a some time ago that I can drain the battery just running a long diagnostic. So whenever possible, I will do  it with the engine running. Of course, you can't do that when coding so I checked out what you would need for coding. I read you need a supply of min 12.4v and max 14.4v and capable of providing 45amps. I was surprised to read that some cars draw about 20 amps with the ignition on so a 5 amp supply will not cut it. A bigger supply might be expensive but bricking the ECU is probably a risk to be avoided.

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41 minutes ago, stevecvo said:

I have never really understood why diagnostics took such a lot out of the battery. What draws the current?

 

It's probably not the coding itself, just the huge amount of gizmos in the car. When I do coding I turn off the automatic lights, interior lights, radio, and interior fans, but there is no way of turning off the iDrive screen, or navigation drive, and even with the fans off I can always hear something whirring around behind the dash. I understand modern cars are complicated, but IMO it's pretty poor that they've been designed to be so power hungry even when you try to turn everything off. That's why I went to such effort getting my IBS and battery sorted, without them functioning and coded/registered correctly the battery will barely last a week without going flat.

Edited by edd_jedi

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oldjonny Yes that's the one. The instructions are quite comprehensive and and need to be read yo understand  how the various options work. The price I quoted was in euros because I live in Portugal

 

edd_jedi  A fair point but the E39 which I have is a lot simpler and I can't think of much that is going to draw current unless it is somehow the diagnostic process itself

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On 2/26/2019 at 6:05 PM, stevecvo said:

I recently invested in one of the Lidl cheapies

 

Good call. Visited my local Lidl and found the last of those chargers in stock waiting for me. Thanks for the tip :D

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Sorry another question about the CTEK charger, I've just noticed you can buy a cigarette lighter charging adapter. Will that work through the socket in the boot of my E61? It would be more convenient to charge it from the rear of the car.

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50 minutes ago, edd_jedi said:

Sorry another question about the CTEK charger, I've just noticed you can buy a cigarette lighter charging adapter. Will that work through the socket in the boot of my E61? It would be more convenient to charge it from the rear of the car.

 

No as the socket in your boot is only live (connected to the battery) when the car is awake.  The system will shut down/goes to sleep after 5-10-15-20 mins and cut off the connection between socket and battery.

 

Ideally you want the Ctek connections permanently wired to the car.  The positive can be to the battery terminal direct but the negative connection must be on to the body i.e. upstream of the IBS.  Hard wire the eyelet connection that came with the charger to your car for best result.

 

If you have a towbar you could wire in a permanent connection point via the towbar wiring.

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1 hour ago, bmwf113.0d said:

I've just wired up the ctek direct to the battery terminals on the kids picanto. Easiest option imo. 

 

Sadly not that straight forward on the BMW, as the battery needs to be charged via the IBS.  That way the car learns its being charged.  BMW will tell you to charge via the under bonnet posts.  The negative post is straight on to the body work thus the IBS is kept in the loop so to speak when its being charged.

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